davew wrote:

BT Hub/Weatherstation/etc should not be a problem if the RF Receiver is still disconnected...

Not sure what that 'low level noise behind the dash' is though.... odd !

Might be an idea to start pulling fuses when the noise is there to see if it can be narrowed down as to what it might be without having to pull too much of the dash out, particually if the original source of the noise isn't very clear.

Which engine do you have? Gems, Thor or Diesel?

3/8" UNC sounds more like a description of the thread than the head of the bolt.

leolito wrote:

Yeah, I would be curious about that one as well ... here in the southern latitudes the tendency is to quarantine you regardless, unfortunately.

You have a functioning government, It should be fairly clear ours is somewhat lacking in the functionality dept at the present time!.

Cheers all. I suspect the comments I'd seen elsewhere might have been bags that rarely got fully extended failed in some way, as said the shocks should limit travel anyway there.

It may be complicated by the side steps installed on mine, but we seemed to be struggling to find suitable points on the chassis that weren't blocked in some way or other.

I guess Oily bits is the closest section for this, Has anyone here had a P38 (or even better a Disco 2) on a 2 post lift, and if so where did you put the pads to lift it on please?. Having checked Rave, it says use a 4 post lift though doesn't explain why for both models. Having tried it, it seems there is a lack of suitable lifting points may be part of the reason, plus causing potential problems with the EAS system if the suspension is completely unsupported seems to be another suggested issue looking elsewhere.

It is possible to lift using the factory jacking points (the radius arms) but far from ideal and certainly not a reassuring sight either. The only other photos of locations I've seen appear to be from a NAS spec vehicle (which seems to be slightly different to what I'm seeing) and looks like its being done on the ends of the sills as far as we can tell?

If your diagnostics can show the fuel trim that might give a clue towards the maf being suspect. Same experience here, the genuine Bosch MAF on Thor is the way to go if its suspect. If the trims look sensible (not stuck at the max 25% for example) I'd wonder if an injector (or 2) is being held open and causing over fueling somehow. Could be down to damage on the loom, more likely if the car has ever been on LPG as the wires would have been cut and possibly not rejoined as well as you'd like, though on 20 year old wiring its very possible there is other damage. Bit of a pain to get to on the Thor engine though as you need the upper manifold off.

Would be suprised if that happened with the described situation though, and wouldn't really account for the pop either.

A set of these might be an idea if you otherwise risk being on the bump stops, would also allow you to isolate areas to locate leaks etc.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-PUMP-INFLATION-BYPASS-VALVES-ANR3731-6mm/263100312029

At least you can then put them on if it happens again if you keep them in the car just in case.

Your best bet would be to phone some of the smaller suppliers that are about and ask what they can offer. I think those that have looked into it have said you need a concrete slab to sit it on, and a suitable mains supply to it.

You could ask flogas if they were willing to provide you with one of their keysite setups if you have somewhere suitable that you don't mind visitors to. Your in the right area at least for them.

The reset should reset them to the factory defaults, which it should then learn from over a short period of driving. You don't need to enter them. Its worth a shot if you have access to do it, but should fix itself at the same time.

Did you remove and check the plug on cylinder 8 to see what sort of state its in? Sooty or otherwise may tell us whats going on since it seems to mainly mention that cylinder. May also be worth checking the one its paired with (5) just in case something there is causing issues on the other side of the same coil (reduced gap or similar?).

Have you checked the height settings given you reverted it back to EAS? Others on here have calibrated using blocks of material cut to the 3 required lenghts. Morat being one of them, and fairly sure he did a write up of doing it as well.

General tyres are made by Continental - I've got the same on the Disco and find they are fine (also 18" wheels here). Certainly handled well after doing the balljoints. Before doing them it became a bit unpredictable if you hit a pothole which way it might decide to go.

Might be an idea to pull the spark plug from cylinder 8 to see if its giving any clues as to whats wrong there (compare to others and see if any deposits on it look different). If you have the tools to do it, a compression test would also be an idea, though if its suddenly started happening I wouldn't expect that to show anything.

The one thing you haven't mentioned changing are the HT leads - are these new and missed from the list, or are you still using the same leads?

I meant on the old one your removing that I had the bit fall out from just in case that wasn't clear.

Simple thing to watch out for when you do get to the rocker gasket, mine had gone so distorted that the metal inserts dropped out of the rubber (theres one round each bolt). You obviously don't want them to drop anywhere in the engine but if your aware they are there, at least you will know to watch out for them. One of mine dropped down somewhere in the valley and was retrieved with a magnet pickup tool.

Gilbertd wrote:

What year is it? On a GEMS the rocker cover gaskets are pretty straightforward (having done mine a few weeks ago) but did a Thor last week and the solid coolant pipes and alternator make getting the RH one off difficult and they both have to come off.

It does say Thor on the bottom line of the first post, and your mentioning this reminded me of the same. No A/C compressor on mine, but the alternator did have to come off to get the manifold off. Left the solid coolant pipes in place on the manifold on mine, just disconnected the rubber pipes. Having seen the state of the coolant pipes there, I would have replaced them if I'd known they were that bad there and then. Might be slightly different on a p38 as I'm not sure the setup is identical for plumbing.

If your going to go that far I'd at least have a look before you order bits to see if the seals are leaking, as your already most of the way there then. And label the lpg pipes so you know what your putting back to each injector before you pull them off, as if they are in the lower manifold you can't tell which one is which after the upper one is back on (assuming your injectors are ontop of the upper manifold and the pipes go through the webbing to the lower one, which is likely if Simon has fitted it as thats the way he recommened to me).

We managed to get in there and get most of it back together in the same day. If your only running petrol (no LPG) it might go back together in the same day. Valley gasket needs to come out to replace them (the bolts go through the gasket at either end as well as the seal, seal sits under the gasket).

Seals are number 7 on the link below
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/90127/90555/7181

Photo of the rear one on mine, you can see the obvious leakage

The valley gasket can also be the source of leaks (well really the rubber seals either end can be). If your going as far as rocker cover gaskets trying to remove a leak its worth a look at the front and rear end of the valley gaskets as your most of the way in there by the time the upper manifold is off anyway. You can see both ends of the valley gasket from above - look for the metal plates, the rubber seal sits under that. (Disco 2 with Thor here, but its the same engine). Rear one is likely to be dripping around/onto the starter motor, I would guess the front one would end up dripping down onto the oil filter area, possibly onto the same area around the pressure switch.

Mine had gone completely brittle on investigating and the rear one was leaking badly. Thats now only stopped part of it, looks like the rear crankshaft oil seal is also leaking, as having stopped the leak from above, it can be seen dripping from the bellhousing now.

Had the leak from the oil pressure switch a few years back, though that was down to someone prior to me not doing it up properly as it wasn't even finger tight when investigated.

Where is the worst of the oil appearing?

Rocker cover bolts as said above, I ended up buying these
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-11-piece-3%2F8in-drive-deep-socket-rail-611610.html

But you might be able to just find an 8mm socket cheaper. I needed them there and then as we already had the upper manifold off.

Its possible (though not what I'd call ideal) to do them with the upper section in place on the Disco. Combination of knuckle damage and having to unclip and work around the wiring harness makes it awkard, though I can't see the price on the above being worth it. Also looks like the leads they include are a different length to the originals, so the originals might not fit (fairly sure they wouldn't fit the 2nd bank at least)

That disco looked like it had been fed a mixture if everything they could find. Definitely k seal in there as you could see the gritty bits but other stuff also possible.

Not sure which of the products the BMW got but same gritty looks to it.