We found it most useful when feeding the giraffe at the safari park.

Look at the thread below this ' headliner sunroof panel '

There's a post of mine on here somewhere explaining how the foam seal between the cassette and roof can let in lots of water. Can be seen better when the roof liner is out and replacement means removing the cassette.
If you open the sunroof and look from outside at the front left and right hand corners you can just see this foam seal. Poke it gently with a pencil or something similar and you'll probably find it's not attached and weathered and worn.

That's correct. Later diesels have the oil cooler in front of the front left hand side wheel. The brass fittings are left unconnected and don't require blanking off either.

I'd make my own out of thin CLOSED CELL foam sheet. Not shouting but any other foam will hold water or even let it pass through.

5 mtrs of 8mmx20mm neoprene foam.
£12 delivered.
It was pre glued on the wide edge which is not required as it needs glueing on the narrow edge to the cassette frame. I used a pot of contact adhesive and a brush to apply it. Using 6 x 6" lengths of m6 studding screwed into the roof cassette mounting holes made it so much easier to refit the heavy cassette and pull it up even. The foam has to compress a lot at the rear half and barely at all at the front, I did have some concerns as the foam is quite stiff but it worked a treat.

I will add a few more tips sort of related.
Pay close attention to the foam seal that goes around the outer edge of the steel frame, especially around the front end and corners. If this has come unstuck, usually around the front corners, or feels anyway floppy(compare it to the non uv exposed rear) you should replace it. Mine didn't leak at all until I removed the cassette, retrimmed the shade and refitted the cassette whilst I got on with the removed headliner recover so I could still use the car. Rain came in! It confused me for a bit until I realised that the foam seal, which I thought was just to stop rattling between the roof and cassette, is actually also a water shedder. The seal around the glass isn't perfect and any rain getting past it drips into the cassette channel and out the drain tubes. If the foam seal is iffy then some water misses the channel and ends up inside the car. My foam seal was quite bad, I removed the cassette again and renewed the foam with some closed cell stuff 8mm x 20mm off ebay iirc, glued on its 8mm edge. I then used 6 off m6 studs screwed into the roof where the bolts normally go and some m6 wing nuts to evenly pull the cassette up and then replaced the studs with the bolts one at a time. The studs made it so much easier to fit the cassette and I think it was the wrestling the first time I refitted it, without the studs, that finished off the original foam seal.
If you do decide to renew the foam seal don't go off my measurements above until I can find the purchase and confirm.
Everything is bone dry now.

Forgot about this post. To update, to fit a taller earlier condensor to a later 38 diesel involves a new genuine (aftermarket not available) compressor to condenser hose and ,of course, a new condensor.
Trim a couple of alloy brackets off and in it goes. Grill slam panel and front bumper needs removing to fit the condenser, turbo to intercooler pipework needs removing to access the compressor pipe. All gassed up and working great.

The diesel one is quite hard to see the clutch face particularly so. I've thought a blob of paint on the face would be a way here to see it engaging/disengaging.?

I'm pretty sure it'll disengage/engage as the temp reaches set point and drops.
Mine does the same, more of a cough only when ac is on, never really timed it but at a guess every 20 secs or so. No issues when driving just idling. I've only had the bus 11 months and working ac for about a month.

I know of a bearing race to enlign front drive shafts and the hub, are you thinking of that?.
If not, I would like to know too, for the future.

Loose spark plug perhaps?
Head gasket going perhaps?
I'm a diesel guy but a head gasket going on my Defender made a ticking noise as did an injector seal washer and a leaky exhaust manifold gasket.

Hard wired my dash cam in so I haven't got a cable spoiling the look of the dash. It meant junking the fag plug and cable for a 12vdc to 5vdc with a micro usb adaptor thing off ebay.
£7 iirc.

It's what I did. You can hear the air coming out clearly.

Thinking some more...(I've never owned a car with any kind of sunroof until the 38) maybe the roof isn't enligned properly so the rubber glass seal isn't quite right. That makes more sense. I'll have a look later when it stops chucking it down. I've found THAT seal online at a price of course...

I've removed the headliner and sunroof to recover both but reinstated the sunroof cartridge only so I can still drive about. I don't think it leaked before, nothing obvious anyway but there was some staining. Anywhoo, we've had persistent rain overnight after a long dry spell and the wife was non to pleased to have water dripping on her lap at 5.30 this morning lol!
Back home after dropping her off and using a torch I can see water between the foam seal and the internal surface of the roof skin. The seal isn't sitting correctly in relation to the rest of it so I guess that's the issue.
Thinking about it further , im not sure water should actually get there unless there was a real heavy downpour that the drains couldn't cope with? All drains were cleared, they weren't blocked anyway tbf and the drain pipes reattached tightly to the cassette stubs, the waters getting in above the stub , nearside front, anyway , passed this foam seal. I assumed this seal was just for draught proofing but now I don't it must be a secondary water seal.
Bit of a bummer because it's heavy and it's got to come out again. Anybody know the part number for this foam seal ? I can't find it listed.
Tia.

I'm pretty sure they are the same just the oil cooler connections at the bottom aren't used as the cooler is located behind the fog light grill on the later models. My plastic rad which was replaced before my ownership has the two unused ports in it. 2001 dhse auto too.

Yes unplugged. My friend was reading the tests off his phone whilst I probed. He did the various movements to the latch mechanism too, I just held the probe on whatever terminal he said, dmm on beeb too and checked earth continuancy between each test. It'll be his fault somewhere along the line lol!

You were spot on Marty! Both those wires were fractured internally inside the sill cover, repaired them and everything works again, mirror, window, cdl and interior light.
You've made my mate very happy!
He's signed up to this site now too.
Only thing that's confused me is the latch test was a fail on some of the tests but it all works good? Maybe we tested wrong or something....

That's really interesting Richard, thanks for that!