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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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As always Clive, comprehensive and factual. Many thanks.

Thanks both.

Yes, Rob there might be a bit left in the booster and pump which are still original but everything else is new.

Interesting article Dave, I'll probably stick with conventional.

Has anyone used silicone brake fluid or have any views on its benefits/disadvantages?

Ah, OK, thanks Richard

As the little springs flew out while I was removing the sun blind I didn't see which way up they went. Spring ends down seems logical. Any other views?

I have to say I didn't have a problem with Martim, I asked for samples which they sent the next day and I could then match it to the trim.
Mine was silver grey which as StrangeRover says doesn't look very appealing but it does at least match.

They also advised how to attack the glueing process by laying the cloth on and folding it back halfway.

The parts manual says 3/8" UNC. Mine has socket head bolts which a TX 50 just about fits as a bodge or a 7.8mm allen key for a good fit.

There's still time!

I'm still fiddling around with the blind but thanks for the tip on the grab handles. I may be getting a bit too ocd!

I'm just doing the sun blind and only found very thin fabric left on the old covering where the sliders go so was going to follow that and rub the foam off and just very lightly glue the fabric.

I did get a couple of tiny wrinkles by the grab handles and did manage to ease the fabric off without damaging the foam so will have a second shot at chasing them out.

Good point. Thanks Richard.

Here's how the amateur side is doing so far.

There is plenty of material supplied by Martrim and a quick phone call provided useful advice to do it in two sections and lay the glue on the fabric first in one direction and then at 90 degrees on the board.

With two people, one on either side seemed to be the easiest way and you do need quite strong fingers to press the fabric into the grab handle recesses. Otherwise straight forward. Some plastic underneath stops the glue getting everywhere.

Still have to do the blind and trim round the edges so will post more when that's done.

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As always Richard is exactly right!!

I'd been trying to line all the bolts up first before torquing them down. Putting one in the centre and with a bit of leverage the opposite one will ease in and then torque it down a bit and the rest follow.

Thank you Richard you've saved me from pulling the heads and an acre of expense.

If you have time to call in on Sunday do feel free to see what I'm up to on the CVC just the other side of Dorking from Phazed.

So having put the problem on one side for a while and talking to a few people the probable cause for my problems seems to be that the heads have been skimmed beyond the range of adjustment for the manifold gasket and manifold bolts.
It does seem to be a relatively common problem amongst the high performance engine boys.

The pictures show how the gasket overlaps the ports. This is with the end clamps tightened up just to pull the gasket down to roughly where it should be.

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So the options I've seen on various sites are:-

  1. Drill out the manifold bolt holes to allow the bolts to line up and trim or cut the gasket in half and rejoin it.

  2. Get the faces of the manifold skimmed to drop it lower.

  3. Get thicker head gaskets.

The problem with 1 is that it seems a bit of a bodge.
The problem with 2 is that the coolant pipe on the manifold is already tight to the gasket.
The problem with 3 is I haven't seen such a thing anywhere.

Very interested to hear everyone's views.

I have checked them out on other vehicles but not found a profile that I needed.

I've pm'd you about the headlining but as it's windy today probably won't go ahead. Welcome to call anyway.

Brilliant. Thanks Richard.

As I don't have anything connected I wanted to get the right rear window down and was going to put 12v into the Grey or Grey Orange wires to see if they worked direct on the motor. Am I heading in the right direction? I don't want to blow the bloody doors off.

Brilliant. Congratulations Richard. An epic journey indeed.

If it is like the front one. I just lowered the window and peeled it out. Haven't tackled the rear one yet.

The replacements have arrived and are in good shape if a little grubby and £25 for two and £40 for the rear - rarer presumably.

From clearmyshed on ebay.