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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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No, it will move slowly when detached but the flap doesn't move on self test. There is a bit of a hum but no sign of movement of the quadrant.

So on that basis do you think it is because the flap is too stiff for the motor to move it or is the motor too weak?

i've forced the distribution motor in both directions and forcing to zero shows Out 0%. In 85% and forcing to 100% shows Out 100% and in 85%. but the flap doesn't move.

When I return it to the ecu control the original faults show and if I clear those it comes up with left blend motor short circuit to positive but the others are cleared.

With the distribution motor off it does move slowly on initial turn on.

Thanks Richard. The distribution motor works when attached as you can see the quadrant moving.

Perhaps I could join in on this post too.
Having got the Nanocom connected and working - thank you Richard, I have a fine selection of error messages but concentrating on the HEVAC I've got 40. A/C request line fault - current, and 55 Distribution door motor stalled -current.
So following other posts I've removed the motor and duct and sprayed liberally with silicone spray and moved the flaps manually and the only issue is a slight overcentre feeling on the last couple of teeth on the quafrant. Even after a good waggle too and fro the 55 message is still coming on.
Any suggestions on the next step?

Of course. Thanks Richard. Needed to crane my neck round further!

I was looking for the OBD connector and found this taped to the lower frame of the drivers side kick panel alongside a relay. It looks as if it was factory tape so guess the earliest ones don't have obd2 and this was just lashed up pre production.

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Is there a particular adapter to connect to a Nanocom?

Thanks as always.

Many thanks Richard. I'm very grateful - as always.

Hit the button too quickly!

This is the basic radio cassette player but needed to check whether the brass screwed rod fits in the bracket at the back. I've seen in the parts catalogue a rubber bung XQJ10002L but not sure if that's the righht part.

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Leo, the screen was replaced under windscreen cover but I think Richard is right, about £500 for a Pilkington one. National windscreens did mine and the lads were very good. Got a new top trim as part of the deal.

Having just had my front screen replaced I would suggest that you insist on a Pilkington replacement as they make the LR ones. The earth wires on the first pattern part one that the fitters bought just fell off as they got it out of the van!

Harv, sir, you are a man of fine judgement!

Gave it a run with pipe disconnected and finally got a bit of flow and reconnected the pipe and after a minute the light went out.

You are my hero and I owe you a beer or better still a case of beer.

Thank you for saving me from a pointless strip down.

So, with the pump to oil cooler pipe disconnected and a thumb over the outlet whilst it is cranked I could feel no pressure and no oil came out.

Would that indicate that there is a problem with the woodruff key driving the pump. It was a new one. I can't think what else it could be.

Popped off the pump to oil cooler pipe and no oil there so not looking good.

Thank you all for the reassurance. I have taken the plugs out so it does spin over nicely. I'll give it another go this morning and try a gauge if that doesn't work. 1/8 npt i think?

Thank you Harv and Richard. I'll give it another go tomorrow. Is it possible to reassemble the pump gears incorectly? It's the only thing I can think of that I might have done wrong but I did check pretty carefully.

Just to clarify I did fill the pump with vaseline and filled the filter with oil as well.

The time came to turn the engine over for the first time. No nasty noises but after about 15 seconds cranking the oil light is still on. Any recommendations for a suitable gauge to check the actual pressure?
Many thanks.

On the sunroof motor problem, when I was doing mine the motor would run but not activate the roof and after a bit of toing and froing with a screwdriver in the manual drive it dropped into place. So worth fiddling with. It made a positive noise when it droppped in.
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I tried reinstalling the original casette but so many pieces were broken I gave up and bought a secondhand one for £80 which works fine - so far.

I have a collection of small plastic parts from the old one including the little springs that hold the blind in if anyone needs them.