Electrickery, in fact it is mechanical.
When I pull the key out the steeringlock does not kick in, only after a tap on the barrel.
The barrel itself works fine but when I pull the key and open the door I get the 'key-in' message (beep) and a tap on the barrel lets the pin engage.
Before I take it all apart and do something stupid I like to know what the barrel does inside and what the best strategy is. Never done this before.
What I did dare is taking the shrouds off and replaced the blown barrel-bulb.
Tony.
Orangebean wrote:
Fingers crossed that your suction pipe stays intact.
Shame. My iimagination is endless...
It's not crazy money Mark, €21.- (Island4x4 OEM) to €31.- (LRdirect LR), but I'm on a time schedule as I have a reservation for the 4-post ramp in a garage nearby. No time for UK orders, just my local LR dealer which takes 24 hrs. (nothing P38 on the shelf).
At the same time I want to calibrate EAS once on that ramp, I have a feeling it is leaning abit and figuers left and right differ some 8 bits.
As for flushing, that is a job for the specialists, a transmission-shop over here charges 12 litres ATF extra for flushing (of his expensive brand of course). First I will see how the old stuff comes out, when it is real dark I fill it with the drained amount, drive it, drain again and refresh the screen etc.
Tony.
As the title says I want to treat the box with an oilchange. I've got a new set with screen, O rings, alloy rings and rubberseal.
What worries me, I've read some posts about the suctionpipe breaking when swapping to the new screen, due to becoming brittle over time.
Is this the case so I better order a new suctionpipe beforehand?
Tony.
I admit, I'm the blame and get paid for it. How should I (being a pensioner) be able to maintain a P38?
Mine are AEB:
I'll stick to my TomTom, "lifetime" updates and fits in my pocket for when I hire a car in the south of Spain.
I'm talking nonsense about the 90º angle, it's a 180º difference with yours.
Two pics I already linked to, one as it is now:
and the aim:
A nice wiring job Marty, as expected. Always better to have some room for cables, I'm very curious how the injectors will handle the heat.
If I go that route I might have some advantage that my injectors have the plug at a 90º angle, until then I have to accept the 28 cm long gastubes.
Is that a special sort of isolating you use on top of the injectors, I think for fixation of the wires?
The only time my engine ever came over 3000 rpm (after rebuild) was at the LPG guy adjusting the stuff. I started thinking 'do you really need to do this' when I heard a rattle from up front: when revving the fanblades pulled so much backwards they hit the top-coolantpipe (the elbow) coming out of the manifold. That fan was wiggling because not fully done on the pumpshaft so I had to be greatfull to the man- in fact.
Thank you Richard. I've got a few different .pdf's that sometimes complement eachother (like the ETM files).
It's good to have it all in one file.
http://www.landroverresource.com/
I use sometimes the Disco II manual as it is more specific when it comes to machining measurements.
http://www.landroverresource.com/40_46_V8_overhaul.pdf
You are doing a thorough job Marty, first having it run perfectly on petrol as that is your referencepoint for adjusting it on gas.
Running it up to 4000 rpm is only for testpurposes isn't it? (the old lady has a new heart but still an old lady ha ha)
As for injector location, I knew there should be little space under the banana's for injectors and wiring but it is worth a try, the short pipes to the nozzles have proven to be best. Splitting the injectors/electrical connectors is a job you do best, let us know the result. In this way you have a custom build one injector per cylinder set up.
Reminds me years ago I bought a 5-series BMW that had been submerged in water until the roof in it's own garage under the house, the price was obviously right so couldn't let go.
I asked the man what water it had been, it very well could be a sewer that had flushed back, in that case I wasn't interested. No it was pure rainwater he said.
Picked up the car and rented a barn from a farmer nearby, rented two heatcannons and stripped the entire car (it was the model with the electronic cassettes under the rear seat).
All interior out to the bare body, every connector loose, blowed dry with compressed air, carpets pressed like a sponge with a lawn roller.
It took me 3 weeks to get the car dry at a constant 20ºC in that barn.
The car drove lovely after that but never got rid of electrical gremlins.
You've had your share so far I think...
Orangebean wrote:
Shame I don't need new heads- this week anyway!
Humour is all that keeps us going!
At first sight it looks like these heads had a very different combustion per cylinder, for sure leaking gaskets or maybe a failing valleygasket too.
In the bigger circle, is that a trace of detonation? How is the pistonhead in that cylinder? The smaller circle, is that a damaged inletvalve?
The other bank has a more equal combustion so to see with brownish inletvalves.
I should give these heads a good service, skimmed for sure and the valves grinded, then a pressuretest.
I must admit, after I filled it all with black Sikaflex it took a couple of days to notice things are becomimg dry again, it's the time of the season. Plus the footwell carpet is still wet, it will take some time to dry. Or, as Mark states, water doesn't flow uphill.
Orangebean wrote:
Have a look at Tony's thread here for ideas.
Problem solved, it was the cracked seam, so that goes too if you don't have a sunroof.