I use Img safe, no complaints (test my pics).
img safe

I often use this to protect connectors in critical moisture/damp areas, I used it when I worked in yachting to protect cables that run through a bilge, it even resists salt water.
Just don't spill it on clothing, it won't go off.

Orangebean wrote:

That way the worn bit where you slide into drivers seat becomes the inside of passenger seat and can't be easily seen.

Must say the seat is not worn at the 'slide in' area, it's a German car but I think the PO was not the typical 'big belly Bavarian' type of guy.
But I see what you mean, my previous Classic needed a new driverseat, bought from the bay UK a second hand passenger seat, like new!

GeorgeB wrote:

Still drops to access height unbidden when switched off, but only in one particular car park and in one specific bay.
Don't think she likes parking there!

I think it is a bit off route to verify if we have the same experience there:)

So, resuming, first I print the ETM page that handles the heated seats, read carefully Marty's epistel and see what comes up in terms of functionality.
Then uprated thermostats, any partnumbers Morat? (Because I also have a bit of a OEM fetish while there can be better parts around)

Orangebean wrote:

Bonnet cable saga- did one final check before buttoning down grille etc and the new cable outer LHS popped out of the catch mech! Won't do it again though as now pinned in place.

Same with me. I think that can happen when shutting the bonnet and the innercable becomes loose for a moment.
One cm behind the plastic piece I drilled a hole in the slampanel and a tiewrap holds up the outercable so it will not fall out again (I hope).
Not a sunday solution but it works.
Success on the testride!

Yes I did, the connecters are bot shiny, no sign of rust. Took the connector apart, put the probe on it and the other one on the groundwire that sits in the middle of the screen. I'm not inclined in electrickery so it wondered me that it gave 0 on both halves of the screen while the driverside works. It's the passengerside that fails. I'm not going to make a drama out of it but while I was there I took a look.
For the same reason I want the seatheaters get back to work, I've seen a good writeup from Marty on the other site from the past.

thanks guys for the replies. Indeed it's a LHD but the construction is mirror mounted to RHD so driverside stays driverside.
Wat wonders me also is the part mounted to the shaft, the driverside arm (short one) is a bit bend compared to pass. side. Is this normal or has someone tried something in a vice, I don't think so because it is cast aluminium and should break if you try to bend it.

As for the leaking, I think it is the cover of the cabinfilter that leaks, I have taken it apart including the housing and could see someone has been busy with silicone sealer in the past. I sealed the cover and mountingplate of the housing all around (six M10 bolts) to rule everything out. And checked the wiring of the screenheater for continuety, it gets 12V but does not heat, ohm reading between feed and return is 0 ohms, I don't get it.
As for the missus her shoes, is there something to claim at LR?

Just a quick one, had my wiperarms off (to paint and to find a dripping leak on the missus's feet) they are different in length.
Where comes the short one and where comes the long one? (driver's side/passenger side, I am willing to translate offside/nearside.)
Tony.

no10chris wrote:

she certainly looks a bit worried

Wouldn't you, with a warrior like him in front of you carrying a sort of sledgehammer ready to take action...

Simon thank you for this lesson.

Your first pic was on screen the same moment, the last link took me 12 seconds. Or my pc was busy with something else, need a cleanup.

Gilbertd wrote:

OK, try this then

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww107/r63ra/queen-elizbeth-1_zpsrzejw5fz.jpg

12 seconds (got fiber)

In that you are very right Mark, sometimes my imagination brings me to solutions which not always are the safest.

I had a length of 19mm hose (Gates) and managed to get them over the matrix pipes (heated in boiling water and some soap).
Or pre-stretch it a bit with a 13mm socket (½" drive) which is outside dia 19mm and 22mm at the drive side.

My gas-temp sensor is inside the splitter to the two injectorbanks, but fails at the moment. I was advised to temporarily connect it together with the watertemp sensor, which works. Only it switches from petrol to lpg a bit later. Need a new sensor though.

It is not strange people always were (and still are) attracted to Citroëns of the '50s and '60s, they were way ahead and daring in design which had it's own charm. Starting with the legendary Traction Avant, 2CV, ID/DS, CX and XM.
The suspension hydraulics, the one button brakepedal, the one spoke steeringwheel. They were just not that 'home mechanic' friendly, ever renewed frontpads? You had to dismantle half the front end.
My brother still has a CX diesel (2,5?) in his backyard with the separately bolted-on 5th gear, although spiders and other small livestock have taken over posession of it, I don't think it will ever move again on it's own power.
Oh and the drivers seat is missing, I 'borrowed' it in the late '80s for my 109" Santana Cazorla and never gave it back (shame).

Where the original matrix has the O-ring connection, Audi has the pipes on the matrix so you just slide the (longer) hoses over and clamp them.
If it is a plastic piece like big radiators or if they are welded to the matrix I don't know.
Dimensions are almost the same.

If I park her on a slope for longer period of time I help her by choosing access height when locking.
Is almost bumpstops and saves a lot of 'pst pst, tic tic tic'.

On second thought, the poblem when tightening the Phillips screw, how tight is tight without ruining the thread or breaking the bracket?
I did it fingertight (a bit more) then wiggled the tubes a bit to make sure they were set and then tightened them. Don't replace the screw for a bolt I think, to not overtighten it.
Bit of a dilemma.