I don't want to spoil the party but you must first see to it that the system is tight. You mention a spraying overflowtube at the rad when hot due to a bodgerepair, fix that first by fitting a new radiator. Repairs have been proven to be unsuccessful.
Tony.
Gems is 26mm, Bosch has a stud with 13mm nut. For Gems you need a ring or open end spanner thoug, a socket won't fit over the blue part.
OldShep56 wrote:
I got a complete mirror arm from Emmots of Calne for £35.
So your thread-question "Where to begin?" becomes answered, right here!
BTW I've read your ongoing story from the beginning on 'the other site' and really felt sorry for you to go from one butcher-mechanic to the other, from memory you started with a transportation problem because the Rangey overheated.
I know being a butcher is a well respected profession in France but only when there is meat involved.
Glad you did not lose faith in your P38, this is the place to start.
Tony.
gordonjcp wrote:
I wonder if the left and right mirrors are interchangeable between LHD and RHD models - which is yours?
Yes they are, they both have two pre-fixed positions, depending on what side the wheel is.
Martyuk wrote:
Haha, I haven't sold a door latch in months..
Maybe the rest of us should add to our sig "Still happy motoring with Marty's latches..."
Sloth wrote:
I have a solution to the sunroof sagging.
When the headlining is out... remove the pesky blind! I have on my last four cars, which have for one reason or another, all needed the head lining coming down. I hate it being closed and never do - so didn't need or want it!
I don't want to do without. Sometimes with the afternoon sun (I said sometimes here in Holland) it just shines right behind my glasses and I'm happy to close it. Or on a well lit motorway at night with every 100 metres a lightpole flash---flash---flash.
In addition to Gilbertd's reply, did you check fuse 40? (my experience from last week, short in startermotor)
riddlemethis wrote:
Luckily when mine was on its way out , the hammer managed to get it going again.
That moment was a few weeks back, the bendix got stuck in the flywheel once when starting.
In fact that should have been my wake-up call.
Morat wrote:
I'm impressed :) Did you run to the shop or get a cab?
At 66 running doesn't make so much difference anymore, our son has a little Peugeot that is capable of carrying a Land Rover startermotor.
Today I did some small trips around town and went to the village nearby to our son's home, to pick up a small trailer.
Parked in the middle of the (small) road to pull the trailer from his driveway, hooked it on and wanted to start. Soft click- no crank!
Tried again, no click, no crank. First car coming up to wait for me clearing the road.
What to do? Opened UB fusebox, blown fuse 40 (starter, EAS).
I know, don't just replace a blown fuse without knowing the cause but a second car waiting already.
Replaced fuse, blew again when turning the key in pos 3.
Maybe a short in the starting circuit? Pulled the small wire from the startermotor, replaced fuse again and it didn't melt when key in pos.3. Presto!
Unhooked trailer and pushed the RR up the drive, drivers in waiting cars looking annoyed. He guys, I need a hand!
Jacked it up and unbolted the starter (with limited tools, 8mm allanbit at home) and went to the electroshop in my town at 16:00 hrs.
The starter appeared to have a short inside, the guy opened it, the brushes were about 80% worn but still in place. All was covered under a thick black layer of greasy smudge that can have caused the short.
Luckily he had a new one on the shelf, original Bosch and I could have it for €160.- on exchange basis.
We went back, bolted it in and starts again! Can be imagination but it looks like she spins faster.
Came home, too late to do the job with the trailer. "Hi honey, that is quick, did you finish the trailerjob?"
"No love, I just lost 160 euro's"
Orangebean wrote:
+1 to what he suggests on hub seals. His suggestion re the old disc is a goodun. I've witnessed him deploying it at first hand- impressive :)
Downside is that you get further away from the centre. I left the 4 nuts on the last piece of thread and tapped the hub out with a hammer/extension bar.
(first remove ABS sensor!)
Well here's the hug with sympathy...
Above all you need some new balljoints ☺
It's not the money, just a lot of work and a press.
...and given the fact that your 80.000 miles are mostly towing-miles, you have a jobby to do ;)
Well I'm not too paranoia about it, the MCS (Maintenance Check Sheet) says refresh box every 2 years or 24K miles, the filter only after the first 24K miles.
If I drain it once a year it takes 5-6 litres which I can afford, I'm sure I treat it very well then.
BTW, I have to wait with the oilchange of mine, appointment is cancelled due to an emergency-repair of some farmer's equipment. The ramp is taken.
I don't mind too much, he's a good guy, always willing to help you out.
Orangebean wrote:
EDIT- re oil quantity, from memory- fill to completely dry system it's 11 litres anyway. Around 5 if just draining and dropping sump so if you have to flush 10 litres or so through until it runs clean, then shove another 5 in once you've changed filter, that's a large proportion of your 20L gone!
After the flush the oil becomes clean, replace filter and top up with the -clean- flushed oil. Saves another 5 litres, it was clean after all.
Done. A flush of contactcleaner, let it sit for a while again contactcleaner, a blast of comressed air and a puff of graphite did the job.
Thanks guys for your help.
Tony.
Here are the pics
1: is this the pin to be pressed to release the barrel in pos. II?
2: do I remove this electrical part prior to pull the barrel out (disconnect battery?)
Do I have to remove something on this side of the locking mechanism?
Thanks guys, I'll see how I get along and post a pick of the lot if I get it right, as soon as I'm dressed and shaved ("don't you dare to go out there in pyjama's" Jo says).