EAS would probably have lost all pressure in the reservoir while it's not been used so would have to fill it from scratch which can take up to 10 minutes (should take 7-8 max but a little bit longer is acceptable). The Gearbox Fault on the dash was likely from the battery voltage dropping while cranking. If the gearbox ECU sees less than 10V at any time it will flag it as a fault.
Pics aren't showing for me and if I try to connect to the links you've embedded, the pics aren't there so I can't even edit the posts for you.
Fill the cooling system as much as you can with the bleed hose from the top of the rad disconnected. Squeeze the top hose, then put your finger over the hole on the top of the rad and release the top hose. Finger off and squeeze again. What you will be doing is forcing the air out the bleed hose when you squeeze the hose and drawing coolant in from the reservoir when you release it. Once coolant starts to come out of the bleed nipple put the small hose back on then carry on squeezing the hose but this time blocking the hole inside the reservoir filler neck where the coolant squirts out. If you keep doing that until you can no longer hear the coolant sloshing around inside the engine, you've got rid of all the air so you should be safe to fire it up without risk of overheating it.
Fuel system will prime itself within a couple of seconds of turning the ignition on, so pause before starting to crank.
Disconnecting the EAS pump will at worst bring up EAS Fault on the dash, probably better to pull Fuse 24 so the EAS ECU isn't powered and it won't go into fault mode.
Gearbox Fault coming up on the dash and no gear indicator means it's gone into limp home mode. That isn't the cause but a symptom.
The problem appears to be that it is angled outwards and if I installed it in the locations I'm thinking of, it would be pointing straight down. I don't want it visible. Where it is at the moment it is behind the towball between the trailer socket and LPG filler so isn't noticed. It works fine for lining up with a trailer hitch, it's just very difficult to judge distances so I'll either stop a few inches short or hit the hitch against the bumper.
That looks virtually identical to my Garmin camera except mine is wireless. If that is at the correct angle it answers my thinking on options 1 and 2, it will be pointing downwards too much.
Just looked at mine and while it sounds good, it doesn't look like it could see the towball so not an option for me. Had the numberplate light surround out and that doesn't seem to be an option either. If I mounted the camera at the back so it doesn't get in the way of my fingers when I open the tailgate, the wide angle lens on the camera will see both sides of the opening making it a kind of widescreen image with very little rearward visibility. Thought about mounting it to one side in the bit of plastic between the hand hold and one of the numberplate lights but there's a bit of steel between inner and outer skins that would get in the way. Options seem to be partially filling the hand hold so the camera has a better field of view but is unlikely to be adjustable so the angle it points down at will be fixed, cutting a hole in the steel to one side of the number plate light panel so it is offset to one side but looking downwards (again, adjustment might not be easy and I don't like the idea of cutting a hole only to find it isn't ideal for one reason or another), mounting it above the numberplate as per the surround that Brian linked to (but it's ugly) or living with it where it is.
The strip on the front edge of the dash is rubber and is just a flexible flap to fill in the gap. When I had my screen changed the guy used a cheesewire on a pretty clever looking pulley type thing that was stuck to the outside of the windscreen on big suckers. Didn't touch the strip at all.
Odd, don't quite understand this leaving it until completed, I always fire up at the first available opportunity. Usually just to check everything is OK before I connect up the downpipes to the exhaust manifolds (because they make a lovely noise with no downpipes......).
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1877-how-to-topic
A bit of a faff but easy once you get the hang of it.
Agreed, it's an interesting option, but can it see the towball?
I wouldn't say all of them but a lot of the older diesels seem to be bought by cheapskates because of the perceived lower running costs. Consequently they don't have anything spent on anything else either.
+1 on a new battery. If it stays the same, then try speaking to Dave Ashcroft at Ashcroft Transmissions if nobody else has any ideas.
Maybe. ETM shows 3 screened wires between the nav computer and display unit which suggests to me that it is sending RGB (especially as they are coloured Red, Green and Blue) rather than composite video that you normally get from a revering camera. Not sure how you'd make it switch either....
My Garmin camera is very small so drilling a hole in the hand grip part of the numberplate light panel and mounting it behind with it peeping through a hole might be possible. Not sure how I could attach it though.
Don't appear to be any seals http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/90127/90128/7140 but what do I know.....
I don't suppose it matters. Just had a look at both mine and neither have one.
There should only be one in the RH (as looking from the drivers seat) rocker cover, not in the other one. I broke mine about 3 years ago and keep forgetting to add one to the order whenever I've ordered bits so haven't had one for quite some time. Don't think it makes much difference in all honesty.
It's here, http://new.lrcat.com/ and is an online version of the system that the main dealers use. Admittedly it's hosted in Russia, hence some descriptions in Cyrillic as well as English. There's also the official JLR one at https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/brand/key/land-rover but the pictures and descriptions aren't as good.
I've got a Garmin wireless camera wired to the reversing light feed so it displays on my sat nav when I select reverse. I fitted it to make hitching a trailer up on my own a lot easier rather than having to keep getting out of the car and having a look to see how close I'd got (I've got one bruise on teh back bumper from when I got too close....). I've mounted it on the bumper between the two holes for the trailer sockets so it is just above the OE swan neck towball. Wiring was dead easy as there's a blanking grommet beneath the LH rear light unit and a dangling plug there for twin socket electrics with a permanent live, ignition switched live reverse light feed and ground all there. However, it isn't easy to judge the distance from the trailer. It could really do with being higher up so it looks down on the towball and where the number plate lights are would be ideal but installing it neatly and wiring would be a real pain.
If you haven't pulled the rail off or the injectors out of the manifold, then no need to do anything. You'll soon know if any of the O rings are leaking as soon as you turn on the ignition so the fuel pump starts up.
Yes, model year changes took place around September/October time so when you bought your new car on 1st January you were getting this years model not last years. Mine is a 98 model (WA VIN), first registered in March 98 but built November 97.
On the chassis numbers, WA is 98 model year so GEMS, XA onwards is Thor. They go T for 96, V for 97, W for 98, X for 99, Y for 2000, they didn't use Z as it could be confused with a 2, then start with numbers so 1A is 01 and so on. The A signifies built at Solihull but as they were never built anywhere else, they will all have A before the actual serial number.
If the rail lifted off completely without having to really pull, chances are that the rings hadn't glued themselves in place so won't have torn. If they had gone hard they probably would tear so will leak and you'll need new ones but if they are still soft(ish), a bit of lube and they should be fine.