Pierre3 wrote:
I don't know who owns the forum but I think that it is "approved" by MB UK.
If you scroll down to the very bottom of the page and see this:
VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada
It's the same bunch that own RR.net. I very much doubt any forum would be officially approved my Mercedes though. People might start telling each other how to repair their own cars and not go to their main dealer's ivory castles. For questions regarding the other halfs Merc I use https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/ and they seem to be a pretty down to earth bunch. Looking at this, https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/forums/ot-off-topic-forums.32/, you wouldn't be out of place.
Forums are like village pubs, pick a friendly one and stay there or go down the road and go into the 'posh' one that won't accept you until you've lived in the village for at least 30 years.
You have to undo the 6 bolts that hold the half shafts in place and pull them out a couple of inches so the ends are clear of the diff. So disconnect the prop shaft (and tie it out of the way), with both rear wheels off the ground, take the wheels off and undo the two bolts holding the brake callipers and tie them out of the way, undo the 6 bolts that hold the hub bearing to the axle casing and pull that out until you feel it come out of the diff, sit it on something so you don't damage the oil seal, then undo the ring of bolts holding the diff to the housing and drop it out. Be aware it is heavy.
MB club wouldn't be owned by VerticalScope, the same bunch of morons that own Rangerovers.net by any chance is it? I was made a mod on there, I suspect to stop me from complaining about it and threatening to leave but I recently had a post reported to me by an offended snowflake. He'd bought an L322 and had asked if it was possible to make it chirp when he locked it and if he could make the central locking open all the doors on the first press and not just the drivers door on the first press meaning he had to press the button a second time to unlock the other doors. Now I have no idea whether he could do what he wanted but someone very kindly pointed out that the answer to his questions were in the owners handbook and if he didn't have one he could download one from the JLR website and even supplied a link. He reported the post and asked that the 'rude and unhelpful' member be warned about his tone. He didn't seem to like it much when I replied saying that the reply wasn't rude, was entirely helpful and he should think himself lucky he didn't get a reply that simply said RTFM (Read The F*cking Manual). He eventually asked for the entire thread to be deleted, which I did, and he's not been seen since, obviously still looking for a forum where they are willing to hold his hand all day long.
There is but if you offer to pay your mates (in beer or whatever) then them coming to you is for work which is allowed.
That's correct, or at least tallies with what I was told anyway. When I first got the P38 after driving a Classic, it felt gutless until I realised the pedal travel is almost twice as much as on the Classic so I was pressing it down the same amount but not opening the throttle as much. When I mentioned this in my local indy they said it was so you had more control when bouncing around over bumpy bits. I've never had a problem with the pedal too low but, after driving tking88's DSE, that needed far more pedal than my V8 anyway.
Checked out the MG Rover sensor only to find it is a 4 pin jobbie suggesting it will work with a Thor that has both sensors in one unit, it isn't compatible with a GEMS which only has a 2 pin connection. Googled the GEMS part number (AMR5929) and came up with this page https://alleuro.com/Parts/Genuine-Land-Rover/AMR5929 which says it supersedes to a BMW part number. Googled that and found I can get one from Amazon by Tuesday https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-0280130026-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B001CO2VU0. Looks to be identical except it isn't green coloured so I'll find out if it really is the same on Tuesday.
While it isn't ideal, that should be OK. It will get offended if they overlap with numbers programmed for other heights though. Need to see what you have programmed for each setting really.
They'll double their workforce to 100. That means they've got to take on another 45 first.....
I honestly can't see anyone wanting to pay that sort of money for an EV built by a few blokes in a shed. If you can afford that, buy a couple of Teslas and an unmolested Classic to take out occasionally.
Martrim (https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php) do the kit but you do ideally need 2 people (3 makes it even easier). Your biggest problem is going to be if you are in ROI, nobody is allowed to send the adhesive so you will need to source that yourself and I hate to imagine what a courier would charge to ship one (and what state it will be in when they've folded it up to fit in their van).
2 pin on the diesel and 4.0 litre, 4 pin on the 4.6. Ashcrofts do a reconditioned one for £285 for the 2 pin or £370 for the 4 pin (https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/differentials/p38-rr-diff.html) but if you can find one over there, that would be easier. I can post up on .net for you if you like, what area are you in?
Also a mechanic, can't be bothered to look after his own car when he spends his days looking after other people's.
I suspect the biggest problem is going to be getting it to you, they're bloody heavy.
But it isn't finished yet? The wheels are still black......
Alfa is a 2007 and was just under £3k while the Ronart is interesting. With a 4.2 straight 6 in it (or even a 5.3 V12 if you feel like being really suicidal) fed with 3 triple DCOE Webers and sitting on relatively skinny tyres on wire wheels, they need to be treated with a great deal of respect. I know the guy that designed and builds them and my only complaint about them is that as they use the standard XJ6 running gear, they actually look too big when you have something to judge it against. Seeing him sitting in it, it almost looks like it was built in 12/10th scale. So you probably would fit in that. He's currently working on a redesign so it will take the running gear from later Jags as a donor XJ6 is getting harder to find and they are going up in value now they are becoming collectable. Bit old hat too with a 4 speed gearbox with Laycock overdrive bolted on the end.
This is one that my mate in France built as the first LHD version (with Dina and our dog). I think the radius of the mudguards is wrong or it needs larger wheels and/or tyres. Problem with that is the wheels won't take larger tyres and wire wheels aren't available any bigger. And yes, that is the nose of a 1973 Volvo 1800ES sneaking in the foreground.
This weekend I'm picking up an Alfa Spider in Skegness and delivering it to the new owner (a guy I used to work with before I retired) in Torquay. For the French trip it'll be a chassis and roll cage for a Ronart W152 (one of these http://www.ronart.co.uk/). It was ordered and paid for last year but the travel restrictions mean delivery has been delayed for months. All the paperwork for it is dated 2020 so, according to the EU document checking service at the A1(M) services just up the road, I shouldn't need any export documents. I'm not so sure so I'll be taking them anyway.. Also got to take 2 negative Covid tests too, one as a punter in case they don't consider me a freight driver and another as a freight driver if they do. Just got to hope I test negative......
Symes wrote:
replacing sensor with Rover MG sensor
What sensor did you get? My temp gauge has become intermittent, it'll read fine one minute then drop to the bottom of the scale, then recover and read low, then go back up again for a while before dropping again. Cleaned all the contacts between the sensor and the BeCM, checked continuity on the wire, checked the ground then connected a meter to the sensor. One minute it gave 186 Ohms, then 378, then open circuit, then back to whatever resistance it felt like so it's duff. Genuine article is available but only from LR and not cheap.
Screwfix Heavy Duty degreaser (https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-heavy-duty-degreaser-5ltr/88668#_=p) and a pressure washer before taking it for test, impresses the tester no end. Good stuff too, even got oily marks from a bicycle chain on my step daughter's white dress off.
Bloody tight. I assume the diesel has stretch bolts hence the 90 degree at a time rather than to a specified torque. The theory is that the bolts stretch and the 'springyness' in them clamps the head down tight which works as long as you have bolts with the correct amount of give in them. Too soft and they either snap off or stretch too easily, too hard and you run the risk of pulling the threads out of the block, so make sure you get decent quality ones. As it's a BMW engine I would suggest getting genuine BMW bolts.
Nice one but you should have told him the oil leak is a factory fitted option. Not doing the mileage at the moment due to lockdown, only managed 5,000 since October. But got a 500 mile round trip this weekend and a run to France next week (which is going to involve 2 negative Covid tests and an awful lot of paperwork).
Amp is separate and lives behind the sound deadening behind the sub/CD changer. It's in the void between the inner and outer wing and a pain to get to as the sound deadening is coated with adhesive strips. Not sure how you could test it without a known working head unit attached.