I fitted a set of Vredestein Quadrac to my car in December 2017 before driving to Latvia for New Year, mileage at that time was 344,940. New they had 8mm of tread. Now, 3 years and 67,625 miles later, they have between 2.5 and 3mm of tread left. Not bad for a 3 peaks marked all season tyre.
Our works vehicles had auxiliary batteries in an airtight box with a tube run through a hole in the floor to vent any gases out. Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302537828590
Do it how plod did it on mine, put the battery on the RHS of the boot. All you've got there is the satnav that is so many years out of date as to be about useless anyway.
But don't hold your breath. DVLA used to deal with registering an import in around 10 days. Still waiting for a V5 for one that I sent the papers in 2 months ago. The last one I did took 3.5 months. Even a re-import (UK car that had been exported and then bought back) took 3 weeks instead of the usual 4 days.
We used a transmission jack to lift it and long M10 coach bolts that could be threaded into a couple of the mounting holes and used to align it so we could slide the case into place until the dowels met. Although I've had a TC off before laying on the ground, with the car on a two post lift, the transmission jack and two of us under there, it still wasn't a fun job.
I fitted a set from X8R recently and had no problems.
Ah, wrong side of Norfolk then. For work I had a split patch. We went by postcodes and I had E, EC, PE and NR, so one day I'd be driving down the M11 to get into London which used to take me about an hour and a half but another day I'd be thrashing across the fens into Norfolk which at times would take me twice that!
Worst ones, after many years of finding them, are oil tank level sensors. When the battery starts to go down instead of transmitting every 15 minutes they transmit constantly. Never measured one as the antenna is integral but I reckon they run a lot more than the 10mW they should.
Norfolk is pretty big, which bit? I'm just outside Peterborough.
If the blue wire is unplugged from the receiver, then it has no aerial on it so it will only respond to the fob, and any other 433 MHz transmission, if it is very close. Just because the BeCM is sleeping what you don't know is if there is anything else waking it up, so it could sleep after the 2 minutes but then be woken again by something. If you've got something like a remote weather station sensor next to where you park the car, that will transmit every 5 minutes or so and will wake it up. Marty's RF Filter allows you to leave the aerial connected so the fob will work over a decent range but it checks for a valid P38 code before waking the BeCM so it doesn't respond to any other 433 MHz transmissions. Do you have multiple short range devices of any sort installed at your house or do you have a radio transmitter site anywhere in the near vicinity?
It may be nothing to do with the receiver. Easy way to check is to unplug it completely. It's got the single blue wire on it and a three way plug. Unplug the 3 way, the fob won't work (obviously) but that will discount the receiver waking the BeCM so you will then need to start looking at the actual current being drawn and start checking what circuit is drawing the current.
Where in the country are you? I used to trace problems like this for a living before I retired and still have the equipment needed.
www.p38webshop.co.uk
Although Marty is away, Nick (Sloth) will be producing another batch of filters although the last I heard they were waiting for another shipment of printed circuit boards.
That's the biggest problem with English weather, you can never say what it is going to do. Where I am it's been a couple of degrees C below freezing since last weekend. Forecast says it will be +2 tomorrow and up to +12 on Monday with double figures all next week. What happens after that is anyone's guess, it isn't unknown to get snow in April! Just when you think winter is over, it comes back to bite you.
Ah, so it's obviously a difference in the splines on the gearbox output shaft rather than being a difference between the gearsets. Knowing I was going to be changing bearings in mine while it was apart, I treated myself to one of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht686-10-254mm-circlip-pliers-set/. Not brilliant but did the job.
If you are getting AC grant, then the HEVAC should be sending power out to engage the compressor, as long as the engine ECU agrees (GEMS - Engine - Others). Rather than trying to use a meter, as the power will only be applied for a short time before it decides that nothing is happening and stops the supply, you best bet is to use a light bulb. You should get power from pin 7 of C244 at the HEVAC (Black/Yellow wire) to the Trinary switch (and not the two pin one as I said earlier, oops), out of that on the White/Light Green wire to the compressor.
So I gave you duff info before and it is the plug at the Trinary switch that needs to be jumpered and not the pressure switch, sorry.
Other half wanted to send a parcel to a friend in Holland last week. Initially the price quoted by DPD was the cheapest but then directed her to the prohibited items list. See https://www.dpdlocal-online.co.uk/prohibited-items, they'd do better giving a list of what you can send! Parcelforce had the usual stuff listed but nothing like as much.
I'd rather fault find on a V8 than a diesel having seen some of the threads about fuel injection pumps. Seems to me that while it's working it's fine but when it stops, or starts to leak or loses it's timing, it's mega money to fix.
Celsius. It may not be cold by your standard but it's still not the weather to be laying on the ground underneath the car outside on the drive.....
The biggest problem with this situation is that it is all half baked and bought in at the last minute so nobody really understands what they need to do. I was recently asked if I could collect a UK registered car that the UK resident owner had left at his holiday home in France but been unable to get there because of Covid restrictions. Phoned Customs to ask what paperwork I would need to be told that as long as I had the V5 to show the owner as being a UK resident and an email from him asking me to collect it for him, it wasn't a problem as I was repatriating it not importing it. So next time I go over, which will be as soon as travel restrictions are lifted, rather than take my ham and cheese sandwiches, I'll take the component parts. Bread isn't a problem but if I take Lurpak butter (made in Denmark), Leerdammer cheese (made in Holland) and find some meat marked made in EU so I can claim that I'm repatriating it rather than importing it......
Anyway, back on topic. Pierre, this thread isn't to slag off diesels or their owners, each to his own. It highlights some of the modified, pimped or Gansta stylee additions that some people have inflicted on poor unsuspecting cars. You know the sort of thing, 22" wheels and rubber band tyres, L322 front end kits and Sport side grilles along with hideous paint jobs and poor taste interiors. Oddly, it seems that quite a few of these alterations (for want of a better word) have been done on diesel versions. Maybe it's because they don't usually fetch such good prices as a V8 or they've previously been used as a workhorse so aren't really suitable for restoration to good condition. To me it seems to be the same mentality as the kid who has a car worth £500, spends the same again on ill fitting, totally unsuitable, body mods and then expects to sell his 'exclusive modified' car for 4 times what it is actually worth.
The magnet fits into a cast slot in the base of the casing underneath the oil pickup tube. See below
All the stuff shown in your first pic has to come out to change the chain rather than being left as it is. What is the difference between the auto and manual epicyclic gearset? The ratios are the same and the gearbox output shaft is going to be turning at the same speed so why the difference?
Just got enough feeling back in my fingers to type. About 2 years ago I fitted a complete new exhaust from Maltings Off Road but the other day I noticed that it sounded a bit throatier than normal. Had a look and noticed that the front Y pipe and cats, the mid section and the long pipe with tailpipe box that goes to the RH side all looked perfect, still shiny even. However, the short pipe and tailpipe box going to the LH side was rotten as the proverbial pear. Although the box was reasonable, the pipe had turned into perforated tube. I did notice when I first got it that some sections were labelled Bearmach while other bits were labelled Allmakes which could explain the difference in quality. Maltings only list a complete system so I phoned them and they agreed to supply me with just the one pipe (for £36 so not a bad price). It arrived a couple of days ago, was labelled Allmakes but fitted much better than the previous one. It had taken me ages to get the two pipes to sit at the same height and angle last time but this just slotted on and everything lined up perfectly.
As I need to go out later, figured I ought to do it really despite it being -2 out there. Work had provided us with AA man style thermal coveralls and as they are PPE and personal issue they stayed at home when I retired. Figured the time had come to try them out and I've got to admit that despite being so bright I suspect I would glow in the dark, they certainly work. The same can't be said for my gloves though. It took me about an hour to change the pipe and probably slightly longer to get the feeling back into my fingers......
But it does suggest that if you need an exhaust and have a choice between Allmakes and Bearmach, go for the Allmakes.
Did it recently to change the chain on mine. I take it you are looking at the Overhaul Manual in RAVE and not the workshop manual? According to the overhaul manual you take off the viscous (although I can't see why you need to but it may be obvious when you have it in front of you), prise the oil seal on the input shaft and remove a circlip that lurks underneath and the gearset should just drop out. There's no gasket between the two halves (or on the viscous housing) just RTV. I remembered seeing somewhere that to crack the seal on the VC housing you use a mallet to knock it round so twisting it off which worked and to separate the two halves there's lugs cast into one side that are ideal for giving a clout with your soft faced mallet. So you will need a new input shaft oil seal and in the refitting instructions RAVE says that whenever the transfer box has been off you must replace the gearbox output shaft seal too.
To change the chain about the only bit that didn't need to come out was the epicyclic gearset, everything else did.