Shouldn't be, what are the actual readings? If around 30-40, it should be fine if you clear the faults. If you've got odd readings, or the faults come back immediately, it might be an idea to lift it slightly on a jack to get it off the bumpstops. Some people have had the same fault after changing airsprings when the car is sitting on it's bum.
Instructions for removing the coupler tell you to do it with the steering centralised and tape it in position as soon as it is off. If you don't do one or the other, the ribbon breaks on full lock.
You obviously aren't aware of the Iceberg project then. I live in Perkins home town (part of the ring road is called Frank Perkins Parkway) and know quite a number of people that work or have worked there. Things like the Perkins 4108 were fitted to no end of things, including Land Rovers, but it was far too agricultural and only suited to tractors and boats. Iceberg was a project to investigate the possibility of converting the 3.5 litre LR V8 into a diesel. Whether there was ever any intention to add a turbo I don't know but had it worked I'm sure that would have followed. The Iceberg project was dropped but there were benefits that came from it. The bottom end was strengthened with cross bolted mains, making that the big difference between the 3950cc engine fitted in the Classic and referred to as the 3.9 and the 3950cc engine fitted to the P38 and referred to as the 4.0 litre. The first engine to benefit from this change was the 4.2 unit (same bore as all the others but 71mm stroke so longer than the 4.0 litre but not as long as the 4.6) that was fitted to the LWB Classic.
If all lights are flashing, it is in hard fault. Read the faults then clear them and it should start to work.
Yeah, it would have a design life of 10 years and be falling apart after 5.....
I'll be honest and admit that as OE Boge are NLA I'd go for the Sh*tpart ones. They are cheap and come with a warranty so if they crap out in a few months time, you just get a new set under warranty. It's not like they are difficult to change and if they only lasted 6 months you'd get free replacements for life.
dave3d wrote:
Lack of a level sensor on the coolant expansion tank is obviously one. The main reason for more cracked heads with the petrol V8 and the BMW diesel engines when they are used in the p38 compared to other models with those engines?
Oh I don't know, the straight 6 petrol engines of the same era are notorious for cracked heads following an overheat so I can't see why the diesel should be any different. The V8 doesn't crack heads, it may warp them so the gasket blows, or following a really serious overheat, can pull the threads out of the block or cause a liner to shift but that same will happen on any all alloy engine if you get it hot enough.
Looks like it......
James should send him a bill for the copyright.
That's it, the bumpstops are on the underside of the chassis so you jack the car up, poke them into place (hence 30mm diameter so they sit in there nicely) and drop the jacks so it is sitting on the blocks, read the heights for each corner and write them into the ECU. Then jack it up, pull those blocks out and fit the next size down and do the same. With a jack at both ends it shouldn't take more than about half an hour.
No, it's a separate reluctor ring on the back of the flywheel/flex plate assembly. It has multiple teeth with a gap so the crank position sensor knows the crank position (oddly enough). It is the gap that the ECU looks for.
No need to be metal, Nylon is fine. On my Access Height blocks, I've drilled and tapped an M6 hole in one end, makes pulling them out of the bumpstop a lot easier.
Make yourself a set of blocks from 30mm Nylon, Delrin or even wooden dowel, https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/eas-calibration-blocks.73321/
This https://howmanymade.co.uk/2016/10/31/range-rover-linley/ appears to be about the most detailed info.
I've got one that needs to go back to Marty but he cleared off to NZ before I could post it back to him. All works except if you open the sunroof or LH rear window, you can only close them with Nanocom. Hence getting a rebuilt one from Marty to fit to the Vogue so this one is spare until he is back if you want to try it.
Huh? RAVE isn't on Imgur.com. You open RAVE by opening the RAVE.exe file. That will open Acrobat, either the version you have installed or, if you are running the full version, the embedded V4 of Acrobat.
What RAVE are you trying to run and what file?
I thought the shorting link was inside the plug or socket so it puts a short on when the plug is disconnected rather than leaving it open circuit? With both ends disconnected it's a simple enough job to check continuity through the coupler. Just don't stick your meter on with anything connected to it. Does the horn work?
That one is only suitable for the non-EGR diesel as it doesn't have the additional spigot on the underside front.
6 were made, 5 RHD and 1 LHD which is owned by James (JMCLuimni). One of the 5 RHD cars was stolen years ago but the other 4 still remain with 1 in the Dunsfold collection and the others in private ownership. Can't help with where they are though.
RAVE, irrespective of which version you are using, is a PDF file. Or, if you have the full version, multiple PDF files. It is indexed but not for pages but for specific jobs as long as you have Acrobat set to display Bookmarks and not Thumbnails in the left hand pane. So replacing the seat heater pad you go to Seats - Repair - Heating element. Like this:
I remember those words from Sloth when we were trying to get the old Poly bushes out of my radius arms back at the last summer camp. At some point in the past, my car had been fitted with Orange poly bushes which had survived pretty well I must admit. They put up a real fight trying to get them out of the radius arms, we couldn't press them out, cut them out or drill through them hence Sloth asking if there was a blowlamp in the workshop so we could burn them out. As it happened there wasn't so we had to continue with brute force and ignorance. When they were eventually out, we found that moisture had got between the bush and radius arm so the hole in the arm that we intended pressing a new, OE rubber, bush into, was covered in rust scale. I spent ages with a hammer and punch knocking the scale out to clean up the hole for the new bushes.
Although it hadn't felt bad before it felt much better with the correct bushes in, so a good job done. Just recently I noticed that the rear panhard rod also had orange poly bushes in it and they weren't looking too good. I'd also noticed the odd random clunk from the back end at times too so decided to do those.
The end that attaches to the chassis was badly worn with a good 5mm of side to side slop in the centre steel bush. That fell out and the poly bit eventually came out after lots of prising with a big screwdriver. Inside was, again, well rusted so needed a lot of work to clean it up enough for it to be possible to push the new rubber bush in. However, the axle end hadn't really worn at all. Tried pressing the steel centre out and it didn't want to know. The poly is so flexible that it just springs back to how it was when pressure is taken off. Tried cutting the outer lip off so the whole thing could be pushed out. Same problem and it was at this point I remembered Sloth's words and picked up a blowlamp. He was right, it can't fight back when it's a liquid but even that wasn't simple. Heat the poly up and it goes black, bubbles a bit but doesn't quite reach the liquid stage and had to be dug out a bit at a time with a screwdriver. Once out, I had to spend even longer cleaning up the hole as it now had melted poly in it as well as rust scale. Pressed the new bushed in and fitted it back to the car.
What surprised me was how much difference two seemingly insignificant bushes make. With the sort of mileages I do I want my car to feel 'tight', no slop or play in anything and it had, but now it feels even better. So yet another reason why poly bushes are a bad idea.