I'd be more worried if it was running closer to 100 degrees and relying on the pressure to keep the boiling point down. More wondering what sort of temperature range is acceptable.

I know the thermostat is supposed to open at 88 degrees, but mine is obviously opening sooner than that. As mentioned a few days ago, my temperature gauge has gone intermittent and as I had a trailer towing trip over to France last week, I plugged the Nanocom in to keep an eye on the temperature. Seems I'm running at a steady 85 degrees, saw 87 once while slogging up a hill and 81 when coasting down the other side but even after being stuck in traffic for an hour (in the UK, that sort of thing doesn't happen the other side of the Channel), it sat at a steady 85-86, never getting any hotter than that. OK, so I've got the Direnza alloy radiator that has 50% greater capacity than standard, it's filled with the required 50/50 mix of Ethylene Glycol anti-freeze, a relatvely newish (about 3 years old) Airtex water pump and a two year old viscous coupling. So the cooling system is in good nick but is running at these sort of temperatures something I need to do anything about?

There's always going to be variations as no two height sensors and linkages are going to be absolutely identical. Front left to right look a bit off except on High setting. Was that done before you'd finished calibrating it? The software will only let you write one height at a time.

There's been a problem with pictures stored on Marty's server for a while but as he's on the opposite side of the planet, he can't give it a kick at the moment.

Our road tax system is based on the CO2 emissions of a vehicle so as there are no emissions from an EV, they pay nothing. However, there have been talks on and off for years on changing to a mileage based system so that would hit them just the same (unless they decided they were exempt). They should put a credit card slot in the public charging points too so they pay for the 'fuel' they use too. Maybe they get sent a bill though, I've no idea? Even the humble Nissan leaf has either a 40 or 62 kWh battery so at the average electricity cost in the UK, that's between £8 and £12 a fill. The quoted range is a maximum of 168 miles with the bigger battery so at £1.25 a litre petrol cost, that's the equivalent of 78mpg if it was running on petrol. You could buy a Micra for half the price of a Leaf, convert it to LPG and get the same, or cheaper, running costs.....

They've spent years encouraging us to use less electricity by banning the sale of Tungsten and Halogen light bulbs and switch to LEDs then they push everyone to use more by buying an electric car.

The other thing that gets my goat is how they will always describe it as 'renewable electricity'. It's not bloody renewable, you use it. You get a supply of electrical energy which you then use and turn into heat or light energy. It's gone, it isn't there any more so you can't renew it. The only way you could say it was renewable is if you used it to illuminate a light bulb that was 100% efficient focused on a solar panel that was also 100% efficient. Wouldn't do you any good though as there wouldn't be any excess to use for anything else.......

Pierre3 wrote:

Panel front pic 003:

Yes, the shell is thin fibreglass mouldings sandwiching another fibre type material and the dusty orange on there is what is left of the old foam, it has disintegrated and needs to be brushed off so you are glueing to a clean surface.

There's no switches in the track, the BeCM counts the number of turns from the motor (hence more than two wires). I seem to remember there is a process for syncing the motor involving slackening it off so it can turn without moving the mechanism and letting it run from one end of the travel to the other. Don't quote me on it though and I'm not sure I got it right. Hopefully someone else will know the process better. Although locking with the manual key probably does the same thing.

The orangy coloured sticky residue is the remains of the foam and all needs to be cleaned off. Wire brush works well too.

Can't help you with the sunroof though, only ever played with the one on the Ascot and that didn't work so I replaced the whole cassette.

Hopefully all the other seemingly complicated problems will turn out to be simple. Definitely getting there now, it's about time we saw some more pictures.

The hardest part of the P38 headlining is the indentations where the sun visors and grab handles go, other than that it is fairly simple. When you come to trimming the excess off around the outside, don't trim right to the edge at the back above the rear side windows. That edge isn't covered by a trim or door rubber so the material needs to wrap around to give a clean edge. Same along the front at the top of the windscreen.

Sounds more like a binding brake then. Can't see it being anything in the diff and that's the only other thing involved if you've disconnected the propshaft.

I use an old head bolt that I've slit down the middle with a cutting disc on an angle grinder. Cleans up the threads (and pushes out the oil and coolant that invariably ends up in some of the threaded holes) without removing any metal.

Damaged connection in one of the plugs? Although I would have expected you to find that when you checked for continuity.

If you jack a front and a rear wheel up so they are both clear of the ground, with the gearbox in Neutral you should be able to spin the wheels. That will show you if it is the parking brake and maybe highlight anything else. Propshaft UJs shouldn't line up, they should be offset. Workshop manual for the Classic shows it but P38 doesn't as normally there is one spline missing on the sliding joint so it can only be assembled correctly. However, as it is a CVC it may be that they used earlier props.

No, the spray on glue dries as soon as it hits the surface so nothing will stick to it other than something else with another layer of the glue on it.

The two fir tree fasteners can't be seen until you remove the D pillar trims, the ones at the very back. The pillars are A down the side of the windscreen, B, the ones at the rear of the front door and front of the rear door, C, behind the rear doors and D at the very back. With them out it's only the door and tailgate rubbers that are holding it up (and the sunroof surround if you have a sunroof). If you recline the front seats and remove the rear seat headrests (or drop the rear seats down, it can be tilted and pulled out the back.

If the height sensor tests OK and swapping it didn't cause the fault to move to the other side, it isn't that. If the wiring shows continuity (and no short to ground) then it isn't that, so that does only leave the ECM. Maybe that is why it was converted to springs in the first place?

Every gasket you need to remove and if I was doing it for myself, rather that stretch bolts I'd fit a set of ARP head studs. The stretch bolts come in various grades of quality, too soft and they stretch too much (or break) and don't hold the head down firmly, too little and you can stress the threads in the block. The studs have the coarse thread where they go into the block but a much finer thread on the top where the nut goes so you have more control of the torque. Do them up to 65-70 ft/lbs (in 3 stages, 40, 55, 65) and the job is done, not cheap though. Don't try putting the studs into the block then fitting the heads, put one stud in (centre top is a good one) to guide the head down then once it is on, screw the studs in hand tight. Head bolts (and studs) need a 16mm socket and I've found a 1/2" drive socket for the smaller headed spark plugs is a perfect fit and usually 6 point too.

Your memories will come flooding back, the A series is a pushrod 4 pot and so is the V8, it's just two of them.

To allow the tailgate to open, you need to ground the Green/Red wire from the RH front latch, either at the latch or at the connector behind the RH rear panel in the boot.

RHD drivers side latch has 3 microswitches, as does the passenger side although only 2 of them are used, so you'll probably get one microswitch more than you need. You don't have a key lock on the RH side so the keyswitch won't be required.

All suppliers are showing it as subject to suppliers stock, which would be Land Rover. Unfortunately LR themselves are showing it as out of stock (https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/fqj103240-latch-assembly-front-door.html). Tailgate locking is supplied by a ground from the RH front door latch so if that door is unlocked the tailgate is too. I don't see why you couldn't fit a RH RHD latch though.