As even you has no intention of removing the body, that is the only time those connectors need to be unplugged. They are there so the loom can simply be plugged together when they are assembling the car. Just chop the wires off one at a time an solder and heatshrink them. Worth doing on both if those multiway connectors, LH and RH.
Really odd height readings will be down to the height sensors. It may be that one of the arms is bent so it is reading on a different section of the track (they are only a simple potentiometer) or it has been fitted wrong so at a different angle to what it should be.
I don't think you will be able to find anyone that can do any more than you. If Nanocom won't connect and EASUnlock won't connect, nothing else is likely to. Check for continuity between pin 11 on the OBD socket (White/Light Green wire) and pin 35 at the EAS ECU, then check continuity between pin 12 at the socket (White/Pink wire) and pin 17 at the EAS ECU. Both these wires go via the C104/204 connection (12 way) behind the LH footwell trim panel. Also check you have 12V on pin 16 at the OBD socket (probably OK as you can connect to other systems) and a ground on both pins 4 and 5. The ground on pin 5 also goes via C102/202 connection (18 way) behind the RH footwell kick panel.
Scraping or Nitromoors paint stripper.
That really annoying dickhead that does the Cinch adverts......
My mate in France did his and used a 3M product sold by a boat chandlers and intended to be used on boat trim. Not sure if you are near the coast but that might be an option too.
Ones where the front prop joins the transfer box as the crossmember gets in the way too are the really awkward ones. Having struggled to get them tight when I was putting the transfer box back on after changing the chain, I thought the way to do it would be to buy some 3/8" UNF Allen bolts and use them instead.
Yes, those are the clips, but as said, you don't actually need them. The adhesive is a contact adhesive, spray it on both surfaces and as soon as they touch it is stuck so no margin for error. Anything else will, as you say, soak through the foam.
Thor has different lambda sensors as the OBD2 standard that became mandatory from 2000 requires sensors that give a 0-1V output. The Titania sensors used on a GEMS are 5-0V sensors so don't meet the standard. I strongly suspect the need to be fully OBD 2 compliant was the main reason why they changed from the Lucas Sagem Generic Engine Management System (GEMS) over to the off-the-shelf Bosch Motronic (as used on numerous other cars) which was already compliant rather than a complete revamp of GEMS. Nothing to do with the fuelling, more a case of being able to continue selling it. As various parts of the casting machining had to be changed to accept Bosch sensors instead of Lucas ones, at the same time they took the opportunity to alter a number of other things. The intake bunch of bananas has the affect of increasing the intake tract length so improving bottom end power and many of the tappings in the block changed from Imperial UNC to metric.
Gilbertd wrote:
Googled the GEMS part number (AMR5929) and came up with this page https://alleuro.com/Parts/Genuine-Land-Rover/AMR5929 which says it supersedes to a BMW part number.
Alleuro got it wrong. New sensor arrived, checked that the plug fitted straight on (it did), took the old one out (which, much to my surprise, just unscrewed rather than putting up a fight) and noted new one was longer but poking a screwdriver down the hole meant there was plenty of room for it, but then noticed the thread. Same diameter but a much coarser thread so it won't screw in. Put the old one back and have just been out in the car and the temperature gauge seems to now be working. I doubt it will work for long though.
It isn't the adhesive, it's the foam. The headlining material is foam backed and the foam deteriorates and crumbles away so there's nothing between the outer cloth and the headlining shell so it hangs down. What is left in the shell is the adhesive and a layer of decomposed foam. If the material is hanging down it means that it has come away right up to the edges and not just in the centre.
Harv is spot on, there's no need to remove the glass, just fully open it. The sliding panel has 4 little plastic guides that it runs in to stop it rattling but if you bow the panel downwards in the centre, you can pop it out. The little sliders will ping off in all directions but if you wrap the headlining material around the edges of the panel that will stop it from rattling and you don't actually need them. Put them back if you like but you'll need to very carefully trim the material at the points where they fit.
The right noise is something I've had an objection to from the start. Watching Formula E on TV and in my house it's been referred to as Formula Scalextric from the noise they make. People complained when Formula 1 went from a V8 revving to 18,000 rpm to a V6 revving to 15,000 rpm and with turbos acting as silencers that they were too quiet and no longer sounded right. I know someone who bought a BMW i8 and I commented that when you have 350 bhp, you want something that makes the right noises. He complained that he can't drop the windows and floor it through a tunnel listening to the noise. The Mercedes C63 AMG and any model Aston Martin were once described as making a noise that is automotive pornography. If you've got a performance car you want it to sound like a performance car.
Morat wrote:
Richard, what colour was the headlining we put in during Summer Camp? I know it was Martrim.. and I'm very happy with it. Eyes vary of course.
I can't be certain as Marty ordered it but I'm pretty sure it was Oatmeal (yes it was, just found it here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/433-summer-camp-2017?page=6).
Getting the headlining shell out can be done on your own although it is easier with two people, any more and you just get in each others way. Laying the material on does really need two or even three people so it can be held clear of the shell while the spray glue is put on then smoothed down a section at a time. Can't find the thread but someone rigged up a stand to put the roll of material on so could do it on their own.
Handbrake operates on the rear propshaft so it locks the props which prevents trying to turn the rear prop doesn't turn the front one.
No, doesn't matter which side as long as one of them is clear of the ground. Then the prop spins so easily you can't get any grunt on the nuts as the whole thing turns. You should be able to get the socket on two of them, drop the front wheel back down, undo those two, lift the wheel, turn it so you can get to the other two, then drop it again (and put the handbrake on to stop the front wheels driving it off the axle stands at the back).
Early Classics are pretty horrible to drive but the sort of people that buy them pay serious wedge for ones that have either been fully restored to as new condition or ones that have spent their entire life stored in an air conditioned garage (now there's an opening for me, if anyone wants AC in their garage, drop me a PM, I seem to be specialising in installing AC in summer houses being used as home offices just recently). They'll buy them as an investment knowing that they will never fall in value as long as they remain standard. They don't buy them to use them so I can't see the point in having something that looks like a Classic Range Rover, whether using original body parts or a replica, that has a boot full of batteries and a Dyson motor where a V8 should be.
To turn the prop you have to have one front and one rear wheel off the ground. Tool here https://www.walmart.com/ip/New-Drive-Shaft-Socket-Wrench-with-9-16-Inch-Nut-3-8-Inch-Drive-Tool-DA1065/433893693 although twice the price of here but once you take shipping into account, probably not too bad.
Pierre3 wrote:
I don't know who owns the forum but I think that it is "approved" by MB UK.
If you scroll down to the very bottom of the page and see this:
VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada
It's the same bunch that own RR.net. I very much doubt any forum would be officially approved my Mercedes though. People might start telling each other how to repair their own cars and not go to their main dealer's ivory castles. For questions regarding the other halfs Merc I use https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/ and they seem to be a pretty down to earth bunch. Looking at this, https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/forums/ot-off-topic-forums.32/, you wouldn't be out of place.
Forums are like village pubs, pick a friendly one and stay there or go down the road and go into the 'posh' one that won't accept you until you've lived in the village for at least 30 years.
You have to undo the 6 bolts that hold the half shafts in place and pull them out a couple of inches so the ends are clear of the diff. So disconnect the prop shaft (and tie it out of the way), with both rear wheels off the ground, take the wheels off and undo the two bolts holding the brake callipers and tie them out of the way, undo the 6 bolts that hold the hub bearing to the axle casing and pull that out until you feel it come out of the diff, sit it on something so you don't damage the oil seal, then undo the ring of bolts holding the diff to the housing and drop it out. Be aware it is heavy.