Definitely. They always suggest plumbing in parallel in case the particular vehicle controls the heater temperature by shutting off the flow to the heater matrix. Most modern cars, including the P38, have a full flow system where the heater temperature is controlled by directly the airflow through or around the heater matrix. In parallel the coolant will take the path of least resistance so may flow more through the vaporiser or the heater depending on which has the least resistance. When I bought my Classic it was plumbed in parallel and, as it was a single point system, would run on LPG from stone cold. Only problem was, in the winter after 300-400 yards it would die as the vaporiser turned into a block of ice. Obviously the heater was the path of least resistance, so I re-plumbed it in series and that cured that one. My P38 was also in parallel when I got it and when idling in traffic in winter the heater output would drop to vaguely lukewarm suggesting the vaporiser was the least resistive. Re-plumbed that one too and no problems with the heater or vaporiser.

The pipework on a GEMS is also much neater. My vaporiser is on the LHS next to the EAS box and my pipes are output from the inlet manifold to a 19-16mm reducer then 16mm pipe run under the ignition coils to the vaporiser. Output of the vaporiser is 16mm pipe run between the back of the inlet manifold and ignition coils to a 16-19mm adapter and a 90 degree bent hose to the inlet of the heater matrix. Outlet of the heater matrix then runs to the header tank as it should. Some have questioned whether this will reduce the heater output as the vaporiser will cool down the flow before it gets to it. It does but only by a few degrees so when the coolant temperature is at normal running (93 degrees in my case) the heater core temperature sensor reports around 80-85, so still plenty hot enough to heat the car on a frosty morning. On every car I've owned (or worked on) I've re-plumbed like this and never had any problems. There's also a lot less joints to leak.

You need to be able to copy the Direct Link, clicking the Copy button next to it doesn't copy it, it simply highlights it so you know which bit to copy. I just right click and select copy but no idea how you do that on an iPhone.

That's the difference between the French, Germans, Dutch, Belgians and UK. The first four charge you a small fee and as long as your car doesn't pollute too much (and all accept that LPG is a cleaner fuel than petrol even), they allow you to drive into the Cities. If it does pollute too much, they don't allow you in so the air pollution is reduced. Unlike the UK where you can drive any old clunker putting as much crap into the air as you like as long as you are prepared to pay the fee.

Currently, as Gordon who runs the forum is working on a picture upload method, you have to upload a picture to a hosting site (most use Imgur.com) and then link to it from here. There's a thread on how to do it https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1877-how-to-topic but no idea how to do it from an iPhone (mind you, I had one that my employers gave me and couldn't work out how to do most things.....).

Good job I haven't got a trip over the Channel coming up though. As the vignettes wouldn't come off I've had to order new ones. In the terms and conditions for both they say that if you lose or damage it you need to buy a new one. So I've just contributed 6 Euros to the German economy and 4.51 to the French.......

Looking at post 554 here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620?page=28, yes there is.......

I've actually heard of someone else mentioning this problem in the past but no idea if he ever found the cause.

Seems like I got the installer that knows what he is doing. I started off taking the side and bottom trims off so I could fit a new plenum filter while waiting for him to arrive. Bottom trim came off without breaking any of the spider clips (all bar one stayed on the plenum and not on the trim though) and I was surprised to find no build up of dirt and dead leaves under there either. Took the A pillar interior trims off too. Fitter turned up with a heated screen so that was a good start. Between us we managed to get the top trim off. The RAVE suggestion of using a credit card didn't work but we managed to release on of the clips at one end then slide the whole lot sideways. He wouldn't like to say if the screen had been replaced before or not but there was a lot of sealer at the top stopping the trim clips from sliding as they should. The only thing he couldn't do was get my ULEZ vignettes off the screen but as they are designed to not be removed that wasn't a surprise so I'll need to get new ones.

After the screen was in he even got me to start the car and put the screen heater on to make sure that was working as it should. Between us we put the top trim back by putting the clips onto the studs then pushing the trim down onto the clips. A couple of them broke when getting it off so I'll have to see if it rattles and if it does new clips are only a quid each. All in all, I'm happy with the job he did and he was happy for me to hang around watching what he did so that says to me he's confident in how he did it too.

They will only be loose if they weren't properly tightened up before. They are a bit of a bitch to get a socket on to which could explain it. To change the bolts you'll need to take the parking brake drum off (slacken off the 17mm headed adjuster on the back so it slides off) and the output shaft flange. The bolts push through the flange and are held in place with a big circlip. While it is off it's worth replacing the output flange oil seal as a parking drum full of ATF doesn't help with braking efficiency.

leolito wrote:

I would not bother replacing airbags, you will not find them new anyway

By air bags he is referring to air springs, not the fireworks that lurk inside the steering wheel and dash.

It's Nationwide Windscreen Services, so the first one. Not only will I be there the car is parked in front of the garage with a CCTV camera looking straight at it. I'll move Dina's Merc so they can park their van next to mine and then that will be in full view of the camera too. I'd better clean the cobwebs off the lens before they get here.....

Oh dear, just noticed it's being done by the same bunch that did Sloth's here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1015-nationwide-motorglass-i-have-no-words. Not a good score on Trustpilot either, more negatives than positives, but one of the excellent reviews mentions the Huntingdon depot which is the depot that called me. I don't think the company makes that much difference in all honesty, some fitters are good others aren't.

The condenser fans don't shift enough air to be of any use. Sloth put an electric fan on his car and did a write up on it a while ago, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/534-v8-electric-fan-conversion on a V8 but shouldn't be any different.

Phoned insurance company this morning, they took all the details and said they would pass it onto the local depot who would call me. Within a couple of seconds of speaking to them I got a text from Nationwide Windscreens who called me a couple of hours later. "Range Rover needing a windscreen?", "Yes", "would you like it doing tomorrow?", "Yes, if you can", "it isn't heated is it?", "Yes, it's a Pilkington Optikool heated screen", "Oh"......

We'll have to wait and see what happens tomorrow now.

As I don't use the ashtray but do use the fag lighter socket, I've got a pair of USB charge sockets in the ashtray itself powered from the underside of the lighter socket. I've also fitted another lighter socket on the side of the centre console which powers the sat nav and dashcam and another on the back of the centre console below the rear passenger vents for anything else. You can never have too many power points. Now you've got to sort out the book on the HEVAC.....

There's a connector behind the knee panel on the drivers side, that one is a prime candidate for the contact cleaner or soldering iron. Maybe you disturbed it while you were under there?

You've got the front air springs already so you may as well change them. Rears tend to go first in my experience so I suspect they've already been done and the fronts are the originals (but are still pretty good). There's the one ball joint on the drag link arm that has a tiny bit of play in it and Chris is lined up to do the top and bottom ball joints already, so that's them sorted. Hub seals rarely leak unless the hubs have been off so leave them until they start to leak. Discs and pads when the time for new pads comes. Can't really comment on the stat, water pump and viscous on a diesel, so wait for someone else to reply on them. Suspension bushes could be done at the same time as the ball joints and a coolant flush wouldn't do any harm.

Heater core O rings have been done at some time in the past, the holes in the console sides were there when we had it apart to fit the Parrot and attacking the propshaft UJ's with a grease gun is supposed to be done far more regularly than anyone ever does it.

Changing the auto box filter and fluid is worth doing but it was too bloody cold when you were here last month!

Nice one, what did you do with the brakes? You don't normally get too much travel when they need bleeding.

A spring loaded centre punch will cause what looks like a stone chip which will every easily turn into a crack. I considered it on mine but the concern about how well the replacement is fitted meant I'd rather stick with the one in there that doesn't leak and fits properly. I've also got French and German ULEZ vignettes stuck on my windscreen and they are both the type of stickers that won't come off in one piece so I'd probably need to get replacements for those too.

Not necessarily, the rules mean you have to have an export document but because we are still in the single market, there's no duty to pay on cars moving between UK and EU. Or, to be more accurate, there is duty payable on a used car but it is rated at 0% hence the need for the export document. I work on around 60p per mile so my costs for a 2,000 mile round trip is £1200 but I normally arrange a return load to halve the costs.

The main problem we have at the moment is down to the Covid lockdown rules. Only what are considered essential journeys should be made so for an individual that means going shopping for food, medication, etc. But you are also allowed to travel for work (if you are unable to work from home) so a transport driver is making a journey for his work.

You'll have two power supplies, a permanent live and an ignition switched which will both have been on the one DIN connector into the original head unit. Although they should all be wired the same it isn't unknown for them to be reversed on some cars/head units. It sounds like you have permanent and ignition switched reversed.