Definitely looks like ATF to me (nice clean ATF at that). Could it be that you have a leaking cooler hose and it is spraying it onto the side of the engine and dribbling down?
Ascot on Triple Sports, 8J x 18 so running the standard 255/55 x 18 tyres while the Ex-Plod is on Futura which are 7J x 16 so rather than running the usual 255/65 x 16 that all the other 8J x 16 wheels took, runs on 235/70 x 16 tyres (more commonly a Discovery 2 or late Range Rover Classic size). Only a few of the earlier, usually base model, P38s were fitted with the 7J x 16 wheels but plod obviously wanted to save a bit of money when they specced mine.
Triple Sport (see https://www.cxmdunord.nl/rims-land-rover/) same as I have on the Ascot. Not Discovery but actual Range Rover wheels, just not particularly common.
I have a feeling at if the laptop is booted with the cable already plugged it, Windows detects it as a mouse or something like that. I boot up the laptop, start the car, then plug in.
I've seen 3 different types of diaphragms from different rebuild kits, so it's quite possible you've got an iffy one. More likely that than anything you did, if that was the case I'd expect it to not work from day 1.
Altering the delay never seems to do much. Go into the Comm port properties and drop the baud rate to 4,800.
With you pictures you are doing it right but then editing the link. What should appear is;
Looking at a spare valve block I have here, it appears the PRV is just that, a passive device. No electronics attached to it, just a brass valve.
There's 2 versions of the 4HP22/24, the 4HP22 as fitted to the Classic and the 4HP22EH as fitted to the P38. The EH version is electronically controlled.
On the underside of the valve block, you've got two solenoids (Front Left and Rear Right) but there's also the Pressure Relief Valve and Pressure Switch. Highly unlikely a solenoid would suddenly start leaking that much air out so it could be either of the others.
Only thing that would be of concern for me is that it absorbs water so it might not be too good when I come to use it after it's been in the tank for a few months. Maybe I should just pump it out every couple of months and use it in the lawnmower?
If it won't connect, drop the baud rate to 4,800. Had to do that when trying to use the RSW software on a Classic although works fine at 9,600 on mine.
+1 on spurious garbage due to no comms.
Years ago, a friend had an Austin Maestro van which was fitted with the Prima engine but after around 150,000 miles it was getting a bit tired so he asked someone he knew that worked in R&D at Perkins what he suggested. At the time Austin Rover, as it had become by then, were looking for a power unit for the newer generation Rover 400 series and they didn't think the Prima was up to scratch. Perkins R&D had been refining the Prima to make it more powerful, quieter and more fuel efficient but Rover chose to go instead for something else (Honda I think due to a collaboration with them on the Accord/Rover project). As a result there were a number of these refined Prima engines sitting around Perkins R&D making the place look untidy so one was sneaked out of the factory one night shift and went into the Maestro van. A few weeks later I needed a van to take an Austin Healey 3 litre engine to the south of France and was offered the loan of it. Somewhere, I have a photo of my co-driver's hands holding the steering wheel and the speedo showing 140 mph. That van would cruise at a ton all day long with two people and a big lump of cast iron in it......
None would do what you, and I, want it appears
Shouldn't be, what are the actual readings? If around 30-40, it should be fine if you clear the faults. If you've got odd readings, or the faults come back immediately, it might be an idea to lift it slightly on a jack to get it off the bumpstops. Some people have had the same fault after changing airsprings when the car is sitting on it's bum.
Instructions for removing the coupler tell you to do it with the steering centralised and tape it in position as soon as it is off. If you don't do one or the other, the ribbon breaks on full lock.
You obviously aren't aware of the Iceberg project then. I live in Perkins home town (part of the ring road is called Frank Perkins Parkway) and know quite a number of people that work or have worked there. Things like the Perkins 4108 were fitted to no end of things, including Land Rovers, but it was far too agricultural and only suited to tractors and boats. Iceberg was a project to investigate the possibility of converting the 3.5 litre LR V8 into a diesel. Whether there was ever any intention to add a turbo I don't know but had it worked I'm sure that would have followed. The Iceberg project was dropped but there were benefits that came from it. The bottom end was strengthened with cross bolted mains, making that the big difference between the 3950cc engine fitted in the Classic and referred to as the 3.9 and the 3950cc engine fitted to the P38 and referred to as the 4.0 litre. The first engine to benefit from this change was the 4.2 unit (same bore as all the others but 71mm stroke so longer than the 4.0 litre but not as long as the 4.6) that was fitted to the LWB Classic.
If all lights are flashing, it is in hard fault. Read the faults then clear them and it should start to work.
Yeah, it would have a design life of 10 years and be falling apart after 5.....
I'll be honest and admit that as OE Boge are NLA I'd go for the Sh*tpart ones. They are cheap and come with a warranty so if they crap out in a few months time, you just get a new set under warranty. It's not like they are difficult to change and if they only lasted 6 months you'd get free replacements for life.