I know exactly how you feel George. I've been doing some work on the Ascot (until the temperature plummeted and white stuff started falling out of the sky) so I'd been using mine on that. Had to do an 80 mile round trip on Monday and half way there I realised I didn't have it in the car, it was still in the Ascot. I don't remember the last time, if ever, I've had need to use it while out and about but I still started to worry about all the things that could stop working and I'd need it.
The Nano is telling you the fault. On a GEMS power comes from the HEVAC,through the multiway connector behind the RH kick panel to the pressure switch (which is only closed if there is pressure in the AC refrigerant circuit) and on to the compressor clutch. So it can be a poor connection in the kick panel connector, a dirty connection in the plug onto the pressure switch or you just haven't got any refrigerant in it. HEVAC detects how much current is flowing and if less that it expects to see from the clutch, flags the fault and doesn't try to operate it again until next time you restart.
Clutch air gap should be between 16 and 31 thou and can be adjusted by undoing the centre nut, taking the outer part off, removing a shim or two from behind it and putting it back together.
Looking at the face view of the plugs for the switches in the ETM, they don't appear to be the same. Same connections but different plug size.
P38 service schedule says to change the filter at every oil change but on a lot of similar vintage cars the filter was changed at every other oil change. It is on a 2007 V6 Merc too. Only problem with that is that people lose track of which oil change they are doing and is it the one that includes the filter too or not?
Probably because the black looked better and as long as it has the red triangle on it, it'll meet type approval.
Have you checked to see how much current is being drawn when it is just sitting there with the BeCM asleep? That will tell you if it is normal and the battery is buggered or if something is draining it. From the amount of current being drawn it's possible to calculate the sort of thing you should be looking for. One thing that has been found to cause battery drain is corrosion inside the main interior light, so try pulling that out and unplugging it.
Because of water dripping off the inside of the sunroof (and buggering up the window switchpack), the previous owner of the Vogue that I bought with a mate, had put a strip of gaffer tape over the sunroof edges. So no rain could get in but it still had water dripping off the inside. We put a dehumidifier inside the car and left it there for a few days. We emptied almost a gallon of water out of it.... It isn't a sunroof leak, it's water already in the car condensing on the inside of the sunroof due to the temperature differences.
StrangeRover wrote:
Mine seems to have an awful lot of condensation which drips off the sunroof on to the centre console, surely that isn't normal?
In that case you've got a lot of moisture inside the car or there would be nothing to condense. The Ascot had a bit of condensation on the inside of the sunroof but that was mainly because it was sitting around not being used. It doesn't leak in the rain though. Do your windows also steam up?
Thanks Chris but I've already got a complete wheel with all the buttons that was given to me, and the wiring is all there, but I want to keep my original, well worn, plain, non-leather wheel. That, like the big spraystopper mudflaps, are part of the cars character and history. My works Kangoo had a small rocker for volume up and down on the right side behind the wheel and I want to recreate that, index finger for up and 2nd finger for down.
No book is almost certainly down to new pots in the blend motors and giving the motors a clean and a blast of 12V in each direction, putting new brushes in the blowers and making sure everything moves nice and freely. Having a mate who is a mobile AC man helps too, as does jumpering the connections behind the RH kick panel as the feed to the AC compressor goes through that. I haven't had to have the heater box out as it seems fine but that may be because my car gets used almost ever day so the flaps are kept well exercised. I used to get the book on at odd times when I first got the car and the drivers blend motor would stick at one or other end of the travel. You could almost guarantee it would stick on full heat in the summer and full cold in the winter. After driving through France with the outside display showing -2, snow falling and sitting in a sleeping bag in an effort to keep my feet warm, I decided I really should do something about it. There's some things that seem like a minor inconvenience until one day you realise they need to move higher up the list of priorities.
I've ordered one of the interfaces so I can have a play. My Kenwood can take a remote input but my steering wheel doesn't have any buttons as the car was supplied to plod with no radio or cruise control. I'm looking for some very low profile pushbuttons that I can mount on the back of one of the spokes so I have a volume up and down on there. If the SW-RC1 can also be programmed to answer the phone, I'll add a third switch on the other side for that too. Just got to find some suitable switches now......
I had a near identical fail on an electrical socket on an engine I was working on yesterday. A speedboat came up at a price I couldn't refuse and I've been playing with that so it will be all ready to go when lockdown ends. Got a 40HP Evirude twin cylinder two stroke outboard on it which I fired up with the bottom end sitting in a dustbin full of water. Happy that it was running as it should after I'd cleaned the carbs and adjusted the throttle linkage, I switched it off and nothing happened, it carried on running. Stopped it by stuffing a rag in the air intake (you can't put an outboard into gear and stall it) and started looking at the diagram and tracing wiring. When switched off one wire to the engine is grounded so set about tracing that and found an inline connector that looked fine but I could stop the engine by wiggling it about. Cut it open and found the wire had broken inside the connector where it comes out of the terminal. Cut the connector open and attacked it with the soldering iron and heatshrink. Just glad it wasn't on the working side or I'd have spent days tracing wiring to work out why I had no sparks.
Yeah, the second one, the cheaper one, will work on any type of diesel. It's a single point so just has a venturi in the air intake and introduces the LPG there.
Although tanks are dated for a 10 year life, they are never checked here so many are much older. Underslung tanks can rot away in less time than that while a wheel well tank can last far longer. I've got one that is 15 years old that I took out of one car and it still looks like new. My car was converted in 2008 so I assume my tank is now 3 years out of date. The MoT test includes a brief look at the LPG system, the fuel system (irrespective of what type of fuel) is checked for leaks and security so on a converted car, both the petrol pipes and LPG pipework will be checked. If you've got a gas leak the tester will notice it anyway while he is under the car unless he's got no sense of smell.
If you have a high pressure pump capable of pumping liquid gas, you could use that but then you need somewhere to pump it to. Put it somewhere away from sources of ignition and with no holes in the ground or drains (as the vapour is heavier than air and will pool in them), a couple of long bits of wire onto the valve and connect a battery at a safe distance.
You can put white bulbs in but with the LEDs being that much brighter they look a sort of washed out red. Red behind the red looks right (or as right as LEDs ever can).
Not had a book on the HEVAC for at least 6 years, do it right, do it once......
You'd probably need this kit then https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/uncategorized/single-point-open-loop-induction-diesel-inj-f-e/
From my presence on LPGForum.co.uk, I know an LPG system in Oz costs a lot more than here so it will take much longer to save the initial outlay. A decent quality multipoint here will cost around £1500 to install, about half that if you buy the component parts and install it yourself but obviously, either way, you need to do the mileage to make it worthwhile. Or, you buy a car already converted, purchase price will be no different, somebody else has taken the hit on installation costs and you're into an immediate saving.
StrangeRovers 14mpg doesn't appear brilliant but with the price difference in fuels his cost equivalent price against running on petrol still makes his car cheaper to run than your 21mpg. Coupled with the fact that from my point of view, running LPG allows many European countries to categorise me the same as a hybrid for their low emission zones is a definite bonus and the cleaner burning fuel results in less wear in the engine too. What's not to like?
I'm paying 58p a litre compared with supermarket petrol at £1.10 a litre, or filling station petrol at £1.16 - £1.20 a litre, so half the price. So 14mpg on LPG gives the cost equivalent of 28mpg if I was running on petrol, about the same, if not less, than running a diesel.
Dunno on a Thor, on a GEMS it's on top of the LH shock mount. It's got a hose from the charcoal canister and another to the inlet manifold.