I can't remember if the brake lights are separate 21W bulbs or if they are dual, stop/tail lights. If the former, you need https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-rear/products/led-382-rear-brake-unit-high-resistance (the same ones for the rear fog light) if the latter you'd need https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-rear/products/led-380-high-resistance-rear-brake-unit. Number plate lights are normal 5W push in, so they need to be https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-number-plate/products/led-number-plate-lights while the high level brake light will need 5 of these https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-rear/products/led-580-rear-brake-unit (assuming they will fit, they look like they may be too tall).

Are you sure they are going to work and not give you blown bulb messages due to the lower current draw?

Sounds like the motor is weak or the flap is stiff then. If you can move the quadrant by hand from end to end that should be OK but bear in mind that the quadrant drives two cogs, one at the top and one at the front as well as a lever at the back. The blend motors are fairly easy to take apart and I've got one working again by spraying contact cleaner into the motor and hitting it with 12V in both directions so it drove both ways. With the lid off, the motor has two tabs that slot it onto the circuit board so it pulls out. When you put it back together, note that the main cog that drives the quadrant has an arrow on it as does the cog on the pot, they need to be lined up (a bit like timing marks).

When you first turn the ignition on and it does it's self test, you said the motor moves when dangling on it's cable but does it still move when attached to the flaps? I think you said it does. In which case, it is a lack of feedback so while it is moving the HEVAC isn't aware it is moving so thinks it has stalled.

Nanocom does get it's left and right messed up at times, so may be confusing the distribution motor with the left motor so reporting a fault on the wrong one. If the HEVAC has detected a fault on a blend motor it doesn't try to move it. Staying at 85% means it isn't moving, if it was you'd see it move from where it is to either 0% or 100% depending ion which you have told it to go to.

The other way of checking, is to use the Inputs - Values menu. That shows the current state of the feedback from each blend motor. So if you change the temperature settings from Lo to Hi, you'll see the position change. Same with the distribution motor if you change the airflow from floor to screen, you should see the % change. However, bear in mind the above, if it has detected a fault it may not try to move the motor so the feedback won't change.

That's more like it......

Use the Nanocom to check that it is seeing feedback. Go to HEVAC - Utilities - go to the second page and force the Distribution motor to 0%. While it moves it will show the feedback as a percentage and should go down to 0%. Then poke the button and change it to 100% and force again. You should see it move and the feedback should move from 0% to 100% (or 106% as mine shows which is a good trick if you can do it).

Take the distribution motor off the heater box so it is dangling on it's cable. You should have enough slack to be able to move it in front of the instrument cluster (assuming you've gone in that way), plug the instrument cluster back in and sit it in place. Hold the spindle on the blend motor and turn the ignition on. The system will do it's self test by moving all the motors and checking for a valid signal back from the feedback pot. Make sure it does turn. If it does, it isn't stalled but there's no feedback so the HEVAC doesn't know it is moving. If it doesn't, it's knackered.

Where are you finding the info on tyre and wheel sizes Clive? There used to be an excellent website, the wheel and tyre bible that had 4 pages of really useful information but it suddenly went all commercial and now has no useful info at all.

It does unless you have a cracked copy, in fact I don't think the current paid for version will work with something as old as the P38. The alternative is http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 which is basically Microcat online (and covers all models). Biggest difference is that with Microcat you can put in a VIN (or UK registration number) and it will only list parts fitted to a particular car, very useful when looking for parts for a diesel for instance and don't know which part number relates to a diesel and which to a petrol.

My wheels are the 7J x 16 Futura so the specified tyre size is 235/70R16, rather than the 8J that most of the other 16" wheels (and all of the 18") are. Even they look slightly oversize though. I must admit if I was buying tyres for 18" wheels, I'd definitely go for the Pros in standard recommended size.

I don't think mine has ever been off since it came from the factory and I've no intention of trying to get it off either. The Ascot has the towbar and the swan neck and bolts are in the boot looking like they've never been used. I haven't looked at the markings but I suspect the bolts are not your average mild steel bolts from a hardware store. Microcat lists the swan neck as a separate part but not the bolts.

No, that's C243 that plugs into the cruise control ECU which you obviously don't have. The yellow one next to it would plug into the cruise inverter module. Mine is the same, no cruise but the plugs and wiring are there. The OBD socket is on the passenger side, right at the front near the bulkhead and next to the centre console.

Shouldn't be a problem if all the plugs are undone (which they will be if you are going to take the HEVAC unit out completely). If you set it at hot on both sides then pull the HEVAC, the blend motors will have driven the flaps to give maximum airflow through the matrix and they will stay there. You won't have any blowers working but ram air should still give you some heat when moving.

I'd say modify the Witter, at least then if anyone does check it, they will see the E marking on it. If your welding is decent, they might not realise it hasn't always been like that.

I'm confused, easy I know, but you say you can hear the fuel pump relay cut out after 17s yet you also say it doesn't run with the ignition in pos 2? Are you saying you can hear it over the noise of the starter cranking? You can often hear a relay click in but not drop out. Simon's suggestion is a possible too but if it is the fuel pump not running, then hot wire it. Run a wire from the fuel pump relay socket and put it on the battery positive (or put a jumper in place of the relay). Then you'll be able to run the pump before you try to start it. If it fires up immediately, it is a fuel pump problem, if it's just the same, it's something else.

It's an odd one as if the pressure was down or if there was a restriction, it wouldn't run normally once started.

No, GEMS has a filter and a return with a pressure regulator on the fuel rail, Thor doesn't other than in the fuel pump assembly itself and supplies fuel at a set constant pressure.

The rod fits into the hole to take the weight of the back of the unit but yes, normally there would be a conical rubber bush on it so it doesn't rattle. That's the right part number for the bush/bung whatever you want to call it.

Yeah well, it's in Monaco so it's gone for the Riva look.