The distribution quadrant is stiff compared to the others. The others are just moving a single flap and not at least 3 like the distribution flaps so it's going to be stiffer. Just how stiff is too stiff is a different matter though. There's a bodgers method of freeing them without taking the whole heater box out and stripping it down in post 25 here https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/photos-of-method-for-freeing-blend-flaps-with-s-t-screw.14322/page-2 (click on the thumbnail picture to see all of them).
The codes may have something to do with it. On a cold start the fuelling will be open loop initially to give time for the lambda sensors to heat up and start giving an output. It could be that the mixture is so far out that it doesn't want to run right. Have you tried resetting the adaptive values?
As Paul says, yes you can. As long as the instrument cluster is connected you won't offend anything.
Doesn't look too out of place either
I've got international breakdown cover, although I've never had to use it, but the last thing I want is to be sitting at the side of a motorway 1,000+ miles from home with a car that won't go for the lack of something I could easily carry with me. The starter because you can't tow or push start an auto so everything can be fine but if the starter has died, you ain't going anywhere. Same with the alternator, a lack of electrics and again, you are stuck. Coils fail without warning (as do crank position sensors and there's one of those in there too but I forgot to mention it). If I can't fix it at the side of the road a breakdown man wouldn't be able to either, but he would take me to a garage where I'd probably be waiting days for parts to be found and got to me.
Kenwood KDC-BT950DAB, https://kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/dab/KDC-BT950DAB/, I've got the predecessor to it and colour 18 is a perfect match for the HEVAC. The display is also dimmable at night time.
My cover has been cut into three pieces (not by me, it was like that when I got it). Once lengthways (front to back of the car) down the centre, so the right side stays put, then the left side has been cut in half crossways so I have a quarter size hatch that I can lift out to get to the stuff that is under there. There's a length of timber screwed to the underside of the right hand half for the two left hand halves to sit on so it is all flush when closed up.
It fits in between the steering wheel controls and the aftermarket head unit and has been used by a number of people with great success. It converts the ladder resistor network used on older cars like the P38 and others of similar vintage to the data signal that a newer head unit needs. I think you have to program it in some way depending on what brand of head unit you are fitting.
You'll get a lot more in there that that. I've got the main bit full of LPG tank but in the space next to it where the polystyrene thing would have gone originally I've got some lengths of assorted sizes of heater hose, a set of spark plugs, a bag of assorted sized nuts and bolts, a set of ignition coils with leads, a bag containing the EAS emergency kit (Schrader valves, pipe joiners and lengths of pipe), a bag of assorted size jubilee clips, a spare serpentine belt, a starter motor, an alternator, a brake accumulator, my warning triangle, two tow ropes and a pair of heavy duty gloves.
I can't remember if the brake lights are separate 21W bulbs or if they are dual, stop/tail lights. If the former, you need https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-rear/products/led-382-rear-brake-unit-high-resistance (the same ones for the rear fog light) if the latter you'd need https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-rear/products/led-380-high-resistance-rear-brake-unit. Number plate lights are normal 5W push in, so they need to be https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-number-plate/products/led-number-plate-lights while the high level brake light will need 5 of these https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-rear/products/led-580-rear-brake-unit (assuming they will fit, they look like they may be too tall).
Are you sure they are going to work and not give you blown bulb messages due to the lower current draw?
Sounds like the motor is weak or the flap is stiff then. If you can move the quadrant by hand from end to end that should be OK but bear in mind that the quadrant drives two cogs, one at the top and one at the front as well as a lever at the back. The blend motors are fairly easy to take apart and I've got one working again by spraying contact cleaner into the motor and hitting it with 12V in both directions so it drove both ways. With the lid off, the motor has two tabs that slot it onto the circuit board so it pulls out. When you put it back together, note that the main cog that drives the quadrant has an arrow on it as does the cog on the pot, they need to be lined up (a bit like timing marks).
When you first turn the ignition on and it does it's self test, you said the motor moves when dangling on it's cable but does it still move when attached to the flaps? I think you said it does. In which case, it is a lack of feedback so while it is moving the HEVAC isn't aware it is moving so thinks it has stalled.
Nanocom does get it's left and right messed up at times, so may be confusing the distribution motor with the left motor so reporting a fault on the wrong one. If the HEVAC has detected a fault on a blend motor it doesn't try to move it. Staying at 85% means it isn't moving, if it was you'd see it move from where it is to either 0% or 100% depending ion which you have told it to go to.
The other way of checking, is to use the Inputs - Values menu. That shows the current state of the feedback from each blend motor. So if you change the temperature settings from Lo to Hi, you'll see the position change. Same with the distribution motor if you change the airflow from floor to screen, you should see the % change. However, bear in mind the above, if it has detected a fault it may not try to move the motor so the feedback won't change.
That's more like it......
Use the Nanocom to check that it is seeing feedback. Go to HEVAC - Utilities - go to the second page and force the Distribution motor to 0%. While it moves it will show the feedback as a percentage and should go down to 0%. Then poke the button and change it to 100% and force again. You should see it move and the feedback should move from 0% to 100% (or 106% as mine shows which is a good trick if you can do it).
Take the distribution motor off the heater box so it is dangling on it's cable. You should have enough slack to be able to move it in front of the instrument cluster (assuming you've gone in that way), plug the instrument cluster back in and sit it in place. Hold the spindle on the blend motor and turn the ignition on. The system will do it's self test by moving all the motors and checking for a valid signal back from the feedback pot. Make sure it does turn. If it does, it isn't stalled but there's no feedback so the HEVAC doesn't know it is moving. If it doesn't, it's knackered.
Where are you finding the info on tyre and wheel sizes Clive? There used to be an excellent website, the wheel and tyre bible that had 4 pages of really useful information but it suddenly went all commercial and now has no useful info at all.
It does unless you have a cracked copy, in fact I don't think the current paid for version will work with something as old as the P38. The alternative is http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 which is basically Microcat online (and covers all models). Biggest difference is that with Microcat you can put in a VIN (or UK registration number) and it will only list parts fitted to a particular car, very useful when looking for parts for a diesel for instance and don't know which part number relates to a diesel and which to a petrol.
My wheels are the 7J x 16 Futura so the specified tyre size is 235/70R16, rather than the 8J that most of the other 16" wheels (and all of the 18") are. Even they look slightly oversize though. I must admit if I was buying tyres for 18" wheels, I'd definitely go for the Pros in standard recommended size.