That's how you should do it although when I've tried to post from Google Drive in the past it didn't work. Most now upload the pictures to Imgur.com and copy and paste the Direct Link from there.
They are for me. Just checked, they are Google photos, maybe they are location limited? Paul posted the same result and pictures on the dark side, maybe pictures from there will work for you https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/heater-core-temperature-sensor.57289/#post-2322902
No, it just goes a bit rubbery. Anyway, if your heater matrix inlet got up to 100C you've got more things to worry about.
I keep around 1/4 tank full in mine all the time. No danger of burning out the petrol pump by running it dry and enough to be able to use it in an emergency to get me to the next LPG station. Admittedly, I've worn out the track on the level sender around the 1/4 full mark so it sometimes reads nothing at all. Waiting for a slightly warmer day with no rain to fit the new pump I bought pre-lockdown.
For some perverse reason it always amuses me seeing the sign that says Wankum Ausfahrt. It also tells me that I'm almost into Holland.......
Yeah, it's mostly links to porn sites and garbage in Russian, predominately being posted in the early hours. So when I refresh my connection while drinking my first coffee of the day I see them and kill them then. The site does have a blocker to prevent someone registering without a valid email address and a couple of other hoops for them to jump through, but still some of them get through. If you look at the memberlist, you'll see an awful lot of registered members that have never posted anything. Some may be genuine and they are just a bit shy, but the ones with user names that don't seem like something a normal person would use, are invariably spammers that haven't posted anything yet. Gordon has a bit of a clearout every so often and deletes a few too.
Nothing comes up searching eBay for those numbers. Thought it might be because I'm using eBay.co.uk but tried .com and got the same. Full link might be good.
??? A P38 doesn't have a rear anti-roll bar. Unless it was an accessory maybe. I know you could get one for the Disco 1, but never seen one on a P38.
Most, like the 3 I banned this morning, start new threads that are in Russian, advertising for other sites or just plain garbage. It's very rare for a spammer to post in an existing thread. Due to the way the software for this site works, if I simply delete the thread, the main page shows no posts in that forum so I hide them, ban the poster, then go back and delete the post. There's been a couple recently that I've caught almost immediately they posted and are still shown as being logged in when I've banned them. I'm wondering what they see when they try to post another thread.....
Here you go, replacement switch complete with bulbs, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-MKII-Cruise-Control-Switch-Dashboard-94-To-02/333579015798, or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-Cruise-Control-Switch-Dash-Surround-94-To-02/303490972259 or if you want to be sure they work, brand now old stock https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMR4141-NEW-RANGE-ROVER-P38-CRUISE-CONTROL-SWITCH-UP-TO-WA410481/112960341590.
I can understand how someone of Irish decent must be feeling a bit miffed today. Never mind, a couple of large Jamesons or Bushmills is all you need. Threads, particularly this one, do drift, but then get back on track.
I've nothing to report other than having driven it about 20 miles. I've got jobs that I want to do but other things keep getting in the way, but will report on them when I get around to doing them. I now fully appreciate people that say that once they've retired they wonder how they ever found time to go to work.
JMCLuimni wrote:
There’s thread drift and then there’s this......
and does anyone care? Admittedly RRTH would have blown a gasket by now but he isn't here thankfully.
In case the Spanish authorities are nit-pickers, which I assume they are from what you have said in the past, you need to make sure you get EU LHD headlamps, not US ones.
Thinking about it, the Saab I had was a 900 (old style) and that had to be in reverse before the key would come out. Although it was a LHD, US spec car so that might explain it.
I had a Saab once with the ignition on the centre console and you could only take the key out if it was in neutral (I think), and a lot of Japanese cars have a button you have to push to allow you to turn the key fully off before it can be removed. But I've never known any other car that had any form of interlock, you turn the key off and take it out, irrespective of what gear it is in. I know most US cars with a manual gearbox won't let you start the car unless your foot is on the clutch though.
Orange ones are cheap enough https://www.lrdirect.com/STC1877-Bulb-And-Holder-Switches-Orange/, green ones are a bit steep though https://www.lrdirect.com/STC1878-Bulb-And-Holder-Switches-Green/
Already told you in your other thread. For the dashboard switches, green bulbs for the illumination are STC1878 while amber bulbs to show it is switched on is STC1877.
It's the same Red/White wire that feeds the illumination power to all the switches. So if one lights up and another doesn't, there's a break somewhere.
How are you testing the bulbs? I had to replace at least half of mine as they were blown. A squirt of contact cleaner on the contacts and in the hole the bulb fits into cleans them out nicely and makes them light up much brighter.
Dirty contacts on the bulbs or the plated strip that they run against. With the switch pulled out you should be able to twist the bulbs with a small screwdriver, work them back and forth and you should clean the contacts up. If the other switches light up with the sidelights on,then that one should too. If the ground was missing the cruise wouldn't work.