Could be you are right, or interference induced into the power line corrupts something, maybe try ferrites on the fridge power cables? I've had mine do the same, turn the key, nothing, check the gear lever, in Park but cycled it anyway, tried again and fired up without problem. Never noticed if the CEL is on or not though, it isn't the sort of thing you look at. Odd thing is, cycling the key won't cause it to send a sync code so if it was out of sync the first time it still will be. Maybe Relay 15 or 19 is getting tired and not immediately operating so the engine ECU isn't getting power?
Relay 15 not operating will give no CEL and also no ABS pump running. If it does it again, check if that is running which might give a clue.
O rings? Are you talking fuel pump in the tank or FIP on a diesel?
Onedrive works but only if you copy and paste the URL for the actual image not a link to the page the image is on.
Suitably edited except for you first links. The first is a URL to a web page so can't be embedded as a picture and the second one was the same link but trying to show it as a picture. I suspect you pasted the wrong link there.
Bolt, you are absolutely correct (see http://rrnet.gadsdenrovers.com/modelspecs/2002.html). I was only repeating misinformation from someone on the dark side. As the Borrego was a US only model, I (wrongly) assumed they knew what they were talking about.
AA yellow and Borrego Yellow have different paint codes too.
Not mine but Tom (tking88) bought his car to me yesterday. Fitted a window regulator, RH front height sensor, removed a lot of extra EAS pipework for a manual inflation system that had no many joints it was a leak waiting to happen, calibrated the EAS, fitted a diesel hot start box and had a look at all the things he'd been told needed doing. Rather than every ball joint on the front end needing replacing, only one had the tiniest bit of play (so little that most MoT testers wouldn't even notice it). The front air springs that allegedly were in dire need of being replaced are in better nick than the ones on my Ascot (and they were replaced two years ago) and the leaking rear axle seal looks more like brake fluid was spilt when the brakes were worked on and was a dark stain rather than a leak. Cleaned it off with brake cleaner and Tom is going to keep an eye on it but I don't expect it to come back.
So then we got stuck into some cosmetics. Changed the steering wheel for a refurbed wood and leather one, pulled the instrument cluster out and swapped the fuel gauge for one with a needle so he now knows how much fuel he has in it then got stuck in with fitting a Parrot hands free system which involved stuffing an awful lot of wiring behind the dash. If the Parrot loom had been 6 inches longer the unit could have been fitted neatly behind the knee panel but it isn't. Had a little problem with the radio after it was reconnected (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2202-alphinr-head-unit-unresponsive-last-known-settings) but that has cleared itself after it has been left overnight and it's now working as it should. Finally, fitted proper lightstone leather covered centre console sides in place of the grey ones that had been painted lightstone.
Like that. What you are doing is linking to the page that has the picture on it and not the picture itself. What I just did with your post was click the links to go to the page the images are on, then right click on the actual picture and select copy image location, then paste that in the pop up box.
I've done something similar but much less OE looking. I just glued an LED panel over the hole where the original 'candle in a jamjar' light had been. Works very well, the only problem being that I keep my toolbox on the LH side of the boot (where the sub and CD player would be if I had them) so I'm standing in my own shadow. One day I'll get around to getting another LED panel and fit it on the other side.
They call it AA yellow, probably because AA means nothing in the US. All you'd need over here is a beacon on the roof. Although the Borrego was also available in red.
Other than a respray, just routine maintenance really.....
But he's in the US (I assume), so anything can happen.
To add to this, as Tom has just left my place where the Parrot was fitted, the manual says to hold the UP button while turning the unit on. Doing that doesn't do anything but we both seem to recall that it has to be left for some time before it gets it's knickers untwisted. It was working perfectly, it was unpluggged and has been in this state since being plugged back in.
Continuing from your post on the dark side, pulling the sill locking knob up on either side won't do anything while it is out of sync and needing the EKA. The central locking has been disabled and until you find the fault with the drivers door and are able to enter the EKA, it won't be enabled again.
So after swapping outstations, passenger side works but drivers side still doesn't? There's a connector at the end of the rubber tube between the door and the rest of the car inside the door jamb. Try tracing back and see if you can find that and check it for corrosion.
Sounds about right. It needs the EKA but if there is a problem with the door outstation then nothing will be working on the door. Does the window and mirror work on the passenger door? Both front door outstations are powered from fuses 9 and 22, so if the passenger side isn't working either, then that would be the place to start. If the passenger side is working, try swapping the outstations over and see if the fault moves.
Keycode Lockout will clear after 30 minutes, what does the dash say then if you try to start the car? Or can't you get into the car (in which case, how do you know the window doesn't work?).
No, it can't be done. Auto Logic may be able to turn off what is under the heading 'Immobiliser' in The BeCM, just the same as a Nanocom, Faultmate and various other dedicated diagnostics can but all that does is turn off passive immobilisation not the immobiliser.
Have you had the door panel off to see if the wiring to the door latch is chaffed or is being caught (and grounded) by the window mechanism?
The MG TF latches are the same as the mid production P38. Early ones have a socket on the latch itself so the loom plugs straight into it, then you have the later ones from sometime in 96 where there is a flying lead with two plugs, an 8 way and a 2 way (with only one way used) and 2001 and later which have one larger connector. The MG ones have the two connectors on flying leads. So a LH latch from an MG will fit the drivers side on a LHD P38. No good for a RHD though as the LHD passenger latch only has 1 microswitch and not the 3 needed of a P38. A LH one from a LHD car is mirror image so you can't even swap the switches over.
Yes you can change the front bearing with the TC in place. Hardest part is breaking the RTV seal on the VC cover. Generally accepted method is once all 6 bolts are out, hit it with a hammer to twist it. There's even a couple of lugs that look like they were put there for that very reason. Problem with the circlips is that they are very strong, stronger than my recently purchased Machine Mart circlip pliers. The VC on mine took a bit of persuading to get it out of the bearing and I ended up putting the old nut on the shaft (as the Ashcroft seal and bearing kit comes with two new nuts too) and hitting it with a club hammer.
Mine is all back together now and flooring the throttle from standstill no longer gives me a skip. Even with two of us and a transmission lift, getting the TC back in is a real pig of a job.
You need a new drivers door latch if it is locking and unlocking itself while driving. I take it you are locking and unlocking with the key and not the fob?
I'll take a picture tomorrow, but the gearbox output shaft stays on the gearbox. It has external splines while the transfer case input shaft is a tube with internal splines that fits over it. Hence it is the outside of the transfer case input shaft that bears against the gearbox output oil seal.
No, couldn't be arsed...... Maybe I'll take some tomorrow when it is going back in.