I know they say you have a money back guarantee and assume this is down to the distance selling regulations. If "I don't like it" is a valid reason for getting your money back in full, it's cheaper than getting a hire car for a few days.......
Have a read of the description and note the badges. This guy should change his user name to Confused of Wales......
Manufacturers regard cars as white goods these days. I was talking to someone who works for Tata, not the car division thankfully, and he asked why I run a 20+ year old Range Rover when my local dealer would no doubt give me a good deal on a new or nearly new Evoque? I pointed out that the Evoque doesn't have a separate chassis, a V8 petrol engine that could be converted to LPG and can't tow 3.5 tonnes. He wandered off looking very puzzled. But it isn't as bad as people that buy a car through Cazoo or Cinch without having seen it or driven it......
It isn't only producing parts but it's also what they produce. I was told recently about someone that wanted a set of big end shells for a modern engine, a Ford I think, and was told you can't buy them. In fact, you can't buy any engine internals as the thinking is that if it is worn out you either buy a complete new engine or just scrap the car and buy a new one.
There is, 10 years. Manufacturers are legally obliged to provide support for 10 years from the last date a model is produced. So spares support for the P38 should have ended in 2012 but it's a testament to LRs commitment that they still support them.
It shouldn't drop in the first place. In this cold weather maybe an inch or so but should come back up immediately unless the reservoir isn't holding pressure.
That's low, I would expect it to drop but not below 10V to be quite honest. Maybe the starter is a bit poorly, you did mention it seems to have a flat spot.
StrangeRover wrote:
On the V8 yes but the diesel is harder to turn over, you've also got to account for the current draw from the glow plugs, which is a fair chunk.
Yes but don't forget that the glow plugs won't be affected by the CCA (Cranking Current Amps) figure, as they draw a lot but no more than 100A so would be affected by the Ah (Amp Hour) figure. So leaving the glow plugs powered for an hour would flatten a 100Ah battery but they aren't on for an hour. The CCA figure shows the maximum current it can supply for a short period which is dictated by the internal resistance of the battery. Land Rover specify a 664 battery for the diesel but that number relates to the AH figure and dimensions. A 664 should be rated at 110Ah, which it is, but the CCA from a 664 from different manufacturers varies between 680 and 750A with a 664SHD (Super Heavy Duty) being rated at 870A. So an MF31-750 is an exact match to what LR specify.
You know what they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.....
Might be marginal but it's still far better than a Halfords or similar generic battery. I wouldn't think the self levelling EAS would drain the battery that quickly, it only wakes up every 6 hours or so. My Ascot, with the same battery, was left for over 6 weeks and still fired up first turn.
I've got the MF31-1000 on my car and an MF31-750 on the Ascot, you can't get a better battery for a P38, so unlikely to be that.
Once the BeCM goes to sleep you should be looking at a current drain of no more than 20mA which would take well over 3 months to flatten a good battery. Using a high current clamp on meter isn't going to tell you anything, you need something that can measure much smaller current drain.
From your other thread it seems that your car has lived somewhere very damp and/or salty. All the underside had far more rust on it that any other car I've seen so it makes sense that the sunroof frame would also be rusted. I would think it's lived by the sea for most of it's life.
That's what he did, used the main bearing studs from the old engine. Just curious what the longer ones were there for. This one is definitely a 350 but slightly later than the one that was taken out. Chevy moved the dipstick from one side of the block to the other around 1980 and the sump has a bulge for it to fit so had to find a Corvette sump for a 1980 or later car as it wasn't possible to use the one that was on the 1979 engine that was taken out. At least the pistons go all the way to the top on the new one.
Check the battery voltage while the glow plugs are on and when cranking on the starter. That will tell you if the battery voltage is dropping too low when under load. Also clean the connections under the bolt of the battery terminal. I had a problem once where that connection was bad and by putting the clamp from jump leads on pressed against that connection so making it good.
A slight tangent, well quite a big one actually, but a question for Symes. Mate's son bought a C2 Corvette from the States only to find a busted exhaust valve spring so they pulled the heads. As well as naff all compression on the pot that had the broken spring, all the others seemed a bit low and they found that none of the pistons went all the way to the top so the engine had been put together with the wrong crank, rods or pistons. Rather than mess around with it, they bought a recon 350cu/in short block from a guy in Yorkshire who did marine engines. It came with extended studs on some main bearing caps that looked like they were for a baffle plate or something like that. Far too long to fit inside the sump so the question is, does the marinised small block Chevy have a very deep sump compared with the same engine when used in a car?
More likely it was due to running on Continental gas which is a Propane/Butane mix so you use slightly less and it was through Germany and Holland so decent roads, no hold ups and I was in no hurry so cruising at 65-70 and not my usual 75-80.
How much does it weigh? One of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ces340-340kg-engine-stand/ or one of these https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-ces680f-680kg-folding-engine-stand/. The fittings adjust so you can make it fit to the bellhousing bolt holes on just about any engine.
My tank takes 65 litres for a full fill and I get anything between 180-190 if used for short runs around town and 220 on a 75mph run. Best I've ever managed was 238.
Jeez, what hit that?
P38 are colour coded too. There's a bit of coloured tape around the cable, Grey on the distribution, Blue on Left and naff all on the Right.
There are odd occasions where there are faults that the Nanocom can read but doesn't bring up the book symbol. You can use the Nanocom to check that the blend motors are using all of their travel in the HEVAC - Utilities menu. You can command them to drive from one extreme to the other and watch them go from 0% to 100% (or 105% as one of mine shows). If they are moving over the full range then maybe you have a restriction or low flow through the heater matrix (LPG vaporiser plumbed in parallel if you have one?) so you are getting as much as it can supply but it doesn't have a lot in the first place. What value is the Nano showing for heater core temperature (HEVAC - Inputs - Values)?