Jeez, what hit that?

P38 are colour coded too. There's a bit of coloured tape around the cable, Grey on the distribution, Blue on Left and naff all on the Right.

There are odd occasions where there are faults that the Nanocom can read but doesn't bring up the book symbol. You can use the Nanocom to check that the blend motors are using all of their travel in the HEVAC - Utilities menu. You can command them to drive from one extreme to the other and watch them go from 0% to 100% (or 105% as one of mine shows). If they are moving over the full range then maybe you have a restriction or low flow through the heater matrix (LPG vaporiser plumbed in parallel if you have one?) so you are getting as much as it can supply but it doesn't have a lot in the first place. What value is the Nano showing for heater core temperature (HEVAC - Inputs - Values)?

Someone once told me a P38 will always have 3 faults so you should leave them because if you repair one, something else will fail and this time it might be something important.

DSE, being SE spec, should have the wiring, my ex-plod that was supplied with no buttons and no stereo still has the wiring. Yes, you do need an adapter of some sort. The P38 system uses what's called a resistive ladder network so pressing a button puts a resistance to ground on the wire, a different resistance for each one, 4.7k to ground causes the volume to go up, 15k to ground causes it to go down and a dead short to ground changes the mode. Later systems us a crude data system so the adapter converts the varying resistance from the steering wheel to the data that the aftermarket head unit needs, hence different settings for different makes. The adapter input will connect onto the Grey/Orange wire and ground while the output will go to the head unit.

If you have the headlights switched on and use the windscreen washers, the headlamp wash/wipe operates on every other use of the windscreen washers. Easy enough to test, switch the headlights on, poke the button to wash the screen then run round to the front to see if the headlamp washers and wipers are working. If they aren't, poke the screen wash button again and they should work second time.

karlos01 wrote:

yes London is all to do with emissions

No it isn't, it's all about raising money. If it was about emissions it would be the same as on the Continent, older cars simply can't enter the Cities. I've just paid €4.51 for a replacement French sticker, that means I can drive into the Cities as often as I like. If I had an older diesel and went into the Cities it's a €140 fine the first time and seizure of the vehicle the second.

how many RRs do you think would get the ULEZ charges 🤣🤣

All of them if built before 2006, which discounts the P38 completely. They need to meet Euro 4 if petrol (2006 onwards) or Euro 6 if diesel (2016 onwards) to be exempt from charge. However, it has been found that if you check the registration number for a 2001 or later 4.0 litre V8 P38 on the Transport for London website, it comes up as exempt from charging. It shouldn't, it's a mistake on their database so there's a loophole. A 4.6 comes up as chargeable and they are both Euro 2 so both should be. Before the ULEZ there was the T-Charge and there was a loophole in that one if you had an import. An import doesn't have the emissions standard or limits on the V5 so they didn't charge. When it changed to ULEZ, no information meant they would charge anyway, so that loophole was filled. I suspect the 2001 onwards 4.0 litre loophole will be plugged as soon as someone realises. They are losing out on income after all.....

Before I retired I was involved in a project to work out what the fleet of Kangoos was going to be replaced with. At that time, a further 21 Cities where proposing to introduce low emission zones in some form or another so my recommendation was that we went for petrol (as electric didn't give an acceptable range and nobody makes a self charging hybrid van). Bristol was one of the first places to announce it's proposals and that was to divide the centre into two zones with a total ban on diesels in the inner zone. As the vehicles need to go anywhere there is a problem, any restrictions weren't acceptable. The replacement of the Kangoos has been put back by a further year due to Covid and I've no idea what they are going for now although the last I heard was they were looking at the Citroen Berlingo/Peugeot Partner/Vauxhall Combo (which are all the same van with different badges) as it was the only medium sized van you could get with a petrol engine.

Yeah, before I retired earlier in the year I had to drive into London at least once a week in a 15 plate Renault Kangoo diesel so cost £12.50 a day because it was only Euro 4. Later ones are Euro 6 so are free and they only manage Euro 6 because they inject cow piss into the exhaust. What amused me was when I came to park. You get charged to drive into the zone and they then add extra onto the parking fee because you're running on diesel. I never worked out how what fuel you used when the engine was switched off and the van was parked could make a difference to the air quality.

What is you you send Paul? Customs get upset with certain descriptions and simply putting Car Parts isn't accepted for some reason, you have to put exactly what car parts you are sending.

They use a resistive ladder network with the value on a Grey/Orange wire to pin 3 on C226 . The other side of the resistors is grounded via the rotary coupler on the Purple/Black wire.

Nothing. You could put anti-seize if you like, it might make getting them out easier once the nuts have seized onto the studs so the whole stud unscrews. You could use lengths of M10 threaded rod or even M10 bolts if you wanted. Torque setting is in RAVE, Section 06, page 6, 22 ft/lb (or 30Nm if your torque wrench is in metric).

I've sent 3 of the Direnza alloy radiators to owners in the States. Even with the £105 shipping to the US they still worked out at just over half the price you can get an equivalent over there. If going for export you shouldn't pay the 20% VAT (tax) on the prices but if shipped to a UK address then you'll have to pay that then the carriage on top. US Customs don't charge any import duty on anything with a value of under $500. Customs declarations are pretty straightforward once you've done them a few times. The paperwork involved when I shipped a $90,000 Custom Chevy Camaro was a bit interesting though.

I've actually thought about trying to set something up with sending parts over. The sort of things that we can get here for next to nothing but cost a fortune from the US suppliers although it seems that just recently quite a number of owners over there have realised that ordering from the likes of LRDirect and Island 4x4 isn't difficult.

Definitely. They always suggest plumbing in parallel in case the particular vehicle controls the heater temperature by shutting off the flow to the heater matrix. Most modern cars, including the P38, have a full flow system where the heater temperature is controlled by directly the airflow through or around the heater matrix. In parallel the coolant will take the path of least resistance so may flow more through the vaporiser or the heater depending on which has the least resistance. When I bought my Classic it was plumbed in parallel and, as it was a single point system, would run on LPG from stone cold. Only problem was, in the winter after 300-400 yards it would die as the vaporiser turned into a block of ice. Obviously the heater was the path of least resistance, so I re-plumbed it in series and that cured that one. My P38 was also in parallel when I got it and when idling in traffic in winter the heater output would drop to vaguely lukewarm suggesting the vaporiser was the least resistive. Re-plumbed that one too and no problems with the heater or vaporiser.

The pipework on a GEMS is also much neater. My vaporiser is on the LHS next to the EAS box and my pipes are output from the inlet manifold to a 19-16mm reducer then 16mm pipe run under the ignition coils to the vaporiser. Output of the vaporiser is 16mm pipe run between the back of the inlet manifold and ignition coils to a 16-19mm adapter and a 90 degree bent hose to the inlet of the heater matrix. Outlet of the heater matrix then runs to the header tank as it should. Some have questioned whether this will reduce the heater output as the vaporiser will cool down the flow before it gets to it. It does but only by a few degrees so when the coolant temperature is at normal running (93 degrees in my case) the heater core temperature sensor reports around 80-85, so still plenty hot enough to heat the car on a frosty morning. On every car I've owned (or worked on) I've re-plumbed like this and never had any problems. There's also a lot less joints to leak.

You need to be able to copy the Direct Link, clicking the Copy button next to it doesn't copy it, it simply highlights it so you know which bit to copy. I just right click and select copy but no idea how you do that on an iPhone.

That's the difference between the French, Germans, Dutch, Belgians and UK. The first four charge you a small fee and as long as your car doesn't pollute too much (and all accept that LPG is a cleaner fuel than petrol even), they allow you to drive into the Cities. If it does pollute too much, they don't allow you in so the air pollution is reduced. Unlike the UK where you can drive any old clunker putting as much crap into the air as you like as long as you are prepared to pay the fee.

Currently, as Gordon who runs the forum is working on a picture upload method, you have to upload a picture to a hosting site (most use Imgur.com) and then link to it from here. There's a thread on how to do it https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1877-how-to-topic but no idea how to do it from an iPhone (mind you, I had one that my employers gave me and couldn't work out how to do most things.....).

Good job I haven't got a trip over the Channel coming up though. As the vignettes wouldn't come off I've had to order new ones. In the terms and conditions for both they say that if you lose or damage it you need to buy a new one. So I've just contributed 6 Euros to the German economy and 4.51 to the French.......

Looking at post 554 here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620?page=28, yes there is.......

I've actually heard of someone else mentioning this problem in the past but no idea if he ever found the cause.

Seems like I got the installer that knows what he is doing. I started off taking the side and bottom trims off so I could fit a new plenum filter while waiting for him to arrive. Bottom trim came off without breaking any of the spider clips (all bar one stayed on the plenum and not on the trim though) and I was surprised to find no build up of dirt and dead leaves under there either. Took the A pillar interior trims off too. Fitter turned up with a heated screen so that was a good start. Between us we managed to get the top trim off. The RAVE suggestion of using a credit card didn't work but we managed to release on of the clips at one end then slide the whole lot sideways. He wouldn't like to say if the screen had been replaced before or not but there was a lot of sealer at the top stopping the trim clips from sliding as they should. The only thing he couldn't do was get my ULEZ vignettes off the screen but as they are designed to not be removed that wasn't a surprise so I'll need to get new ones.

After the screen was in he even got me to start the car and put the screen heater on to make sure that was working as it should. Between us we put the top trim back by putting the clips onto the studs then pushing the trim down onto the clips. A couple of them broke when getting it off so I'll have to see if it rattles and if it does new clips are only a quid each. All in all, I'm happy with the job he did and he was happy for me to hang around watching what he did so that says to me he's confident in how he did it too.

They will only be loose if they weren't properly tightened up before. They are a bit of a bitch to get a socket on to which could explain it. To change the bolts you'll need to take the parking brake drum off (slacken off the 17mm headed adjuster on the back so it slides off) and the output shaft flange. The bolts push through the flange and are held in place with a big circlip. While it is off it's worth replacing the output flange oil seal as a parking drum full of ATF doesn't help with braking efficiency.