Yes, they never fitted one on the drivers side, just a couple of plastic blanks over the holes. Nothing to stop you getting a spare passenger side one and fitting it to the drivers side though. https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/125985/5497/grab_handle___mist_grey___headlining___p38_range_rover_

The important word here is capacity. Think of the battery as a bucket. Designer says it will use 1 litre per hour running and the alternator can put back a maximum of 1.5 litres per hour (V8 with 72 Ah battery and a 120 A alternator). If you have a 1 litre bucket and the alternator isn't working, the bucket will be empty after a hours running. With a working alternator it will always stay full. If you have a 2 litre bucket it'll run for longer before the bucket is empty but with the alternator working you'll still be taking the same amount out and putting the same back, you've just got more of an overhead in case the alternator isn't up to scratch.

That's what I was thinking, even the factory hinges on the Disco 1 droop. Admittedly that lower half is probably quite a bit lighter but I find the drop down tailgate to be very useful, it's a seat as well as a workbench.

All except for the first one, the others are showing now.

Just tried to edit the post so the pictures appear but they seem to be private and not accessible to anyone other than the owner.

If it's any consolation, when I first got my Classic, it needed to idle for a good 20 seconds before the oil pressure light went out if it had been left overnight. Admittedly that was down to the previous owner fitting a Britpart oil filter with no non-return valve so the entire contents of the oil filter would drain back to the sump. That was the previous generation engine with the non-priming pump too and it didn't suffer any untoward affects.

It's the biggest, most powerful battery you can get that will still fit in the space available. It's over-specced for the diesel (RAVE recommends a 107Ah battery) and well over for the V8 (where they recommend a 72Ah) but for something that needs the best battery you can get, it's better to have one too big than only just big enough. Someone, I think it was Tanis, fitted one to his diesel and reckoned he was going to contact DVLA and tell them he'd converted it to hybrid with the speed it cranked his over......

Hankook MF31-1000. Currently shown as out of stock at Battery Megastore but shown as in stock at Battery Factory see https://batteryfactory.co.uk/products/hankook-mf31-1000-643-644-heavy-duty-starter-battery-12v-ah115-cold-cranking-1000amps

You shouldn't need to pack the oil pump with Vaseline, that was only needed on the older Classic engine (the one with a distributor), the P38 engine has a self priming oil pump. It won't have done any harm thought but as Harv says, if you are just cranking it on the starter, it'll probably need more than 15 seconds from completely dry.

Clive603 wrote:

"they don't come apart mate". Really. Hold my beer!

Everything will come apart, it's whether it will go back together or not that is the bigger question......

Here you go, fill up from bottles https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/291650372278967/

Then get it to Simon to get it calibrated.......

You've been running on petrol haven't you? Either that or the inside of your engine was filthy and it's dragged all the carbon out. Mine isn't that black after 10,000 miles, it just goes a sort of darker reddish colour. Don't understand a top end noise when hot with thicker oil, I'd have expected that on thinner stuff.

Unless it is someone that knows the P38 diesel, it's better if you find someone that specialises in BMW diesels. It is a BMW engine after all.

StrangeRover wrote:

Never used S in the P38 to be fair, does it make any difference!

Of course it does, poke the button and you'll see the difference.

That sounds like the brushes are getting towards the end of their life and are sticking a bit until it has warmed up.

That's what I would call a result. Sling the Densos, give it a set of NGKs and a service and that should be the engine sorted. Then, as you say, de-pimp it. I've no idea why people think they look good but I can't stand black wheels, especially not on a black, or dark coloured, car. Black bodywork, black tyres so why try to make it look like it's been driven through a sheep dip full of black paint?

David, an interesting thread here https://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=16575, same car, same engine, similar problem but the cause isn't what you would expect.

It isn't whether the MAF is working or not, I've got two now that both give readings on the Nanocom that are around about correct. The Nano also displays the MAF voltage which, from memory, at idle was around 1V. It's how the Calculated Load Value is worked out and why is it so different to what RAVE says it should be. However, it seems that the figure I've got is almost identical to that shown on a GEMS document relating to the same engine installed in a Morgan. It's looking more like the figure given by OBD2 standard and displayed by the Nano, is calculated differently to how Land Rover calculate it.

It's GEMS, as the thread title says. Yes, IAV air passes through the MAF but the LPG vapour entering the airflow at the mixer between the MAF and throttle body doesn't. So in terms of volume of air the engine requires, the LPG vapour will be added to that volume. The only difference is that there's no petrol being injected and the additional vapour, that isn't being measured by the MAF sensor, is the fuel.

Thinking about it, after my previous checks seemed to show no difference between running on petrol or LPG, those figures were checked with it running on LPG. The engine is going to be sucking in the required volume of air but as I'm running a singlepoint, some of that volume will be the LPG vapour being drawn in between the MAF sensor and throttle body so not measured by the MAF. That might explain why the MAF reading is a touch lower than both RAVE and the Nanocom documentation says it should be.