No book is almost certainly down to new pots in the blend motors and giving the motors a clean and a blast of 12V in each direction, putting new brushes in the blowers and making sure everything moves nice and freely. Having a mate who is a mobile AC man helps too, as does jumpering the connections behind the RH kick panel as the feed to the AC compressor goes through that. I haven't had to have the heater box out as it seems fine but that may be because my car gets used almost ever day so the flaps are kept well exercised. I used to get the book on at odd times when I first got the car and the drivers blend motor would stick at one or other end of the travel. You could almost guarantee it would stick on full heat in the summer and full cold in the winter. After driving through France with the outside display showing -2, snow falling and sitting in a sleeping bag in an effort to keep my feet warm, I decided I really should do something about it. There's some things that seem like a minor inconvenience until one day you realise they need to move higher up the list of priorities.
I've ordered one of the interfaces so I can have a play. My Kenwood can take a remote input but my steering wheel doesn't have any buttons as the car was supplied to plod with no radio or cruise control. I'm looking for some very low profile pushbuttons that I can mount on the back of one of the spokes so I have a volume up and down on there. If the SW-RC1 can also be programmed to answer the phone, I'll add a third switch on the other side for that too. Just got to find some suitable switches now......
I had a near identical fail on an electrical socket on an engine I was working on yesterday. A speedboat came up at a price I couldn't refuse and I've been playing with that so it will be all ready to go when lockdown ends. Got a 40HP Evirude twin cylinder two stroke outboard on it which I fired up with the bottom end sitting in a dustbin full of water. Happy that it was running as it should after I'd cleaned the carbs and adjusted the throttle linkage, I switched it off and nothing happened, it carried on running. Stopped it by stuffing a rag in the air intake (you can't put an outboard into gear and stall it) and started looking at the diagram and tracing wiring. When switched off one wire to the engine is grounded so set about tracing that and found an inline connector that looked fine but I could stop the engine by wiggling it about. Cut it open and found the wire had broken inside the connector where it comes out of the terminal. Cut the connector open and attacked it with the soldering iron and heatshrink. Just glad it wasn't on the working side or I'd have spent days tracing wiring to work out why I had no sparks.
Yeah, the second one, the cheaper one, will work on any type of diesel. It's a single point so just has a venturi in the air intake and introduces the LPG there.
Although tanks are dated for a 10 year life, they are never checked here so many are much older. Underslung tanks can rot away in less time than that while a wheel well tank can last far longer. I've got one that is 15 years old that I took out of one car and it still looks like new. My car was converted in 2008 so I assume my tank is now 3 years out of date. The MoT test includes a brief look at the LPG system, the fuel system (irrespective of what type of fuel) is checked for leaks and security so on a converted car, both the petrol pipes and LPG pipework will be checked. If you've got a gas leak the tester will notice it anyway while he is under the car unless he's got no sense of smell.
If you have a high pressure pump capable of pumping liquid gas, you could use that but then you need somewhere to pump it to. Put it somewhere away from sources of ignition and with no holes in the ground or drains (as the vapour is heavier than air and will pool in them), a couple of long bits of wire onto the valve and connect a battery at a safe distance.
You can put white bulbs in but with the LEDs being that much brighter they look a sort of washed out red. Red behind the red looks right (or as right as LEDs ever can).
Not had a book on the HEVAC for at least 6 years, do it right, do it once......
You'd probably need this kit then https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/uncategorized/single-point-open-loop-induction-diesel-inj-f-e/
From my presence on LPGForum.co.uk, I know an LPG system in Oz costs a lot more than here so it will take much longer to save the initial outlay. A decent quality multipoint here will cost around £1500 to install, about half that if you buy the component parts and install it yourself but obviously, either way, you need to do the mileage to make it worthwhile. Or, you buy a car already converted, purchase price will be no different, somebody else has taken the hit on installation costs and you're into an immediate saving.
StrangeRovers 14mpg doesn't appear brilliant but with the price difference in fuels his cost equivalent price against running on petrol still makes his car cheaper to run than your 21mpg. Coupled with the fact that from my point of view, running LPG allows many European countries to categorise me the same as a hybrid for their low emission zones is a definite bonus and the cleaner burning fuel results in less wear in the engine too. What's not to like?
I'm paying 58p a litre compared with supermarket petrol at £1.10 a litre, or filling station petrol at £1.16 - £1.20 a litre, so half the price. So 14mpg on LPG gives the cost equivalent of 28mpg if I was running on petrol, about the same, if not less, than running a diesel.
Dunno on a Thor, on a GEMS it's on top of the LH shock mount. It's got a hose from the charcoal canister and another to the inlet manifold.
I've also had a very intermittent occurrence with mine where it would start as normal but not want to rev. After 20 or 30 seconds it would clear and run normally or if I switched off and restarted it would run normally too. I put that down to the purge valve sticking open and flooding the manifold with petrol vapour. As said though, it only did it very occasionally and hasn't done it now for a couple of years.
As Symes says' it could also be LPG leaking into the manifold so you have a very rich mixture when initially started. Try switching to petrol for the last half mile of the journey to use up any remaining LPG in the system.
The distribution quadrant is stiff compared to the others. The others are just moving a single flap and not at least 3 like the distribution flaps so it's going to be stiffer. Just how stiff is too stiff is a different matter though. There's a bodgers method of freeing them without taking the whole heater box out and stripping it down in post 25 here https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/photos-of-method-for-freeing-blend-flaps-with-s-t-screw.14322/page-2 (click on the thumbnail picture to see all of them).
The codes may have something to do with it. On a cold start the fuelling will be open loop initially to give time for the lambda sensors to heat up and start giving an output. It could be that the mixture is so far out that it doesn't want to run right. Have you tried resetting the adaptive values?
As Paul says, yes you can. As long as the instrument cluster is connected you won't offend anything.
Doesn't look too out of place either
I've got international breakdown cover, although I've never had to use it, but the last thing I want is to be sitting at the side of a motorway 1,000+ miles from home with a car that won't go for the lack of something I could easily carry with me. The starter because you can't tow or push start an auto so everything can be fine but if the starter has died, you ain't going anywhere. Same with the alternator, a lack of electrics and again, you are stuck. Coils fail without warning (as do crank position sensors and there's one of those in there too but I forgot to mention it). If I can't fix it at the side of the road a breakdown man wouldn't be able to either, but he would take me to a garage where I'd probably be waiting days for parts to be found and got to me.
Kenwood KDC-BT950DAB, https://kenwood-electronics.co.uk/car/rec/dab/KDC-BT950DAB/, I've got the predecessor to it and colour 18 is a perfect match for the HEVAC. The display is also dimmable at night time.
My cover has been cut into three pieces (not by me, it was like that when I got it). Once lengthways (front to back of the car) down the centre, so the right side stays put, then the left side has been cut in half crossways so I have a quarter size hatch that I can lift out to get to the stuff that is under there. There's a length of timber screwed to the underside of the right hand half for the two left hand halves to sit on so it is all flush when closed up.