That may be another nanny state NAS only things, like only being able to take it out of Park when you have the brakes on. I don't think a European one ever had that 'feature'.

They have screwdriver slots, adjust with a small, short, screwdriver.

1. Tighten the clip then
2. They often do, or, more likely, an engine oil leak is dripping onto the cooler pipe so it looks like it is leaking when it isn't.
3. Is it impossible to drive it in a straight line? If so, they are worn to excess, otherwise they may need changing in the next 20,000 miles or so.
4. Might need doing for the next MoT but most testers don't know how to check them so don't notice it.
5. It doesn't, or shouldn't, have a flexi joint. Can you hear an exhaust blow?
6. Oil seal, under a tenner, fitting time, under an hour.
7. and how do they know? If the can tell it is leaking, I would have expected them to tell you where from.
8. So? Someone has replaced a faulty calliper, do the brakes pull, if not, not worth mentioning. Carrier replaced almost certainly because the pin had seized but there's no reason to replace the calliper too.
9. Does it leak? If so, it needs replacing, if not, put it on the to-do list.
10. I assume that is the ball joint on the end of the drag link that attaches to the pitman arm. If so and it is bad, replace the drag link, not expensive.
11. Unless the EAS has gone into hard fault and dropped to the bumpstops, they've interrogated the EAS ECU and found a historic fault.
12. Does it pressurise the cooling system, spit all the coolant out and overheat? If no, it's BS.

In fact, I'd say most of it is BS because if it is as bad as they make out it will be almost impossible to drive or stop in a straight line. I reminds me very much of the MoT failure certificate I got with the Ascot when I bought that, it ran to 2 pages of faults. Most of them had appeared on the failures the previous year too. Every year the previous owner had taken it into the garage for the MoT, they'd failed it then charged him an arm and at least one leg to fix the faults and pass it. But it backfired on them and he decided to sell it as it was and cut his losses. I drove it home and it passed the MoT two days later. If I remember right, you're near London somewhere, wasn't a garage in the Battersea area by any chance was it?

I think it depends on which version of RAVE you are running. The full UK version that is on my iso only covers 3 models (P38, L322 up to 2005 and Defender) and includes an embedded version of Acrobat reader. That runs perfectly under Windows 10 64 bit. The only time it creates a problem is if I've got another document open in Acrobat (current version) it won't allow two different versions to run at the same time. I agree about Microcat though, that will only run on a 32 bit operating system no later than XP.

I've also got two more full CD versions, one for Disco 1, Freelander 1 and Classic and one with Disco 2, Freelander 2 and the Technical Service Bulletins.

The iso file is an image of a CD, so it can't be opened but must be burned to CD first. Then you will have a CD that will run RAVE from the CD or copy the entire CD to hard drive and run from there.

I think we are talking about something different. I assumed Goodridge teflon inner and stainless braided outer (although the ones you linked to are similar except for having a further layer of silicone on the outside). With the conditions you have I'd go for Kunifer with stainless fittings for the hard lines and use Goodridge flexible but the version with stainless, rather than plated steel, fittings on each end. That way you shouldn't get any problems with corrosion on any part of the system.

If it's out, it isn't any more difficult than it looks reading the overhaul manual. If I were doing it I'd hone the bores to get rid of any glaze and treat it to a set of piston rings and big end bearings. I'd pull a main bearing cap and see if there is any wear on that (unlikely unless it's been really neglected in the past) and, assuming there isn't, put it back. Treat it to a set of core plugs (dead easy with the engine out) while you are at it. If you get it right, you could end up with an engine that will be oil tight for a few weeks at least.....

The documents in RAVE are the actual paper manuals in pdf format. CARIN is publication LRL 0310, CARIN11 is publication LRL0325ENG - 2nd Edition and CARIN111 is publication LRL0325ENG - 3rd Edition.

The 15 minutes error does seem very strange though......

The full version of RAVE has the manual for CARIN, CARIN11 and CARIN111 under In-Car Entertainment. It uses the same standard constellation of 24 satellites as any other GPS system and they are still here. Admittedly there's other satellite systems up there which are used by some of the newer systems that are more accurate but the original system is accurate to within 100m (even with the US Government's deliberate error on location taken into account).

If you don't have the full version of RAVE, I've got an iso image of it in my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing

They will improve the braking as they flex less than OE rubber ones but still do flex a little so a long run would degrade braking.

But did you replace the entire run with braided or just the flexible hoses? The original suggestion was doing away with the hard metal lines completely and running flexible over the whole run.

If all the nuts torqued up properly, there's no reason the gaskets shouldn't last. Sounds like you've done a good job, well done.

Never played with one but I would have assumed it would take the date and time from the GPS signal? Is it just wrong or is it displaying the time from a different time zone?

Of course it gets hot, you are compressing air so the temperature will rise. Even a footpump will get hot if you are using it to blow up a tyre. The better the compressor is working the more heat it will generate. You only need worry if the motor is getting too hot. By too hot, I mean in excess of 90 degrees as the thermal cutout is rated to cut the power at 105 C.

I doubt it was gearbox overheat unless it did it just as you reached the top of the hill and came off the throttle so it cooled down immediately. You probably need to wait until the fault stays long enough for it to display on the message centre. Then you will at least know why it is beeping at you so can deal with that.

How much did you have to put in as it's only 200 ml from empty to full on the dipstick. So out of a full fill of 11 litres, a few millilitres is nothing.

I had that on the Ascot, 3 beeps, then another 3 beeps but nothing on the message centre. Then one day I got the 3 beeps and EAS Fault on the dash immediately followed by 3 beeps and it went off. At the same time the EAS height light went out then came back on. Problem was a dodgy connection in the multiway connector behind the LH kickpanel. Chopped the connector out and soldered and heatshrinked the wires.

One side of the three bulbs is connected directly to pins 14 and 4 (which are commoned on the pcb anyway) but that is a permanent supply, according to the ETM (E2 page 4) the other side of them is connected to the LCD display and, via a resistor, to pin 20 which connects to the HEVAC. I can't see putting power to pin 14 and grounding pin 20 doing any harm to anything else. HEVAC pins can tarnish and benefit from contact cleaner so it could be as simple as that. Mine would intermittently lose the ignition switched supply when I first got the car.

Don't forget though, the backlights for the message centre come on with the ignition while the other illumination comes on with the sidelights. I seem to remember someone having a broken track in the feed to the backlights at some time in the distant past and the fix is fairly easy. I'll pull my spare out from under the bench and stare at it closely in case the fix jumps out at me.......

I knew the question had been dealt with before, https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1259-heater-core-temperature-sensor?page=3. Seems a 22k Ohm NTC thermistor is what you need, so one of these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermistor-ics/1912279/ would probably work fine. You'd need to insulate the wires (or wrap a bit of tape around the pipe so the wires don't short together) and attach it with a tie wrap but at 81p each with 4 spares, it's got to be better than a 3 figure price.....