Bolt, for the Classic with the black plastic tank, if it has a screw cap and not a standard bayonet fitting pressure cap, then the cap incorporating a level sensor as fitted to later Classics will fit straight in. Part number for it is PRC7925 (https://www.lrdirect.com/PRC7925-Expansion-Tank-Sensor-Late-Rr/). Looking at LRCat, it appears that the earlier Classic had either a metal header tank with a bayonet pressure cap or the black plastic one with a screw cap. If you've got the screw cap all you need do it fit one of them and wire in a warning light (which my 93 Classic had as standard).

As for the P38, a catch tank on the overflow with a sensor is one option but that will only tell you there is a problem if coolant is being pressurised and blown out, not if you have a leak somewhere else and the level is dropping. I'd be wary of drilling a hole in the side of the header tank to fit a float switch in case I introduce a leak there and make matters worse. I'd rather find something that can detect the coolant level from outside, but not sure how yet. If the header was completely clear, shining a laser at the surface of the coolant would be a way to do it.

Don't see why anyone would object. Virtually all of us own a P38 (or more than one) but we've at least 2 Discovery owners and a few more with another LR as well as the P38. You've confirmed what I've been told though, L322 parts are a lot more expensive than P38 and with the complexity there's more of them. Avenger 4x4 are not far from me and they started off breaking Classics (before they started rocketing in value), then moved on to P38s and are now buying cheap L322s to break. Alan, the owner, reckons you can pick up what appears to be a tidy L322 for under 3 grand but it'll cost you twice that to get it back up to scratch unless you are really lucky.

You just aren't going to get a lot of help on here if you've got a problem though......

The one with two cogs should flash while the transfer box is changing from low to high and vice versa so should have been used. There are a couple of other blank spaces though.

Interesting, a UK spec car has a grab handle above the passenger door, not on the A pillar like the Discovery, and one each side that also have coat hooks above each rear door.. They are spring loaded so they sit flush with the headlining until you hang on them. They didn't fit one above the door on the drivers side, probably assuming the driver can haul himself into the car on the steering wheel, just a pair of plastic blanks to cover the holes in the headlining.

Don't you have one on the passenger side already, or is that something they missed off on EU spec? The actual handles have a hook to take the force of someone hanging on them, the screws just stop them from falling out.

While the door is 7 feet wide (and either 6' 6" or 7' high) a standard single garage in the UK is only 8' 6" wide. So once you managed to get in (after folding the door mirrors), there's not enough room to open the doors and get out! As for working on it, you've no chance, there's barely enough room to squeeze down the side of it let alone get around it to work.

Garage door opener was an option in the US. It may well have been here too but a standard UK size garage is too small for a P38. Standard width for a single garage is only 7 feet wide, so unlikely that many owners would have ordered one.

No idea who was the OEM but Borg Warner made the transfer case and the viscous in there seems to last pretty well. If that is anything to go by I'd be happy to fit a BW.

Yes, they never fitted one on the drivers side, just a couple of plastic blanks over the holes. Nothing to stop you getting a spare passenger side one and fitting it to the drivers side though. https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/125985/5497/grab_handle___mist_grey___headlining___p38_range_rover_

The important word here is capacity. Think of the battery as a bucket. Designer says it will use 1 litre per hour running and the alternator can put back a maximum of 1.5 litres per hour (V8 with 72 Ah battery and a 120 A alternator). If you have a 1 litre bucket and the alternator isn't working, the bucket will be empty after a hours running. With a working alternator it will always stay full. If you have a 2 litre bucket it'll run for longer before the bucket is empty but with the alternator working you'll still be taking the same amount out and putting the same back, you've just got more of an overhead in case the alternator isn't up to scratch.

That's what I was thinking, even the factory hinges on the Disco 1 droop. Admittedly that lower half is probably quite a bit lighter but I find the drop down tailgate to be very useful, it's a seat as well as a workbench.

All except for the first one, the others are showing now.

Just tried to edit the post so the pictures appear but they seem to be private and not accessible to anyone other than the owner.

If it's any consolation, when I first got my Classic, it needed to idle for a good 20 seconds before the oil pressure light went out if it had been left overnight. Admittedly that was down to the previous owner fitting a Britpart oil filter with no non-return valve so the entire contents of the oil filter would drain back to the sump. That was the previous generation engine with the non-priming pump too and it didn't suffer any untoward affects.

It's the biggest, most powerful battery you can get that will still fit in the space available. It's over-specced for the diesel (RAVE recommends a 107Ah battery) and well over for the V8 (where they recommend a 72Ah) but for something that needs the best battery you can get, it's better to have one too big than only just big enough. Someone, I think it was Tanis, fitted one to his diesel and reckoned he was going to contact DVLA and tell them he'd converted it to hybrid with the speed it cranked his over......

Hankook MF31-1000. Currently shown as out of stock at Battery Megastore but shown as in stock at Battery Factory see https://batteryfactory.co.uk/products/hankook-mf31-1000-643-644-heavy-duty-starter-battery-12v-ah115-cold-cranking-1000amps

You shouldn't need to pack the oil pump with Vaseline, that was only needed on the older Classic engine (the one with a distributor), the P38 engine has a self priming oil pump. It won't have done any harm thought but as Harv says, if you are just cranking it on the starter, it'll probably need more than 15 seconds from completely dry.

Clive603 wrote:

"they don't come apart mate". Really. Hold my beer!

Everything will come apart, it's whether it will go back together or not that is the bigger question......

Here you go, fill up from bottles https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/291650372278967/

Then get it to Simon to get it calibrated.......

You've been running on petrol haven't you? Either that or the inside of your engine was filthy and it's dragged all the carbon out. Mine isn't that black after 10,000 miles, it just goes a sort of darker reddish colour. Don't understand a top end noise when hot with thicker oil, I'd have expected that on thinner stuff.