Use the Nanocom to check that it is seeing feedback. Go to HEVAC - Utilities - go to the second page and force the Distribution motor to 0%. While it moves it will show the feedback as a percentage and should go down to 0%. Then poke the button and change it to 100% and force again. You should see it move and the feedback should move from 0% to 100% (or 106% as mine shows which is a good trick if you can do it).

Take the distribution motor off the heater box so it is dangling on it's cable. You should have enough slack to be able to move it in front of the instrument cluster (assuming you've gone in that way), plug the instrument cluster back in and sit it in place. Hold the spindle on the blend motor and turn the ignition on. The system will do it's self test by moving all the motors and checking for a valid signal back from the feedback pot. Make sure it does turn. If it does, it isn't stalled but there's no feedback so the HEVAC doesn't know it is moving. If it doesn't, it's knackered.

Where are you finding the info on tyre and wheel sizes Clive? There used to be an excellent website, the wheel and tyre bible that had 4 pages of really useful information but it suddenly went all commercial and now has no useful info at all.

It does unless you have a cracked copy, in fact I don't think the current paid for version will work with something as old as the P38. The alternative is http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 which is basically Microcat online (and covers all models). Biggest difference is that with Microcat you can put in a VIN (or UK registration number) and it will only list parts fitted to a particular car, very useful when looking for parts for a diesel for instance and don't know which part number relates to a diesel and which to a petrol.

My wheels are the 7J x 16 Futura so the specified tyre size is 235/70R16, rather than the 8J that most of the other 16" wheels (and all of the 18") are. Even they look slightly oversize though. I must admit if I was buying tyres for 18" wheels, I'd definitely go for the Pros in standard recommended size.

I don't think mine has ever been off since it came from the factory and I've no intention of trying to get it off either. The Ascot has the towbar and the swan neck and bolts are in the boot looking like they've never been used. I haven't looked at the markings but I suspect the bolts are not your average mild steel bolts from a hardware store. Microcat lists the swan neck as a separate part but not the bolts.

No, that's C243 that plugs into the cruise control ECU which you obviously don't have. The yellow one next to it would plug into the cruise inverter module. Mine is the same, no cruise but the plugs and wiring are there. The OBD socket is on the passenger side, right at the front near the bulkhead and next to the centre console.

Shouldn't be a problem if all the plugs are undone (which they will be if you are going to take the HEVAC unit out completely). If you set it at hot on both sides then pull the HEVAC, the blend motors will have driven the flaps to give maximum airflow through the matrix and they will stay there. You won't have any blowers working but ram air should still give you some heat when moving.

I'd say modify the Witter, at least then if anyone does check it, they will see the E marking on it. If your welding is decent, they might not realise it hasn't always been like that.

I'm confused, easy I know, but you say you can hear the fuel pump relay cut out after 17s yet you also say it doesn't run with the ignition in pos 2? Are you saying you can hear it over the noise of the starter cranking? You can often hear a relay click in but not drop out. Simon's suggestion is a possible too but if it is the fuel pump not running, then hot wire it. Run a wire from the fuel pump relay socket and put it on the battery positive (or put a jumper in place of the relay). Then you'll be able to run the pump before you try to start it. If it fires up immediately, it is a fuel pump problem, if it's just the same, it's something else.

It's an odd one as if the pressure was down or if there was a restriction, it wouldn't run normally once started.

No, GEMS has a filter and a return with a pressure regulator on the fuel rail, Thor doesn't other than in the fuel pump assembly itself and supplies fuel at a set constant pressure.

The rod fits into the hole to take the weight of the back of the unit but yes, normally there would be a conical rubber bush on it so it doesn't rattle. That's the right part number for the bush/bung whatever you want to call it.

Yeah well, it's in Monaco so it's gone for the Riva look.

Anything like this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-rover-P38-autobiography-convertible-/164516873201

No idea if it sold or just ended.

That depends entirely on what tyres you've got on it. Mine had Goodyear Wranglers and they were absolute crap on snow, TC kicking in every time I went to pull away, ABS clunking away no matter how gentle I was on the brakes and it wouldn't go round corners. That was 3 years ago just before I was driving it Latvia for new year and fitted a set of Vredestein Quatrac 5 on it. They are an All Season tyre but with a snow type tread pattern on the inside edge. I could feel the difference in the wet as soon as they went on and on snow in Estonia they were brilliant. They've now done 60,000 miles and are down to 3mm of tread but in the snow last weekend, even flooring the throttle didn't get the TC to kick in, brakes stopped it and it went where I pointed it. If it wasn't for lockdown I'd be fitting another set for another trip as many countries insist on a 3 peaks marking and a minimum of 4mm of tread in winter.

Sounds like there's parts forwarding opportunities in all directions.....

I went through the painting the forth bridge phase in the first 2 years of my ownership of mine, since then it's been mostly routine maintenance as and when required. OK, so some things go beyond the definition of maintenance but with my sort of mileage I'm expecting to have to do the more major jobs, but I haven't had anything I would class as a breakdown or anything that has stopped me from being able to use the car in over 5 years now.

Once you've got it apart, I'd use a PU adhesive like Tiger Seal to stick back together, that's what's used on windscreens. The last thing you want is a headlamp that fills up with water every time it rains.

About 12 years ago I had a need for something that could tow a loaded car trailer to the south of France and back regularly. I first thought about buying a doggy diesel Disco but as we had one at work and I'd driven it regularly, that meant I would have had to have the nice everyday car as well with two lots of MoT, tax and insurance. I'd previously been running a Saab on LPG and that was far preferable to going over to the dark side so I bought a Classic LSE, 4.2 V8 on LPG. That was good, towed superbly, but it was rotting away nicely and the original air suspension had been taken off and coils fitted so it sagged horribly when it had 3.5 tonnes hanging off the back. Decided I needed self levelling air suspension so bought my ex-police P38. Blown head gasket and a burst air spring but with LPG already fitted, I trailered it home behind the LSE and set to work. 11 years and a further 205,000 on the already high mileage and it is still my everyday car. I've driven it all over Europe, often with a trailer on the back, and, after many hours of work I've got it to the stage where I just get in it and drive it. My preparation for driving to the in-laws in Latvia in September was an oil and filter change and a set of spark plugs. The rear washer is the most troublesome part on the whole car and, despite blasting an airline through the pipe numerous times, it clogs up regularly. A couple of segments on the HEVAC display don't work when it is cold and I noticed a few days ago that my heated seat has stopped working again (passenger one still does so it keeps SWMBO happy). I don't reckon that's too bad for a 23 year old car with 411,900 miles on the clock (should hit 412,000 by the weekend despite lockdown). I doubt a modern one will ever get near that age or mileage before something terminal happens.