When we checked it when it was here, it was pressurising when hot, as you would expect, but the pressure went away when it cooled down suggesting it was purely, normal, thermal expansion. That would suggest a leak somewhere.
Lol! Had the opposite when I first got mine. Couldn't work out how to stop the rear wiper at a point where I could replace the wiper blade. Spent ages trying to pull the fuse or relay at just the right moment and failed dismally. Then read the manual.....
Looks like Marty's personal server has died, so I've just edited the post to put them back.
We had the car on a 2 post lift and taking it out was just two of us manhandling it. RAVE says to disconnect the gearchange cable too but with a suitable selection of extensions and universal joints, you can feed a socket up the side. To put it back we used a transmission jack after first strapping it to the jack with a ratchet strap so it sat at the correct angle. Transmission jack didn't go up high enough so we had to lower the car to meet it so we were sitting on the floor. Once it was close, a couple of M10 coach bolts could go into two of the easily accessible mounting holes so it could be slid back on those and the input shaft until the dowel pegs engaged and it was all ready to be bolted up.
+1 on diff. The torque when accelerating takes up the slack so it stays quiet.
I did mine a couple of weeks ago. The first time I heard it was in almost the exact same circumstances as you. Had a trailer weighing about 4.5 tonnes on the back going downhill in Low 2nd, the weight of the trailer started pushing me down the hill so I dropped it down to Low 1st and got a clack, clack from the transfer box. A couple of years and 40 odd thousand miles later it had reached the point where if I pulled away sharply, particularly on a slope, it would jump. Same if I put it into Sport and floored the throttle at 15 or 20 mph, it would do it too. I bought the same bits you suggest, chain plus the bearing and seal kit. Viscous will usually only fail if you abuse it, like running with only one propshaft connected but causing the chain to jump can cause the gearbox clutch to fail so ignoring it isn't a good idea. Try abusing it to see how bad it is, floor the throttle from standstill in Sport but don't do it too often. I found I was altering my driving style and pulling away gently before giving it some boot so it didn't do it.
Once the transfer case is off (definitely a two man job), it is reasonably straightforward if you follow the overhaul manual. When taking it off, RAVE says to remove the exhaust front pipe and to disconnect the parking brake cable inside the car. We left the exhaust in place (meaning you have to move the TC further back before lowering it down after it has cleared the exhaust) and disconnected the parking brake cable at the drum end. As well as the chain, my output shaft seal had started leaking so the parking brake was well lubricated with ATF and the front output shaft bearing was noisy. The bearing kit comes with 5 bearings but we only replaced the two output ones. There was no need to take the input shaft out and it's seal can be replaced with it in place so as it felt smooth and quiet, that one stayed in there. The two large bearings on the differential assembly were left as a, they were fine, and b, we couldn't work out how to get a puller on them to get them off! There was no wear on any of the shafts at all, so how you would have to abuse it to need an output shaft is beyond me.
One thing that caused an awful lot of head scratching was putting it back together. The overhaul manual says to put it in low ratio before putting it back and when you see how it works you can see why. But if you still have the range change motor in place, the two halves won't go back together as the shaft won't slot into place. The range change motor must be removed, the two halves put back together, then the shaft turning to put it into high before putting the motor back on. The other thing that RAVE says that you might miss as it is in the section on putting it back (I mean, once you get it out then putting it back is just the reverse so why would you need instructions on how to do that?). You are told you must always replace the gearbox output shaft seal whenever the TC is taken off. Ashcrofts don't list it as a separate item but they can supply it. I spoke to David Ashcroft who told me to order the output seal for a manual gearbox but put a note to say what you actually need is the output shaft seal for the auto, part number STC3100.
But not touched the radiator, very lucky indeed!
That's a good point. Do the spam posts get counted even though we delete them? In which case, we could hit 31,000 by morning.......
Is it the fifth birthday on the 29th or 30th? There was only one registered user, Gordon, on the 29th. It didn't get any more until 30th when Gordon's cat, me, Marty and Morat joined.
That's got it up to 29942.....
I'm going to need to do mine sooner or later. I've got a couple of segments that don't like the cold but wake up once the interior warms up (bit like me really). No doubt once it's warm enough to get out there and pull the HEVAC out, it'll be working fine so will get left until next winter.....
Ouch! The fan must have been cracked all along but I doubt you'll be able to find enough bits to have a good look at it.
Now it's Christmas, have a good one, or as good as your particular circumstances allow, everybody.
Yeah, we become a 4 as of Boxing Day too so that's screwed travelling for me too for a bit. My hose from compressor to condenser has started showing signs of leaking where the alloy pipe joins the hose so I've got one of those on the way and was intending to have a run over to his when it arrives. We could recover the gas, change the hose then vac and refill it but the restrictions mean I shouldn't drive over to him to do it.
There is a cure and Marty supplies what's known as a zebra strip to fix it but unfortunately he's working away in NZ at the moment so can't sell you one. He's supplied them to a number of other specialists who are selling them on (and no doubt adding their mark up on), such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233780270593. Marty's excellent instructions are here http://p38webshop.co.uk/RRdocs/P38%20HEVAC%20Pixel%20Fix%20v2.pdf
I also retired at the end of March (two weeks of working from home followed by just home.....) and my fuel consumption has gone through the roof. I can drive the car during the daytime rather than just in the evenings now. Went to the nearest bank that was still in my tier 2 area yesterday to pay a cheque in and ended up doing a 60 odd mile run because I can.....
The only time you would need to have the system flushed is if you had burnt out the old compressor so you need to get rid of the contaminated oil. A mate, who owns a soft dash Classic LSE and is the other half owner of the Vogue we've been returning to it's former glory, is a mobile AC engineer. You're a bit out of his normal area, but if you fancy a run up to Cambridgeshire (we're a tier 2 area), he'd be able to sort it for you.
Looks like mine will be much the same. Got plenty of booze in and more food than the freezer is capable of holding. Daughter and husband were supposed to be coming here but as they live in a tier 4 area, aren't allowed to travel the 4 miles into my tier 2 area (and as she works for the NHS has to be seen to be complying with the rules). So the plan was to postpone Christmas dinner until the 28th when Dina's daughter and her boyfriend come over from Holland. Although the ferry from the Hook of Holland to Harwich is still running and they would be allowed to enter the UK, all trains and buses have stopped in Holland so they can't get to it (and he doesn't drive). Then there is the further complication that her boyfriend has booked 2 weeks off work to come here but doesn't know yet when he would be allowed to go back home. So step daughter's return home and his visit has been postponed too. So there will be two of us with a Christmas dinner for 4-6 which will be eaten over a period of days at some time before it reaches it's best before date.
Fortunately alcohol doesn't go off so, like Morat, we will be having a very merry Christmas. Hope most of you have a better time and here's to next year.
You need the wheels setting straight and the drag link adjusting so the notches on the steering box are aligned and the steering wheel are straight. With it in the air will make adjusting the drag link easier (more room to swing on it) but there won't be any resistance to stop the wheels from turning rather than the steering box moving in relation to the wheels. It's probably best to free off the drag link with it in the air, then do the adjustments with the wheels on the ground.
Well done but it's a good job your coffee cup has a good lid on it or you'd be wondering where the puddle in the passenger footwell came from.....
I doubt you've lost any balls, most likely the cage broke up and fell out so the balls all ended up on one side. Had that happen to an alternator bearing many years ago (on an old Talbot) and ended up chopping bits of nylon off a tie wrap and jamming them in between the balls to keep them spaced out around the bearing. Lasted about 400 miles which would have been good had I not been 700 miles from home at the time......