My original fusebox started playing up years ago so I pulled it apart and gave it a going over, soldering any dodgy looking joints and putting wire links on any tracks that looked to have been getting warm. It was fine for 5 years or so but then one of the spade contacts for the petrol pump relay went intermittent. Ordinarily it fires up on petrol then almost immediately switches over to LPG but fortunately I can start on LPG. As a temporary fix I ran a wire from the engine ECU directly to the relay so bypassing the connection in the fusebox but replaced the fusebox not long after.

This thread seems to deal with it https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/dreaded-p1412-code-67729/

P1412 didn't appear on my list of codes but as it relates to the SIA system which only NAS cars have, it isn't something we'd find normally.

Looks about right if it is as good as the ad says.

There's a couple more in the Car and Classic auction.

Don't know how it works coming this way, but I've bought a couple of Direnza alloy radiators for people in the US as Direnza won't ship overseas. Carriage on those was around £100 and US Customs don't charge any duty on anything with a value under $500. Even though the buyers had to pay the VAT as they were being sent to me and then forwarded on, they still worked out at about half the price of anything similar available in the US.

Failing CPS would explain why it is intermittent and also why it will try to fire but not catch. If it was out of sync, it just wouldn't try.

I'd be inclined to sit them on a socket and attack them with a ball pein hammer. Then they will be dished......

Sounds good and looks like you've covered everything. Only comment I have is that I attempted to change the rear trailing arm bushes but even with the weight of the car on the end of the breaker bar, I still couldn't undo the bolts so gave up. Doing the front end will make one hell of a difference though.

The Jaguar Land Rover Classic section has been set up fairly recently and are supplying parts for older cars, in recognition that there's some of us out here that don't want to spend lots of money on a new one and are keeping the older ones alive. Some parts they are now remanufacturing, others may well be stuff they've had in stock for years.

If you've unscrewed the blend motor and checked the movement on the actual flaps and it appears that they are moving over the full range, it could be the feedback pot in the blend motor has a dead spot at one end. If you use your (un-named) diagnostic to look at the signal being returned from the motor while causing it to move from one end of the travel to the other, you may well find that is moves smoothly up to a point then stops. You may be able to sort it by pulling the blend motor apart and filling the pot with switch cleaner.

Blimey, I bet that won't work with Marshalls in Peterborough......

That'll make it easier to plug into, no grovelling in the passenger footwell.

That's how it's supposed to look, the bag rolls over itself onto the base. Bumpstop looks well squashed though or that might just be the angle the photo was taken from.

By Duckworths do you mean the LR main dealer in Boston?

If you can hear it running, make sure the washers on the mounts are the right way up. They are dished and want the bottom ones convex side up and the top ones convex side down.

Don't forget that a decent pump will run hotter than a knackered one. Not only will the motor run hotter as it is having to work harder, compressing the air will cause the air to heat up too.

You're right there. I took mine in for MoT a few weeks ago, he did the emissions test first, then put it on the ramp. Opened the bonnet and the first thing he noticed was a shiny new intermediate steering column and as soon as it was up in the air, a new drag link too. From that point on, it was more a cursory look round as he knows that I will always sort anything it needs when it needs it not just when it's MoT time. The fact that it was showing just over 400,000 miles and I'd already told him I'd got the best part of 6,000 miles to do in the next month meant he knew that I thought everything was OK.

Air hose entry is just a collet and pair of O rings the same as on the valve block and air springs. Isn't the bolt just a bolt?

Also, whether this is something that varied with the market or not I don't know, but a soft dash LSE over here would have had the Brooklands style bumpers and not the chrome ones like on that. Must admit it's very nice and would fetch decent money. Over here you'd be looking at maybe 40k max?

I'd be inclined to wirebrush it and paint it. If it starts to leak at some point in the future, deal with it then. Yes, it's a pressure vessel but only holds 10 bar so not like it's going to explode, just hiss a bit if it starts to leak.

I remember reading a report once years ago, after the Lancia rust problem came out. It seems that in those days car manufacturers were using reclaimed steel for body panels. Someone sent a brand new Alfa body panel to a laboratory who tested it and found it was something like 80% ferric oxide so no matter how much protection you put on the outsides of the panel, it would still rust as the rust was already in it.

On a DS21 Citroen I owned I spent days welding an old filing cabinet into the underside. The sills were square section about 6 inches square and the bottom would rot out on them. I plated all the bottom and outer sills and even bolted through and put L sections on the inside where it joined the floor. The fuel tank lived under the back seat so that had to come out while I was doing the welding and after I'd finished it, put the fuel tank in but didn't bother with the rear seat. Drove it down for MoT which it sailed through only to notice on the way home that the C pillars were wobbling around from side to side. It was only the back seat that was stopping the back end from waving around in the breeze! The join between the C pillars and sill sections had rotted away too. Fortunately all the outer panels on a DS were bolted on and the VIN plate was held on with self tappers. So I bought another that had rotten outer panels (and had been treated to a silver Hammerite, brushed on, paint job) and swapped the VIN plate, number plates and all outer panels from one shell to the other. Kept the old VIN plate in the glovebox in case I needed to buy any spares as on was a DS21 carb and the other was a DS23EFi........

We had a Disco 1 at work from brand new and as it had a 10m telescopic Clark mast on the roof, it was a bit top heavy. At the time LR did a rear anti roll bar as an option and we had that fitted which made a hell of a difference to the amount it rolled on corners. Still didn't stop one guy from rolling one though which resulted in H&S recommending that everyone that drove one got sent to Solihull to do an off road driving course. Not one of us complained, I'd have happily paid to do that course.....

The Disco 1 was replaced with a TD5 D2 when the time came and that had ACE fitted. Not sure if it made any difference to the roll, I thought it only supplemented the springs to give self levelling?