It's Nationwide Windscreen Services, so the first one. Not only will I be there the car is parked in front of the garage with a CCTV camera looking straight at it. I'll move Dina's Merc so they can park their van next to mine and then that will be in full view of the camera too. I'd better clean the cobwebs off the lens before they get here.....

Oh dear, just noticed it's being done by the same bunch that did Sloth's here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1015-nationwide-motorglass-i-have-no-words. Not a good score on Trustpilot either, more negatives than positives, but one of the excellent reviews mentions the Huntingdon depot which is the depot that called me. I don't think the company makes that much difference in all honesty, some fitters are good others aren't.

The condenser fans don't shift enough air to be of any use. Sloth put an electric fan on his car and did a write up on it a while ago, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/534-v8-electric-fan-conversion on a V8 but shouldn't be any different.

Phoned insurance company this morning, they took all the details and said they would pass it onto the local depot who would call me. Within a couple of seconds of speaking to them I got a text from Nationwide Windscreens who called me a couple of hours later. "Range Rover needing a windscreen?", "Yes", "would you like it doing tomorrow?", "Yes, if you can", "it isn't heated is it?", "Yes, it's a Pilkington Optikool heated screen", "Oh"......

We'll have to wait and see what happens tomorrow now.

As I don't use the ashtray but do use the fag lighter socket, I've got a pair of USB charge sockets in the ashtray itself powered from the underside of the lighter socket. I've also fitted another lighter socket on the side of the centre console which powers the sat nav and dashcam and another on the back of the centre console below the rear passenger vents for anything else. You can never have too many power points. Now you've got to sort out the book on the HEVAC.....

There's a connector behind the knee panel on the drivers side, that one is a prime candidate for the contact cleaner or soldering iron. Maybe you disturbed it while you were under there?

You've got the front air springs already so you may as well change them. Rears tend to go first in my experience so I suspect they've already been done and the fronts are the originals (but are still pretty good). There's the one ball joint on the drag link arm that has a tiny bit of play in it and Chris is lined up to do the top and bottom ball joints already, so that's them sorted. Hub seals rarely leak unless the hubs have been off so leave them until they start to leak. Discs and pads when the time for new pads comes. Can't really comment on the stat, water pump and viscous on a diesel, so wait for someone else to reply on them. Suspension bushes could be done at the same time as the ball joints and a coolant flush wouldn't do any harm.

Heater core O rings have been done at some time in the past, the holes in the console sides were there when we had it apart to fit the Parrot and attacking the propshaft UJ's with a grease gun is supposed to be done far more regularly than anyone ever does it.

Changing the auto box filter and fluid is worth doing but it was too bloody cold when you were here last month!

Nice one, what did you do with the brakes? You don't normally get too much travel when they need bleeding.

A spring loaded centre punch will cause what looks like a stone chip which will every easily turn into a crack. I considered it on mine but the concern about how well the replacement is fitted meant I'd rather stick with the one in there that doesn't leak and fits properly. I've also got French and German ULEZ vignettes stuck on my windscreen and they are both the type of stickers that won't come off in one piece so I'd probably need to get replacements for those too.

Not necessarily, the rules mean you have to have an export document but because we are still in the single market, there's no duty to pay on cars moving between UK and EU. Or, to be more accurate, there is duty payable on a used car but it is rated at 0% hence the need for the export document. I work on around 60p per mile so my costs for a 2,000 mile round trip is £1200 but I normally arrange a return load to halve the costs.

The main problem we have at the moment is down to the Covid lockdown rules. Only what are considered essential journeys should be made so for an individual that means going shopping for food, medication, etc. But you are also allowed to travel for work (if you are unable to work from home) so a transport driver is making a journey for his work.

You'll have two power supplies, a permanent live and an ignition switched which will both have been on the one DIN connector into the original head unit. Although they should all be wired the same it isn't unknown for them to be reversed on some cars/head units. It sounds like you have permanent and ignition switched reversed.

Looks much better and probably much easier than taking them off, doing the prep and painting them.. I had a thought about the transport situation as I've been asked about collecting 40 stacking chairs from somewhere just north of Glasgow. I can, as a transport driver, go there, pick them up and bring them back. But I couldn't if they were for me as that wouldn't be an essential journey. Bit bonkers really......

I'm going to leave it until Monday before booking it so if the crack spreads it isn't really that important, it's not like it's going to fall out. I may well have a 200 mile journey to do on Sunday morning anyway so it won't surprise me if I've got a two piece screen by then. There's a £100 excess on the insurance so it's going to cost me that for a £500+ screen. Wiper blades were new Bosch ones not that long ago but since fitting them I spent a week near the Baltic Sea and they suffered a bit from airborne sand so could do with replacing again anyway.

I'm more concerned about getting it fitted properly than anything else.

Don't know who will do the job, I have to phone the insurance company and it is arranged through them. I'm going to insist on a like for like replacement so as it has a Pilkington heated screen in it at the moment, that's what I expect it to be replaced with. I've seen some of the bad experiences others have had when screens have been replaced so will keep an eye on how it is done. I had two screens fitted at home on my works van. The guy that did the first one was really chatty, knew what he was doing and was quite happy with me being there while he did it. The second guy didn't want me there and did a really crap job.....

It spread about another 4 inches in the drive back from shopping and almost certainly will continue. Just checked the weather forecast and Tuesday/Wednesday next week should be up to 10-11 degrees so I'll call on Monday and see if it can be done then when it's warmer. I'd rather take it in and have it done but that would involve a lot of hanging around and probably a "go and wait in the waiting room sir". On the other hand, if it's done at home I'll be able to keep an eye on what is being done and replace the plenum filter while it's off too.

Not a bad idea. I figured that fitting a screen when it's cold has the potential to end up with a donmac type bond. As I don't have any water leaks at the moment, and haven't had since I've owned the car, I'd rather not introduce any.

Went out for a bit of (essential) shopping earlier and as I pulled into the supermarket I heard a little pop, looked down and saw this had appeared.

A few weeks ago I heard something hit the screen but didn't notice an extra stone chip (in addition to the 3 or 4 that I already have). Seems that I didn't notice it as it was obscured by my sat nav mount and it had decided to change from a stone chip to a crack.

I've got windscreen cover on the insurance so that isn't a problem and the heated screen has only worked in odd strips for a long time so a new screen will be a bonus. Wondering if it will be better to leave it until the weather is a bit warmer before getting it done, any thoughts?

Disco 1 and later Classic used the same tank so the one I linked to will fit your header tank on the Classic.

I worked on the same principle when I bought a Britpart AC condenser. It was very cheap, in stock and came with a two year warranty. If I got less than two years out of it, getting a replacement under warranty and changing it wasn't a huge job and if I got more than two years out of it, it was a bargain.

I was recently talking to a trade customer of Britpart and it seems they have been taken over by a larger parent company. They are, allegedly, working hard to counter the reputation they have and dropping the sub standard parts and replacing them with a lot of OE parts. Apparently the Britpart XS range of brake components are OE.

Bolt, for the Classic with the black plastic tank, if it has a screw cap and not a standard bayonet fitting pressure cap, then the cap incorporating a level sensor as fitted to later Classics will fit straight in. Part number for it is PRC7925 (https://www.lrdirect.com/PRC7925-Expansion-Tank-Sensor-Late-Rr/). Looking at LRCat, it appears that the earlier Classic had either a metal header tank with a bayonet pressure cap or the black plastic one with a screw cap. If you've got the screw cap all you need do it fit one of them and wire in a warning light (which my 93 Classic had as standard).

As for the P38, a catch tank on the overflow with a sensor is one option but that will only tell you there is a problem if coolant is being pressurised and blown out, not if you have a leak somewhere else and the level is dropping. I'd be wary of drilling a hole in the side of the header tank to fit a float switch in case I introduce a leak there and make matters worse. I'd rather find something that can detect the coolant level from outside, but not sure how yet. If the header was completely clear, shining a laser at the surface of the coolant would be a way to do it.