Is the LCD not displaying anything or is it just not illuminated? If it is the backlight bulbs, you should be able to see the display if you shine a bright torch across it. If it is lit with the ignition on, then the backlights are OK but it may not have a display. See the second pic in my post here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2091-dashboard-cluster and you can see the ribbon cable that connects the LCD unit to the main pcb. Simple enough to get at, all you need do is pop the translucent back cover off.

The small green and amber bulbs go in the switches, the row above the clock with the front and rear foglight switches, the cruise switch, the hazard switch and the EAS switch and rocker. They push out from behind so you need to take the centre console side panels off, the knee panel and the instrument cluster surround to get to the screws around the outside that holds it in place. Pull it forward and push the switches out from behind.. The HEVAC needs clear bulbs as it has green screens in there and the set I linked to has the lot. The bulb in a green holder is a higher wattage and goes behind the display to light it up. While you've got the side panels off, there's two screws on either side of the HEVAC. Take them out and tilt it so the top comes forward and clear, then you can pull the whole thing forward and out far enough to unplug the connectors to it.

Found your way here then Paul, welcome.

Already told you in your other thread.

For the dashboard switches, green bulbs for the illumination are STC1878 while amber bulbs to show it is switched on is STC1877. The amber lights behind the heated windscreen a heated rear window switches to show they are switched on are actually surface mounted lights on the main printed circuit board of the HEVAC and don't ever seem to fail. The backlight bulbs can and do but you can get a set of replacement bulbs, see https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/bulb-heater-control-unit-jfc102550b-p-4953.html

As said, skim the minimum off the heads to get them flat. Take the valves out, clean the carbon off the top of the heads and give the seats a gentle lapping with grinding paste. Check for wear in the guides. Unless a lot has to be skimmed of the heads, it's unlikely that you'll need to shim the rocker pedestals but it's easy enough to check (see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml). I'd also go for head studs as you've no way of knowing if the replacement head bolts will stretch as the original spec called for.

I've been there a couple of times. A mate's parent's used to own a former shepherds cottage near Brough that was used as a holiday home by friends and family. Most interesting time was looking down on a pair of RAF Tornados flying through the valley.....

Front or rear? Front https://www.lrdirect.com/STC2786-Sensor-Abs-New-Rr-Front/, rear for an early car https://www.lrdirect.com/STC2787-Sensor-Abs/, rear for later one, https://www.lrdirect.com/STC3385-Sensor-Abs/. Only differences are the lengths of the cables though, so you can use any if you don't mind cutting, soldering and heatshrinking the joins.

99 plate but GEMS? Must be one that sat around for a while before it was registered, or, as an Autobiography, whoever ordered it ordered a strange combination and it took them a long time to build it. Isn't Barnard Castle where people go for eye tests?

There isn't a dash light, I mean the light in the switch, the indicator light, which you said does come on.

The on/off switch on the dash is connected directly to the BeCM so when the switch is on, a signal from the BeCM turns the light on. Presumably if cruise isn't enabled in the BeCM it won't light up. The ECU and Inverter/Controller are powered with the light on the switch so if it is on, they are powered. They are connected through the rotary coupler to the steering wheel buttons. I understand the ECU on an early car can die on you, so that might be the problem.

Welcome. No matter how good they are, they will all have the odd little problem, if they didn't the previous owner wouldn't have sold them. There's nothing that is beyond the average mechanically minded owner though. What is it you've bought?

It isn't a relay, it's an Inverter/Controller. Beneath the air vent there's that and the ECU, both aren't interchangeable with anything else on the car.

Probably, but you'd need diagnostics to look at the settings to be sure. If the switches are fitted it would have had it originally so it either isn't enabled or it isn't working so you need to be able to work out which.

BeCM has to know that it is fitted or it won't try to engage it, so if it has been changed and cruise isn't enabled, it won't work.

Ahh, diesel. You won't have the actuator, it's done by controlling the fuel injection pump, all electronic. No idea how it works or what goes wrong.

Grease the mechanism.

You should have a couple of smallish boxes behind the dash on the RHS and a vacuum actuator behind the EAS box under the bonnet with a cable to the throttle linkage. Only cars fitted with cruise had the dashboard button and buttons on the steering wheel.

How the hell did CurtisBop re-register and post his same crap again?

Odd one, I've had Unable to connect to ECU and that can usually be sorted with a squirt of contact cleaner in the OBD port and I've had the Nano freeze on me so I've had to unplug it and plug it back in but never had it reboot. I would suspect water in a height sensor or connection if it was that wet and the fault would be caused by the ECU seeing an implausible signal from the sensor. As they are under the car a lot more likely than the other connections to get wet.