5W?? How cold does it get where you are? 5W is recommended for areas when it gets down to -35C. Lubrication chart recommends 10W-40, 50 and 60 for an ambient range of -20 to +55C. 5W oils are only recommended for modern engines and even then only specified by manufacturers to get the best possible economy figures, sod all to do with engine longevity. I've been running 10W-60 since the rebuilt engine went in 130k ago on the recommendation of V8 Developments and it seems to get better for every 10k I put on it. Remember, it's an engine designed in the 1960s when oil was 20W-50. I once drove a V12 Jag of similar vintage that had been filled with 5W-30. After 100 miles it had zero oil pressure at idle and at best it could hit 10psi when running. Older design engines want thick, gloopy oil, not piss water.
I reckon an exhaust is dead easy with the suspension on high. But I must admit, having spent years working under cars, either a P38 with the suspension on high or anything else on ramps or axle stands, taking off and putting back my transfer case last week with the car up in the air I thought was far more uncomfortable than with it on the ground. Working with my hands above my head is a lot more comfortable when laying down than standing up.....
Dedicated picture hosting was something Gordon has been meaning to look into for a while so you can upload directly to the site. Maybe a lockdown Christmas will give him time to do it (although as he recently became a father, maybe not....).
I recently installed one of Marty's DSP amp replacements and it works superbly however, it got me to thinking. While the door amps are fairly easy to get hold of, the plugs aren't so easy unless you can find a scrap P38 and chop the wiring off. Sooner or later supplies will dry up of both and, while the door amps are still available new, they are ridiculously expensive. So it made me wonder if there is an alternative way of doing it? The amps are just that, amps, but with a built in crossover so have two outputs, one for bass and one for mid/treble. I wasn't able to find a cheap and cheerful amp with crossover but could find amps and crossovers available for not much money at all.
I will stress that I haven't built one of these, and don't have a car with DSP to use for testing, but I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. If I could lay my hands on a dead DSP amp it would be worth pulling the socket off it to make up a system that could simply be plugged in as a replacement saving an awful lot of time with soldering iron and heat shrink tubing.
I would propose using a couple of TDA7492 based amp units such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-50W-TDA7492-D-Class-High-Power-Digital-Amplifier-Board-Module/163019456498 feeding into 4 of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120W-Adjust-Treble-Bass-2-Way-HiFi-Speaker-Frequency-Divider-Crossover-Filter-es/264933727526 or similar. The attenuators may be needed if feeding it with an original head unit but the TDA7492 chip does have variable gain so it might just need the gain turning down. If you are feeding it from an aftermarket head unit with line level outputs, then they won't be needed or if feeding from a speaker output level the amps won't be needed, just the crossovers. If using amps, there is a 12V supply (that originally powered the DSP amp) and a turn on signal from the head unit available at the DSP amp connector so with the addition of a relay the amps would only be powered when the head unit was switched on.
I intended doing a complete write up for someone on RR.net but after the owners removed all the useful information on there I didn't feel inclined to start building it up again. So I've sent the following to the OP by PM and are publishing it here instead. This applies to a situation where the head unit is also being replaced with an aftermarket one so only deals with speakers and crossovers, not the amps, but if it was to be installed as a replacement for the DSP and retaining the OE head unit, then a pair of amps would need to be added before the crossovers.
If you are going to install an aftermarket head unit, you won’t need to replace the DSP amp with separate ones, you just need to link the wiring through at the DSP amp plug. Feeds from the radio all went to the DSP amp and the wiring to the speakers comes from there.
Your aftermarket head unit will have connections for the following:
Permanent power – connect to Purple wire on Pin 4 of C0098 (Grey 8 way connector)
Ignition switched power – connect to White/Pink on Pin 7 of C0098
Illumination – Connect to Red/White on Pin 6 on C0098
Ground – Connect to Black on Pin 8 of C0098
Turn on signal (often marked as for an electric aerial) - Connect to Grey/Black on C0098 (only needed if you intend installing amps)
It will also have the following outputs:
Left Front +ve and –ve – Connect to Yellow and Yellow/Black on pins 5 and 6 on C0092 (Brown 8 way connector)
Right Front +ve and –ve – Connect to Red and Red/Black on pins 3 and 4 on C0092
Left Rear and Right Rear – There will be no wires for the rear feeds at the radio as this was taken care of in the DSP amp. You will need to run two new pairs of wires from here to the DSP amp location.
Subwoofer +ve and –ve – Connect to Orange and Orange/Black on pins 1 and 4 of C0921 (small 6 way connector with only 4 ways used).
Use the diagram above to ensure you get the correct wires on the plug that went onto the DSP amp. With the exception of pin 26 which is the main ground, pins coloured black on the diagram are ones that aren't needed. Although the numbering seems strange, the wires are arranged in pairs just not necessarily on the same row, hence pins 38 and 30 (for example) are next to each other. The back of this plug can be removed so you can cut the wires as close as possible to the plug giving you maximum length to play with and ensure you have the correct wires. I suggest cutting and connecting one pair at a time and not chopping the lot off then getting very confused.
At the DSP amp end you need to connect the wires from the front through to the speakers. Ideally this needs to be done via 2 way crossovers (four, one for each channel) to retain the sound quality.
Left Front – Connect the Yellow and Yellow/Black on pins 38 and 30 to the I/P of the crossover, the low frequency output of the crossover to the Green/Yellow and Yellow/Green wires from pins 4 and 3, connect the mid/high frequency output of the crossover to the White/Yellow and Yellow/White on pins 33 and 34.
Right Front - Connect the Red and Red/Black on pins 9 and 17 to the I/P of the crossover, the low frequency output of the crossover to the Green/Black and Black/Green wires from pins 25 and 24, connect the mid/high frequency output of the crossover to the White/Black and Black/White on pins 11 and 12.
Left Rear – Connect the pair of wires you have run to the back of the car from the Left Rear output of the Head Unit to the I/P of the crossover, the low frequency output of the crossover to the Green/Blue and Blue/Green from pins 2 and 1, connect the mid/high frequency output of the crossover to the Blue/White and White/Blue on pins 31 and 32.
Right Rear – Connect the pair of wires you have run to the back of the car from the Right Rear output of the Head Unit to the I/P of the crossover, the low frequency output of the crossover to the Green/Red and Red/Green from pins 23 and 22, connect the mid/high frequency output of the crossover to the White/Red and Red/White on pins 13 and 21.
If you choose not to use crossovers and are quite happy with a ‘muddy’ sound quality, then simply parallel the Low and mid/high frequency feeds to the speakers.
The sub output from the radio simply loops through the DSP amp so the input and output need connecting together. Connect the Orange and Orange/Black on pins 39 and 40 to a matching pair of Orange and Orange/Black wires on pins 6 and 14 which go to the sub.
You will be left with a few spare wires that aren’t being used. These are for power to the amp (two supplies, one on a Purple wire and the other on a Brown wire), the switch on signal, Navigation mute, Navigation voice input, Road speed signal (for the speed dependant volume adjustment), Ground, DSP data, Phone Mute and Phone audio input (yes, despite numerous people butchering the wiring to add phone kits, there was a simple plug in loom available from LR that integrated a mobile phone with the existing system). All these spare wires should be insulated so they don’t short out against ground or each other.
I’ve gone through this at least 3 times now to make sure I’ve got it correct and haven’t got my +ve and –ve feeds crossed (which, again, will result in poor sound quality), but check through the diagram and legend above just to see if you can see any errors.
Could be you are right, or interference induced into the power line corrupts something, maybe try ferrites on the fridge power cables? I've had mine do the same, turn the key, nothing, check the gear lever, in Park but cycled it anyway, tried again and fired up without problem. Never noticed if the CEL is on or not though, it isn't the sort of thing you look at. Odd thing is, cycling the key won't cause it to send a sync code so if it was out of sync the first time it still will be. Maybe Relay 15 or 19 is getting tired and not immediately operating so the engine ECU isn't getting power?
Relay 15 not operating will give no CEL and also no ABS pump running. If it does it again, check if that is running which might give a clue.
O rings? Are you talking fuel pump in the tank or FIP on a diesel?
Onedrive works but only if you copy and paste the URL for the actual image not a link to the page the image is on.
Suitably edited except for you first links. The first is a URL to a web page so can't be embedded as a picture and the second one was the same link but trying to show it as a picture. I suspect you pasted the wrong link there.
Bolt, you are absolutely correct (see http://rrnet.gadsdenrovers.com/modelspecs/2002.html). I was only repeating misinformation from someone on the dark side. As the Borrego was a US only model, I (wrongly) assumed they knew what they were talking about.
AA yellow and Borrego Yellow have different paint codes too.
Not mine but Tom (tking88) bought his car to me yesterday. Fitted a window regulator, RH front height sensor, removed a lot of extra EAS pipework for a manual inflation system that had no many joints it was a leak waiting to happen, calibrated the EAS, fitted a diesel hot start box and had a look at all the things he'd been told needed doing. Rather than every ball joint on the front end needing replacing, only one had the tiniest bit of play (so little that most MoT testers wouldn't even notice it). The front air springs that allegedly were in dire need of being replaced are in better nick than the ones on my Ascot (and they were replaced two years ago) and the leaking rear axle seal looks more like brake fluid was spilt when the brakes were worked on and was a dark stain rather than a leak. Cleaned it off with brake cleaner and Tom is going to keep an eye on it but I don't expect it to come back.
So then we got stuck into some cosmetics. Changed the steering wheel for a refurbed wood and leather one, pulled the instrument cluster out and swapped the fuel gauge for one with a needle so he now knows how much fuel he has in it then got stuck in with fitting a Parrot hands free system which involved stuffing an awful lot of wiring behind the dash. If the Parrot loom had been 6 inches longer the unit could have been fitted neatly behind the knee panel but it isn't. Had a little problem with the radio after it was reconnected (see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2202-alphinr-head-unit-unresponsive-last-known-settings) but that has cleared itself after it has been left overnight and it's now working as it should. Finally, fitted proper lightstone leather covered centre console sides in place of the grey ones that had been painted lightstone.
Like that. What you are doing is linking to the page that has the picture on it and not the picture itself. What I just did with your post was click the links to go to the page the images are on, then right click on the actual picture and select copy image location, then paste that in the pop up box.
I've done something similar but much less OE looking. I just glued an LED panel over the hole where the original 'candle in a jamjar' light had been. Works very well, the only problem being that I keep my toolbox on the LH side of the boot (where the sub and CD player would be if I had them) so I'm standing in my own shadow. One day I'll get around to getting another LED panel and fit it on the other side.
They call it AA yellow, probably because AA means nothing in the US. All you'd need over here is a beacon on the roof. Although the Borrego was also available in red.
Other than a respray, just routine maintenance really.....
But he's in the US (I assume), so anything can happen.
To add to this, as Tom has just left my place where the Parrot was fitted, the manual says to hold the UP button while turning the unit on. Doing that doesn't do anything but we both seem to recall that it has to be left for some time before it gets it's knickers untwisted. It was working perfectly, it was unpluggged and has been in this state since being plugged back in.
Continuing from your post on the dark side, pulling the sill locking knob up on either side won't do anything while it is out of sync and needing the EKA. The central locking has been disabled and until you find the fault with the drivers door and are able to enter the EKA, it won't be enabled again.
So after swapping outstations, passenger side works but drivers side still doesn't? There's a connector at the end of the rubber tube between the door and the rest of the car inside the door jamb. Try tracing back and see if you can find that and check it for corrosion.
Sounds about right. It needs the EKA but if there is a problem with the door outstation then nothing will be working on the door. Does the window and mirror work on the passenger door? Both front door outstations are powered from fuses 9 and 22, so if the passenger side isn't working either, then that would be the place to start. If the passenger side is working, try swapping the outstations over and see if the fault moves.
Keycode Lockout will clear after 30 minutes, what does the dash say then if you try to start the car? Or can't you get into the car (in which case, how do you know the window doesn't work?).
No, it can't be done. Auto Logic may be able to turn off what is under the heading 'Immobiliser' in The BeCM, just the same as a Nanocom, Faultmate and various other dedicated diagnostics can but all that does is turn off passive immobilisation not the immobiliser.
Have you had the door panel off to see if the wiring to the door latch is chaffed or is being caught (and grounded) by the window mechanism?
The MG TF latches are the same as the mid production P38. Early ones have a socket on the latch itself so the loom plugs straight into it, then you have the later ones from sometime in 96 where there is a flying lead with two plugs, an 8 way and a 2 way (with only one way used) and 2001 and later which have one larger connector. The MG ones have the two connectors on flying leads. So a LH latch from an MG will fit the drivers side on a LHD P38. No good for a RHD though as the LHD passenger latch only has 1 microswitch and not the 3 needed of a P38. A LH one from a LHD car is mirror image so you can't even swap the switches over.