Other than a respray, just routine maintenance really.....

But he's in the US (I assume), so anything can happen.

To add to this, as Tom has just left my place where the Parrot was fitted, the manual says to hold the UP button while turning the unit on. Doing that doesn't do anything but we both seem to recall that it has to be left for some time before it gets it's knickers untwisted. It was working perfectly, it was unpluggged and has been in this state since being plugged back in.

Continuing from your post on the dark side, pulling the sill locking knob up on either side won't do anything while it is out of sync and needing the EKA. The central locking has been disabled and until you find the fault with the drivers door and are able to enter the EKA, it won't be enabled again.

So after swapping outstations, passenger side works but drivers side still doesn't? There's a connector at the end of the rubber tube between the door and the rest of the car inside the door jamb. Try tracing back and see if you can find that and check it for corrosion.

Sounds about right. It needs the EKA but if there is a problem with the door outstation then nothing will be working on the door. Does the window and mirror work on the passenger door? Both front door outstations are powered from fuses 9 and 22, so if the passenger side isn't working either, then that would be the place to start. If the passenger side is working, try swapping the outstations over and see if the fault moves.

Keycode Lockout will clear after 30 minutes, what does the dash say then if you try to start the car? Or can't you get into the car (in which case, how do you know the window doesn't work?).

No, it can't be done. Auto Logic may be able to turn off what is under the heading 'Immobiliser' in The BeCM, just the same as a Nanocom, Faultmate and various other dedicated diagnostics can but all that does is turn off passive immobilisation not the immobiliser.

Have you had the door panel off to see if the wiring to the door latch is chaffed or is being caught (and grounded) by the window mechanism?

The MG TF latches are the same as the mid production P38. Early ones have a socket on the latch itself so the loom plugs straight into it, then you have the later ones from sometime in 96 where there is a flying lead with two plugs, an 8 way and a 2 way (with only one way used) and 2001 and later which have one larger connector. The MG ones have the two connectors on flying leads. So a LH latch from an MG will fit the drivers side on a LHD P38. No good for a RHD though as the LHD passenger latch only has 1 microswitch and not the 3 needed of a P38. A LH one from a LHD car is mirror image so you can't even swap the switches over.

Yes you can change the front bearing with the TC in place. Hardest part is breaking the RTV seal on the VC cover. Generally accepted method is once all 6 bolts are out, hit it with a hammer to twist it. There's even a couple of lugs that look like they were put there for that very reason. Problem with the circlips is that they are very strong, stronger than my recently purchased Machine Mart circlip pliers. The VC on mine took a bit of persuading to get it out of the bearing and I ended up putting the old nut on the shaft (as the Ashcroft seal and bearing kit comes with two new nuts too) and hitting it with a club hammer.

Mine is all back together now and flooring the throttle from standstill no longer gives me a skip. Even with two of us and a transmission lift, getting the TC back in is a real pig of a job.

You need a new drivers door latch if it is locking and unlocking itself while driving. I take it you are locking and unlocking with the key and not the fob?

I'll take a picture tomorrow, but the gearbox output shaft stays on the gearbox. It has external splines while the transfer case input shaft is a tube with internal splines that fits over it. Hence it is the outside of the transfer case input shaft that bears against the gearbox output oil seal.

No, couldn't be arsed...... Maybe I'll take some tomorrow when it is going back in.

Yup, Dexron 3 for transfer case and auto gearbox but ordinary 75W-90 gear oil in the diffs. When I pulled the transfer case off and then put it back on again, I only read the bit in RAVE on how to remove it, I didn't bother reading the how to refit it. I mean, it's just the reverse of the above surely (and there's an awful lot of bits they tell you to remove or disconnect that you don't need to do)? It is but the first sentence in the refit instructions, is to always change the gearbox output shaft seal if the transfer case has been removed. So on that occasion it was ATF leaking out of the gearbox and not the transfer case.

The transfer box was off and on the bench in under 3 hours and that included a lot of swearing at bolts that didn't want to come undone. I reckon it will go back on in not much over an hour. It was just the fight that a couple of bearings took to remove (or more to the point, the big circlips that hold them in) and getting the thing back together that took most of the time today.

Didn't get too cold but didn't get it finished so it's still on the ramp with the transfer case on the bench. Old chain must be at least an inch longer than the new one so not surprising it could be made to skip. Front output shaft bearing had slack in it as well as being noisy and rear output shaft oil seal was slowly filling the parking brake drum with ATF. So a good job I bought the seal and bearing kit as well as the chain. Following the instructions in the overhaul manual, having changed the chain, bearings and seals, it came to putting it back together. Would it go together? Would it hell. One thing I couldn't understand was that when putting the interlock spool back in, it says to put it in low ratio even though it had been in high when taken apart. Looking at the way the cogs line up, this actually made sense. But the cover wouldn't go on. We must have taken it on and off at least 6 times trying to work out what was stopping it about 15mm short of going on fully home. Finally twigged it. All the pictures in the manual show the transfer case with no range change motor fitted. As the motor was in high and the mechanism in low, the two didn't line up and was stopping the two halves of the casing going together. Pull the motor off and the casing slotted back in. Then rotate the drive to put it back into high and refit the motor.

At this point, we'd spent so much time with the thing in bits on the bench, we decided to call it a day and finish it off tomorrow. Should be pretty straightforward not having to do battle with bolts that haven't been undone for many years.

Might become a collectors item one day purely for rarity reasons. The do seem a bit of an oddball, nice paintwork, red piped seats and red carpets but lacking many options. No headlamp wash/wipe along with the other things Sloth mentioned.

If it sounds like a fan, it probably is a fan. Pull the centre console switch panel, take it out and give it a proper clean.

I've changed one on my own with the car on the ground in the past, took a whole weekend. Mate who is giving me a hand has a 94 Classic which needed the viscous changing and we used the lift when doing that. It may be heavy but with two people and the car up in the air, it only took about 3 hours to remove the T case, change the VC and put it all back together. So, with any luck, we should be able to get mine done before it gets dark.....

Got thermal long johns, thermal socks, a thick pair of jeans, tee shirt, sweat shirt, overalls (laying in the passenger footwell so the heater will be blowing on them on the way over), old jacket (also in the passenger footwell) and 3 pairs of gloves. Got a woolly hat somewhere but I'm buggered if I can find it although I have a feeling it might be in the boot of the car already.

I've been able to make the chain skip a tooth if I floored it from standstill for a while now (only to be expected after 410,000 I suppose) but as I may have to tow a dead 1978 Rolls Royce for about 300 miles next week, figured I ought to do it before then. As it's coming out I bought a set of bearings and seals to go in while it's apart and on the bench (or floor, I can't remember if the barn has a bench in it or not).

Today I've pulled the EAS valve block off and given it a set of new O rings. Wasn't that urgent but it was beginning to drop slightly overnight so figured I'd do it. As it was -1C this morning, took the car out for a 10 mile or so run to get everything nice and warm, then pulled the valve block out so I could take it into the house and do the job in the warm. By the time I'd finished it and went outside to refit it, the temperature was up to a nice (?) +4 degrees C.

Weather is forecast to be the same tomorrow so I'll be getting a bit chilly. Arranged the use of a 4 post lift belonging to a mate's brother in law to make dropping the transfer case and giving it a new chain, bearings and seals. Only problem is that the lift is in a barn with a huge opening at one end so not even a chance of being able to put a heater in there. We're working on the principle that by the time I've driven over there (30 odd miles), everything will be nice and warm so we'll only start to freeze when putting it back......

If you jack the front of the car up on the crossmember just in front of the bottom of the radiator, leaving the wheels sitting on the ground, the gap between the sump and the top of the axle opens up enough to drop the sump.