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If you have it, do a test to make sure it is correct. If you lock with the fob and then unlock with the key, it will ask for the EKA. Enter it (instructions are also in the handbook, under Locks and Alarm) and make sure it works. If it does, great, if it doesn't then you just need to unlock with the fob again and that resets everything back to normal.

Emergency Key Access, the most important 4 digit number for any P38 owner. If, for whatever reason, the car cannot be unlocked with the remote fob and you resort to the old fashioned method of putting a bit of metal in the hole, it will unlock just the drivers door and will not turn off the immobiliser so you can get in but not start the car. To turn that off you enter the EKA by putting the key in the drivers door lock, turning to lock 4 times, then enter the first digit with the correct number of turns to unlock, second digit with turns to lock and so on. After entering all 4 digits a single turn to unlock unlocks the other doors and turns the immobiliser off so you can start the car. Alternatively, if you have a Nanocom you can plug that in and key in the EKA which does the same thing. It should be in the owners handbook if you have it, if you don't, an LR main dealer should be able to look your car up on their system and tell you what it is.

Depends on what you want. If you want to proper original key and fob, it has to be ordered from Land Rover using your VIN as the key needs to be programmed for your car before they send it out to you, not cheap though. Alternatively, if you just want a dumb keyblade (or what they call a valet key), your local Timsons or other key cutting place can do it (it uses a BMW blank which they probably won't keep in stock). At least then you can get in the car, enter the EKA and drive it, you just won't have the remote operation.

I've recently done the F Gas for industrial and domestic and the automotive AC courses and got my qualifications for them. A couple of mates, both in the entertainment industry so have no work on at the moment, did the automotive course so they are doing mobile AC re-gassing while they have no proper work. I (illegally) installed AC in my daughters house and have since been asked to do installs for other people so did the F Gas course. F Gas is a 4 day course compared with automotive being a 1 day one so I asked if I could also do the automotive while I was at it. As this was only a few weeks ago, it's all still fresh in my mind, so RAVE is wrong. R134A runs at between 12 and 15 bar depending on ambient temperature and a pressure test should be done at 1.43 x operating pressure. However on automotive systems, 10 bar is regarded as the 'safe' pressure test, it will show up any leaks but won't cause any that weren't already there. So you connect up the Nitrogen (should be OFN really), crank it up to 10 bar and then leave it for 30 minutes. Even the smallest leak will show up almost immediately with the gauge on the bottle dropping. Then you let the OFN out and vacuum down to around 1.3 mBar (1000 microns) before refilling with refrigerant. it's this bit that the automatic machines that most places use do. So will manually pressure test with OFN before letting the machine do it's thing but most don't bother and rely on the vacuum test. It's very common for a system to be able to hold a vacuum but not pressure, so it's not a valid check really and there's no substitute for doing it properly, although that does rely on whoever is doing it knows what they are doing, and most don't......

Gauges are cheap enough these days and the Argon regulator you've got is fine for what you are doing (domestic AC systems running R410A or R32, need to be pressure tested at 37 bar so need one a bit meatier) but it's the vacuum pump that you probably don't have.

If it won't dry in this weather, assuming you've got a similar 32 degrees to me, it'll never dry. It's the thick foam underneath that normally takes a long time to dry out although someone did say driving over it can help to squeeze the water out.

I've never owned a car with twin electrics so this is all a bit theoretical for me but by looking at the diagram here https://www.westerntowing.co.uk/blog/caravan-12s-wiring-diagram/ it seems to me that you have everything you need except for a battery charge feed on the blue wire (pin 2). I'm not sure why a fridge would be powered from an ignition switched supply either (surely it will start to defrost when you aren't driving?) but that must be a caravanner's thing. You've got the other feeds in the connector you've found behind the LH rear light. I've used that connector to provide power to a reversing camera and a pair of fag lighter power sockets in the boot with a changeover switch so they can be either ignition switched or permanently live. As you say, the wires, and fusing, are too feeble to use to charge an additional battery in the caravan unless it's only a little one (and from my limited knowledge of power in a caravan I know that usually they are hoofing great big leisure batteries).

For the blue wire to charge a battery, the way I would do it is use a voltage sensing relay (or just a blocking diode if you can live with the 0.8V drop) and run a separate cable, preferably 6.0mm, directly from that to pin 2 on the socket. That way you can have the caravan battery in parallel with the vehicle battery when the engine is running but disconnected when it isn't. My car still has the split charge relay that plod installed for an auxiliary battery in the boot and that takes it's trigger from the sense terminal on the alternator so operates (or did) when the alternator is charging.

No need to get all the stickiness off, just any lumps of foam so the surface is smooth. At the summer camp my partner was in Marty's workshop taking the old stuff off with a wire brush. Made a hell of a mess and she ended up with one inch sticky foam platforms on her trainers. Then she walked out of the workshop and the gravel stuck to the soles of her shoes.......

One word, Martrim......

dhallworth wrote:

Amazing that Land Rover charge £1500 for a GEMS MAF.

Nah, not that much, only £1137.55 including the VAT (https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR5595-Air-Flow-Meter/) or a mere £897.49 if you are prepared to part ex your duff one (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ERR5595). must admit there's not a lot in it for that money though (and, fortunately, pattern ones work adequately well in a GEMS unlike a Thor that insist on having genuine Bosch).

I would assume there's two ways of doing it. Either just connect to the dangling connector meaning you probably won't have anything connected to Pin 2 of the white socket so it won't charge a caravan battery, or connect the extra bit under the bonnet so it has the ability to charge a caravan battery while the engine is running. The GEMS diagram shows a couple of spare ways on the pink plug, one of which is fed with permanent power from fuse 35, however, as you say, the Thor diagram is different. However, there is a permanent live output shown as spare on pin 3 of C0570 (the grey plug) fed from Fuse 29, although the face view of that connector shows it to have a Red/Black wire in it which the diagram shows as going nowhere.....

Just deleted your duplicate post (in case you wonder where it went). When mine came free after having the windows open the car filled with sticky orange bits of foam.....

We did a mass headlining replacement session at one of the Summer Camps at Marty's workshop. See https://rangerovers.pub/topic/663-summer-camp-2017-head-lining-photos

See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor#Hot_wire_sensor_(MAF)

Have you got a voltage on the bits that stick into the airflow?

This is getting very confusing with the same conversation going on here and on the dark side......

Marty, any chance of having a DSP amp replacement-a-thon now? The 2001 Vogue that used to belong to OldShep and has been rescued by me and a mate has the DSP system with just the sub working. It did work intermittently but now not at all, or at least not in the 40 minutes it took me to drive it over to my mates place anyway.

I used to carry a can of gloop with the pump (as well as the spare) but, after using it on a trailer tyre, didn't bother to replace it. On the two occasions I've needed to use the spare the tyre was in such a state that the can of gloop wouldn't have done anything anyway. I'd rather have to change a wheel than wait hours for a foreign speaking breakdown man only to have him tell me he can't do anything as he can't find a local tyre supplier with one in the correct size in stock. Once I had to buy a tyre for a trailer when in France and could only find one place with the correct one in stock and at a price that was at least twice what it would have cost me here.

I would put money on one having given up long ago and the extra weight caused the other to let go recently.

I've got two runs to do in the next 5 weeks, the first a 4,000 mile round trip, the second a mere 1,800 miles. Like I say, there's no point in standing next to it at the side of the road thinking, "bugger, if only I hadn't left xxxxxx in the garage, I could fix this in minutes".

I have once stood the spare upright on one side when I needed all of the boot (and back seat) space. By leaving the stuff that lives inside the wheel in it against the side, I gained more space but I wouldn't want to leave it there all the time as it is taller than the boot meaning the cover can't be put on. But is was fairly full......

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That was with the rear seats and rear footwells filled up too.

Probably not what you want to see but I've always found if you make a box for things, you don't manage to fit everything in or don't manage to fill it fully. Like you, I've got a wheel well full of gas tank so the spare sits in the boot, hollow side up so it can be filled with a blanket, rolls of tape, jump leads, gasket goo, spare bulbs, spare CPS, length of climbing rope, steel binding wire, electrical wire, tyre pump, magnetic amber beacon, weatherproof jacket, big torch and other assorted bits (including a spare starter motor and alternator when I do my cross Europe runs). Down the side of it is 4 litre container of oil, bottle of ATF, 10 litres of water, squirty bottle full of washing up liquid and water, and a couple of small ratchet straps. All held in place by a 3 tonne trolley jack with small magnetic LED torch stuck to it.

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On the left side there's toolbox, fire extinguisher, wheelbrace and an additional power socket run from the connector intended for the extra power socket if you have dual trailer electrics.

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Then in the space that once had the OE jack and wheelbrace, there's warning triangle, tow rope, set of Schrader valve adapters for the EAS, set of ignition coils and assorted lengths of coolant hose in different sizes with Jubilee clips.

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Then under the rear seat there's an old Panasonic Toughbook laptop with RAVE, EASUnlock and LPG software loaded on it and in the front seat back pockets the Nanocom, cable for EASUnlock, and a bag of spare fuses. Under the from passenger seat there's a 300W inverter that can be plugged into an additional power socket under the back of the centre console.

As my car never had the CD changer, sub or sat nav taking up boot space, I've got the full width of the boot available. Plod had an axillary battery on the RHS (cables to the front are still there) where I now keep my bottles of liquids and the toolbox fits nicely in the space where the sub would be if I had one. Toolbox contains just about everything I need about the only things that stay in the garage rather than travelling with me everywhere are specialist stuff like the big torque wrench, axle stands and angle grinder. In fact, if the torque wrench was in the car I'd have everything I needed to change head gaskets at the side of the road if I needed to.

I appreciate not everyone carries their entire workshop around with them all the time but I'd far rather be in the position to be able to fix something at the side of the road when I'm 2,000 miles away from home. My view is there's no point in having something you might need only for it to have been left behind.

You are likely to have the door amps which you will see with the door panel off (fag packet sized box mounted lower down the door next to the bass speaker). That is supplied with power from the door outstations (the other box mounted at the top of the door). Door outstations get their power from Fuse 9 in the BeCM fuse panel. This feed doesn't go through the connector behind the kick panel but through one higher up at the end of the rubber tube between door and A post, however, as you say, a problem there would only affect one side not both.