8mm. At least that's what my hex head socket says on it.
No, it's a globe with a diaphragm with Nitrogen under pressure on one side and brake fluid on the other. The pump builds up the pressure and the accumulator, as it's name suggests, stores it until needed. The brake pedal just opens a valve to let the high pressure fluid through.
Couldn't tell you exactly how long my pump runs for but probably around the 30-40 second mark and that is with an accumulator that was replaced about 4 years ago. All I know is the lights go out by the time I reach the bus stop down the road if I start the car first thing in the morning, reverse out onto the road and drive off. Pump cuts in after every 4 uses of the brake pedal.
Get a set of O rings for the valve block and spend an afternoon fitting them, an ideal job for when it's raining and you can do it indoors. Not difficult at all, just be methodical. make sure the kit you get includes the diaphragm valve rubber too.
Sit the air spring in as far as you can, connect the air line, start the engine then put the pin in when the weight of the car has shoved the air spring into place.
That's right, it relies on you having a conscience and self isolating. Rumour has it that one or two people have had a phone call asking if they are staying at home but I don't want to take the piss and say I didn't stop but did. the actual wording on the Government is that you must quarantine if you get out of the car, mix with other people and get back in again. I wasn't sure if filling with fuel and going into the filling station to pay for it would be mixing with other people but I suppose it would depend on how many people are in there and how close you get to them. However, if I don't stop at all, then there's no argument and if anyone wanted proof that I didn't stop I would ask them to prove I did.....
Anyway, now up to a total of 1538 miles since leaving home and am currently being supplied with large quantities of alcohol by my partner's father......
Bung it up in here then https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1372-handy-downloads
Next episode, set off from home about 16:30 yesterday, down to Dover, topped up the LPG tank so that was full as well as about 60 litres of Tesco best unleaded and got on the ferry. 1082 miles later, arrived in Warsaw about 2 hours ago. Cruised at 75-80 all the way and only one tiny problem. Looked at the HEVAC to see what the outside temperature was and had a blank screen looking at me. Figured the bulb behind the display had blown so ignored it but then, in a moment of optimism, tapped it and it came back. Not a blown bulb, just the bulb holder needs cleaning.
As France, Belgium and Holland are not on the Covid safe list, if I stopped in any of them, got out of the car and mixed with other people, then I would have to quarantine for 14 days when I get back. If I didn't stop at all, I wouldn't need to so figured not stopping was the best plan. Google maps told me it was 214 miles from the Calais ferry terminal to the first LPG station in Germany but Google maps tells fibs, it was actually 228 and I only managed 227 miles on my full LPG tank so had to run on petrol for that last mile. Maybe if I'd driven slightly slower I would have made it (but if I'd driven slightly slower I doubt my bladder would have done, I was busting by the time I got to that filling station).
Got another 480 miles to do tomorrow before I reach my destination followed a 300 mile round trip on Saturday......
Gordonjcp-adm wrote:
Aren't we all "happy amateurs" at something? I'm only just learning how to fix cars, but given that I've been only just learning about it for nearly 40 years there are a few things I'm not too bad at... ;-)
I started learning how to rebuild engines at the age of 11 but experience of decoking a 600cc, flat twin, sidevalve, aircooled engine doesn't help me a lot with a P38. There's still things I will steer clear of, as I demonstrated a few weeks ago, I can pull the heads and replace the gaskets in a day but the deepest I will go into an auto gearbox is to change the filter. As far as I am concerned, auto gearboxes operate by fairy dust and magic.
I take it he's a mechanic then so considers himself a professional? Might be worth pointing out to him that the dictionary definition of a professional is someone that does something for money not that he does it properly, just that he gets paid for bodging someone else's car rather than doing it for free......
A poor LPG install causing the engine to run lean will burn the valve seats but it is well known that the grade of steel used by Ford is softer than that used by some other manufacturers (although nothing like as soft as that used by the Japs). As you say, to a large extent it will depend on the system fitted, how well, how well calibrated and how the car is driven.
JMCLuimni wrote:
Shame the site allows him to moderate it into what is is becoming.....
He's been demoted from Admin to Moderator and hardly appears on there these days, I haven't seen a post from him in months. I was made a Moderator as the existing ones didn't seem to be doing anything (and I've never edited a post or banned anyone for having a sense of humour although I've tried posting stuff that would have got me a ban from him in the past and nobody has said anything). The biggest problem with rr.net these days is most of the knowledgeable have left in disgust and it's now mostly new members asking the same old questions that have been asked and answered many times. Very few seem to work on their cars and are always asking how to fix the problems that have been introduced when their 'mechanic' did a completely unrelated job.
Seems we are the accepted place for refugees from LZ as well as RR.net now. All are welcome and nobody gives any grief here, we're all too busy nailing our motors back together.....
When you come to trimming, remember to wrap the material around at the front and on either side at the rear between the C and D pillars rather than cut to the edge of the board. These are the two areas where the rubber trims don't cover the edges.
Not really work, more a hobby that can sometimes earn me a bit of pocket money. It depends on the trailer I'm towing as I hire them as and when needed so don't always get the same type. I've got the factory swan neck towbar so can't alter the height so I'll look at how it sits when loaded and decide whether standard or motorway is the right height to keep it level. Brian James trailers tend to sit slightly lower than Ifor Williams ones so I lock it in Motorway and I always do if it's a single axle one or an empty twin axle. Remember there's no lower speed limit when towing on the Continent so I can cruise at 75 ish and keeping it lower makes it more stable.
Got the noseweight loading the wrong way round above, too much and you'll hit resonance, too little, so it is tail heavy and it'll snake. On more than one occasion, I've stopped after the first downhill and moved a car further forward on a trailer as it started to snake and needed more weight on the front.
Every winter, as soon as the temperature gets down to about 3 degrees C, or the weather man says it's going to get down that low, they chuck tonnes of rock salt all over the roads. Countries that get far colder than the UK don't, people just fit winter tyres and learn how to drive properly.
But at least the BMW lump has hard valve seats so doesn't need a lube system fitting. A mate runs a Jag XJR and a 4.4 Disco 4, both on LPG.
I tow all sorts of things, usually near or even over the 3.5 tonnes limit. I've found that the weight doesn't make a lot of difference to fuel consumption, it's the aerodynamics, or lack of, that make most difference. I towed an Audi A2 on a small car trailer to Latvia and the fuel consumption, and cruising speed, were hardly any different to running solo (although it did take slightly longer to get up to cruising speed), but towing an empty 6 foot tall box trailer made a hell of a difference. The most important thing is getting the weight distribution right, too little nose weight and you'll hit resonance at around 55-60 mph and it'll start to shudder, too much and the tail can start to try to wag the dog and it'll start snaking at around the same speed, especially when going downhill.
RTFM, 80 ft/lb or 108 Nm if you want it in foreign.
I quite like the noise the TD5 engine makes but when has anyone every revved a diesel engine and stood there with a big silly grin on their face from the noise it makes? Even the Le Mans wining Audi diesels don't sound nice compared with everything else. Problem with an oil burning L322 is that it also comes with the GM gearbox which, if you are lucky, is good for about 80,000 miles
The ones he's got are the NGK PFR6N-11 Platinum plugs which are the recommended ones for a Thor (rather than the BPR6ES copper core for GEMS). My point is that after 10 miles I would expect them to still look like they did when put in and not covered in soot.