But did you replace the entire run with braided or just the flexible hoses? The original suggestion was doing away with the hard metal lines completely and running flexible over the whole run.

If all the nuts torqued up properly, there's no reason the gaskets shouldn't last. Sounds like you've done a good job, well done.

Never played with one but I would have assumed it would take the date and time from the GPS signal? Is it just wrong or is it displaying the time from a different time zone?

Of course it gets hot, you are compressing air so the temperature will rise. Even a footpump will get hot if you are using it to blow up a tyre. The better the compressor is working the more heat it will generate. You only need worry if the motor is getting too hot. By too hot, I mean in excess of 90 degrees as the thermal cutout is rated to cut the power at 105 C.

I doubt it was gearbox overheat unless it did it just as you reached the top of the hill and came off the throttle so it cooled down immediately. You probably need to wait until the fault stays long enough for it to display on the message centre. Then you will at least know why it is beeping at you so can deal with that.

How much did you have to put in as it's only 200 ml from empty to full on the dipstick. So out of a full fill of 11 litres, a few millilitres is nothing.

I had that on the Ascot, 3 beeps, then another 3 beeps but nothing on the message centre. Then one day I got the 3 beeps and EAS Fault on the dash immediately followed by 3 beeps and it went off. At the same time the EAS height light went out then came back on. Problem was a dodgy connection in the multiway connector behind the LH kickpanel. Chopped the connector out and soldered and heatshrinked the wires.

One side of the three bulbs is connected directly to pins 14 and 4 (which are commoned on the pcb anyway) but that is a permanent supply, according to the ETM (E2 page 4) the other side of them is connected to the LCD display and, via a resistor, to pin 20 which connects to the HEVAC. I can't see putting power to pin 14 and grounding pin 20 doing any harm to anything else. HEVAC pins can tarnish and benefit from contact cleaner so it could be as simple as that. Mine would intermittently lose the ignition switched supply when I first got the car.

Don't forget though, the backlights for the message centre come on with the ignition while the other illumination comes on with the sidelights. I seem to remember someone having a broken track in the feed to the backlights at some time in the distant past and the fix is fairly easy. I'll pull my spare out from under the bench and stare at it closely in case the fix jumps out at me.......

I knew the question had been dealt with before, https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1259-heater-core-temperature-sensor?page=3. Seems a 22k Ohm NTC thermistor is what you need, so one of these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermistor-ics/1912279/ would probably work fine. You'd need to insulate the wires (or wrap a bit of tape around the pipe so the wires don't short together) and attach it with a tie wrap but at 81p each with 4 spares, it's got to be better than a 3 figure price.....

Is the LCD not displaying anything or is it just not illuminated? If it is the backlight bulbs, you should be able to see the display if you shine a bright torch across it. If it is lit with the ignition on, then the backlights are OK but it may not have a display. See the second pic in my post here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2091-dashboard-cluster and you can see the ribbon cable that connects the LCD unit to the main pcb. Simple enough to get at, all you need do is pop the translucent back cover off.

The small green and amber bulbs go in the switches, the row above the clock with the front and rear foglight switches, the cruise switch, the hazard switch and the EAS switch and rocker. They push out from behind so you need to take the centre console side panels off, the knee panel and the instrument cluster surround to get to the screws around the outside that holds it in place. Pull it forward and push the switches out from behind.. The HEVAC needs clear bulbs as it has green screens in there and the set I linked to has the lot. The bulb in a green holder is a higher wattage and goes behind the display to light it up. While you've got the side panels off, there's two screws on either side of the HEVAC. Take them out and tilt it so the top comes forward and clear, then you can pull the whole thing forward and out far enough to unplug the connectors to it.

Found your way here then Paul, welcome.

Already told you in your other thread.

For the dashboard switches, green bulbs for the illumination are STC1878 while amber bulbs to show it is switched on is STC1877. The amber lights behind the heated windscreen a heated rear window switches to show they are switched on are actually surface mounted lights on the main printed circuit board of the HEVAC and don't ever seem to fail. The backlight bulbs can and do but you can get a set of replacement bulbs, see https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/bulb-heater-control-unit-jfc102550b-p-4953.html

As said, skim the minimum off the heads to get them flat. Take the valves out, clean the carbon off the top of the heads and give the seats a gentle lapping with grinding paste. Check for wear in the guides. Unless a lot has to be skimmed of the heads, it's unlikely that you'll need to shim the rocker pedestals but it's easy enough to check (see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml). I'd also go for head studs as you've no way of knowing if the replacement head bolts will stretch as the original spec called for.

I've been there a couple of times. A mate's parent's used to own a former shepherds cottage near Brough that was used as a holiday home by friends and family. Most interesting time was looking down on a pair of RAF Tornados flying through the valley.....

Front or rear? Front https://www.lrdirect.com/STC2786-Sensor-Abs-New-Rr-Front/, rear for an early car https://www.lrdirect.com/STC2787-Sensor-Abs/, rear for later one, https://www.lrdirect.com/STC3385-Sensor-Abs/. Only differences are the lengths of the cables though, so you can use any if you don't mind cutting, soldering and heatshrinking the joins.

99 plate but GEMS? Must be one that sat around for a while before it was registered, or, as an Autobiography, whoever ordered it ordered a strange combination and it took them a long time to build it. Isn't Barnard Castle where people go for eye tests?

There isn't a dash light, I mean the light in the switch, the indicator light, which you said does come on.