Yes, intermediate shaft is the silver one. That is one of the later all steel ones with a hexagonal centre rather than the alloy ones with a splined centre. I bought one of those and there was play in the bottom UJ, the one that goes onto the steering box. I bought an OE replacement and that was the same type but without the play. Check it very carefully.

That sounds fine, as long as it maintains that pressure when you rev it.

+1 on the intermediate shaft, particularly as it's the only bit you haven't changed. The tiniest bit of play in either UJ or the rubber coupling results in a lot of play at the wheel. If you get someone to wobble the wheel you should be able to see where the play is.

Not the BeCM draining it then. Has anything got wet recently?

2 minutes exactly. Switch everything off close the door and wait 2 minutes. If the tell tale next to the gearchange doesn't go off, it's staying awake.

Get a decent passenger seat, bases are interchangeable and the passenger seat usually has a lot less wear.

Boge were OE but are NLA so some have fitted Bilsteins and had no complaints. Problem is it's much like replacing worn out original bushes with polys. It'll be an improvement but whether it is as good as it could be is a different matter. What you don't want is anything stiffer than original so maybe something adjustable would be best.

You'll need someone who has fitted them really, I probably got the last full set of Boge when I replaced mine about 3 years ago.

DON'T!!!!! They last about a fortnight if you get the soft ones and ruin the ride if you get the hard ones. They are OK on a sports car where ride is of much less importance, they were developed for racing after all, but anyone who has fitted them has found an improvement after worn out originals although nothing like as good as it should be.

You can have an enormous amount of play and it won't be picked up on the MoT. A good example being the top and bottom balljoints on the front hubs. An MoT test won't pick up any play in them as they only test for side to side movement. The way to check them is to jack it up on the axle so the wheel is dangling, then put a crowbar under the wheel and see if you can lift it. If you can, they are shot and have a very marked affect on the handling and steering. Wear in the Panhard rod bushes will allow the axle to move from side to side but again won't be picked up on the MoT.

Sounds more like a steering problem than a suspension one. It could be down to radius arm bushes, anti-roll bar bushes, any number of the bits of soggy 20 year old rubber in there.

If you fit stiffer dampers then the ride suffers (in fact, a few months after production started the dampers were made softer as very early cars were felt to be too harsh) so softer the better. It may even be down to tyres. My car feels a lot tauter than both the Ascot and the 2001 Vogue I've been working on recently. I'm on 16" wheels with higher profile tyres than the others on 18" wheels and 55 profile tyres. Both feel a bit vague but both have the same Goodyear tyres on them.

davew wrote:

Maybe you will get a better chance to video it again at 500K....

If I carry on at the same rate as I have for the last 10 years, that should be in about 5 years time.

Although it's got over 6,000 miles to do in September alone. Trip to Latvia at the beginning of the month (1520 miles each way with a bit of running around while I'm there so that should be 4,000 or so) followed by a trip to France and back via Yorkshire so should be close on another 2,000 miles.

How much is original? Most of the engine even though it went to V8 Dev to be rebuilt at 287,000, but the block, crank, rods, pistons and most other internal bits, although it got top hat liners, rings (4.0 litre pistons are about 4 times the price of 4.6 litre ones so the top hats were bored to standard and the original pistons just fitted with new rings) big ends and mains (although the crank didn't need grinding even at that mileage) and cam and followers. Gearbox and transfer case is original, as are 3 of the wheel bearings, the rear propshaft (but with new UJs), the front axle and diff while the rear has had a new diff. Obviously, things like brake discs, track rods.etc have been replaced, although the original steering box and drag link were only replaced a couple of weeks ago. Alternator died at about 260,000 and the starter not much longer afterwards. Airsprings were replaced when I first got it so have now done almost 200,000 in 10 years, both rear height sensors have been changed (but the fronts are original), the compressor has been rebuilt as has the valve block. Heater core O rings and 1 blend motor (the other two have been pulled apart, cleaned and greased), underbonnet fusebox and drivers door latch, while the sole keyfob is original except it's gone through about 3 sets of batteries. The drivers window regulator has been replaced but the others are all original too.

Most importantly, everything works and I do mean everything.

Yes, the two thick ones. 12V one way round makes it go down, reversing the polarity makes it go back up.

It had to be done. I wanted to get a video of it changing over but as I was approaching a roundabout at the time, missed it.

He can't, he's got a Thor which doesn't have the inspection plate like on the GEMS, it's an integral part of the cast alloy sump.

Interesting that the main codes are for number 8 but changing plug leads and plugs hasn't cured it and if it was a coil it would affect 2 cylinders and not just the one. Is it a misfire like just one cylinder not firing (lumpy idle, but smoothing out once the revs increase) or general rough running?

When I first got my car you didn't need to cut them open to see how they were made, one was burst and the others weren't far behind so you could see what was inside. Rubber inner, three layers of cords much the same as in a tyre (not surprising considering they are make by Dunlop) arranged at right angles to each other and a top layer of thicker rubber.

I'm 65 so not far behind you. Spent all of yesterday working on my car and doing a headlining on another at the weekend. It's what keeps us young.....

Yes there is, with enough left over to do about half a roof again. A couple of people have used the excess to trim the pillar trims and still had bits left over.

How the hell did you find that??????

That is the original Rangerovers.net pages that the new owners removed and everyone has been banging on about it being re-instated for over a year with no result.

Missed that. If taking the lower inlet off then yes you can leave the metal pipes attached to the manifold bit if only taking the rocker cover off, then at least one of them needs to come off (the one from the inlet manifold) or you can't lift the cover clear of the rockers.