Vogue was popping the message up when you used the brakes but, as you say, no faults logged when checked with the Nano. Brakes didn't feel right either but I only noticed it because they weren't as good as mine but without another car to compare with you could think they were fine.

Part number, EWR100560LNF, Source, JLR themselves https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/ewr100560lnf-cover-front-seat-height-adjustment-valance.html

Had this recently on the Vogue. Bled the brakes from start to finish as per RAVE and it doesn't do it any more. Brakes are a lot better too.

Canoe paintwork looks a bit flat anyway, why not give it a respray so they really do match?

The MG latches are the same as the P38 latches as long as you have the one with the pigtail with a 6 way and 2 way (with only one way used) connection and not the later one with a single larger connector. I know the MG LHD, Left hand latch is the same but not sure about the RH one. MG latches only have one microswitch in the passenger side latch rather than the 3 that both front latches have on the P38.

Classic sign of a worn out feedback pot, it will stick at one end of the travel or the other. When mine started to do it, it was the drivers side. It always decided to stick on hot in the summer and cold in the winter.....

Sounds like the one you have isn't working so it's got to be worth a try.

It won't move if the HEVAC isn't seeing a feedback signal. As it doesn't know what position it is in it won't try to move it.

Line in is very simple on the Clarion (see http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#clarion, although I solder to the pins on the back of the pcb and not onto the plug as shown there)) and once you have the line in it's easy to add a Bluetooth module to that. I've done the line in mod on the Clarion in the Ascot but didn't want to keep mine original (as original for police spec was no radio at all) so I've got a Kenwood Bluetooth enabled DAB radio in there.

The 5 wires to the blend motor are, Black, Brown (connected to the motor), White (wiper on the feedback pot), Red/Black (one end of feedback pot), Grey (other end of feedback pot). This are the 5 that come from the HEVAC and if you look at the plug that goes into the HEVAC you'll see 3 of each colour, each set going to one blend motor (left and right temperature and distribution).

Large motor behind the glovebox is the passenger side blower. If that doesn't start it will also cause the book symbol and needing a thump means it is either binding on something or the commutator or brushes are worn out.

Blimey, you staying in the UK? That's a hell of a move to be 750 miles away.

That would be easy but the problem is that nobody has one. It's the same on all Biturbo models of that era and there's a specialist breaker who has a number of cars. That bush is missing on every one he has. I don't think it is going to be rubber or anything like that as it fits into the bracket and the column rotates in it. If it was rubber then I doubt it would crack and fall out either! I've got some Nylon left over from making my EAS calibration blocks and my son-in-law has a woodworking lathe so was going to see if we could make something that would do the job but it's a bit of a problem not knowing what it should look like.

I'll make some more enquiries and see if I can find someone that has one who is willing to let it out of there sight for a while.

You've got a friendly tester there, use him again, that should be a fail.
5.3.4. (b) ii,
(b) A suspension joint dust cover:
(i) severely deteriorated - Minor (advisory)
(ii) missing or no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc.- Major (Fail)

They still pull pretty well up to, and over, the max of 3.5 tonnes.

See here for pics https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1877-how-to-topic

Getting back to the topic, done nothing to my car today other than drive it over to my mates place to do a few more jobs on the Vogue we are returning to it's former glory. Having received a box of bits from Marty, first job was to change the window switchpack. Old one mostly worked except you could only open the LH rear window but not close it and the same for the sunroof. Not only was not being able to close the sunroof a bit of a pain as I had to plug the Nano in and use that to drive it shut but it also meant it couldn't be tilted up so the dash kept complaining that the sunroof wasn't set. Refurbed switchpack in and everything now works.

Then it was out with the HEVAC. Armed with a zebra strip and Marty's excellent instruction on how to fit it, mate disappeared into the house to do that job in comfort while I pulled the RH blower to check that out. That sorted and refitted, left the panel off in case it needed further attention and started under the bonnet.

Whipped the throttle body off to sort the leak from the throttle body heater. Cleaned the mating faces, new gasket (that came with a head gasket set I bought ages ago but no good for my GEMS engine), cleaned the threads on the retaining bolts and put it all back together.

Mate re-appeared with the HEVAC so that was plugged in and the engine fired up. Checked the display, all fine even though the book was still showing. Checked the throttle body heater and coolant was spraying out, even worse than before. Turned out the end of one of the hoses was dodgy and the clip was stopping it falling off but not causing it to seal. Trimmed the end off the hose, put it back with a replacement clip, no more leaks.

Went back to the HEVAC and realised the Nano was telling fibs and it was the LH blower that was at fault and not the RH as it had been telling me. Dropped the glovebox to get at it and found the thin earth wire wasn't connected. Reconnected that and we had two working blowers and no book.

Only thing left now, other than taking it for an MoT, is to fit the Marty door amp replacement for the DSP amp. In cold weather the DSP amp will work but only for around 30 seconds, then the front speakers go off. Around 15 seconds later the rears would go off and that was it until next time it was cold. Which would seem to confirm the theory that the failure is a thermal problem but there's nobody, not even Marty, who has been able to work out to fix it, it's being replaced. As it was getting late in the day, mate's task for tomorrow is to remove the sub, CD changer, trim and sound deadening to get to the DSP amp and connector and I'll go over there again in a few days to spend a happy hour or three sitting in the boot with cutters, strippers and soldering iron....

There's a bit I could do with that I suspect would be ideal to be printed. If you weren't aware I've got a 1990 Maserati and that has, or should have, a plastic bush fitted into a bracket around the base of the steering column just before it goes through the bulkhead. It breaks and falls out so allows the lower part of the column to flop around from side to side so not good for steering precision. Problem is, they are no longer available and I can't find anyone that has one that could be copied. All I've got is a pretty poor picture from the parts manual. I've been told by a specialist that if I could get them printed it would be worth doing at least 20 as virtually every owner would want one.

Part number 10 is the bush but I doubt you'd be able to do anything from this.....

It's very quiet and you probably don't notice it over the sound of the ABS and EAS pumps.

When working correctly, the HEVAC drives the motor whichever way it needs to go to increase or decrease the temperature. However, it relies on getting feedback from the pot so it knows what position it is in. If it doesn't see a signal from the feedback pot, it logs the error and doesn't try to move it again. When you first turn the ignition on, it drives all 3 blend motors from one end of their travel to the other. If it doesn't see full movement, or any at all from any of the 3, it won't try to use that one again and will turn the book symbol on.

If you are fitting the same one back it won't need calibrating and if you've given the feedback pot a good squirt of contact cleaner you may find it will now work. If it doesn't you need to replace it with a blend motor, the 5 wire version.

So how robust is the printed result Dave? Having got mine out of the car to take the photos of it, I noticed it was a bit sticky inside where I'd obviously split something in it. Rather than wash it I was feeling lazy so bunged it in the dishwasher. It's just been handed to me (with the comment of, "and what was this doing in my dishwasher?") and it's changed colour. It's gone a sort of cloudy grey colour. Clean though.....