Power for the fuel flap comes from Fuse 14 but there is no relay involved (well there is but it's an internal one inside the BeCM). Button would have been in the instrument panel surround to the left. It doesn't lock as such, when you poke the button, it pops open so it isn't the same as some cars that have to be opened, it does that for you. If you take the instrument panel surround off you should find the connector for the pushbutton (black 5 way connector with only 2 wires into it, a Black and a Light Green/Grey) dangling in there somewhere. With the ignition off, it you short those two wires together you should hear the filler flap release grunt at you.

Grizzly wrote:

Turned the key and got engine disabled message, press button. It never gave me the EKA message.

So I pressed the unlock button and she fired up with the key !!!!

Passive immobilisation is still enabled in the BeCM. If you unlock it but don't start it within 30 seconds, the immobiliser (but not the alarm) kicks in again so you need to press unlock on the fob, to turn the immobiliser off before starting it. From about 97 onwards they fitted a coil around the ignition lock that caused the fob to transmit the unlock code as soon as you put the key in the ignition so it did it for you but yours, being a very early car, won't have that. The coil regularly fails anyway so it stops working. Once you get it on the road and can get it near to someone with a Nanocom, that 'feature' can be turned off so it doesn't matter. With it turned off, once unlocked you can start it no matter how long you wait before trying to start it. It can be a bit of a pain if you unlock it to put your shopping in the boot and find the immobiliser has kicked in again when you come to start it. Admittedly, I got into the habit of pressing unlock as I put the key in the ignition anyway (as my coil failed long ago) until I got the Nano and turned it off.

Maybe there was nothing wrong with the petrol flap release. It will only open with the ignition off and if someone didn't realise that and tried opening it while the ignition was on, then it won't open so they forced it and broke the clip.

The front fascia pulls off, then you can use either the proper Clarion tools or a pair of feeler gauges.

Try entering the EKA now you have it and the hazards flash when you turn the key. Early cars didn't need the 4 turns to lock to initialise it, so you just enter the first number by turning to unlock (clockwise). If the number is 1234, that is 1 turn to unlock, 2 turns to lock, 3 turns to unlock, 4 turns to lock, then to unlock and all your doors should pop open. Do it slowly and deliberately, making sure you fully return the key to the centre position between each turn and make sure the hazards flash on each turn. If it accepts the EKA, then you will be able to sync the fob too. In fact, if it accepts the EKA you may find you no longer get the engine immobilised message so can put the starter relay back in and start it on the key.

Oddly, they seem to be available in Portugal.......

http://www.oliveiravalentimlda.com/BTR4428-Clip-finisher-lower-Range-Rover

I'm thinking that somehow the ECU has been frigged so it is enabled as soon as the ignition is turned on (ECU from a Morgan perhaps?) but as soon as the key is turn to the starter position a code is sent which is wrong so it is then immobilised. Normally a ground from teh ignition switch goes to the BeCM and, assuming it is happy and the immobiliser isn't triggered, that ground is passed to the fusebox to energise RL16 and fire up the starter. So I suspect the pushbutton is bypassing the BeCM and applying a ground directly to RL16.

I suppose it's possible that the ECU is already enabled so it is only the BeCM that thinks it is immobilised. In which case, entering the EKA should enable it. Have you got the EKA yet?

You'd only need to put RTV around the top of the A pillar if the windscreen has previously been replaced by a cowboy who didn't do it properly. So that was probably advice from .net where nobody seems capable of doing anything properly.

If there is a spurious wire connected to pin 26 (second in on the top row with a black wire) on the middle, red, connector to the ECU, that may be very relevant as that is the mobilise pin that gets a code from the BeCM when the immobiliser is turned off. There was an Australian company that did a unit that sent the code irrespective of the alarm state but I would have thought you would have found another box lurking somewhere.

The connections under the header tank connect some of the underbonnet wiring to the rest of the car, it carries things like the ignition switched supplies, the oil pressure and temp senders back to the BeCM, that sort of thing. Whip the lid off the ECU box and see if there is anything in there other than the ECU. There's 3 big plugs go to the ECU, so if you identify which plug and which colour wire, it should be possible to identify what circuit things are connected to.

Afraid I have no idea what is going on there. Just checked my 96 and the wiring to those two plugs under the header tank look original but the bit coming out of the ECU box isn't. You've got the alarm sounder disconnected too......

That's it, that ain't standard. Normally the wiring in the rubber tube goes straight into the ECU box with nothing coming off at that point.

Standard early GEMS but with the tell tale sign of a bunch of additional wiring going into the ECU loom. See the wiring coming out of the tape by the input to the ECU box, that isn't standard so where does that additional wiring go? If it had LPG, it could be the wiring for that but it hasn't......

You got it, there is a flat on the shaft that the grub screw needs to bear on. If the grub screw is screwed in part way then the crank will only slide onto the shaft with the screw against the flat so then you just tighten it.

The faint glow is very faint, you need to let your eyes get used to the dark. The faint glow tells you that the BeCM is powered and awake, if you do nothing for 2 minutes the BeCM goes to sleep and the light goes out. So you need to do something to cause it to wake in the first place, like open or close the door or turn the ignition on and off again. 2 minutes after waking it, it will go to sleep if it detects nothing and the light goes out.

It's not so much the cable as the laptop you use. The cable is serial comms so ideally you need an old laptop with a serial (9 pin) port but that means very old so you usually need to use a USB to serial adapter which is where the problems start. Some work better than others, if you get one with an FTDI chipset it is likely to be more reliable.

The code is sent to the ECU when you turn the ignition on to position 2 so everything powers up and the Check Engine light comes on. When you turn to position 3 to start it, the BeCM decides if it is immobilised or not and, if not, commands the starter relay to pull in and operate the starter. That bit is easy, to operate the starter all you need so is ground one side of the starter relay. It's the immobilising side of things that are intriguing.

Once the EAS is back together, chances are it won't do anything. It's telling you it has a fault so it will shut down until the fault is cleared. You might be very lucky and find it just starts up and works but doubtful. You will need a cable and the free software to read and clear the fault (or the assistance of someone nearby with a Nanocom or similar).

Getting the starter to spin is the easy bit, but if the alarm LED is still on and the dash is telling you the engine is immobilised, then that means the engine ECU hasn't received the correct code from the BeCM so there shouldn't be any sparks or fuel. The ECU won't power itself up until it sees the code. Easy to see if it is powered, does the Check Engine light come on when the ignition is turned on? That's the usual tell tale if sync between BeCM and ECU has been lost, no Check Engine light. You can get a stand alone GEMS ECU that doesn't need to see the code but you're looking at 500 notes and I can't see anyone going to that kind of expense on an older P38. Marty is the only one that may have a clue what is going on here.

If it is the screws I'm thinking of and the panel I think you mean (the one you need to remove), the screws are behind the rubber door seal.

Normally I would just replace the carrier, as Clive says, they aren't expensive, but I was doing the job on the Saturday of a bank holiday weekend. I wasn't going to put it back together with a seized pin and if I'd ordered a new carrier it wouldn't have arrived until the following Wednesday at the earliest. Being without a P38 fix for 4 days just wasn't an option.....

Indicators flashing when you lock and unlock is normal so something is improving.

You only get Keycode Lockout if the BeCM is in an alarmed state and the battery is reconnected. It goes out after 10 minutes n an early car, 30 minutes on a later one.

Easy way to check if the receiver is working is to sit in the car in the dark, close the door and look at the LED next to the gear lever (the one that shows what gear you are in). It will be glowing very dimly (that's why you need to wait until it is dark). 2 minutes after you close the door, the light should go out completely. Press a button on the fob. If the light comes back on glowing dimly, the receiver is seeing the signal from the fob, if it doesn't come back on, it isn't. The receiver isn't under the steering wheel but under the RH side rear panel. Drop the back seat and you should see a screw holding the front of the shelf panel in, take that out and lift the panel, the receiver is the small box sitting under there. It has two plugs going into it, a 3 way and a single blue wire. Make sure they are both plugged in. When you put the panel back down, make sure the pushbutton to release the rear seat pokes through the hole and doesn't fall down inside.

The message on the dash, engine immobilised, etc measn it shouldn't allow the starter yto turn to the pushbutton has obviously been put there to bypass that. However, if immobilised there should also be no power to the engine ECU so it shouldn't start. God knows what has been done there.....

EAS error will always be accompanied by 35 mph max, so that is nothing to worry about until you get the EAS working as it should. ABS light stays on until you reach 5 mph and the system has checked for valid rotation of all 4 wheels, so if you aren't going anywhere it will stay on. SRS fault means that it has detected a fault but it may have been cleared. Early cars need the fault to be read and cleared even if the fault that was logged has been cleared. Usual problem is if you switched the ignition on with any of the SRS wiring (the stuff in bright yellow sheathing) disconnected.