Are you testing directly to the solenoids or via the driver pack? Doing it via the driver pack is the best test as it tests both the solenoid and the pack.

I posted how to test here https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/clarification-on-testing-a-solenoid.342547/#post-2305928

Morat, If I log in now, do you want to try it and see how it works for you?

When you step the valves one step at a time from the Heights tab, do you hear the solenoid click? Two things can cause a circuit to go down, either a dead output from the driver pack or a dodgy connection in the plug between the driver pack and the valve block. If you've got a spare driver pack, swapping them over and giving the connector a good squirt of contact cleaner, should sort it out. Once you've done it a couple of times, you should be able to swap a valve block and driver pack in about 10 minutes.

Not tried it but Jitsi seems to work very well, every bit as good as Microsoft Teams which I was using at work. I think it works fine for anyone that has previously used anything else (Teams, Skype, Zoom, etc) just not if there is something in the setup of the computer being used so it wouldn't work no matter what platform is being used.

Clive could be seen and heard but the audio was very muffled and quiet, David we could see was there showing the camera icon but with a line through it but no audio at all.

Up and running but with nobody other than me there....

Not regularly but it doesn't completely depressurise the springs, it just lets enough air out for the height sensors to say it is down to just touching the bumpstops. Only time I've used it is to lock the car in access for some of the very low height clearance multi storey car parks in France.

As far as battery removal is concerned, it will come back in teh state it was in when it was disconnected. So as long as it was unlocked and un-immobilised when you took it off, it will still be the same when you put it back. You may need to sync the fob but even that may have been saved.

My car is at 397,200 miles and only one of the wheel bearings has been replaced, the other 3 are original. Wait until/if they start to rumble.

Gordon isn't about but he's given me permission to become the host. Link is the same as last time https://jitsi.gjcp.net/rrpubjune and if it asks for a password, it will be rrpubjune again. I know it's July now but I'm afraid if I try to change anything I'll break it......

Will be up and running from 21:30 UK time, so that's 06:30 in Oz, sometime this afternoon in the US and late last night or very early tomorrow morning for George......

Sounds like the TPS isn't returning to the default closed throttle position meaning either a failing TPS or you got too enthusiastic when you adjusted the throttle cable. The Engine ECU will have a memorised voltage for the TPS at a closed throttle so if it is seeing a higher voltage it assumes you have opened the throttle slightly so opens the IACV to raise the revs. Apparently the throttle cable adjustment is pretty critical on a Thor and needs to be done by the book.

Maybe because yours is NAS spec but what's the pipe stuck in the red bit next to the PCV? On a UK car that is normally blanked off or is that part of the mod?

It's the colour that they called Tan originally and then called it Walnut on later cars but it looks much the same. It was the standard interior colour for Epson Green exterior except for the higher spec cars (SE and HSE) that got Light Stone Beige instead. No idea why but I have heard Tan referred to as dog poo brown so maybe that was it?

No you haven't, it'll be 21:30 tonight UK time if Gordon sets it up (or do we use the same link and login as ;last time?).

That would do it. Calliper carriers are cheap, about £12 each and are a lot easier than freeing off seized pins. When desperate I've drilled a 5mm hole in the carrier directly behind the pin, tapped an M6 thread in it, filled it full of Plus Gas and let it soak for a while then screwed a bolt in to push the pin out. But at £12, it really isn't worth the effort. More likely the pistons have seized so will need pumping out, cleaning up with very fine wet and dry and new seals fitting. Last time I looked a set of Britpart seals were about £3.50 while for around double that you could get TRW ones. Discs are pretty thick so should be OK and you'd have known if it was an ABS issue as the light on the dash would be flashing. The only other time I've known a brake to stick on badly was after someone had used a hose clamp on the brake hose and the inner had collapsed so wasn't allowing the fluid to flow back.

That's interesting, the 97 4.0SE UK spec car I used to have had electric seats (but not memory, that along came with the HSE), yet the 99 French spec Diesel I look after has manual seats in tan leather. I always assumed it was a base spec that had been fitted with leather seats on the original manual bases. Seems there's a few trim differences between markets.

Arnotts are only considered cool in the US where anything with Made in USA on it is regarded as vastly superior to anything made anywhere else even when it isn't. I've imported about 30, mostly European built, cars from the US over the last 10 years and spent many hours removing 'upgrades' to make thing work properly.

The Gen 111s give extra suspension travel if you really need it (and most people don't) but the Gen11s are best known for falling apart. A lifetime warranty is all very well but not if you have to fall back on it regularly, you want something that just works as it should all the time.

It isn't whether the compressor blows enough air or not but does it generate enough pressure. It should output around 150 psi so if you can put your finger over the output and keep it there, it isn't giving enough.

Gen 11s have a reputation for coming apart and dropping you to the bumpstops at the least convenient moment, and they are a lot more expensive than Dunlops and don't really give you anything extra other than unreliability. The floppy ring is plastic so won't short anything out.

Is that Thursday in Tasmania so Wednesday evening here, or Thursday here?

Dave at East Coast is a fantastic guy to deal with, I've had quite a few bits from him for assorted cars, everything from bits of trim and a sunroof cassette to a complete 4.6 engine. He may be the best part of 100 miles from me but worth the drive. He buys P38's and, depending on the state of them either dismantles them for spares or restores them to near new condition.