leolito wrote:
ahahahahahahahaha .... you're good!
My remote(s) have not worked in three years. Now I wait like a kid on Xmas eve the arrival of a certain box from UK ...In any case I consider silly a car with a single access point ... never saw anything wrong with two locks on opposite handles :-)
I doubt you'll find any car from about 1995 onwards that has the spurious, wasted, additional expense of a lock on both front doors. Why would a manufacturer fit a lock, not a cheap part in their eyes, when it isn't needed? Nissan fit one on the passenger side (on a RHD car) beneath a flap so you don't even know it is there, Renault only ever fit one on the LH side too.
You've managed 3 years without the flimsy, emergency use only, linkage from falling apart? You've been extremely lucky.
I've probably used the key in the door lock on my car maybe half a dozen times in the 10 years I've owned it. In fact the last time I did, when we were trying an experiment regarding needing the EKA after it had been entered with the Nanocom, it was stiff an gritty from lack of use. Lubed it so it wouldn't seize up completely in case I ever did need to use it.
I followed what you were trying to do Pierre, but the idea of a lock on both sides came up. It is the CDL switch in the latch that triggers the central locking but when you use the key to unlock it the BeCM sees a signal from both the keyswitch (detecting the key being turned in the lock) and the CDL to trigger the central locking. As long as the BeCM sees both, all is fine. If there is even anywhere to connect a lock linkage to a passenger side door latch, all it will do is operate the CDL switch. In that case the BeCM sees the CDL switch operating but not the keyswitch so it assumes someone has smashed a window, lifted up the sill locking button to unlock the door so sets off the alarm and disables the engine.
I don't think you can, Marty will be able to confirm, but I don't think the passenger door has the keyswitch in it, only the CDL and Door Ajar switch. If you swapped the latches as well it might be possible. Why do you need door locks anyway? You just press the button on the remote......
Give them a bell and speak to David Ashcroft. I've dealt with them a couple of times and they are extremely helpful.
Yes and yes. OBD is showing the correct temperature, it's just the gauge that may not be. Although the gauge only covers a very short range so it may not be getting hot enough to register. The gauge tends to only read between 80 and 120 degrees.
Part number for a RH handle for a LHD car is ALR8124, but, as you say, Rimmers won't let you buy it without a VIN for some reason. Looks like Brit-Car will https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/101718/4439/door_handle_exterior_right_hand_left_hand_drive_p38_range_rover and so will Land Rover Classic https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/alr8124-handle-assembly-front-door.html.
There's two temp senders. A Black one, which on an early car usually has only 1 wire to it, which drives the engine ECU and is what the OBD is reporting, and a green one with two wires that drives the temperature gauge via the BeCM. Short out the plug to the green one and see if the gauge rises to the hot position. It's damped so will take a little while.
Purely the horns. I suspect someone pulled it out to stop the alarm before realising the alarm has a separate sounder.
Hmm, that won't help.....
Info button probably hasn't been used for many years so a squirt of contact cleaner inside the switch might be needed, same goes for the speed limit button. If the horn doesn't work, and as you have an SRS fault showing, the rotary coupler behind the steering wheel could be damaged. That carries the wires from the buttons on the steering wheel (and to the drivers airbag) to the rest of the world.
i is for info, press that and it shows Range, Average MPG, Average speed, Trip 2, and then back to Trip. The Bell symbol is for a speed warning, press once to to it on, press and hold and the speed you have selected for the warning, increments in 5MPH steps, release it when it shows the speed you want it to warn you when you hit it (actually it goes off about 3mph below). Press it again and it turns it off. Scared me sh*tless one day. Missus was driving through Poland while I was gently snoozing in the passenger seat when I was woken by a continuous beep, beep, beep from the dash. Told her to pull over immediately but the dash showed no faults. Turned out that she had accidentally pressed the button and had turned the speed limit warning on. As it had never been used, it was set at 20mph so as soon as she exceeded 20mph the dash started beeping constantly. Just in case she did it again, I set it at 90 mph.....
For cruise, which you do have as the bellows can be seen just behind the EAS box with the cable running to the throttle. You will have a button marked with a Motorway symbol next to the EAS rocker and hazard switch, that turns on the cruise control. You then use the left button on the steering wheel to set the speed and the right button to disengage it. It will also disengage if you touch the brake pedal. However, it won't work. It is driven by a small vacuum pump and you will see a couple of short hoses and a Tee piece on the back of the bellows. These hoses will almost certainly be perished and split at the Tee. One of the hoses runs to a switch on the brake pedal, that one either splits at the switch or where it passes through the bulkhead (or both). Hoses are 6mm ID and, other than getting a replacement through the bulkhead and getting your hands onto the brake pedal switch (not a lot of room), simple enough to replace.
Inside the hole you should see the splash shield so you aren't looking at the rockers. Mine used to be a 50/50 chance whether the cap or the whole thing would unscrew so I cleaned up the threads in the rocker cover, degreased the funnel part and put it back with a slobber of Loctite. There should be a couple of lugs inside it that you can lever against the screw it in good and tight (or use to hold it steady so you can unscrew the cap).
Can't give you a cam recommendation but cam bearings are supplied undersized, fitted and the block then line bored so not something that you can do with the engine in situ.
Obviously a diesel thing, but it does say to leave it for 5 minutes for the oil to all drain back to the sump. I can't see it will make much difference to the level hot or cold.
I'd go for the Intermotor or Allmakes if it were me
https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR6045-Coil-Pack-4-Plugs-Ds2-V8-2-Requi/
Yes, the Thor coil packs are two dual ended coils in one block, so yes, it does sound like it's new coil pack time.
Most threads do when they get to more than a couple of pages, as long as the original question was answered/problem identified who cares where it goes from there? As the name of this place suggests, it's a virtual pub, wander in, sit down, ask your question then get involved in a bit of banter and conversation that may well go off on a tangent. Difference here compared with .net is that nobody gets a bollocking and their post removed for taking a thread off topic. I'm trying to take a few threads off topic to see if one of the other mods bollocks me......
From the Nanocom GEMS manual:
Short term idle (steps): This is the value that the GEMS use’s to regulate the current idle speed
to take into account current engine load, temperature etc. It can be manually altered here may
later be changed by GEMS. The value is in steps and it can be a number between 0 and 255.
Long term idle: This is the value that the GEMS learns over a period of time to take into account
manufacturers tolerances on components which affect overall idle speed. This value cannot be
modified, but it can be reset, forcing the GEMS to re-learn this value.
So don't worry about it. If you reset the adaptive values it will reset but will then learn and set itself where it needs to be.
Vacuum cleaner down the hole where the pollen filter goes or just whack the fans on flat out so it chops the leaves into little bits.
Don't understand? Are you talking about long and short term fuel trims (LTFT and STFT)? 20 to 36 on the IACV is correct at idle but it should go up under acceleration as it opens up to give a cleaner pick up as you open the throttle.
If you mean the one on the opposite side to the throttle body, no. Then there's the one from the other rocker cover into the throttle body, that often goes all squishy and horrible as well as the little one that is hidden..