It may just be where it came apart and hasn't seated fully yet. Might be worth putting it on high and seeing if that lets it seal.

That's good. That is a danger if you jack the car up on the chassis with little or no air in the air springs. If the car is lifted with the suspension on high, it isn't a problem but with no air in it's always going to be a toss up over whether the air spring inflates or it pulls apart.

I usually jack on the axles but if I do need to lift the car I put the suspension on high first. Once went to have tyres fitted and one of the fitters, being familiar with EAS, stopped his mate from jacking it up on the chassis until the suspension had been put on high.

Welcome, you're not the only one that uses their car all the time. I set off in mine at 08;00 on Friday and stopped driving it at 01:30 Sunday morning, continuous for 41.5 hours, except for fuel and food stops......

Despite what some people think, they can be reliable if you look after them and you'll find the people to help you keep them that way on here.

Earlier versions didn't have it but the air filter air intake was next to the exhaust manifold to raise the temperature of the incoming air. It isn't at a cold start where it does anything, it's once you get moving. If the ambient temperature is below or slightly above freezing, the incoming air is accelerated through the throttle body so cools down further. If it is damp, such as on a foggy day, the moisture in the incoming air freezes and blocks the intake or jams your throttle. Which is why people have had problems when cruising, cold, damp air going in, being cooled by the acceleration and turning to a block of ice inside the throttle body.

Plod made up a bracket and mounted it to the top of the suspension turret for the extra fuses, relay and split charge relay. It has also been used to mount the Pitagora injector emulators for he LPG system.

and at some point we'll get the LPG system back on and reconnected.....

Damn lockdown!

Never known one burst, not even a cheap knock off, that just leaked as there was only one O ring where the pipe goes in. Where did it burst? I've always got them from Island4x4.

I've filled mine up about 20 times in the last week and a bit and the consumption has varied between 15 and 20 mpg depending on how and where I've been driving it. Variation in prices is pretty interesting, France, 1 Euro a litre (Ouch! so didn't fill up there), Belgium, 44 Euro cents, Holland, 62 Euro cents, Germany, varies a lot between 45 and 65 Euro cents. Then we get to Poland which is interesting. They don't use the Euro but the Zloty which is 4.78 Zloty to the pound and at the first filling station over the border, LPG is priced at 2.99 Zloty, working out to 62p a litre. However, this is the only place in the country charging that much as all of the others are between 1.85 and 2.05, so between 39 and 43p per litre, much better. Into Lithuania and back into Euros and it was 55 cents and finally in Latvia it is 52.5 cents virtually everywhere.

Interestingly, I seemed to get better economy running on the Propane/Butane mix that most countries supply, compared with the 100% Propane we get here.

Well today all I've done is empty an awful lot of rubbish out of it (sweet wrappers, empty Monster energy drink cans, chocolate wrappers, etc) and take a couple of photos. However, since Friday morning I've driven it and filled the LPG tank lots of times. In the last week and a bit I've opened the bonnet twice, once after my first 1600 miles to see if the coolant or oil levels had dropped, which they hadn't, and again this morning to check the same thing and they still haven't.

Killed lots of bugs in the meantime though.....

Got back home in the early hours of this morning, not a bad road trip......

True, you can actually see the bolt you are trying to undo then.

What happens is the plastic plungers on the microswitches start to wear so there's less travel on them. When it's hot and things expand slightly, then the gap opens up but once they wear a bit more then they'll do it no matter what the temperature.

Not the nicest thing to drive without a trailer but with it was horrible. The suspension is far too soft and with the towbar attached to the body and the only thing connecting the body with the wheels were springs and dampers resembling jelly, it wallowed around all over the place. At the time I had arranged to borrow the LSE that I subsequently bought but it broke down on the owner so I needed something rapidly, like in 3 days time, and the Explorer was the right price and local. The breakdown on the LSE allowed me to knock a few quid off the already cheap deal I'd negotiated, so I fixed it on his driveway and drove it home.....

He will, it'll get worse......

StrangeRover wrote:

What made you swap it for a P38?

Simple, EAS. I got fed up with the headlights pointing skyward with a trailer on it, I changed the springs for stiffer ones on the back which improved that but made the ride terrible without a trailer and too much of the EAS had been removed to make putting it back viable. I needed something that could tow a fully loaded 3.5 tonne trailer and could also be used as an everyday car. I also wanted something that wasn't dissolving around me, I don't mind rebuilding mechanical bits but my welding skills are crap. Bought a Ford Exploder and used it once on a towing trip and put it up for sale the moment I got back, terrible thing to tow with and only plated for 2.8 tonnes. Had a Disco at work and it was too agricultural to use as an everyday car, so a Range Rover it had to be. Figured that if they are good enough for the Queen, they should be good enough for me.

Teddy Bear seats and a manual box, eek! At least the LSE had leather and a 4HP22. I bought if from a mate of a mate and he'd had the rear crossmember and sills done before I got it so the chassis was solid, but the body was pretty grim. Both rear door inner shells had big holes in them and there wasn't a lot of the inner wings left either. It looked OK from the outside but the closer you looked the more rot you found.

You wouldn't when you see how quickly they rust..... It was a good old bus, 4.2 Iceberg version of the P38 engine, so the first with the cross bolted mains, and would sit at cruising speed forever. When I first got the P38 I couldn't understand why it felt so sluggish after the LSE then realised the P38 has twice the throttle pedal travel so I wasn't giving it as much welly.

I kept the LSE for a couple of years after getting the P38 as I didn't trust the P38 as far as I could throw it initially. Came in handy when the Yanks put two cars we'd imported on the wrong ship, one that wasn't docking in the UK, so we had to drive to Rotterdam to collect them.

I was told it was to leave the right hand free to use your sword or lance against someone coming the other way. The countries that drive on the right can blame it on Napoleon being left handed and hating the British so went for the opposite side. The British influence is why places like South Africa, India and some of the former British owned bits of Africa still drive on the correct side of the road, although quite why the Japs do I have no idea.

Yes, heated cloth seats, so the only dangling plug(s) are the two for the seat heaters. MXC2112LNF is the part number for Front, Manual, Heated, Ash Grey Cloth but that is listed as only up to VIN WA376579 yet my VIN is WA 381091 but as it was a special order spec for the police, it could have any options that weren't available on production models. Despite the poverty spec interior, I've got the front fogs and headlamp wash/wipe which a base model wouldn't have, along with the 7" x 16" wheels which were only fitted to a base spec rather than the 8" x 16" or 8" x 18" that all the others came with.

Looking at the BeCM connections for C912, the supply for the seat heaters as well as the power for the electric seats all come off that one socket. I suspect I've got a loom that only contains the seat heater wiring and not the full set.

Easiest place, and closest to the instrument cluster, would be the white wire that goes to the EAS inhibit switch which comes directly from F17. It feeds the inhibit switch, the height switch, the HEVAC and brake light switch and is fused at 10A.