Dunno, but they always say to put them in dry.

It's this one that can often leak when you do a rebuild.

Working from the back of the car, on the top you have the diaphragm valve, Left Rear, Front Right, Inlet Valve, Exhaust Valve while on the underside you have Right Rear at the back and Left Front next to the relief valve and pressure switch.

The ones that can cause problems are the very thin ones around the base of the plungers. They should be assembled dry though.....

I don't think a 5 pin will fit but a 4 pin will. What that does is stop the EAS from waking up every so often and self levelling as it will only be powered up while the ignition is on. It also stops diagnostics from connecting.

It's self levelling. When parked it will always lower the other 3 corners to match the lowest one. This is why people say to take the timer relay out as that causes it to self level every 6 hours or so. So if you have a leak on one corner, by the time it has been left overnight, it is down on it's knees. With the timer relay out, only the corner with the leak drops so you know which one it is. There's some small, very thin, O rings on the valve block that go round the base of the solenoid spindle and these can pop out of their grooves when you put it together. That will cause it to drop on one corner. You will be able to see which one with your soapy water as you'll see bubbles from the base of the solenoid. Only problem is, if it is the rear right, that is one of the two on the bottom of the valve block.

I always test for leaks before putting the valve block in. Short length of 6mm pipe with one of my emergency Schrader valve fittings on the end, put that in the output hole that would go to the air spring and put a tyre pump on it. Run that for a couple of seconds and it'll be up to 150 psi (or whatever your pump can manage), then see if it holds the pressure or if it drops. In fact you can do that test with the valve block in place, you just need to put pressure into it through the hole where the pipe to the right rear should go.

With no leaks it should stay at the height it was at when switched off. You might hear a tick, tick, tick from the valve block as it settles to the correct height but after that it shouldn't move. It sounds like you have a leak somewhere, only slight, but enough to let the air out.

Brass springy bits at the top. Or at least they were on the one we did a couple of weeks ago.

It may just be where it came apart and hasn't seated fully yet. Might be worth putting it on high and seeing if that lets it seal.

That's good. That is a danger if you jack the car up on the chassis with little or no air in the air springs. If the car is lifted with the suspension on high, it isn't a problem but with no air in it's always going to be a toss up over whether the air spring inflates or it pulls apart.

I usually jack on the axles but if I do need to lift the car I put the suspension on high first. Once went to have tyres fitted and one of the fitters, being familiar with EAS, stopped his mate from jacking it up on the chassis until the suspension had been put on high.

Welcome, you're not the only one that uses their car all the time. I set off in mine at 08;00 on Friday and stopped driving it at 01:30 Sunday morning, continuous for 41.5 hours, except for fuel and food stops......

Despite what some people think, they can be reliable if you look after them and you'll find the people to help you keep them that way on here.

Earlier versions didn't have it but the air filter air intake was next to the exhaust manifold to raise the temperature of the incoming air. It isn't at a cold start where it does anything, it's once you get moving. If the ambient temperature is below or slightly above freezing, the incoming air is accelerated through the throttle body so cools down further. If it is damp, such as on a foggy day, the moisture in the incoming air freezes and blocks the intake or jams your throttle. Which is why people have had problems when cruising, cold, damp air going in, being cooled by the acceleration and turning to a block of ice inside the throttle body.

Plod made up a bracket and mounted it to the top of the suspension turret for the extra fuses, relay and split charge relay. It has also been used to mount the Pitagora injector emulators for he LPG system.

and at some point we'll get the LPG system back on and reconnected.....

Damn lockdown!

Never known one burst, not even a cheap knock off, that just leaked as there was only one O ring where the pipe goes in. Where did it burst? I've always got them from Island4x4.

I've filled mine up about 20 times in the last week and a bit and the consumption has varied between 15 and 20 mpg depending on how and where I've been driving it. Variation in prices is pretty interesting, France, 1 Euro a litre (Ouch! so didn't fill up there), Belgium, 44 Euro cents, Holland, 62 Euro cents, Germany, varies a lot between 45 and 65 Euro cents. Then we get to Poland which is interesting. They don't use the Euro but the Zloty which is 4.78 Zloty to the pound and at the first filling station over the border, LPG is priced at 2.99 Zloty, working out to 62p a litre. However, this is the only place in the country charging that much as all of the others are between 1.85 and 2.05, so between 39 and 43p per litre, much better. Into Lithuania and back into Euros and it was 55 cents and finally in Latvia it is 52.5 cents virtually everywhere.

Interestingly, I seemed to get better economy running on the Propane/Butane mix that most countries supply, compared with the 100% Propane we get here.

Well today all I've done is empty an awful lot of rubbish out of it (sweet wrappers, empty Monster energy drink cans, chocolate wrappers, etc) and take a couple of photos. However, since Friday morning I've driven it and filled the LPG tank lots of times. In the last week and a bit I've opened the bonnet twice, once after my first 1600 miles to see if the coolant or oil levels had dropped, which they hadn't, and again this morning to check the same thing and they still haven't.

Killed lots of bugs in the meantime though.....

Got back home in the early hours of this morning, not a bad road trip......

True, you can actually see the bolt you are trying to undo then.

What happens is the plastic plungers on the microswitches start to wear so there's less travel on them. When it's hot and things expand slightly, then the gap opens up but once they wear a bit more then they'll do it no matter what the temperature.

Not the nicest thing to drive without a trailer but with it was horrible. The suspension is far too soft and with the towbar attached to the body and the only thing connecting the body with the wheels were springs and dampers resembling jelly, it wallowed around all over the place. At the time I had arranged to borrow the LSE that I subsequently bought but it broke down on the owner so I needed something rapidly, like in 3 days time, and the Explorer was the right price and local. The breakdown on the LSE allowed me to knock a few quid off the already cheap deal I'd negotiated, so I fixed it on his driveway and drove it home.....