We got proper full fat leaded petrol up until about 1985 (so long before Strange Rover was born) when they phased it out. Didn't really cause too many problems. The odd car needed the ignition timing backing off by a couple of degrees while even fewer needed to have the valve seats replaced. Things like the original BL A series had the valve seats cut directly into the cast iron head so they had to have harder valve seats fitted.
The amusing thing about those three articles linked to is that the information all comes from the same bloke. So in the first one he's saying that it could result in a lean mixture leading to burnt valves and holed pistons (but does talk about carburettors so for anyone using a car still fitted with them will only need to adjust it, or at worst, change a jet or two), in the second one he talks about it attacking the rubber in the fuel system, which is absolutely correct which is why anything built since 2000 doesn't have any rubber in the fuel system (so all that anyone really worried about it would need to do would be to replace any rubber fuel hoses with hose made since 2000) and then in the third article he says it isn't a problem despite what other experts are saying. He obviously didn't realise that he is the other experts (or strictly speaking, expert, singular) so is disagreeing with himself.
He appears to be the classic definition of an expert, ex - former or has been, spurt - drip under pressure.
Of course if anyone is really worried about it, just call in at your local airfield and fill up with 101 Octane Avgas......
Seat needs to come out and the base is held to the frame with 4 Torx headed bolts (smaller than the ones that hold the seat in).
In the process of refurbishing a 2001 4.6 Vogue (OldShep's old car which two of us have rescued and are returning to it's original glory). When I picked it up as soon as I touched the brake pedal I got ABS Fault and Traction Failure pop up on the dash although the Nano showed no stored faults. It had recently had a new rear calliper fitted and it hadn't been bled properly so that has now been done (along with a matching new rear calliper on the other side) but when I checked with the Nano it shows all four wheels doing 1.7 kph while standing still??? As my mate was doing the drivers seat and steering wheel, wasn't able to drive it slowly to see if the problem was still there but why would it think it was moving when it isn't? It's the Wabco D system with 4 wheel traction control if that makes any difference.
My drivers seat base had suffered from having a policeman sat in it all day every day for 8 years. I found a matching interior and put the passenger base on my drivers seat. Bases are interchangeable while backs aren't (they would be except for the armrest).
I've got two (or maybe 4, I don't remember) but they are knackered and cloth. The ones I don't remember about are a pair of decent bases I was supplied with by an eBay seller that were a different colour to the ones they showed on their advert, so didn't match my seats. I don't remember if I bunged them in my lockup garage or a skip when I moved house. They will be fine if you just need the base and foam.
I used to run 10W-40 (or maybe 15W-40) but when I went to V9 Developments I they asked what oil I had been using and they said it was too thin. Now I run 10W-60 Castrol fully synth and change every 10,000 miles.
That's spot on except for point 8. Don't delete any of the wording that appears in the link and the picture will appear, delete any of the text and all that appears is the words, Enter image description here. The other thing that catches people out is in imgur, the second box down, marked Direct Link, is the one you want but when you click the Copy button next to it, it doesn't automatically copy the link, it just highlights it so you still have to right click on the highlighted bit and click Copy.
After our 'discussion' on the other side, that isn't at all what I was expecting to see Jesse. Very, very nice.
I've got a local auto electrician who is a dying breed in as much as he repairs things rather than replacing them who will almost certainly have them on his shelf. I can call in and ask him but it won't be until Friday. Diode went short circuit in the alternator on my 1990 Maserati. Took the alternator in to him and picked it up two hours later with a replacement diode pack, cost £60. Much better than the £700 Maserati wanted for a replacement alternator......
I've now found the diagram you mention in the Description and Operation bit. I rarely look at that, I know how it works I need to know how to fix it so go straight to the Repairs section on everything. If there is a difference between Left and Right hand drive, there will be two pictures showing both variations such as with the brake pipe layout (even though in that case the labelling is wrong so it says it is for LHD vehicles but clearly shows the brake pedal on the RHS..
RAVE does tell you the colours of the plugs but only if you known how to read the ETM. For example, looking at the diagram it shows the the plug going to the front screen pump is C193, if you then look at the connection data for C193 it shows it as 2W-R, signifying two wires and coloured RED, you can then click on + next to C193 and it shows the front view and a photo of the location.
Non-return valve should be where the diagram shows it, against the bulkhead, behind the coolant header tank, the diagram also shows the pipe run.
Foglights are secured to the inside of the front bumper, two screws at the top that go in horizontally and two vertical ones at the bottom. Chances are they will be as seized, if not even more so, as the bumper bolts
Dunno what version of RAVE you are looking at but my version just says remove RH wheel arch liner? For left and right it is always as seen sitting in the drivers seat looking forwards so RH will always be the right side of the car irrespective of which side the driver sits. There's 3 identical pumps there but the easy way of identifying which is which is to look at the colour of the electrical plug, Red plug is front screen washer pump, White plug is Headlamp washer pump and Black plug is rear screen washer pump.
Yes, ABS sensor should just pull out although they do often put up a fight.
Put a couple of the bolts back in part way and belt them with a hammer. Not as effective as a sledge hammer on an old disc but usually works.
Not particularly, other than the odd local one arranged through PM, the only meetings have been the Summer Camps at Marty's workshop and they appear in Opening Time.
Yes, there's the Portal button to show any new posts since you last logged in and the forum headings also show if there's any new posts so a What's New topic would be a bit pointless. Unless you have a different idea of what it would be used for that is.
What would go in Whats New? Because it wouldn't be new in a couple of weeks? Maybe a Body and Interior section but not much more. If it's split down too much then most posts will be in the wrong place.....
Yes, it's a job for either engine out or gearbox off so if the box is coming off anyway, then that's the ideal time to do it.
What's your problem? Everywhere is showing it as in stock, you can even have a genuine LR one for under £40? https://www.lrdirect.com/PQR101150-Pulley-Aux.-Drive/
These https://www.workshopessentialsonline.com/product/cv-joint-boot-clips-clamps-x2-stainless-steel-universal-set-driveshaft-gator-8mm/ are the sort of clips that would have originally been on the CV joint gaiters.
One thing I noticed is that the ABS sensor wire looks very close to the air spring. Has it been moved or has someone routed it wrong?
Not on the list but I always take the radiator out too. With that out and the fan and viscous off, you've got acres of room at the front (and less chance of damaging the radiator). In case you may want to use the gearbox, jam a bit of wood into the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to stop the torque converter falling out of the gearbox.