No, it's fixed at both ends, it doesn't spin at all, the whole thing turns. All it does is flex when the steering is turned.

A tie wrap on the CV joint gaiter suggests someone did do some maintenance in the past. Original gaiters would have had one of these thin steel clamp thingies but replacement gaiters come with tie wraps, just replace it with another and pull it up a bit tighter.

1. The air springs start off thinner but get fatter with time due to being full of air that supports the weight of the car, so yes, they are correct.
2. When you do the wheel nuts up to 80 ft/lb, the disc will be held firmly against the hub, if it isn't warped, don't worry about it.
3. If there's no up and down movement they are fine. The rubber gaiters often split if a car has been left standing. The end sticks to the swivel so as soon as you turn the steering it rips the gaiter. Unfortunately an MoT fail (unless you get the Superglue out and un-split it.....).
4. The CV joint gaiters don't turn, or they do but both ends do along with the drive shaft. If it doesn't fall off and let all the grease out, it's fine. If it really worries you replace the clip.
5. The bushes were put on wrong when they were put in the box. Yes, the cone end does go towards each other and the washers go the other way up so the convex side is against the rubber bushes.

What amazes me is the amount of rust, normally everything is all black and oily from the Land Rover built in chassis lubrication system (aka front oil seal, rocker cover gaskets and anywhere else the engine can leak from). Those steering ball joints should never have passed an MoT in that state, they are well knackered......

Looks like the end of a radius arm to me.....

Huh? There wasn't a roll pin in either of the two I took apart. I bought a set of seats matching mine so I could do a mix and match with the best bits (drivers seat base had suffered a bit with a big fat copper sat in it for 8 years) and swapped the armrest over. That was just a case of undoing the bolt and off it came.

Good point, maybe we need an Interior and Trim section......

Gordon has been threatening to do an upgrade so that would be a good time.

Pull the plastic hinge cover off, it's just pushed in on a couple of pegs, and you'll see the bolt underneath that holds it on.

It didn't. The guy that owned it had only had it for 3 days when a bodged throttle body heater pipe burst and it lost most of the coolant and reduced the engine to scrap. It had been filled with plain water just to see if it would run again but with no compression at all on 6 cylinders and about 60 psi on the remaining two, we figured pulling it out and putting a replacement in was the best option. So a completely shot 4.0 litre came out and a very nice low mileage 4.6 went in. Took a weekend to do it but the results were definitely worth it.

Blanco wrote:

This is typical of what we get locally

A grand for something that can't even be driven? I sold my 4.0SE that was fully running and driving but with a cracked windscreen for £380. Would there be any mileage in importing them from UK? That might explain why when I advertised an old Yamaha 600 Diversion for sale it was bought by a guy from ROI who came over to collect a van load of bikes. Assume they go for similar silly money?

I think you've got a bargain there and it looks like it's been looked after too. Not your usual neglected/butchered older P38. What do you intend doing with it?

Current for the tailgate latch goes via the CDL switch in the drivers door. Maybe the CDL switch is starting to fail so the current draw causes it to go high resistance meaning the BeCM sees it as going open circuit enough to trigger the central locking? If you've got a new latch already, fit it.

I agree, I've been there. I want a double height garage so I can get a lift in there too.

For some unknown reason RAVE says to remove the engine leaving the gearbox in place on a GEMS but to remove the whole lot as one lump on a Thor. As Harv says, if doing it in one lump you need the car high in the air as it's a long unit so engine alone is much easier. I found the boom on my 2 ton engine crane wasn't long enough unless I pulled it all the way out and even then it was hard up against the front number plate. With the boom all the way out obviously the safe working load was reduced but still OK and there's a reachet strap stopping it from being able to pull out any further. See pic and on this car the job wasn't made any easier with the bullbar in the way (and the fact we were working under a tent because it kept raining).

Can't be bad, looks far too good to use for spares. What year is it? I can see it's a pre-97 from the air filter housing and the purge valve pipe going into the upper inlet manifold rather that the throttle body. Must be an Oxford Blue thing though as the lacquer on the bonnet had peeled on the 4.0SE I had in the same colour and we don't get the sun you get where you are.

Yup, on the front of the throttle body, take it out, clean it and the hole it sits in, put it back. No need to disconnect the battery or fit a new gasket, just DON'T turn the ignition on with it out or unplugged.......

I once picked up a V12 Jag that I had to drive back to the UK from the south of France. Before I picked it up it had been taken in for a service to make sure it would make the journey. Within 50 miles of setting off the oil pressure was down to 15-20 psi running, dropping to near zero at idle. The oil on the dipstick looked awfully thin so I called the garage that had done the service and asked them what they had put in it, Oh, 5W-30 the same as we put in everything these days. Problem is the V12 engine was designed around the same time as ours and the sticker under the bonnet said to use 20W-50. Found a garage and bought a gallon of 15W-40, the thickest I could find and did an oil change over a drain. Oil pressure back up to 45-50 running and 20 psi at idle. As Morat says, getting the best economy figures they can manage rather than engine longevity is the manufacturers main interest these days so by specifying thinner oil might gain them an extra 0.5 mpg. Do they care if the engine is worn out after 100,000 miles? No of course they don't, they want you to buy a newer car.

That's what V8 Developments recommended when I picked the engine up after they'd rebuilt it, so that's what I've used every since. It's an engine design that goes back to the 1960's when multigrade oil was 20W 50 so that's what it would have been designed for. It's done another 115,000 miles since then and the oil is still as clean now as the first lot that went in.

I use mine all the time I'm on the Continent. They don't have streetlights on the motorways and as there's naff all traffic driving at night so it's just driving into the blackness. Dipped beam is good, main beam is superb (or they are with Osram Nightbreakers in there) but the fogs give a wide flat beam of light that illuminates the kerbs on both sides filling in the gaps close in. Never had anyone flash me for dazzling them, well, not unless I've got so used to driving on main beam that seeing someone coming the other way is such a shock I've forgotten to dip them.

If you've got cruise control you've got a high line BeCM. The plugs for the switches will be in the loom waiting for you to plug them in and the wiring for the front fogs will almost certainly be there too. As Dave says though, it isn't as simple as plugging the switch and lights in, the BeCM needs to be told they are fitted. It registers the switch being pressed and then outputs the power to the correct wires to cause them to light up. If it didn't have them before then it will be set as Fog Lamps, Not Fitted and that needs to be changed.

I've got the dangling plug for the cruise control switch even though I don't have cruise control.

Idle air valve needs cleaning as it's sticking.