If you have a GEMS, then it's a good idea, Thor has it anyway. As my car originally had an axillary battery in the boot there was already an extra cable coming off the battery terminal going to a split charge relay, I just moved that from the relay to the alternator. I have had a problem in the past with the connection at the starter working itself loose so I had nothing from the alternator getting to the battery so it's definitely worth doing.
Don't know for definite but I wouldn't have thought so. The sunroof on a Classic is the same size as the P38 but has a different curve so is high in the middle.
Yellow Polys!!! It must handle like a blancmange......
Early cars have the rear brake pipes running along the top of the axle, easy enough to make up new ones in Copper/Nickel. Check the ones that run from front to back too. They have inline connectors below the brake modulator on the bulkhead, then run down the car next to the chassis rail before going up and over the fuel tank and appearing at the hoses that go to the centre of the axle. They are not easy to see but they rot out too.
Yes, take the V5 into a main dealer and ask them for the printout. That will give you the EKA, radio code, lockset bar code, manufacture date, spec, etc.
I got one cut at my local Timsons so I can use that if I ever lose my one and only fob. As I'm far more likely to lose it while I'm hundreds of miles from home, the blade is attached to the underside of the car in a place where I can find it but nobody else will (if they even thought to look for it). I know I'd need to enter the EKA to start the car (I assume you've got the EKA for yours?) and nobody would be able to guess that.
Yeah, probably not a good idea to plug it in while the system is powered up.....
Poorly key fob isn't a good idea as the system was designed assuming everyone would always use the fob to lock and unlock so the mechanical linkage isn't designed to be used all the time. If you've got more than one key, or can get a blade cut (it uses a BMW blank), this guy https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Repair-refurbishment-fix-for-Range-Rover-P38-remote-flip-key-fob-new-case/402234621797 will refurb your existing one.
If the keyswitch in the drivers latch has died then all turning the key will do is unlock the drivers door. The CDL switch must be OK as that supplies a ground to the tailgate latch when the drivers door is unlocked. If you can't open the rear doors by pulling up the button then they are most likely superlocked so need to be unlocked electrically. As the drivers door panel is already off, half the job is already done. With a decent battery connected, unpliug the larger of the two plugs that connects to the driver door latch. On the plug that connects to the latch, find the Green/Red and Blue/Red wires. Poke a bit on wire into the plug to connect to these two (paperclip works well), connect a random length of wire to your paperclip and ground the other end. This simulates the signal for the key being turned in the lock and should operate the central locking to pop all doors open. They will lock again when you take the ground off unless you leave the Green/Red wire grounded.
Is it on LPG? If it is, you don't need them, just a straight bit of pipe. If it isn't best price you'll find is Maltings Off Road https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38-catalytic-converter-p38-v8-downpipes-with-cats-wcd000860-99-my/252021472328 although that looks expensive when you consider the full system is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38-exhaust-system-p38-V8-exhaust-system-complete-front-rear-94-99/272214722398
Those Hankook batteries are well worth it as an upgrade, and cheaper than others. Don't remember who it was but someone said he was thinking of telling DVLA he'd changed his car to hybrid, the speed they can spin the engine over means you could drive on the battery alone! Although there is a big red label warning you, make sure you pull the breather plug out before bolting it down (not that it is going to go anywhere anyway).
I'd check those tailgate straps carefully before putting too much weight on it. My 52kg daughter broke mine by sitting on the tailgate. The bearings on each end seize up and they rust under the plastic.
Nice one, you'll have to give Sloth some lessons on finding something definitive, he's still chasing his squeak.....
Blimey Dan, that was quick, welcome.
When fitting it, be careful not to catch and break the bleed pipe from the top of the radiator to the header tank. The battery is heavy and as big as it can be and still fit in the hole. Guess how I know it's easy to break the bleed pipe......
The are in RAVE but you are looking in the wrong part, they are the AC condenser fans so listed under the Heating and Ventilation section, not the cooling system. Whenever the compressor kicks in they run connected in series so run slowly and run in parallel, so at high speed, if the engine temperature gets too high. I heard mine start up for the first time in the 10 years I've owned it while checking the EAS calibration and having the engine idling for about 30 minutes.
There is only one, best by far and cheaper then ECP and Halfrauds
https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/hankook-heavy-duty-commercial-battery-mf31-1000/
The front left probably caused the front right to wear. A soggy tyre on the left will cause the steering to pull to the left, so you will be constantly turning right to keep it straight which will wear the inside edge on the RH tyre. If you'd kept it pumped up, both would still be good.......
There's plenty of tread over 75% of the width so perfectly legal, I bet there's hardly any difference between them and the rears in the centre. Bung them on the back and the ones from the back on the front. Just don't forget to change the pressures.
Other than Dave, and I think he would have the same problem no matter what platform we used, jitsi seemed to work extremely well so there doesn't seem much point in changing for the sake of it. The only glitch I had was after I'd shared my screen so everyone could look at the picture, it didn't go back to the camera but logging out and back in again cured that.
They have 6, post 97 there's two short ones on each side at the back, the earlier ones have a short one on each side and two longer ones in the centre. Buying the fittings and a length of Goodridge hose works out more expensive than buying the full set.
Firefox V76.01 64 bit here, I suspect the red camera icon has something to do with it, it's probably enabled, or Firefox isn't authorised to use it.