Most threads do when they get to more than a couple of pages, as long as the original question was answered/problem identified who cares where it goes from there? As the name of this place suggests, it's a virtual pub, wander in, sit down, ask your question then get involved in a bit of banter and conversation that may well go off on a tangent. Difference here compared with .net is that nobody gets a bollocking and their post removed for taking a thread off topic. I'm trying to take a few threads off topic to see if one of the other mods bollocks me......

From the Nanocom GEMS manual:

Short term idle (steps): This is the value that the GEMS use’s to regulate the current idle speed
to take into account current engine load, temperature etc. It can be manually altered here may
later be changed by GEMS. The value is in steps and it can be a number between 0 and 255.

Long term idle: This is the value that the GEMS learns over a period of time to take into account
manufacturers tolerances on components which affect overall idle speed. This value cannot be
modified, but it can be reset, forcing the GEMS to re-learn this value.

So don't worry about it. If you reset the adaptive values it will reset but will then learn and set itself where it needs to be.

Vacuum cleaner down the hole where the pollen filter goes or just whack the fans on flat out so it chops the leaves into little bits.

Don't understand? Are you talking about long and short term fuel trims (LTFT and STFT)? 20 to 36 on the IACV is correct at idle but it should go up under acceleration as it opens up to give a cleaner pick up as you open the throttle.

If you mean the one on the opposite side to the throttle body, no. Then there's the one from the other rocker cover into the throttle body, that often goes all squishy and horrible as well as the little one that is hidden..

Main problem is that it attacks rubber so any hoses or seals in the fuel system need to be changed. From 1999 onwards manufacturers stopped using any rubber components anyway which is why they say it should only be used in cars built from 2000. I only use petrol the same as a spare wheel anyway, it's just there in case of emergency.

There's also a thin vacuum pipe to the fuel pressure regulator tucked away under the bracket for the throttle cable. That often gets missed and can split at the end.

For GEMS, https://www.direnza.co.uk/range-rover-p38-4-0l-4-6l-v8-94-99-aluminium-radiator, or the same thing from the same supplier via eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/55mm-ALUMINIUM-SPORT-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-MK2-P38-4-0-4-6-V8-94-99/352577843032

For diesel, https://www.direnza.co.uk/range-rover-p38-2-5-td-94-99-aluminium-radiator, or via eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/55mm-TWIN-CORE-ALUMINIUM-RACE-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-LAND-RANGE-ROVER-2-5-TD-P38-94-99/392067849387

Thor has the top spigot on the opposite side to GEMS but they don't list one for the Thor.

I've bought about 5 Direnza ones now for myself and different people, odd that the one for a GEMS petrol without the integrated oil cooler is more expensive than the one for a diesel. More recent ones are slightly different to the older ones with Direnza pressed into the top and a serial number sticker whereas the earlier ones were just plain alloy and no serial number on them. Highest temperature I have seen since fitting it is 96 degrees and that was after driving at around 80 mph for 200 miles when it was 41 degrees outside. Under normal circumstances I've never seen over 93 degrees.

6.6 from completely dry but that includes the oil cooler and it's hoses. After a drain and filter change you'll be looking at between 5 and 5.5 litres.

It isn't a case of them not running on it, it's a case that the higher Ethanol content will attack some of the materials in the fuel system. Obviously the steel fuel pipes will be fine but it is some of the flexi sections of hose that may be degraded. It's only going from 5% Ethanol to 10% but E15 has been the norm in most European countries for about 2 years now. I've put E15 in my P38 and my old 1993 Classic, without any adverse affects but I will admit, if I was going to run on it regularly, I'd renew all the fuel lines maybe even with Goodridge 200 series braided Nitrile.

AWR2174 is the plastic bit the the screws go into but they seem to be the only screws that aren't listed, probably because they are just standard self tapping screws. The ones that hold the plenum on are DA610065L which are the large headed screws that seem to hold the entire car together, see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Discovery-2-Range-Rover-P38-New-Genuine-Self-Tapping-Screw-Pack-of-5-DA610065L-/112504795164

Bloody hell, no wonder it was sitting on the piss, that's ridiculous. Why would someone have saved settings like that?

How much did you have to alter the heights by, quite a bit I would think. When you come to do the access height, the blocks are about flush with the end of the bumpstops. No problem putting them in but a pain to get them out again. I drilled a hole in the end and tapped it with an M6 thread so I can screw a bolt in to pull them out with.

So now you can either do the motorway and access heights or clean your idle air valve......

Sounds about right. Does it look right?

Yes, definitely a good thing as it is building pressure and holding it.

Quite possibly. The fuel flap pushbutton applies a ground into the BeCM, is passed through some circuitry and operates an internal relay which then powers the release motor. So the circuitry may well not operate the relay if the system is in an alarmed state.

Next time you run it, switch over to petrol a minute or so before turning it off. If it still does it, then it isn't a leaking diaphragm.

Only if he's running it on LPG. If you are Henry, switch back to petrol 30 seconds or so before switching off. That will allow any leaking gas to be used up so it won't flood the inlet. If only running on petrol, it isn't that as the solenoids won't have allowed any gas into the reducer.

Yes, unlock but don't open a door within 30 seconds and it assumes you've pressed the button on the fob by mistake, or in your pocket, so relocks.

If your fuel flap release button is missing, for the time being you could always wire the magic silver button to the plug instead.....