Back in about 2003 I did the off road course at Land Rover at Solihull. I did it in a Discovery 2 as that was what we had at work at the time (and work were paying for the course). I asked what was the best model off road expecting him to say the Defender and was surprised when he said the Range Rover. His comment was that the EAS made it far better than anything else they produced. He reckoned that they had laughed at the Freelander when it first appeared but he said even that was far better off road than they'd expected.
I agree about the Series on the road, 50 mph and you are into ear defender territory and the need for a serious massage after about 20 miles.
When the army replaced all their Series 3s with Defenders, the old ones were all sold off. There was a former WW2 airfield near Litchfield where they were all stored, along with 3 aircraft hangers full of spare parts. An airfield full of Landies as far as the eye could see, all one price, except for the ones with 24V electrics as they were classed as commercial vehicles so had to have VAT added to the price. You could wander around, pick the ones you wanted and they would lift them out for you. All 2.25 petrol too. I bought about 10, mostly LWB, LHD ragtops and they went to France. Problem was, I had to drive them. I know what a Series 3 drives like so I hate to imagine what a Series 2A is like......
Some are worse than others but when you spend £25 on a rebuild kit only to find bolts shear off so you have to spend £75 on a new reducer, you may as well have saved the £25. It's not like a new reducer is expensive anyway.
If all combustion chambers look like that, there's no coolant getting in there, as Dave says, they'd be steam cleaned and not nicely covered in carbon. Yes, there is a possibility of a leak behind the front cover, both to the inside and also out to the world.
Ah yes, Chris No10 spent ages trying to do it on a tablet and failed dismally.
If it wasn't pressurising, spitting all the coolant out and overheating due to a lack of coolant, the liners are fine. Once you've clean the block face up, you should be good to go.
No you don't. Display the picture in Imgur, right click on it and select copy link location. Go to write your post, click the insert picture icon and paste the link into the box that pops up.
Slightly out of focus but looks OK to me. Was it pressurising the cooling system or just losing a bit of coolant?
Morat wrote:
but it won't have any effect on starting especially in this weather.
But he's in Tasmania so approaching winter there.......
Got my rear washer working. Blasted the pipes through with an air line and nothing came out except on the little short section in the upper tailgate. So replaced that. Not sure how long it will keep working but it is at the moment.
Heater comes into it's own when the temperature is around or slightly above freezing and the atmosphere is damp, think foggy mornings. The intake air accelerating through the throttle body lowers the temperature and with lots of moisture in the air it can form ice in the intake. If you take it off you will have air leaks as the mounting bolt holes go right through to the intake so they need to be plugged up.
Nicely made bit of kit, all machined alloy not like most that are cast Mazak (aka Zamak or Monkey metal) which means they are virtually impossible to rebuild as the steel screws seize in and shear off when you try to take them apart.
Yup, 5am. Ideal time for a beer if you ask me.
As long as you treat it as late last night and not early this morning......
Surely, that's after the sun has gone past the yardarm? Have a beer like everyone else, at least it's the afternoon....
I've got an Allmakes one on mine https://www.lrdirect.com/PCF101420-Tank-Expansion/
Unlike the original, I can actually see how much coolant I have without taking the cap off......
Tried a test earlier this afternoon with 3 of us and it worked perfectly, all you need do is click the link and enter the password. At one point Gordon connected using the App on his phone so was there twice so even that side of it works. Jitsi seems to be very similar to Teams but with a few extras, the ability to share a Youtube video being one of them.
Yes, but I felt there was just a little too much movement on the steering one way or the other. Once I take it out on a longer run I may notice a difference but just a quick run down the road didn't really seem to show anything.
Sounds like a plan. We were using Microsoft Teams at work and my retirement piss up was done over Teams, 27 people at the peak, all sitting at home having a beer while talking random bollocks. One guy at work has Type 1 Diabetes so hasn't been out of the house since before official lockdown started so he's been occupying his time generating pub quiz type questions which have now become a weekly event on a Thursday evening (they even invite retired members like me).
The only thing is when? Any evening except a Thursday would suit me and I would think something like 8pm was suit most.
Bolt wrote:
I mean, What could possibly go wrong?
Something, anything. I leave the non-squirting rear washer on mine so it is happy in the knowledge that it isn't quite perfect. I know damn well if I renewed the pipe so it doesn't constantly clog up, it would find something else, almost certainly more important, to fail.
Swore at it, a lot..... Some time ago, at least two years (because it moved with me when I moved house, so probably nearer 3 years), I bought an intermediate steering shaft. At the time there was a bit of vagueness at straight ahead but after replacing the steering tie bar, it went away so I never bothered to fit it. Ever since then I've always had to steer slightly right on a cambered road (and slightly left when I'm on the Continent) but thought that maybe changing it might have an affect. So, today, I decided I would fit it. Simple enough job, undo the bolts, slide the old shaft out and slot the new one in.
So, first of all the bottom UJ didn't want to slide off the splines on the steering box input shaft. Got it partway out and it decided it wasn't coming out any further. Ended up using a ball joint splitter which got it off but also destroyed the plastic collar with the pointer on it that shows when the box is centralised. Fortunately I know it is at the moment but I'll just have to remember that should I ever need to take it off. With the aid of a club hammer knocked it down so it came off the splines on the base of the column. So far so good, although it had put up a bit of a fight, the old one was off. Put a smear of HMP grease on the splines at both ends, slotted the new one in at the top and put the pinch bolt in. Rather than having the splined centre section the new one (marked on the box as being Eurospares) has a pretty hefty hexagonal bar but the principal is the same, it slides to adjust the length and is then locked in place with a pinch bolt. The other difference is that the ends are steel rather than alloy on the original. Slid the lower UJ onto the steering box and put the pinch bolt in. It was at this point things started to go wrong. The hole for the pinch bolt was too close to the centre line so it went in a couple of turns then went very tight.
The groove in the input shaft in the steering box is only shallow which meant that the splined of the groove removed the thread from the pinch bolt. Not possible to drill the hole out and use a bolt with a Nylock nut on the other end, so the other option was to open up the groove. Can't get in there with the grinder so had to resort to the old school method. Kneeling on the front bumper while trying to file a bit of high tensile steel in 28 degree heat is not a good way of spending an afternoon. The sweat dribbling into your eyes also means you have to keep stopping as you can't see what you're doing. After about an hour of filing, the groove was opened up sufficiently that the pinch bolt would go into without having it's thread removed on the way through. Tighten everything up, put tools away and take it out to try it. Absolutely no different to how it had been before, still needs correction to stop it wandering down the camber, even found a bit of empty road where I could drive on the wrong side and simulate being on the Continent and it needs correcting the the other way. OK, there was no discernible slack in either UJ but the rubber bit did look a bit perished so I may have tightened things up a little. Just not enough to notice it......
Even after editing the post so the picture shows up, I still have one question. Where's the bloody rear wheel??