According to Microcat, they all use STC numbers so not sure what you are finding.

If it were mine, I'd helicoil it. It's not something you want to work loose and dump all your coolant without you realising it.

Going back a step or two, I've had a decent run today. Mix of 70-80 mph motorway, country roads and M25 traffic. 205 miles on 55.9 litres of LPG. Ok so it only works out at 16.6 mpg on LPG but at 63p a litre that 205 miles cost me less that £36. Just to prove that what you are getting is pretty dire......

If you are using it on longer runs, you should be looking at over 20 but obviously if just using it for short, low speed runs, then it might be correct. As for the LPG system, it will be far cheaper to correct the existing installation than replace it. BRC had a reputation, much like Prins, if installed correctly but it isn't really user friendly and would probably give no better results that what you have now. If your existing system is installed correctly and calibrated then it should be fine. As Brian mentioned, the intake tracts on a Thor cross over so if the nozzles have been put in the upper manifold it is almost certain that the wiring is crossed.

BRC?? Trying to make matters worse?

Petrol tank holds 100 litres so 380 miles is only 17 mpg. Unless you were clogging it up to the red line all the time that's pretty pants too. Sort the runing on petrol and the running on LPG will improve as it is slaved off the petrol system.

Probably because it was converted in the days of the paper certificate rather than the register. If you have the certificate you can scan that and your V5 and it will be added to the register, if you haven't, tough.

I bet the injector nozzles are in the upper inlet manifold and not down near the petrol injectors like they should be. That'll give you poor throttle response.

Yup, that's all they ever fitted, whether it was suitable for the car or not. They were what became known as one of the done in a day merchants. Fit a system in a day, don't bother to set it up and when the customer complains that it is down on power/MIL keeps coming on/doesn't give the economy expected, he gets told that it is perfectly normal for an LPG conversion (which it isn't).

StrangeRover wrote:

it was installed by a place called Profess Autogas

Now there's a name that used to be slagged off regularly on the LPGForum. Not surprised it doesn't run right, probably never has.

Probably a good idea, it could cause you a bit of a problem when it tries to find it's way past the throttle butterfly......

A Thor will do when running a singlepoint, there's a hell of a lot of gas to explode. Much like when people tried to put a singlepoint on the Ford Explorer. 3 litre V6 engine with a plastic inlet manifold. One little misfire and the entire manifold became little bits of plastic spread around the engine bay, it would literally blow it to pieces.

If your MAF needs replacing, the mixture on petrol will be wrong, probably going into a fail safe rich mixture, which will make the mixture on LPG rich too.

I don't think it is that important, the car still ran perfectly OK with it completely missing. As it's part of the MAF housing, it can't be bought separately.

My tank takes 65 litres to fill and I get anything between 180 (around town) and 220 (long run) miles out of a full tank. You'll use more if you are constantly stopping and starting as you need to use a lot more fuel to get 2.3 tonnes of car moving than you do in keeping it moving.

As for singlepoint on a Thor, I wouldn't consider it. I'm running a singlepoint on a GEMS but the Thor has a much larger volume inlet manifold so a lot more gas/air mixture to go bang in the event of a misfire. I've had a couple of pops, mainly due to iffy ignition (one was caused by me not putting a plug lead back on properly) and the worst I've seen is the mesh grille in the MAF getting blown off and ending up in the air filter box. However, on a Thor, the bang will be bigger and the MAF is a lot more expensive so not worth risking it.

The part numbers don't supersede so they are definitely different. No sure how different but they are.

Is it only when idling or is is worse when accelerating but once the engine is spinning faster you won't hear it? It could be the start of a head gasket blowing out the side which won't give you any coolant in the oil, overheating or any of the other 'normal' symptoms. If the liner is slapping up and down, it will be pressurising the cooling system. Could it be the cat has broken up and the bits are ratting?

Not been to that one but never found anything even vaguely P38 related at any autojumble. Come to that, even at the Land Rover Owner show for the last couple of years I've been pushed to find anything P38 related, the odd bit here and there but very little.

Mines the same. On a cold start, ignition in position 2, showing Open Loop and STFT at 0%, start engine and it stays at 0% but after 20 seconds or so, it changes to closed loop and the STFM starts to climb until it reaches +38.75% with the lambda sensor output staying at 5.07 V. After another minute or so, the lambda voltage starts flipping between 5V and 0V and the STFM drops down towards zero.

I'll be going out in it shortly so I'll see if it is the same on a hot start. As long as yours shows Open Loop and 0% STFM at start then it is correct but if it is showing the +38.75% before it starts that is the source of the richness.

I've noticed that, some testers invent advisories on items that aren't actually part of the test. Damage to the rear arch would only be relevant if it has created a sharp edge that could shred a pedestrian, then it become dangerous condition see 6.2.1 here https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles.

Best one I've seen was Sump rusty.......

I'm still puzzled over the 39% STFT at start up. As far as I'm aware, as there is no output from the lambda sensors before the engine starts (and not for a few seconds after it has started) it should be running in open loop so the trims should be 0%. I'll have a look at the STFT on mine when starting it tomorrow if I remember (neighbours might object if I do it now.....).

How the hell did they pick up on a rear wheel bearing? You won't get slack in them as there's a half shaft attached to the back of it and they'd never be able to feel any roughness in rotation as it's attached to the diff.