Absolutely, a spare starter and alternator, working on the principle that an auto can't be bump started and with the reliance on 'lectric, a dead battery will stop you in your tracks too, serpentine belt and a spare idler pulley (so if any of them let go I can nick the bearing out of it). Then there's the bodge it back together kit of Schrader valves and a metre of 8mm air pipe, tyre pump, lengths of assorted sized hose (along with self amalgamating tape and hose clips), coil of steel binding wire, pack of tie wraps, bag of assorted sized nuts and bolts, 10m of electric wire, male and female spade terminals and crimp tool, PVC tape, gaffer tape, throttle position sensor, crank position sensor, multimeter, spare bulbs and fuses, butane soldering iron and solder, gloves and a couple of cleaning rags, ancient Panasonic Toughbook with RAVE and the software for my LPG system and the Nanocom of course.

With the LPG tank in the spare wheel well the spare lives in the boot and most of this lot sit inside the spare wheel while the rest is in the space where the original jack and wheelbrace would have lived. Then there is the toolbox (where the sub and CD player would live if I had one) and a 3 tonne trolley jack.

If the bolt has burnt it's way through the board, you might be able to bodge it enough to get a decent connection without cutting the links by wrapping it with copper wire under the head. Alternatively, use some thick copper wire, 2.5mm single core house wiring should be up to it if doubled up, between the bolt and the live side of one of the Maxi fuses. I have a feeling that a diesel doesn't use all of them so there will be a vacant space to poke the wire into. To solder the links needs a pretty hefty soldering iron and that isn't something I would want to tackle at the side of the road.

You should be able to see a bent tag easily enough just by turning it over slowly. It'll be the one that isn't in line with all the others and will have a shiny mark on it where it has been touching the sensor.

Not appearing in the post but can be seen. Never seen anything like that I must admit, maybe someone else will recognise it.

How to post pictures is in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/193-archives-and-posting-pictures-documents although I've given a bit more detail in the PM I've just sent you.

When I rebuilt my engine about 80k ago, I replaced the crank sensor with an intermotor one. There wasn't anything wrong with the one that was in there and I've kept it in the boot as a spare but I've had no problems with either.

Is it the crank sensor or could it be the throttle position sensor? That will cause a lack of revs as the throttle butterfly is open allowing lots of air in but the throttle position sensor is telling the ECU that the throttle is closed. Giving it a good welly may just shift some muck off the end of the track.

Now you know why I carry everything except for stuff I would never be able to use at the side of the road. Can't open the picture but having seen a couple of burnt fuseboxes I've got a pretty good idea of what you are dealing with. With a bit of creative bodgery you should be able to get it running enough to get you home though.

HEVAC often doesn't connect first time, hit the red cross to back out of it and then go back in. I've also noticed that if you go to Faults first again it fails to connect but will connect if you go to one of the other buttons (Inputs is a good one to try) and it works.

Nope,but where were you testing it? Internal and air temperature 45 degrees? Something a bit strange going on there.

Huh? But it's driven off a 5V rail so how can a resistor increase the voltage?

27 mpg isn't back for an oil burner, don't forget I'm a V8 but running LPG so on near half price fuel. Not that you would notice that in France, 1 Euro a litre at a couple of the motorway services! Petrol and diesel are also stupidly expensive too, not surprised the natives are revolting.

Definitely, reset the adaptive values and you may even find the lambda sensor fault goes away. Default is to run rich and the lambda sensor showing 1V or thereabouts is rich. Usually when a lambda sensor fails it goes to 0V meaning lean.

Icing happens when the temperature is above freezing, anything up to 5 degrees, but when there is a lot of moisture in the air. The airflow through the throttle body is accelerated so cools and forms condensation on the throttle butterfly which turns to ice with the airflow. Yes, it is worse on an engine on carbs because the venturi in the carb body accelerates the air by a greater amount so gives a greater cooling affect. That's why older stuff had a swivelling nozzle on the air intake with summer and winter settings so in winter it drew air in from around the exhaust manifold. You certainly know about it when it happens as the air intake gets partially plugged with ice so the mixture goes ridiculously rich and the throttle won't close due to the ice build up. Idling a cold engine at 4,000 rpm isn't to be recommended......

Yes there is if you don't want it icing in cold, damp weather. The air intake is under the inner wing so the air being drawn in is at ambient temperature so will ice on the throttle butterfly in the right conditions. Of course it falls under oily bits, as it says, if it leaks, it's in here and the hose for the throttle body heater is known for leaking, which is why it gets replaced with silicone hose.

Go for Dunlops, even ones with 40k on them. I replaced my rears when I got the car and the fronts a couple of years later. So the rears have done about 160k and the fronts about 120k with no problems (and that includes towing big heavy trailers around the place). Boge OE shocks are designed to work with the Dunlop air springs so are properly matched. For me, Arnotts fall into the category of we'll design something that we think is an improvement without knowing why the originals were designed the way they were.

I think you're trying to turn the wrong one, it's the 15mm bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley you need to turn.

The various bodges done to stop the dash filling with warnings when the EAS is removed, have to be seen to be believed. Particularly when the system is so simple that it would be easier to repair it properly. Pull out anything that doesn't look like Land Rover put it there and then fault it when it doesn't work.

If you buy a secondhand Nanocom, all you need do is register it in your name. You can leave it as it is but then you can't get any firmware updates.

I can understand how some get disillusioned with a P38 but if you are doing the work yourself and are methodical then you shouldn't get into that state. I bought mine with 204,000 miles on the clock, a burst rear air spring and a head gasket blowing from one cylinder into the Vee. Got those two things sorted in a couple of days and started using it before finding all the other things that fail on a P38. No different to any car of this age, everything has the stock faults that will always show themselves. For the first year or so, I didn't trust it as far as I could throw it but by working my way through the problems it became reliable. That was 8 years ago. It now has 367,000 miles on the clock, everything, and I do mean everything, works as it should and it is regularly used to drive across Europe, visiting my partners family is 1520 miles each way, and it just does it. Like anything, do it right, do it once.

Registering the Nanocom Evolution isn't that difficult, you just need to follow the instructions and enter the code which is generated for you. If you can't get the computer outside, simply write the code down and take it outside with you.

It's a twin filament H4 for dip and main with a separate H7 for main only.

Better order about 20 feet of it then......