rangerovers.pub
The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
Gilbertd's Avatar
Member
offline
8083 posts

A mate's wife has one and that doesn't seem to have given much trouble. The diesels are a lot more common than petrol anyway, they came with either the K series 4 pot which eats head gaskets at a frightening rate or a V6 which are about as common as rocking horse manure. Only thing of note that I've heard is that the wiper motor has a habit of dying and it seems they started with that and built the rest of the car around it making changing it a real pain.

I drove to Switzerland a few years ago and found that they were far cheaper in the French hypermarkets on the way down than they are here. No idea if that is still the case though.

For 2 grand on a respray I would have expected them to have done something with the faded grey grille, bumpers and strips under the lights. Cost me £4.99 for a can of bumper black to do mine......

1750, but it had also been standing for 18 months so wouldn't have had an MoT and it has those awful looking wheels on it. So a bit of a gamble really but still one worth taking if you know what you are doing.

Yes there is. I left them in when my engine went to V8 Developments (minus heads) and when I picked it up they said that one of mine was faulty (the top plastic bit was loose) so they'd bunged one in that they had kicking around. As I understand it, they are a sort of microphone that listens for pre-ignition and the ECU can work out which cylinder and back the timing off. Whether just on that one cylinder or all of them I've no idea. What the affect would be of not having one I don't know. It may think the silence means all is fine or it may detect it is missing and back the timing off just in case. I've never heard of anyone having to replace one so they must be pretty reliable so a used one should be fine.

Are the crank sensors interchangeable? Looking at the pictures on Island's site, they look different but are the mountings the same? In all honesty, considering it is one of the few things that will stop the car dead in it's tracks and the price, I'd be inclined to fit a new one to be safe.

Martyuk wrote:

If you think that's bad... this is on par at least...

Try this one

Bloody hell, someone paid £2,200 for that?

StrangeRover wrote:

Also this place seems to be predominantly P38 based.

Probably because it was started from people that are P38 owners and had been banned from RR.net by RRTH. It has never deliberately set out to be only P38, it's just that's what we own. P38 owners tend to be enthusiasts with a sense of humour and don't mind a bit of gentle piss taking, the others are a different breed entirely and take themselves far too seriously.

I was actually asked when I will be selling mine last week. Simple answer, I won't. It's got 363k on the clock now and i anticipate keeping it until it's done at least as much again. Brexit means that I am unlikely to be towing a trailer loaded with a classic car of some sort between the UK and France half a dozen times a year as I have been up to now but what else would I want to drive around in? Nothing. It may not be the fastest thing on the road but it will take me anywhere no matter what the conditions and I've got a motorbike for when I want to scare myself......

and while it doesn't look too bad from some angles, from others it just looks plain wrong. Look at an L322 from behind and it way too tall and skinny. It was also too advanced for the time so now you've got loads of bits that are obsolete. Just look at the TV screen in the middle of the dash, analogue TV tuner, analogue radio, DVD based sat nav, all state of the art when new but about as useful as a chocolate fireguard these days. Because it is part of the dash you can't easily upgrade to an Android head unit like some have done on the P38 and as for sticking a standard single DIN head unit in, you've no chance.

0.49V will be that it has detected no signal so has gone to the default of the mid point. What you are reading is coming from the ECU and not the sensor. No fluttering up and down does indeed mean it is dead.

Look at the live reading (Inputs, Fuelling) and it will show what it is reading. Normally when they die they give 0V which the ECU reads as lean so it cranks the fuelling up to make it richer which will give high emissions. Will screw up running on LPG too.

Wrong!!! bank 2 is even numbered pots, RH side as sitting in the drivers seat, not looking from the front.

Course there is, how else does the oil get to and from the rocker shafts? However, the feed goes up around the front, inner head bolt and the return dribbles down the pushrod holes so highly unlikely to be anywhere near the head gasket joint.

If you hadn't moved house and you told him you were bringing them in, Lyndale Engines in Peterborough will skim heads while you wait. It's actually fascinating to watch the machine removing metal from just a couple of spots and then a bit more each pass.

But not when you try to change range? Does it only not work when it's hot so won't change range or not work at all? I know you've swapped the ECU but it does point to a problem there, or at least the wiring between it and the rest of the car.

It is an auto I assume as the wiring is a bit different on a manual.

Quite possibly, Monaco plates too so money was no object.......

I'm with Dave on this one, it's pretty much G4 Challenge look. Whoever has done it (very recently by the wet look paint job) has at least done the pillars and door shuts rather than leaving them whatever the original colour was. Shame about the engine, wheels and Sport vents in the front wings though, with a V8 and big bore stainless exhaust it could be quite decent (ish),

Nowt to do with the XYZ switch, that deals with the gear position on the main gearbox, not the transfer box. You can use the Nanocom to check the light if you go into the BeCM section and then under utilities it allows you to switch on and off each dash light in turn. That will confirm that while the bulb may be good and test OK out of the dash, it may not be working in the dash (usual problem is a poor contact between the bulbholder and pcb). I've just looked at RAVE and can't see a temp sensor mentioned anywhere. There's an output speed sensor on the back of the transfer case though.

Or have a word with Marty in Swindon. He's got the kit, the workshop and has done quite a few in the past.