Mine did it once years ago when it was stupidly cold. I poured a kettle full of hot water down the side of the door. Whether it was the heat from that or it just freed itself off anyway I don't know but it's never done it again. Heat gun would probably be better if you've got one.
I think he did in the end. That car of his would probably be one of, if not the, best in existence with the work he put into it. I assume his lady knows what it is worth and isn't going to let it go for peanuts unless she is going to keep it in his memory. See https://rangerovers.pub/topic/986-orangebean
Yes, the push in things are Cupsac, they are listed in Microcat with a part number and are available from Island (and probably others too), I think it's the bits that push into the Cupsacs that are needed. The white plastic bits that fit into the metal backing strip on the back of the door rubbing strips. When I took mine off I was careful not to break any but a couple came unclipped from the rubbing strips. I let them sit in hot water for a while to soften them so I could get them back in without breaking them. I can see how most would get broken or pulled out if someone just ripped the rubbing strips off the doors without taking too much care.
RutlandRover wrote:
I was able to undo mine with a 16mm 6 sided socket
That's what I use, a 1/2" drive spark plug socket for the smaller plugs.
Having looked at Microcat just out of interest, the Thor block still uses Imperial thread sizes but the heads seem to be a mix, inlet manifold bolts are shown as 3/8 UNC while exhaust manifold threads are M8. Bonkers......
As for Morat's Jeep, who knows, maybe they got a good deal on some metric bolts?
So does the GEMS P38. Most of the car is metric but the engine is Imperial so there's things like the exhaust manifold bolts are UNC but on a Thor they are M8. As the ARP stud kit is the same for GEMS and Thor I assume the Thor block still uses 7/16 UNC head bolts.
Looks like bad news. Assuming you mean the strange shaped white plastic ones that fit onto the back of the rubbing strips and push into the little plastic sockets, they come with the strips and aren't listed separately.
Put it this way, this was mine on the day they said it should be done by......
Not quite finished.
Good news but if it's anything like body shops over here, you won't see it until Christmas. You can guarantee it won't be done when they say it will.
3 base coats is ample, 2 would be normal for a good finish. You will be disappointed when you first see it as it will have the chav 'wet look' until it is flatted back. Normal way is that the clear coats are made up with less lacquer and more thinners on each coat, so the top coat will be thinned right down to give a really deep shine when polished.
FQJ102262PMA is RHD drivers (RH) door, the expensive one. Better to get one of Marty's refurbs. FQJ102281PMA is the RH door on a LHD car, and is the one I bought, so only has one microswitch and the keyswitch lever is missing. I've done a mix and match with a spare RHD drivers latch to swap the missing bits and microswitches over to turn it into a RHD drivers latch. Just got to get around to fitting it now.
About what you've got, I think the largest I've ever seen is a 90 litre. Mine is about as big as it goes without a bit of tin bashing to get it to fit and that's an 80 litre so takes around 67 litres to fill (they shut off when the tank is around 80% full to allow for expansion). On a run I can get 220-230 miles on a full tank.
With or without the chrome strips? Just checked the part numbers and availability and surprisingly the ones with the chrome strips are actually cheaper. Unfortunately, not all are available .I need to visit my local Range Rover dismantler next week, I'll ask in there although I suspect it is something they either don't keep or leave on a door when they sell that.
Usually people ask that question if they are having to factor in the cost of the conversion, so low mileage means it takes longer before they are into a saving. However, if it is already fitted then that isn't relevant so which would you prefer to pay, £1.40 a litre for fuel or 60p a litre for fuel? 2,000 miles a year would cost you roughly £800 on petrol compared with £350 on LPG so you are likely to do more miles as the cost is less of an issue. I did an 800 mile round trip the other weekend and it cost me less than £100 in fuel. Not to mention that LPG is a much simpler hydrocarbon fuel with no noxious additives so not only are you causing less pollution, the oil stays clean so lubricates better and your engine will last longer.
I've run on nothing but LPG for the last 12 years and would not consider running anything else. Even when considering a different car (as an addition rather than instead of the P38 of course) for me the first consideration is can it be converted? With running costs less, or at least very similar to, an equivalent diesel but with none of the downsides. My car is registered with and exempt from charges for low emission zones in France, Germany, Belgium and Holland purely because it is running on LPG.
When mine was resprayed I took them all off before it went into the bodyshop. While I didn't have the car I cleaned them all off and sprayed them with bumper black. Did the same with the front grille and bumpers when I got it back, looks perfect.
Having only ever had one key for mine I've thought about that. I've got a blank key blade anyway from when I bought a replacement fob case but my local Timsons said they couldn't do it. They sent me to a specialist locksmiths who could do it but only one man there knew how to use the machine and he was out at the time so I left it and never went back. My idea was to secrete it somewhere under the car so I could get it if I ever needed it but nobody else would know where to look (and wouldn't know the EKA anyway so wouldn't be able to start the car).
Glad you're in with no damage but it made you late for your dinner though. In the oven or the dog?
Green Flag man should be able to sort it. Favourite method is a thin strip of plastic down the window,
Rear quarterlight glass is another way.
Must be 'improved' security on the later ones then. Just went out to mine, key in ignition, turn ignition on and fully open the drivers window, turn ignition off but leave key in ignition, press sill button down, doors locked, closed door, doors all unlocked. If your door ajar switch wasn't working then it would constantly telling you the door was open when it wasn't.
The best, most non destructive, method is to get the tailgate open by grounding the tailgate latch wire. For that you will need a Stanley knife and a length of wire. Small fingers are helpful too.
But of course if it doesn't work then you are doubly f**cked as the door will be fully shut and locked and not just on the first latch........
Had a theory so just tried it on mine (but with the key in my hand not in the ignition). I didn't think it was possible to lock the doors with them open so I unlocked mine, opened the drivers door, pressed the sill button down to lock all the doors and let the door close. All doors locked, can't get in but the drivers door wasn't fully shut, it was just on the first latch. Gave the door a shove to shut it fully and all doors unlocked.
Theory is that the door ajar switch only operates when the door is either fully closed or fully open. With it part latched it is still telling the BeCM it is open.