Sloth did say that the TPS idle voltage can be cleared on a Thor by disconnecting the battery. If it can't you need Nanocom, Faultmate, Testbook or one of the other dedicated diagnostic units.

The adaptive values are a number of things that the ECU learns while the car is being driven, so things like correction factors on the MAF sensor, long term fuel trims and most importantly in your case, the throttle position sensor idle voltage. It is a simple potentiometer, or pot to us electronic types, hence throttle pot. As Gordon says, if the stored voltage for a closed throttle is higher than the voltage from a closed throttle, it will adjust downwards but it doesn't, or at least the GEMS doesn't so no idea about the Thor, adjust upwards . So if the stored voltage for a closed throttle is lower than the actual voltage it will see that as the throttle being slightly open and raise the revs accordingly. As it uses the idle control valve to raise the revs when you give it a tiny bit of throttle, it isn't going to adjust upwards or giving it a crack of throttle to raise the revs slightly wouldn't do anything.

Now I know it usually gets a bad rap and is blamed for everything from the neighbours budgie dying downwards, but it seems the BeCM is actually a pretty clever little beastie. Last weekend I had to tow this to just north of Toulouse

Not only is it 9 feet tall and 6 feet wide, so acts as a braking parachute in a headwind, it was also well loaded so almost at it's maximum weight of 3.5 Tonnes. The weekend coincided with Storm Diana hitting the south of England and most of France too which meant two things, the channel crossing was going to be rough and once the other side I'd have a hell of a headwind. Also the route includes some pretty serious hills both up and down. So, rather than risk being rammed up the back by an empty artic who may not realise the speed differential while I was slogging up a hill in the dark, I put a magnetic 55W halogen amber beacon on one side of the trailer. The trailer has a junction box near the back where all the wiring connects so it was easy enough to connect the beacon to one of the sidelight circuits in there.

About 20 miles from Dover, I get a beep from the dash and the message centre comes up with RH Tail Light Bulb Blown but a few minutes later I notice that the LH side marker lights and beacon had gone out on the trailer. Switched the lights off and back on again and everything came back on. Seems that the extra load of the beacon on one sidelight circuit had been seen, eventually, by the BeCM as a short circuit bulb which would only happen if the bulb had blown so it had switched that circuit off to prevent the possibility of further damage in lieu of there being a fuse in the sidelight circuit. When I next stopped I ran a wire from the beacon to the ignition switched supply in the boot but it did prove that the trailer lights were wired back to front so the LH and RH circuits were crossed I was more impressed with the way the BeCM cuts power to a circuit it detects a problem on, so not so dumb as many seem to think it is.

Incidentally, I took the picture in my avatar on the way back but what was most interesting was the difference between the run there, against the wind with the trailer and coming back with the wind behind me and no trailer. Trip out, average speed 43 mph at 12mpg, coming back, average speed 67mph at 17.2mpg. Seems aerodynamics, or a lack of them, make a hell of a difference......

But was it a dry -1 or damp? I suspect at that temperature it would be dry which would support my suggestion.

I threw 3 or 4 away when I moved house but all of those had slop in the bearing which had caused them to start leaking. Then there was the one where the bearing exploded on me so the seals are of lesser importance. If it starts to leak chances are it is because of slack in the bearing.

One car that I became very familiar with a few years ago had a little quirk where it either didn't, or was very reluctant, to start if it was cold and damp. This had an old school distributor and coil but the principle will be the same. Due to where the coil was mounted, over time it got a layer of oily dust on it. As soon as it got damp instead of the sparks travelling down the HT leads they would track down the side on the coil terminal to ground resulting in no spark at the plug. The cure was to simply polish the dust off the top of the coil. I knew someone who was convinced his car had a moral conscience as it would start perfectly no matter what the weather if he was at home but if he stayed overnight at his girlfriend's house it would refuse to start the next day. Difference was that he put it in a garage at home but it was left outside at his girlfriend's. When I told him that he needed to polish his ignition coil he thought I was taking the piss but once I'd explained why he did it and was able to stay out anywhere he liked overnight after that.

Now I know the coil on a Thor isn't the easiest of things to get at but I also know how much you like polishing things so give it a try.

I think they are pressed in although I've never tried to take one apart, or not a P38 one anyway. I have on a different car where it was found that the bearing, seal and shaft was identical to those from a different car where a rebuild kit was available for one but not the other.

Morat wrote:

Yep, no Door Open RH-F showing on the dash. It seems the door is showing closed all the time.

That figures. If it thought the door was already closed then sill locking would still work as it assumed all doors were shut and you were in the car.

If it's worse in the cold and damp, I'd say you are looking at HT leads breaking down. Polishing the coils helps too.

I've only ever had one that didn't come off with a clout from a club hammer on the pump wrench but that came free easily enough with the bar holding it from turning. When putting them back, I just leave everything dry and spin it on until it reaches the end of the thread and stops. You can turn the engine over with the fan although I don't think you could crank it over fast enough to start the engine WW1 Sopwith Camel style.

What's the beam pattern like? I know the Power UK ones OB fitted could be adjusted to get the correct pattern although they were the best part of a ton a pair. Either the ones they are selling now are different or the price has come down. I bought some eBay ones and they were bright but spread the light everywhere so I went back to the Osram Nightbreakers.

Thanks to Chris for posting the actual RS part number, it's caused Dina more work. She's currently working at RS where her job is to spot errors on their website with descriptions and pricing. Things like 1 item at £2.97 each but if you buy a bulk pack of 100, they cost £4.45 each?? So the DC3C-A1AA switch with a description that says it's rated at 100mA @ 30V but the picture clearly shows it's rated by the manufacturers at 100mA @ 250V is another one for the huge spreadsheet she's creating......

Only problem I've had is that there's no packing in with the pump so it damages the included gasket when it rattles around. However, I've never noticed if the box has been sealed or not but suspect I would be suspicious if it had been.

From the top, Marty's stuff is currently listed as out of stock or not available as he is working away for another week or so and doesn't want people ordering things and complaining they take ages to arrive. So yes they are available but not until he is back home. The LHD MGTF RH door latch is not only missing two of the three required microswitches but also the actual mechanism that turning the key operates. New switches in your existing latch is a better plan (unless you have,like I did, a spare drivers side latch to do a mix and match on) but you need to get the correct ones and work out a way of mounting them so Marty's refurbs are the best way to go (or brand new from LR....). I've come across a microswitch that didn't work the first couple of times but then started to do it's thing. When I checked it rather than going short circuit when operated it was showing about 2k Ohms, operating it a few times and it dropped to about 20 Ohms which was enough for the outstation to acknowledge it had operated. The filter box does indeed work exceedingly well and with a prototype installed in my car it didn't even notice the central heating thermostat that was blasting away every 15 seconds that without it was causing all sorts of weird effects.

I've got a length of steel bar with a hole drilled in one end. That sits against the spindle with one of the pulley bolt heads in the hole. Put that in place and the spanner on the hex and give it a heave.

Take the fan off first, a whack with a hammer on the end of the spanner (36mm) while the belt is still on and tensioned should be all you need. Haven't you had yours off before anyway when you had a water leak from the front cover?

Airtex are fine. From the picture that looks like only the end of the breather has melted but if it isn't, 8mm inside diameter hose will be fine (left over from doing your throttle heater pipe)

I would say your guess as right, most likely gearbox or transfer case breather pipes. Move them and cut the ends off so they can breathe or you'll create more leaks. Water pump leaks do go everywhere as the water gets on the back of the pulley so ends up being thrown around. Looks like you've found the problem.

I can see why you are searching eBay, https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC8535 not exactly cheap are they?

Remember they have to start somewhere. Of the many cars I've owned in the past on one they started with the handbrake cable and assembled everything else around that and on the other they started with a wiper motor. There is always going to something that was fitted into the shell before everything else went in making it an absolute bastard to get to.