I can see why you are searching eBay, https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC8535 not exactly cheap are they?

Remember they have to start somewhere. Of the many cars I've owned in the past on one they started with the handbrake cable and assembled everything else around that and on the other they started with a wiper motor. There is always going to something that was fitted into the shell before everything else went in making it an absolute bastard to get to.

You're welcome to part number 1 from mine. As I have the LPG tank in the wheel well, the cover has been cut down the centre so one side can be lifted up and stuff fitted in where the tool carrier would live if it was still there. That means you can't lift the cover and prop it up as it just falls over, it has to be lifted right out to get to anything. As for part 2, both mine and the Ascot have neither there as one has the trailer electrical socket and the other has the LPG filler, although there is one on the SE that I can take off for you as it looks like that is going to be broken for spares anyway.

Shame you can't get hold of the press pack. According to https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/land_rover_rangerover_linley_auto only 1 was ever registered in the UK, or at least only one was registered as a Linley and that has been SORN (Statutory Off Road Notification) since 2015.

If you do have to change the rad, don't refit the two bolts at the bottom. They never line up so put strain on the bottom seal where the core joins the plastic end. Not even sure why the bolts are there, it sits in two rubber grommets at the bottom and is secured at the top. Gravity stops it from leaping out.

Even worse if you ask if you can bum a fag.......

David, Rutland Rover, does some off road events for road legal cars so he may have a few more suggestions.

Frickley is up near to Simon, there's also Devils Pit (http://www.devilspit.co.uk/offroad/) just north of Luton. Tried it once in the LSE which is when I discovered it had a busted rear half shaft so was front wheel drive only. It's on clay though so gets a bit slippy when wet, my two wheel drive Classic had to be towed up a very gentle slope by an old Lada Niva......

My inbox has been inundated with emails from just about everywhere announcing Black Friday deals although most seem to be just discount on stuff they've had in stock for years and can't get rid of. Rimmers are doing 17% off everything at the moment though but as they tend to be a bit more expensive than Island or LRDirect, it probably means they are just down to the same as everyone else.

no10chris wrote:

I did pour a kettle of water down it, all it did was freeze the door shut, lol

Should have boiled the kettle first......

Mine did it once years ago when it was stupidly cold. I poured a kettle full of hot water down the side of the door. Whether it was the heat from that or it just freed itself off anyway I don't know but it's never done it again. Heat gun would probably be better if you've got one.

I think he did in the end. That car of his would probably be one of, if not the, best in existence with the work he put into it. I assume his lady knows what it is worth and isn't going to let it go for peanuts unless she is going to keep it in his memory. See https://rangerovers.pub/topic/986-orangebean

Yes, the push in things are Cupsac, they are listed in Microcat with a part number and are available from Island (and probably others too), I think it's the bits that push into the Cupsacs that are needed. The white plastic bits that fit into the metal backing strip on the back of the door rubbing strips. When I took mine off I was careful not to break any but a couple came unclipped from the rubbing strips. I let them sit in hot water for a while to soften them so I could get them back in without breaking them. I can see how most would get broken or pulled out if someone just ripped the rubbing strips off the doors without taking too much care.

RutlandRover wrote:

I was able to undo mine with a 16mm 6 sided socket

That's what I use, a 1/2" drive spark plug socket for the smaller plugs.

Having looked at Microcat just out of interest, the Thor block still uses Imperial thread sizes but the heads seem to be a mix, inlet manifold bolts are shown as 3/8 UNC while exhaust manifold threads are M8. Bonkers......

As for Morat's Jeep, who knows, maybe they got a good deal on some metric bolts?

So does the GEMS P38. Most of the car is metric but the engine is Imperial so there's things like the exhaust manifold bolts are UNC but on a Thor they are M8. As the ARP stud kit is the same for GEMS and Thor I assume the Thor block still uses 7/16 UNC head bolts.

Looks like bad news. Assuming you mean the strange shaped white plastic ones that fit onto the back of the rubbing strips and push into the little plastic sockets, they come with the strips and aren't listed separately.

Put it this way, this was mine on the day they said it should be done by......

Not quite finished.

Good news but if it's anything like body shops over here, you won't see it until Christmas. You can guarantee it won't be done when they say it will.

3 base coats is ample, 2 would be normal for a good finish. You will be disappointed when you first see it as it will have the chav 'wet look' until it is flatted back. Normal way is that the clear coats are made up with less lacquer and more thinners on each coat, so the top coat will be thinned right down to give a really deep shine when polished.

FQJ102262PMA is RHD drivers (RH) door, the expensive one. Better to get one of Marty's refurbs. FQJ102281PMA is the RH door on a LHD car, and is the one I bought, so only has one microswitch and the keyswitch lever is missing. I've done a mix and match with a spare RHD drivers latch to swap the missing bits and microswitches over to turn it into a RHD drivers latch. Just got to get around to fitting it now.