If it's a solenoid contact problem, you will still hear the solenoid click, just the starter doesn't turn. If it does nothing at all it's likely to be brushes as the solenoid engages in series with the starter so it is turning slowly and slots into the ring gear easily. Brushes can be changed but, as Clive says, it's messy.
I think the black plug, grey plug was just to make identifying what you had easier. If someone wanted a new sensor but wasn't able to supply a VIN number, it would be easier just to ask what colour plugs it has.
It is but I'd still suspect the O ring on the heater outlet rather than a core plug considering the age of your car. Unless you've been regularly driving it through sea water or it's been run for years with plain water in the cooling system I wouldn't expect core plugs to have rusted through this soon (unless LR ran short towards the end of the production run and bought some Britpart ones......).
Not sure they are, they are a strange square shaped thing. They may use econoseal pins and sockets but not the housings. I'd be inclined to change the connectors for supaseal or similar if the originals are getting a bit crusty. One of mine may well be the same, I get a logged lambda heater fault on one, despite having changed the sensor, but as it isn't used 99.5% of the time, I've not done anything about it.
The other thing you can try if you don't mind taking the cluster out again, is to turn the bulbs slightly. They twist in (as you must know having changed the bulbs) but the ends of the tracks can get tarnished. So if you twist them in then back them off a touch so the contacts are bearing on a clean area of the track, that might do the trick. Otherwise you could be looking at a break in the track feeding them. I've got a spare scrap cluster, I'll have a look at it and see if I can see where the track could have broken.
They are on LRCat, Allbrit.de and microcat on page G02035, item 2, although all of them say for GEMS but the blocks are the same. You can get a set from various manufacturers from LRDirect (https://www.lrdirect.com/602152-Core-Plug-V8-Block/?keep_https=yes). There's 4 on each side of the block about half way up and you should be able to see them from underneath without taking anything off.
Also, if you look in RAVE at Overhaul Manuals (rather than workshop manuals), Engines, V8, Description and Operation, page 2, it shows a pretty grotty picture of the engine components. Core plugs are numbered 4.
Edit to say that you found it while I was looking it up....... Although that picture only shows 3 there's actually 4 on each side, one adjacent to each cylinder.
Are the rest of the panel lights coming on? You haven't turned the brightness down to nothing have you?
Yes, the shorter one attached to hose 14. but equally it could be the return as that is steel too. They are here, under Water Rail in the engine section rather than the cooling system for some unknown reason. There's also an O ring that would be where I would start.
Unless it's a core plug on that side of the block, I'd be looking at the heater inlet pipe. That's about all there is on that side that can leak. The pipe/hose layout on a GEMS is a bit different but I had to replace the steel section on mine as it was leaking.
Some of you will have met him at the summer camp, others will know him from his knowledgable posts on here and on the dark side. I PM'd those that knew him a few weeks ago as he had emailed me to say that he had been diagnosed with Leukaemia, was in hospital on chemotherapy but expected to be up and about in around 10 weeks. I emailed him a few days ago asking how things were going and received the following email a few minutes ago:
Hello Richard
I'm sorry but Mark died today - he contracted a horrid fungal chest infection and spent 12 days sedated in intensive care but his lungs deteriorated over night and they had to take him off the ventilator today. PLease can you let all his landrover friend and P38ers know
He was a huge charcter and will be very much missed.
Vici
RIP mate, you'll be missed.
Mine gives a bit of a hard change going down when the idle is above normal (like when cold or when I had a sticky throttle butterfly) but so smooth if the revs are at idle that you have to look at the rev counter to see if it has actually changed down. If it was on something older with a kickdown cable I'd say it was that being out of adjustment but as it's electronic it may need driving to learn the shift points again.
Does seem a bit steep. I meant to ask my daughter's boyfriend as he's in insurance but it all went quiet. With club entry we would have got our own parking area and as we don't have a club as such, then it would have been a bit odd.
Looking at this https://www.thebillingoffroadexperience.co.uk/world-record-attempt/ it appears it's £8 for a day and another fiver to enter the world record attempt. So who's going?
At least it's an easy job to do. Not quite the easiest though. Received an email from my mate in France who had discovered that the passenger side carpet was soaking wet (UK car), thought it might be an AC drain so thought he would ask me before tearing the dash apart. My reply was:
Put suspension on high and leave a door open (engine off). Crawl underneath and if you look up the side of the gearbox about where the cable connects, you'll see a conical rubber thing hanging out of the underside of the car. Squeeze that and you'll get water, mud and dead leaves all down your arm. You are spot on, it is the AC drain and they clog up.
Half an hour later I received this:
Yep, a thing a bit like a black rubber sea anemone.
Squeezed it and was rewarded with a T-shirt sleeve full of water with black scummy bits in.
I wish all P38 problems were as easy to fix!!
He can't say I didn't warn him, he just didn't expect there to be quite that much water in the drain tubes......
A hose is a hose so you would think they should be OK. I got one Britpart one that was too small and no amount of persuasion or lube would make it fit and I've heard that sometimes the ones with Tee's in them leak at the joins (or the plastic Tee's crack). Otherwise I can't see them being a problem.
So did we get club entry or have we got to book in ourselves?
Who is still up for it anyway as it might be worth meeting up somewhere outside and arriving in style.....
Blend motors, yup
Headlining, yup,
Suspension, yup
Heated seats, hmm, maybe we leave that one to Marty. I did mine but I'd need more than a weekend......
The later the better for me. I don't have anything needed on mine but I'll give others a hand with whatever.
But if you do choose to use nuts and bolts, make sure you use washers and nyloc nuts or you'll be pulling the door panel off again in a few days to stop it from rattling.
Simple test to see if you've got all the air out is to take the header tank cap off and squeeze the top hose. If you get a constant squirt into the tank from the hose from the bleed nipple on top of the radiator, then you should be OK. I always use that as a final 'get the air out' move. Squeeze the top hose, put finger over the hole where the water would squirt out and release the top hose. Do that a few times and if you get a constant stream each squeeze and can't hear any gurgling noises, then you have got rid of all the air. It doesn't matter if the heater is on hot or not. It's a full flow system where the temperature is adjusted by flap valves in the airflow rather than a tap in the heater feed like lesser vehicles. With the thermostat closed the coolant can't go anywhere other than through the heater so that will flush any air in that straight out and back to the header tank.
Leaves in the fans usually get in through the pollen filter housings so if you are lucky you can fish them out through there. If you can't, just try winding the fan up to full and leaving it, it will soon get spat out into the trunking.....
When you reconnect a battery it will stay in the state that it was in when it was disconnected, so if it was unlocked when you took it off, it will stay unlocked. It is only if it was locked when the battery was disconnected (or went flat) that it will immediately lock itself again. Windows not set is normal. The window position is stored in memory and by disconnecting the battery that has wiped the memory so they need to be set again.
The rattling noise may be normal. There's a small spring loaded weight in the drive from the locking motor which will rattle.
I'd be up for lending a hand at a summer camp if one happens but July is pretty busy for me too (as we'll be moving house) so August would be better.
The thing that fails on them is the 3 microswitches. They all switch to ground (black wire) so you can test each one of those with a meter. Earlier cars had three individual switches that could be changed fairly easily but the later ones have three in one block that makes things a bit more difficult.