It sounds like you may have a leak from the tank. Although the air springs and valve block aren't leaking so it doesn't drop, it may be losing pressure in the tank. Easy way to check is to start it after it has been standing overnight, drop the suspension down to Access height and then send it back up to High. If it goes straight up, the tank has plenty of pressure in it but I suspect it will need to refill the tank before it goes back up. That suggests a leak at the tank itself, the dryer or the pressure switch on the bottom of the valve block.
Should really have cleaned the MAF first, do a reset, then drive it. It will need a variation of different driving conditions, slow acceleration, hard acceleration, constant speed cruising,etc for it to set the values as they should be. Then switch it to gas and see what it is like. The TPS has a big influence on auto gear changes but so does calculated load value which it gets from a combination of TPS, MAF and revs.
If you are losing pressure in the tank and you've had the valve block apart, most likely place is the pressure switch. You'll most likely have had it out and it hasn't got a good seal so is allowing the tank to drain while standing. You wouldn't ordinarily notice it if you have no other leaks anywhere as no pressure in the tank would only show up if you dropped it down and tried to get it to rise back up. If you did that after it's been running for a while it would be fine as the tank would have had chance to fill. PTFE plumbers tape on the pressure switch, and doing it up tighter than you think feels necessary, works well.
I was thinking the same but afraid I'm not going to have time to give you a hand with yours. My MoT is due at the end of the month and I knew the exhaust was getting a little tired so had a crawl around underneath last night to see if there was anything else. OS rear axle oil seal leaking, OS front drag link gaiter perished and split and some weird marking on the rear brake discs which probably explains the slight brake judder under braking from speed that I sometimes get. Not normal brake judder, more a sort of shudder through the whole car. I'll get some photos of them when I change them (probably this weekend) for the pair of Delphi ones I've just ordered from Island. The ones on there are Allmakes and have only been there for 16 months (and have a 1 year warranty so out of luck there).
Definitely sounds like something isn't right. With mine set to Auto, which it invariably always is, the fan speed varies as needed. I keep it set on 20 degrees and in this weather the fan speed starts off slowly but within a few seconds speeds up to max. It then varies as needed to try to keep the interior at 20 degrees. If the sun is shining on the sensor on top of the dash the fan speed stays high but if the sun goes in or I stop in the shade, the fan speed drops. Sounds like yours isn't doing as it should, or you've got no sun in Scotland......
Nope, nothing as yet.
Won't do me a lot of good, mine are gutted. Maybe I should have taken the stuff I bashed out to the scrap man?
Mukiwa wrote:
When I checked my RF levels my wireless thermostat is on 933MHz,
I hope it isn't, that's in the middle of the O2/Voda downlink band. It'll be on 433 (most likely) or 868 if it's very new. My stat should, according to the manufacturers data sheet, transmit every 10 minutes (no idea why, I would have thought only when something needs to change would be quite sufficient) rather than every 20 seconds or so. I'll deal with it once it gets to the stage that the heating is actually needed. Probably screen part of it so it fires it's signal up the stairs to the boiler and not outside to the car. Be wary of what you see from an SDR, they are barn door wide on the front end and will see harmonics and spurious that aren't really there. Then again, having 32 grands worth of portable spectrum analyser as personal issue means I'm a bit spoilt......
Intermittent high resistance connection. By pulling it out you've moved something so now it works. Question is, for how long?
Lpgc wrote:
the forum I linked to above just had it's first legal threat from a vehicle import firm after someone left a bad review claiming a vehicle they'd paid a deposit on and went to buy had been clocked. Someone suggested that the site could cover it's own back by adding a disclaimer to every post to the effect 'the views expressed by users are not necessarily the views of this forum',
Not necessary. It isn't the forum that action would need to be taken against but the author of the post. If he could prove what he wrote was correct, then the firm wouldn't have a leg to stand on. If it was just a suspicion that would be different unless he specifically said he suspected it had been clocked and not that it actually had been. The forum is just a place to publish your views to a wider audience, no different to standing outside the firms premises with a big placard saying that they are selling clocked vehicles. They wouldn't be able to take legal action against the council for providing the pavement for him to stand on.
BrianH wrote:
I've not heard off Richard H in a while, neither has Dave who has developed the Filllpg App.
Neither have I but he must still be around. I've emailed him to see if he is one of the other interested parties and suggested he should be if he isn't. The LPG Forum and his site go hand in hand really.
Taking it out and attacking it with a soldering iron would be much cheaper.......
i would have thought the most logical, non-commercial, person to take it over would be Richard who runs Filllpg.co.uk. I've got his email address I'll drop him a note.
Feed to the high level brake light goes via a connector tucked up above the headlining next to where the rubber tube goes between the body and upper tailgate. Might be worth looking there first.
I've found these work best as long as the weight is downwards https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-32mm-100-pack
Another thought. Do you know anyone with personal AA cover? I get mine as part of a package with my Lloyds bank account and it covers me for any vehicle I'm in, even as a passenger. Get down there with your token AA member and tell them it's just died. While, like you, I feel pretty confident at being able to sort most things at the side of the road, there's only so many spares you can carry and if you need something you don't have with you and can't buy it locally, you're stuffed. On the two occasions I've used the AA in the P38, the first time the belt tensioner bearing collapsed at a filling station in Harlow and they took me, the car and the empty car transporter trailer I was towing back home. The second time when my water pump bearing exploded about 5 miles from the land Rover factory, they arranged a hire car for us to continue our journey and the car arrived home at about 11pm that same night on the back of a transporter.
Good point, depends which model it is as they are rated at anything from 2.2 tonnes up to 3.5 tonnes. If it is one rated at 2.2 no chance, as an empty trailer capable to taking the weight of an Elgrand weighs a tonne unladen and I suspect an Elgrand will weigh a bit more than 1.2 tonnes..
No, it is MoT tested on whatever fuel it is running on when bought in for test irrespective of what it says on the V5. Different insurance companies have different rules (sometimes even depending on who you talk to at the company), some aren't interested, some will accept that it has passed an MoT running on LPG, some want it to be on the V5 while others insist it is on the DriveLPG register, but you may as well do it. As yours is post April 2001, you'll get a whole £10 a year off your road tax too. Of the last 4 LPG cars I've owned only 1 had it shown on the V5, so the DVLA estimate of 150,000 LPG cars on the roads means that there's likely to nearer half a million. They just don't know about them. If there are to be any concessions for LPG powered vehicles at some time in the future, it's better that they know how many there actually are and not just treat it as a minority fuel that can be ignored.
Sounds a bit like Lyon. You can drive through the centre or follow the signs for the ring road. Driving through the centre makes a pleasant change from sitting at a constant 65-80 mph (depending on how much weight I have hanging off the back) to cruise alongside the river rather than sitting on yet more motorway. About 20 minutes quicker through the centre too as long as you don't hit it at rush hour. That's actually the main reason I paid my 4 Euros for the vignette, without it I wouldn't be allowed to use the centre route at any time. Driving on the Continent makes you realise just how congested our roads are. I've driven for hours at a time on main beam because there simply isn't anything else on the roads to cause you to have to dip the lights.
Redraptor141 wrote:>
Anyone know if when I remove the bonnet does the bonnet open warning keep the BECM awake?
The BeCM will still go to sleep with the bonnet open, just as it does at any other time. It sleeps after 2 minutes if there is no changes to the state of anything.