Yup, he's right. Click on Portal and it says you need a plug in to configure. Looks like something has been left half done when the last update was done.

Dunno, as long as it didn't have a roof. Sort of P38 sports car really......

There used to be a guy around here with a Defender pickup with a V8 that sounded far from standard and looked pretty good (painted in sliver with a chrome roll bar behind the cab and a 110 litre LPG cylinder in the back). I've thought that a 110 pickup body on a P38 chassis could be fun. I'd keep the EAS and as much of the P38 niceties too.

Welcome. I nearly contacted you over there by PM under my assumed name (I got banned for life under this one and never did get an explanation why) but it was me that gave you the info on the different types of Alpine stereo. I've only ever owned V8s and had heard all the stories about how gutless the diesels are. Having now worked on one (but not the engine, I don't touch diesel engines) and driven it, they are different. They rev much higher before changing up and while they can keep up with the flow of traffic, they'll never win any drag races. Once up to cruising speed, it's still a P38 with all the nicer bits.

A background in electronics helps with a P38 but the ability to diagnose things in a logical way is just as important.

Sodium Silicate is the leak sealing ingredient in Steel Seal and does work under certain circumstances, a slight weep around a liner would be one of those circumstances. It turns into a solid, almost like glass but stays as a liquid in the coolant so shouldn't clog a radiator or heater matrix. A small quantity is present in some brands of anti freeze even. Cheapest way of buying it is as a liquid like here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500ml-Water-glass-Sodium-silicate-liquid-glass/140726670858 and you know that is all you are using and not Sodium Silicate with other additives to 'improve' it.

But, I'm more inclined to think along the lines of a dodgy plug.

If the pipes exit through the centre of the wheel well like mine, then he's fitted a single hole toroidal tank which has the inlet and outlet in the centre. This is the standard install on most cars. As it has a gas tight lid and a vent out of the bottom, you can't take the pipes up and out the top. A 4 hole tank has the connections on the outside of the tank so could come out of the side of the wheel well. There's nothing to stop you putting a skid over the pipes to protect them though.

I assume you'll be back at work soon. Then you'll have Flogas just down the road so you can fill up at 54p a litre. I assume Simon fitted a 4 hole tank so the pipes can come out of the side of the wheel well and not out of the bottom (like mine) where they can get clouted when you go off roading?

There have been cheap Chinese copy of NGK plugs reported and there's something about the base of that plug that doesn't look quite right. Apart from anything else it appears to say Made in France on it and it seems these aren't genuine NGK. See http://hyundaicoupeclub.co.uk/engine-wheels-brakes-suspension/where-find-genuine-ngk-spark-plugs-t24689.html

The smaller of the two plugs gives the ground so you'll get no door open signal (and hence no interior lights when you open that door) and you may also find that the central locking only works one way. With no ground on one side of the CDL switch you'll find that it will lock on the central locking but won't unlock as the lack of ground from the switch makes things think it is already unlocked. It's that same CDL switch that has failed which is causing the dancing locks.

A reconditioned latch (with new switches) from Marty is only £70 exchange so not too expensive http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=60

The broken bits are from where someone has smashed the old latch as it had jammed in the superlocked position so aren't from the one that is in there. I suspect they smashed the old one and fitted a secondhand replacement with iffy switches.

Morat seems to have summed it up nicely. What you have to remember is that the computer doesn't measure petrol flow, in fact it doesn't measure anything. All it does is calculate it from what it can see. It knows what the fuel pressure is and is being told how long the injectors are being opened for so from those two readings, it can calculate how much fuel you are using and therefore your fuel consumption. If the reading when running on petrol and LPG are identical, then the LPG system is set up absolutely spot on and the petrol ECU isn't having to alter the fuel trims to get things correct. Run it around for a while to let things settle, then check it again. If it gives a wildly different reading when on gas to when on petrol then it will need the calibration tweaking but if it is roughly the same, then there's no need.

Heard of it lots of times. Vaporisers can leak just like anything else when it starts to get a bit long in the tooth. If it's a Bigas, Tinley Tech will also sell you an overhaul kit with new diaphragms and gaskets. Or, as you say, they aren't that expensive so just bung a new one on.

But coolant in number 6? There's no coolant passages near the middle cylinders, only at each end of the heads so next to numbers 2 and 8. Unless it's getting in around the liner......

Slipped liners are a lit less common than some people would have you believe, a temp gauge that goes up and down is more likely as a result of low coolant level. Usually cause by air locks so make sure you fill the system full and get rid of any air. A P38 is no less reliable than any other 20 year old upmarket car, Christ mine came up at 354,000 miles a couple of nights ago and other than having to replace the air con condenser recently, the last time I did anything to it was 9,000 miles ago when I gave it a set of plugs and new oil and filter.

Scary when you've got no pressure isn't it. A few years ago my ABS pump burnt itself out just outside Lyon. Stopping on the hydrostatic circuit only involved both feet on the brake pedal, especially when you've got a 3 tonne trailer on the back and the brakes couldn't stop it quick enough to cause the over run brake to kick in.

That sounds about right, CO when running on LPG is usually very low even though the limit is 3.5%. Mine came out at 0.3% and that is with gutted cats. Borderline to pass the CAT test for petrol but I could probably get it down low enough if I wanted with a tweak of the LPG system settings.

As it's a powered system, bleeding process is completely different to a conventional jam jar, pipe and up down on the pedal method. You must follow the process correctly or you'll have no brakes at all.

Easy check for the accumulator is to turn the ignition on and wait until the ABS pump stops. Then press the brake pedal. If you get 2 or 3 presses before the pump cuts in again, it's fine. However, if you have air in the power brake circuit (one circuit on the fronts and the only circuit to the rear) you don't get a spongy pedal like you do on a conventional system, you get a delay between pressing the pedal and the brakes coming on (as the fluid has to compress the air before moving the caliper piston)s. That also means that more fluid needs to move so the pump will cut in sooner so giving the brakes a full bleed as per the book to make sure there is no air in there would be the first thing to do.

I can now report that a Britpart condenser doesn't leak when new. System was leak tested and re-gassed last week and it's still working. How long for is anyone's guess but you never know, there's no moving parts, so it might be OK.

I have always left the wheels on too and jacked up under the towbar. My 3 tonne trolley jack will go high enough to just get both rear wheels off the ground although having them dangling actually makes the job harder. Use the Nano to let the pressure out and they'll go floppy. You'll find getting the top clips out will be a real pain but as the air springs are shot anyway, there is the destructive method. Bend the top clip until it breaks off (which won't take a lot of doing as they will be rusted to hell anyway). Slide a 1" wood chisel between the chassis and body so it sits on the top of the airspring mount on the chassis and give it a good clout. That will chop the top off the airspring making getting it out much simpler and will allow you to drop the chopped off top through the mounting hole so you can disconnect the pipe from underneath.

Good point, no idea if it is a battery backed sounder or not but I know it works (managed to set it off twice while mucking around at the weekend). That's another thing to disconnect while the meter is measuring the current draw.