I used my engine crane to change the engine on a Toyota MR2. Used it first to lower the unbolted engine down to the ground, then used it to lift the body up. Slid old engine out and new one in, then lowered the body back down and lifted the engine up into place.

I'll own up and admit I very nearly bought one exactly the same as that (yes, an Orvis with real leather and wood that somehow the Yanks manage to make look like plastic), except it didn't have the scrapes on the front or the mangled filler flap. But I decided that at £800 it was too expensive so over 4 grand is just plain silly.

If you paste a link into the box marked Image above, it'll show like the second one has.

For the first one I had to open it, right click and select copy image location and paste that into the box.

I must admit, it looks even nicer than the H&H. How about a picture of all 3?

Considering you own one example of probably the 3 most desirable P38s ever produced, anything else is only going to be a disappointment.

How to post pictures is here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/193-archives-and-posting-pictures-documents but rather than photobucket most now use imgur.com as it's free.

Isn't there something on the Thor engine where there's a plug for the coils and another plug that should go somewhere else that can be interchanged? Have you connected everything up right?

Any generic OBD code reader should tell you which cylinder is misfiring with a P030x code, although you might be unlucky and just get P0300 which means multiple misfires. The price of the Nanocom keeps going up as it's priced in Euros. When I got mine the pound was worth almost 1.5 Euros, now it's down to 1.08.....

3 and 5 plug leads reversed? Easily done as they are next to each other.

Have you bought a Westminster now?

It's definitely outwards, it's much louder underneath the car and no different with the oil filler off. I was expecting to be able to see flames blowing out of the gap and was a bit disappointed when I couldn't. That would have told me which pot it was too but using the infra red thermometer on the manifold was a pretty good clue and pulling the HT lead definitely confirmed it. There's no immediate rush for it but I'll probably make a start on it Sunday and then do a bit in the evenings. Got to order a gasket set anyway and I suspect the head is going to need skimming too. It'll be interesting to get it apart as the engine was rebuilt 3 or 4 years ago. It's already got a stud kit fitted and when he bought it he was told it has a Kent cam and stage 2 heads. It's certainly quick, even running on 7 and a half.

Mate bought me his car over the other evening. Despite running fine it sounds more like a traction engine than a V8. He's had it for just over a year and it has always had a slight noise but recently it has been getting worse. He's already replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets thinking it was blowing from the head to manifold joint but that made no difference. I was starting to suspect a head gasket blowing out of the side of the block. See what you think..... https://youtu.be/dKEqPY5rX7A

Unplug the RH multiway connector to the instrument cluster and give it a dose of contact cleaner. It's driven by the engine speed pulse train from the engine ECU so I doubt that is wrong......

Problem with that is that the fob won't work as it's been coded to the car it was ordered for and can't be coded to a different car. Far simpler to just get the handle alone and swap the lock barrel over. Much cheaper too https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ALR8122

Don't forget that you've got two separate circuits. One needs the normal pump the pedal to push fluid through while the other one just needs the pedal pressing with the ignition on so the pressure from the pump does the work.

Dropping the subframe is the best bet and you've got the gear for doing it already. Just unbolt it and let it sit on the floor then use your chain block to lift the front of the car off it.

Told you it was possible. Was it fairly simple or a bit of a pita?

For starters you don't have a master cylinder but you do have the brake modulator. I'd start by giving it a full fluid flush, if you've never done it, it may well have never had one. That will be easier if you get the car up in the air on axle stands so that will give you the opportunity to check the calipers and sliders while you are at it. It might also be worth pulling the reservoir off the modulator and making sure it is nice and clean in there too. Very unlikely to be reluctor rings as they would cause an ABS fault.

Unless it has always been sitting halfway through it's travel, then it's unlikely that it has seized, it's not going to suddenly seize while running, so a lack of volts would seem to be the most likely cause.

Whenever I did anything like that on a GT6/Herald/Spitfire, I used to take the transmission tunnel out (only a few bolts) so you could get to the bellhousing bolts from inside the car. Made it even better if it was raining...... I once changed a clutch on a Spitfire doing everything from inside.

God that's awful. But only to be expected in Essex I suppose.....

We've told you how to put pics up but as you use an iPad, it's a bit different to most of us (and you being a computer numpty doesn't help either).....

2 of us once changed the engine on a Morris Marina using a lump of 4x4 fence post and a couple of rope slings. Known as the great white hunter method......