But not when you try to change range? Does it only not work when it's hot so won't change range or not work at all? I know you've swapped the ECU but it does point to a problem there, or at least the wiring between it and the rest of the car.

It is an auto I assume as the wiring is a bit different on a manual.

Quite possibly, Monaco plates too so money was no object.......

I'm with Dave on this one, it's pretty much G4 Challenge look. Whoever has done it (very recently by the wet look paint job) has at least done the pillars and door shuts rather than leaving them whatever the original colour was. Shame about the engine, wheels and Sport vents in the front wings though, with a V8 and big bore stainless exhaust it could be quite decent (ish),

Nowt to do with the XYZ switch, that deals with the gear position on the main gearbox, not the transfer box. You can use the Nanocom to check the light if you go into the BeCM section and then under utilities it allows you to switch on and off each dash light in turn. That will confirm that while the bulb may be good and test OK out of the dash, it may not be working in the dash (usual problem is a poor contact between the bulbholder and pcb). I've just looked at RAVE and can't see a temp sensor mentioned anywhere. There's an output speed sensor on the back of the transfer case though.

Or have a word with Marty in Swindon. He's got the kit, the workshop and has done quite a few in the past.

Not sure which input is used in the Clarion, I just followed the instructions here http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/index.html#clarion (except I soldered the wires to the back of the pcb and not to the pins on the socket side, much neater) and it looks like Clarion do exactly the same. No matter whether you are using the radio or CD as soon as audio is detected on that input it switches to it and plays that. The display still shows what you were playing before. Not sure if it does the same if you are playing a cassette, I'll have to see if I can find one to try it. It does mean that the line in becomes an additional input rather than instead of something else.

So the one that Rutland Rover has should work then? I would suspect the wiring is there, it is on mine and that was supplied with no radio at all. Is there a simple way of putting a line in on the Alpine unit? It's dead easy on the Clarion and works really well, auto switching to line in as soon as it detects a signal on the input.

Grom do a unit that gives you USB, Bluetooth and Line in but at £130 it isn't cheap, even their Line In alone unit is £60. I know the Clarion used in the earlier P38 can be modified very easily to have the line in (done 2 for other people and it does work very well) but not so sure about the Alpine in later cars. Might be that it needs to be done as you did yours by inserting the audio in the line from the CD changer. In theory there'd be nothing to stop you from putting a switch in line to give you the choice between CD and line in.

You can add the line in and then use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-Male-AUX-Audio-Plug-to-USB-2-0-A-Female-Jack-OTG-Convertr-Lead-Adapter-BLK/322473958992 but reading the ad it looks like the head unit has to do the decoding so it outputs data rather than audio. The other way of doing it would be to use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-Mini-Digital-MP3-Music-Player-LCD-Sn-Metal-Support-32G-MicroSD-Card-TR/142858761854 and a 3.5 to 3.5mm lead to connect the headphones socket on the player to the line in on the stereo.

The original Clarion in the Ascot was dead so I sent it to Clarion for repair, it came back fully working, with the code removed and a line in added. I've plugged my phone in and streamed audio from that and I've got a similar player and that works fine too.

The buttons drive a simple resistive ladder circuit so although you would probably need an adapter to convert the outputs into something an Android unit can understand, yes, they could be used with a bit of effort.

It won't as it only has two outputs, left and right. The front/rear fade and sub was all done in the DSP amp.

If it didn't have the buttons before it is because the radio fitted isn't capable of being controlled by them (and there's probably no connection on the back of the radio for them either). The DSE is the diesel version of the SE spec and my SE doesn't have the buttons, or a radio capable of being controlled by them, either. The Ascot is HSE spec, has the buttons and they work with the original head unit.

BrianH wrote:

7/8/12/13 i would say are to secure the heatshield to the engine/manifold in some way. They look like they should go into the holes shown in the heatshields on 9/14 in the middle of the part, but thats only a guess.

They are. The heatshields are in two halves but are only held in place by those two in the centre, without them they would just rattle about as they only actually touch the manifolds where they wrap around the downpipes.

Most of the discs you find on eBay are just the very same version of RAVE that I have. Originally RAVE came on 3 CD's each covering different models, there's P38, L322 and Defender on one, Discovery 1, Freelander 1 and Range Rover Classic on the second and Disco 2 and Freelander 2 on the third. I've got all 3 if anyone needs them as they are the original UK versions rather than the version that covers all models which is an amalgamation of the US versions. Not that there is that much difference (as LR obviously couldn't be bothered to amend it too much for the US market) but there are a few slight differences.

Adam described his as being 3/8th 16 (tpi I assume) so if that is UNC rather than UNF that it what they will be.

Rimmers are excellent for delivery but I don't use them that often unless it's halfway through the afternoon and I need something for tomorrow. They tend to be a little more expensive than the others and their website doesn't give as much information either. With the others you can put in a part number and it will confirm VIN ranges , LHD or RHD, etc, Rimmers just tells you a price, no details and no indication of the make, it's either genuine or aftermarket. Like you, I'll happily use aftermarket if it is Bearmach or Allmakes and genuine is usually far too expensive to even think about!

Never seen one with a light in the cubby box but you never know. What colour are the wires on the random plug?

4 are the actual bolts that hold the manifold to head and are shown as M8 on Microcat but as Adam found here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1093-helicoil-for-snapped-manifold-bolt they may be M8 on later cars but were UNF on earlier ones. The earlier ones also had a 12mm bi-hex head just to make life difficult. Length is 35mm (or at least that's the length of the threaded bit) and if you intend replacing them, go for Allen bolts instead..

10 and 15 (quite why they are listed twice as the part numbers are the same) are for the heatshield and are little ones (M6, 8mm hex headed and can be an absolute pig to get out as getting to them all isn't easy) and the inner heatshield has small Rivnuts that they screw into.

7, 8, 12 and 13 screw into the manifold. There are two per manifold but different lengths (screwed into the flat plate section between the ports) and have a threaded hole in the end for another small M6 bolts. The picture shows them the opposite way round to everything else as the threaded end screws into the manifold.

No, it's an OBD code reader so will only do diagnostics on stuff that is in the OBD standard which is mainly emissions related. Not even sure why it can read data from the gearbox but it can.

Better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, but you ain't going to be retiring on it........

Well damn me, it isn't even though it was a couple of days ago. They only list the Britpart and Reinz ones now.. LRDirect list an Allmakes gasket set and the Elring head gaskets separately, that might be the way to go (or just bite the bullet and get the Reinz set)