I wouldn't put that much in, don't forget that modern petrol starts to go off after about 3 months so you'll end up with a tank full of stale petrol. 5 gallons should be easily enough.

The rails with solenoids are the injectors, each solenoid is an injector. Do they look like this? http://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-parts/valtek-type-30-4-cyl-injector-rail-with-nozzles/

No matter how low the idle is, then turning off just one injector shouldn't make it stall, it's still got 7 others that are running. However, as your engine batch fires the petrol injectors (it doesn't fire them one at a time but fires all 4 on each bank together) it may be that you aren't turning one injector off but one bank of cylinders. They will run on 4 but only just......

The lambda sensors control the fuelling on petrol and the LPG system just piggy backs off the petrol system. Instead of the pulses from the petrol ECU firing the petrol injectors, it fires into the LPG controller, which adds a fiddle factor (the difference in inj time between petrol and gas) and fires the LPG injectors instead. So if it isn't running right on petrol it never will run right on gas.

Just had a look at his video and screen shots. It does have an item marked GEMS Adaptives under Change Settings, so whether that shows what they currently are or not is anyone's guess, have a look and see or if it only lets you reset them without showing what they were before. I notice that he did get the HEVAC module working which wasn't when he first released it.

super4 wrote:

Well I'm in good hands with Brian and Gilbert - just as a curious boy at back of class - tell me - If fuel is low and I do the 'reset adaptives' with my Storey EAS are you saying that the ECU says to itself 'Fuel low - ignore Adaptive reset' and therefore does not carry out any reset ? I'm sure that is a tricky one for you - expect you know though !

Easy enough for you to check. Read the fuel trims which are very unlikely to be 0%, or the adaptive FMFR and see what they read. Then do a reset and see if they have changed or not. If they haven't, then the reset hasn't happened, if they have, it has.

oilmagnet477 wrote:

You make an interesting point but to be fair, for the DIY'er at least, there is often no choice but to replace parts, therefore turning us in to unwilling 'fitters'. Many parts these days are not serviceable items and even if you can get them apart, finding spares is often tricky.

That's right but to attempt to service a part then you must have worked out what part is at fault. Particularly on something older without OBD connectivity you are down to good old fashioned logical faulting. It is this that is sorely lacking these days. The classic problem is a car that doesn't run right. OBD says the lambda sensor is showing permanently lean. Is this a faulty sensor, an air leak, a clogged fuel filter, a weak fuel pump. There's any number of things that it could be and in the old days you would go through a logical diagnosis process. You'd check for air leaks (spraying carb cleaner on all the intake areas), check flow through the fuel filter, check fuel pressure and flow through the pump and so on. If they all said everything was OK, you'd conclude the sensor is telling lies and change that. That logical approach seems to have been lost these days. With something running a carb, it was even more of a black art. Hardly anyone these days understands what goes on inside a carb and how the slow running jets, progression jets, main jets, accelerator pump, etc all interact with each other but that was second nature to the old school mechanic.

Simon, one thing you have probably missed is that although this is predominately a P38 forum he says he has a Disco 1. Rather than using the Thor engine as in the Disco 2, the Disco 1 used the 14CUX engine with a distributor for ignition as in a Range Rover Classic so will be batch fired anyway.

Sounds like you've got it. Centre the steering box then centre the steering wheel. Once they are centred you can adjust the drag link so the wheels are straight too. You'll probably find that the drag link takes some shifting, when I did mine it involved heat, Plug Gas and a pair of Stilsons with a 6 foot length of scaffold pole slipped over the end before it started to move. My steering wheel is out, or at least the upper steering column is out, as the indicators cancel at a different point depending on whether I'm indicating left or right. Doesn't seem to have done the rotary coupler any harm although mine only deals with the horn and airbag, none of these fancy buttons on the steering wheel for plod.

ECU model will be engraved on the casing with Tartarini on a sticker..AEB supply controllers to numerous manufacturers but with different firmware depending on who's label is on it.

You can check tinj petrol when running on petrol and compare it with tinj petrol when on gas, they should be the same. Then check tinj petrol with tinj gas, tinj gas should be between 1.2 and 1.5x tinj petrol.

If it stalls when turning off just one injector there is something seriously wrong. What you are doing is switching a cylinder from gas to petrol so you'll have 7 on gas and one on petrol if you switch them one at a time. So it shouldn't make any difference in reality unless there is something else wrong. What injectors are fitted and although you say you've cleaned the injector rails, have you done the injectors themselves?

A lot less than an hour. If it isn't finishing it has found something it isn't happy with so isn't going through the full cycle. Which Tartarini system? One of the ones using the AEB2568 controller with different firmware hopefully. Lambdas don't need to be connected, it just means that you can't see the lambda output without having to have a code reader showing live data plugged in at the same time. If you monitor the lambdas you should be able to see why it doesn't complete. What makes you think you need to recalibrate anyway? What have you changed?

Looking at the picture full size, yes, you can still see the marks. Not as pronounced as on mine but very similar. It almost looks like there's impurities in the metal.

Injectors are injectors and the amount of fuel they inject is controlled by the ECU so changing them won't make a jot of difference. Unless of course you are in the USA where everything made there is far superior to anything made elsewhere.

Tornado chips work, see http://www.tornadosystems.com/ but not cheap.

Porting and polishing will give a benefit on any engine although on it's own you'd be unlikely to notice any difference.

Cam changes will make a difference but again, you won't see much of an effect when hauling over 2 tonnes with the aerodynamics of a large shed around. Turners do a Kent cam that seems to work well. I know one car with it fitted and it does feel marginally quicker.

Well over 300 bhp is possible if your pockets are deep enough, see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/products/engines/long_engines/5.4_litre/dominator/index.shtml

Fuel economy depends almost entirely on your right foot.....

Last time I looked at a Thor alternator that had been diagnosed as having a noisy bearing it felt fine while spinning it with my fingers and the howling was actually coming from the idler pulley below it. I'm a little intrigued though. What were you doing under the car when you were changing an alternator that lives on the top?

Problem with any oil leak is that the fan blows back over the engine so where it ends up may be nowhere near where it is coming out. Only place I can think of is the sump gasket.

It often isn't as most real mechanics have long since retired to be replaced with 'technicians', another name for parts fitters. Read a fault code and start changing bits until the fault goes away without really understanding what is happening and why.

Disco 2 has the same discs, pads and, I assume, calipers as the P38. Brakes were fine, except for the shudder under braking from speed, and both calipers were free with pistons pushing back in nicely. Brakes do seem to have slightly more bite now than they did although that might just be me taking more note of how they feel.

I mentioned in the Are We Froze thread that I'd noticed my rear discs were looking a bit odd so had them off today and fitted a set of Delphi discs and pads.. Having checked my order history with LR Direct, the discs I took off were Allmakes brand ones bought in April 2017. So they've been on there for 16 months and have covered around 30,000 miles. What i don't know is what pads I fitted when I put them in but they haven't fared well. All pads were worn down evenly and by the same amount, none were sticking in the carrier and the pins were sliding nicely. Nothing appeared to be wrong with anything except for the appearance of the discs.

The offside one had marks looking like it had been sitting for weeks with the pads in one place, score marks and felt rough to the touch. Both inner and outer faces of the disc were the same.

While the nearside one appeared scored everywhere and felt rough to touch yet the inside face was clean and looking as you would expect a fairly new disc to look.

I'm thinking either the Allmakes discs aren't good quality or aren't compatible with the pads I've used. In saying that I would have thought if the pads are too hard, they would wear the discs but they would still stay smooth? Anyone else come across anything similar?

The adaptives are things like a MAF correction factor, a correction to the fuel mapping to account for worn injectors, a drifted fuel pressure regulator and so on. As Brian says, on a brand new engine with brand new sensors and everything working as it should, then there will no corrections needed so the factory settings in the engine ECU will be spot on. But, you don't have brand new components so things will have aged and that is where the adaptive values come into play

Drop it down to Access height, push the collets in with a blunt screwdriver and pull the pipes out. Make sure there are no cats, dogs, children, etc under the car first though as it will drop a corner at a time as you pull each of the 4 going to the air springs out. The one nearest the front of the car (with a purple sleeve on it) is the outlet from the tank to the valve block so that one will probably have quite a bit of air behind it. The two larger 8mm ones, are the in and out to the dryer so won't have a lot, if any, pressure there and the small 4mm one at the rear is just a vent so won't have any pressure in it at all. As well as the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener, you'll also need the land Rover approved crochet hook for pulling the old O rings out (although I couldn't find one anywhere and ended up using a piece of 1.5mm copper wire with a hook bent in the end).

This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Valve-Block-o-ring-set-diaphragm-STC-1803/162092286791 this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38a-EAS-COMPRESSOR-PUMP-SEAL-VALVE-BLOCK-SEALS-DIAPHRAGM-INLET-FILTER/222186758097 (includes compressor seal) or this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-EAS-AIR-SUSPENSION-VALVE-BLOCK-O-RING-DIAPHRAGM-REPAIR-FIX-KIT/321451232414

Don't get one with the orange O rings that some suppliers sell, the O rings are too thin so don't seal well.

The free version of EASUnlock was, and still is, excellent. I used that and a generic OBD reader for the first 5 odd years of P38 ownership. When the latest version came out although the screenshots showed a tab for HEVAC, it didn't actually do the HEVAC. I emailed Storey, asked why and was told it would be added to later updates. That put me off a little as he does have a reputation for getting so far with a project and then getting bored and not progressing things. Hence not bothering and finally getting the Nanocom.

Yes, doing a reset and then doing 5 miles on closed throttle will cause it to not calibrate, it needs to see varying loads and conditions. GEMS will also not calibrate if there is less than 1/4 tank of petrol in too, in case any odd mixture running is cause by a low fuel level. Your best bet is to get it down off the mountain, do the reset and then drive it. Willys just had a carb so nothing electronic to reset, other than tweak the points every so often.

As for the gearchange, it should drop down a cog when it starts to struggle but won't if the adaptives haven't sorted themselves out. Giving it a bit more throttle should cause it to kickdown anyway.

Yup, diaphragm leaking. You are not the first, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/931-ooo-my-diaphragm and you won't really know about it until you try to raise the car and it doesn't. You can buy the valve block overhaul kit with or without the diaphragm or just the diaphragm on it's own so make sure you get the right one. Probably worth doing a full overhaul on the valve block, simple enough if you take your time. Make sure you have the Land Rover approved pencil sharpener though as the pipes will have grooves where the O rings sat and will need a millimetre or so trimming off the ends to make sure they seal properly.