The black/blue connectors are rubbish and always leak. You can pull the collect out and fit a second O ring and they work then but only if you have spare O rings. I've used these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812106/ and they are brilliant. Very slim so take up very little space and just don't leak.

I didn't mention the rest I carry, latex gloves, hand (and anything else) wiping rags, jump leads, tow rope and shackles, two gallons of water, litre of brake fluid, litre of ATF, spare bulbs and fuses and a couple of ratchet straps. Two Hi Viz vests live under the seat, as required in Europe (it has to be accessible from within the car) while the fire extinguisher and first aid kit are also in the boot. When I do my long distance continental journeys there's also a spare starter and alternator. As you can't bump start an auto, if your starter dies in the middle of nowhere, even if the rest of the car is perfect, you aren't going anywhere and with the reliance on electricity, a dead alternator will stop you too. Then there is my tool box with everything except the workshop only tools and, finally, a 3 tonne trolley jack.

Bugger, my old one was dumped at the side of the garage and the nearside cable was in good nick, it was the offside that was well worn. But, I moved house 6 weeks ago and, after taking the motor off, took the remains to the local dump. So I've got the motor and the glass but nothing else.

I keep a couple of metres of nylon pipe, a pipe joiner and 4 of the Schrader valve fillers in a poly bag in the boot as my emergency get me home kit. There's also a tyre compressor there anyway so I could manually pump it if needed. Never had to use it but it's there just in case. There's also a serpentine belt, a couple of bits of various sized coolant hose, hose clips, electrical and binding wire, PVC tape, tie wraps, assorted sized nuts and bolts and anything else that looks like it might come in useful. This lives in the wheel well next to the LPG tank along with my warning triangle I need for travel in Europe.

I don't use a USB adapter as I use an old Panasonic Toughbook with a serial port, but you do get a beep and the 35mph max as soon as it's connected (get the same when connecting to the EAS with Nanocom too). I would assume that the USB adapter being connected to the cable is putting a condition out that the EAS system sees and knows it's being interrogated.

It wouldn't with a connection, or rather lack of connection, like that, no power to the pump. I've not seen that personally but I have seen other people post similar pictures over on the other side. The pump draws a fair amount of current so if the connection is a bit iffy, there will be resistance there which will get hot. The hotter it gets the greater the resistance so will get even hotter still until you've got so much resistance that it can't pass sufficient current to run the pump. A bit of a bodge but even chopping the plugs off and using a big choc block would give a decent connection and sort it out.

One the rare occasions I've polished a car I've found that wax polish takes a lot of effort to polish off, it also leaves white marks if you get it on any of the black bits. Mer just wipes on and wipes off, the whole car can be done in under half an hour. It leaves the paintwork feeling smooth and shiny and rain beads up on it and just runs off. Can be used on the black bits too without leaving white marks. No idea if you can get it as a spray, I've only ever seen it in the distinctive blue bottles. There was some other stuff I used to use called Minute Cut (from the same people that did Minute Wax which I always thought was a contravention of the Trade Descriptions Act), that was like a chemical T Cut. Wipe it on, even if the car wasn't clean, wipe it off and it bought the colour back and left a nice shiny finish. I suspect it contained something that has now been outlawed as I haven't seen it in years.

Sounds like you may also have a sticky piston for one caliper to be locking on, how easily did they push in when you put the new pads in? Pedal going to the floor is not right, on a power system like we have the pedal is more pressure sensitive than movement sensitive. Bleeding as per the book would be the first place to start.

No pressure will give you a long pedal with virtually no feel and you need both feet on the pedal to stop the car. I would suspect bleeding will sort it. Then you just need to find out how air is getting in.

That would do the job the same as a Nano. Manually run the pump (assuming it runs) to build some pressure, clear the faults and send it to standard height.

Just read the first post again, if you've got a Nanocom you don't need a kicker. Just use the Nano to clear any faults. Even if the pump isn't running you can force it to run to fill the reservoir, clear the faults and it should come back to life.

Don't tell me the Nano isn't in the car?????

If the compressor isn't running, there's no pressure so a kicker won't do anything. It'll clear a soft or hard fault but if it isn't a software problem then you need to work out what the problem is. Check fuse 40 first as that feeds power to the pump. If you put a jumper in place of the relay (RL20, yellow relay next to the maxi fuses) and the pump runs then the ECU isn't telling it to turn on, most likely caused by the thermal switch has popped, or the relay has burnt out. Try swapping the relay with one of the others (windscreen heater is a good one to swap with as unlikely to be needed), that will rule out the relay. As said, shorting the orange and black wires will bypass the thermal switch if that is the problem. The ECU detects that the thermal switch is open and doesn't try to turn the pump on. Putting a jumper between those two wires will fool the ECU into thinking it is closed and cause it to start. If it doesn't run, then it is likely that the pump itself has burnt out although pretty rare. Ground the black wire and put power on the green and it should run

I assume by bypass you mean a wire link between orange and black wires to bypass the thermal switch? Gordon is in Glasgow (and David Hallworth too) so hopefully one or other will be able to help you.

So like spray on Mer then? That makes it go really shiny too and doesn't need the elbow grease that wax needs.

(proves how little I know about polishing cars.....)

Orangebean fitted a pair of the PowerfulUK ones to his car and followed me at last years summer camp. Bright white, not too blue and definitely bright but didn't cause me to have to dip my mirror. Admittedly he had spent a while setting them up properly but they did seem to be very good. Totally agree on some modern cars with the headlights mounted high up (although the Nissan Joke should have been aborted before birth anyway) but there's others that seem to be pretty bad too.

Which is why a camera will show the differences in the colour of light but you don't notice it yourself. Even daylight changes in colour between early morning and evening. A camera will show that but to you and I it is just light. But this does lead on to a question I have pondered many times, do we all see the same colours? I can look at something and say that it is red, another person will look at the same thing and agree that it is red. But is the colour that I see and call red the same colour that you see and call red?

Yes it is Richard, Richard Gilbert but known at work as Dick with an IT login of Gilbertd, so I use it in loads of places. For the first 5 years of ownership of my P38, I didn't have a Nanocom. For the EAS I used the earlier, free Version 2 of EASUnlock with a £20 cable from eBay and a generic code reader for engine codes. Those two allowed me to do most things but I couldn't read the ABS, HEVAC, BeCM settings or SRS and I couldn't reset the adaptives. I finally bought the Nanocom when the price was right (as the manufacturer is a Brit based in Cyprus they are priced in Euros so I just bought when the exchange rate was at it's best) to give me the ability to read the HEVAC and be able to reset the adaptive values.

You can do all of those with the RSW software, the only thing you can't do is see the live data from the engine. I have one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Launch-Creader-VI-6-OBD2-Engine-ECU-Fault-Code-Reader-Erase-Diagnostic-Tool/322349730545 which not only gives live data as a number but will also show you a pretty graph too. That one is from China but there is also this one currently on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Launch-Creader-Vi-Box-Opened-Car-Obd-Scanner-Tool-Obd2/163061259369 in UK, new but the box has been opened, big deal...... The other thing is it will work on any car not just the P38. It works on many cars from 1996 onwards (when OBD became mandatory in the US so anything that would have been exported or built there) and all petrol engined cars from 2000 and diesels from 2003 (when it became mandatory in the EU). It even supports JOBD, a weird version of onboard diagnostics used on Japanese cars (so anything imported directly from Japan) and I've used mine on numerous different cars once my neighbours realised I could tell them what was wrong with their cars without them having to take it to the dealers. With one of them and a RSW software, you should be able to do most of what a Nanocom can do. Not as easily but cheaper.

Although it seems that it also works on Tasmanian spec ones https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/327170-p38-high-idle.html and I would assume they are Oz spec and the same as UK. That's me asking the question in post 11, had to register a new name on there as they banned me under this one.......

Now you know why some of us would not drive anything else. Look after them and they will look after you, there is nothing better no matter whether you are cruising along a motorway or climbing the side of a mountain.

If you disconnect it, the open circuit will make it think that it is extremely cold but will also flag an error which may well make the car go into a fail safe mode so could affect the running anyway. That's why I said to put a 1k resistor in it's place as that will make it think there is something there. Putting another spare temperature sensor should work too, they are all pretty standard NTC sensors. Just a shame your RSW software doesn't show live readings, if it did you'd be able to see if the mixture is going rich or lean or if the ignition timing is altering when it starts to go all gutless. That would give us a clue as to what is happening.

How do I remember it all? I sometimes don't but know where to look to remind myself. It's one of those things that they say is down to how your brain is wired, I've got an analytical mind, I can work through a problem almost like a flow chart, if this is happening then it could be this or this but if it was that, this would also happen but it isn't and so on. You'd be amazed at the number of faults I've managed to work out in my head while driving along a motorway with nothing better to think about. Using my car to drive long distances around Europe means it's better to have read up on how something works first so when it doesn't you're halfway to solving the problem.