Deep 26mm should do the job nicely. As for the air locks, as the block has been completely drained down, it can be a real bitch to bleed all the air out. I take off the top hose and start by filling through the stub on the inlet manifold. Once that is full, fit the top hose and disconnect the bleed hose from the top of the radiator. Fill the expansion tank until coolant flows out of the bleed nipple on the radiator then fit the hose. Top up the expansion tank and give the top hose a squeeze, you should see a jet of water from the bleed hose just inside the expansion tank neck. Then start the final bleeding by squeezing the top hose, put your finger over the hole where the jet of coolant came out and release the hose. Keep doing that until no more air is coming out of the bleed hose or bubbling into the expansion tank from the return hose. If you give the top hose a few more quick squeezes, you'll be able to hear if there is any air still in there. If there is, run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the coolant and then give it another squeeze, plug, release session.

I don't have a problem with either Simon or Marty having their websites on their signatures. Although his username is a bit of a give-away, having a signature that shows he is a full time LPG installer adds credence to Simon's posts and shows he does know what he is taking about. The same goes for Marty, those of us that have been around for a while know that he rebuilds door latches, HEVAC units and can unlock your highly confused BeCM, but anyone new may not know that. So again, a link to his website just adds to the information this forum dishes out.

So I say, put the links back......

Hmm, I've just read through that thread and it seems that although the modulator part number changed from the Thor, all the ones that seemed to have the problem were early cars (95-97). I wonder if they changed the washers from plastic to metal partway through production rather than when the newer version was introduced? An internal change wouldn't have warranted a change of part number if they were externally identical and interchangeable. There seemed to be a lot of failures in Oz and George's washers broke when he took them out but hadn't beforehand so I'm wondering if it's a temperature related thing? I don't have a clicky pedal (a squeaky one sometimes but that is down to it being such a bitch to get any oil on the pivot) and if it was mileage related mine should have gone years ago. Has anyone taken one apart and found broken washers?

Idly looking at things under the bonnet, I noticed that the big hex key plug is right at the front of the modulator which made me think (which is always a bad thing). If the springy thing with the plastic bits that break up lives behind that, couldn't it be done with the unit still in the car? At least it would be bolted to something solid when giving it some grunt rather than having to chase it round the workbench. Also, do the plastic bits only exist on earlier cars or all of them and what is the result of them breaking?

If you can hear bubbles, there's air in there. Air will definitely cause it to pressurise too. There's pressurising and there's getting hard due to thermal expansion, the top hose will get harder, just not rock hard. Make sure you have no hoses higher than the reservoir so any air makes it's way back there.

The messy part of doing the headlining is getting the old orange foam off the shell. I wirebrushed mine out side at the front of the house and we put the lining on in the back garden. You don't want to be sticking the new stuff on anywhere near the orange dust.

It must be a P38 thing, one thing fails and when you put that right you find something else has failed. But you don't know if it's a separate fault or if what you didn't do the first one right and buggered something else up.

Road Taxed Vehicles see http://www.alrc.co.uk/Handbook/2015/regulations/Competition%20Rules%20&%20Regs%202015.pdf

As OB says, test if it is the starter or something more complicated first. Pull the small brown wire off the starter solenoid and connect a bit of wire to the terminal. Touch the other end to the positive of the battery. If the starter doesn't turn, the starter is the problem. If it does, then the problem is elsewhere.

Hadn't thought about that. We did mine outside and even then the fumes from the glue left us both a bit light headed. Doing 5 or 6 on the trot and there'd be no need for beer......

It's a new toy, get it fitted, the other bits are only cosmetic!!

Martrim do a kit at £60 http://www.martrim.co.uk/catalogue/landrover-headlining-kit.html which comes with 3 tins of glue and you do need all three. I only used 2 tins on mine and there are a couple of areas where it needed more. There's no plastic trees involved in the headlining, it's all held in place by the pillar trims and the sunvisors, interior lights, etc that are screwed the the roof through the headlining. Didn't break anything when taking mine out. Showed this thread to Dina and told her that headlinings were the main thing and her comment was ,"No problem, we are experts at that now".

I'm in France the previous weekend but would like to get up there. Even if only to swell the numbers of P38's......

I'll (we'll) be there too as long as the chosen date doesn't clash with anything. I actually did a bit more dragging stuff around in preparation last weekend. Bloody heating oil tank sprung a leak so I had a new one to install. New one is smaller but still weighed 140kgs although lifting it on an engine crane got it into position easily enough. Getting the old one out involved a trolley jack, two long lengths of timber, a 5 tonne breaking strain towing strop and a P38......

Lucky they had one on the shelf but not a bad price for a new one too. That's why I carry a spare starter in the boot when I go on my trips around Europe. Even if the rest of the car is perfect, with a dead starter you aren't going anywhere. You can't bump or tow start an auto and they stopped fitting starting handles years ago (not that I would fancy trying to start a V8 with a handle anyway!).

Bleeding the rears is very easy as they are only on the power circuit. You'll get nothing out of them using the conventional pumping the pedal method, all you do is open the bleed nipple, apply slight pressure to the pedal and turn the ignition on so the ABS pump runs. That'll blast the fluid through in no time.

If it looks like it's been leaking, then you might as well do it. But, if it all looks OK, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I understand the blend motors are the same on a Peugeot 406 too. No idea if the heater box bears any resemblance to ours but it makes sense when it was made by Valeo.

They are right, it's generic set that includes gaskets and O rings for all models, including the Classic engine which has a distributor and a different thermostat arrangement. So that explains a couple of the O rings and the metal gasket. The funny shaped gasket at the front, on the left, is for the throttle body heater and I've always assumed the other 2 gaskets are for the same but on a Thor. No idea what the big and small square sided O rings are for but they may come in handy one day for something. I believe Thor injector O rings are a different size to GEMS ones so that may be what the smaller ones are for.

Ferryman wrote:

Well I'm not too paranoia about it, the MCS (Maintenance Check Sheet) says refresh box every 2 years or 24K miles, the filter only after the first 24K miles.

Hmm, you're right, it does. Better change mine then. It has only been done once in the time I've owned it and that must be at least 80,000 miles ago........