Regulator diaphragm and injectors are the main things that wear out. Solenoids don't tend to wear although the plungers can get a bit sticky and the coils can go open circuit or crack allowing moisture to get in. Usual sign of worn injectors is that they clatter like a pair of castanets. Do you know what injectors are on it? Zavoli sometimes came with Matrix which last forever.
You definitely beat me. Just went to the paintshop to collect mine to find it being masked up ready to go in the paint booth so not ready to collect then. Blind panic set in as I'd planned on getting it all back together tonight and tomorrow. I'm out all day on Sunday, back at work Monday and Tuesday, at a conference Wednesday and Thursday and then have a trailer booked on Friday which I need to tow to France! It will be going in the booth first thing in the morning so will be ready to collect at midday as long as the weather forecast is right and it stays dry. As preparation is 90% of the job, they've done a good job on it though.
My SE is left with the battery disconnected. I lock it with the bonnet open, disconnect the negative lead and close the bonnet. When I want to start it for shunting around purposes, I unlock the drivers door with the key, open the bonnet, reconnect the battery (which causes the drivers door to lock again so don't leave the key in the car), unlock again so all doors unlock and I can then start it. Some have said that it's better to disconnect the battery while it's unlocked and if you do need to lock it, then do it manually with the sill buttons before locking the drivers door with the key. Whichever way you do it the car is locked and the battery won't go flat no matter how long you leave it (as long as it is a decent battery that doesn't go flat because it feels like it).
You mean there should be a little piece of rubber under the contact? I put one in mine as I though it didn't seem to have a lot of tension to make a good contact. I though the contact had just lost a bit of springiness and a bit of rubber would give it a helping hand......
We all need a spare, it just depends on which one you decide is the spare.....
From the switch the gas system is using a Stag controller so the rest of it could be anything. Stag were one of the first suppliers that produced a system aimed at the DIY market so can be set to use virtually any reducer and injector combination. Problem with that is that they became popular with the done in a day merchants who fitted the cheapest components they could find (thinking Valtek 30 injectors that are so cheap they almost come free with cornflakes and last about 30,000 miles on a good day).
I don't know so much. Now you've got Chris on the case, you should get yours before Friday. Then I'll be spending all day Saturday putting the trims, wheelarch liners, lights, door handles, etc back on.
Well done Ray, it just goes to show that a little fiddling can get everything working as it should. It may have caused you a lot of greif but you got there in the end.
If it wasn't for a couple of minor details like I don't have the P38 as it's in the paintshop and I'm still on this stupid shift system at work (although this is the last week) so can't take any time off, I'd have offered to do it. For me to go from home to Chelmsford, there to South Hams and back home again, Google maps tell me it's 620 miles so that would be 3 tanks of LPG. With a days trailer hire (a day being a full 24 hours so I'm sure I could manage that), I'd be looking at around £170 to do the lot. Just the timing is completely wrong.
Been told mine will be finished Friday which is a good job as I've got a run to France next Friday........
Amateurs..... You want to see some of the places I've managed to reverse a fully loaded trailer up to.
My mate in France has a 10W one attached to the battery on his boat which can get left for up to a couple of months in winter. He's never had any problems firing up the 5.2 litre V8.
It all depends what system is fitted, some can some can't. It'll depend on how seriously low the petrol tank is though. My SE took 3 gallons to get the light to go out, and almost two gallons just to get the gauge needle to even reach the empty mark.
OMVL is AEB based as is Zavoli, Romano, Emer, Bigas, King and some Landi and Landi Renzo systems. So if it's got one of these, it should be capable of starting on gas.
Still no news? Just been in to see mine and it's in grey primer.......
The Euro Car Parts discount code Blackfriday (valid until Monday) works but isn't as good as the one Paul has found. Just tried to order some oil for my car and the other half's Merc. Using the Blackfriday code, which claims to give 50% discount, didn't, it only gave 30% off. However, the OIL50 discount code did work and gave 50% off so if you want to buy some oil before tomorrow use that one.
As long as it doesn't get delivered between 1 and 3 today or OB will have a decision to make.......
Welcome along to the pub. Quite a number of us on here already own a Nanocom anyway but I must admit that there's often the odd query on exactly how to use it. I know I've been puzzled at times with what it is actually telling me, so your presence will no doubt be very useful. This forum actually came about after a couple of us fell foul of the admin on the other main site, so you're in good company......
I think you are going to win Mark. The weather has been so damp earlier in the week it's slowed them down having to get everything dried off before they can do any preparation or paintwork so it doesn't look like I'm going to be getting mine back before the middle of next week. This is what it looked like at 10:30 this morning.......
They probably assumed that once you've entered the EKA and it worked, you'll be so chuffed with your success you'll try to start it immediately. I don't think there's any time limit on entering the EKA, on the one occasion I've had to enter it on mine, it had been unlocked for ages, it was just immobilised.
Hmm, I should be getting mine back on Saturday, we'll be down to who can post a picture of their motor first.......
The engine disabled, press remote message will usually come on if you unlock the car, so turning off the immobiliser, but don't start the engine within 60 seconds when the passive immobilisation kicks in. I've got into the habit of pressing unlock before I try to start the car whether I've only just unlocked it or if it's been unlocked for ages so it starts immediately. If you turn off immobiliser with the Nanocom, then that re-immobilisation after 60 seconds no longer happens. Sounds like yours was already unlocked, either with the key or by entering the EKA, but you left it too long before trying to start it. Now you've turned that 'feature' off, it starts. In fact, I turned it off on mine before dropping it off at the paintshop so they can just get in it and start it no matter how long ago it was unlocked (as I doubt they will even lock it as it's going to be inside most of the time). I know the later ones are different to mine with the passive sync when you put the key in the ignition, on an earlier car it has to be done in the door lock, but I will admit I have never seen the light on my fob come on when the key is in the ignition, only when I press a button, not at any other time.