You've got nothing more than would be found anywhere else. The wireless ISP equipment will be on 2.4 and 5.8 GHz, usually 2.4 for the access points and 5.8 for the backhaul. Phone tower will be upwards of 926 and, depending on the operator, 1.8, 1.9 and 2.1 GHz so nowhere near 433. The only other thing is wireless alarms which, if they are older ones will be on 433 but newer ones are on 868, but even then, they will only transmit when the alarm needs to be triggered (although I have come across older 433 window sensors that transmit constantly when a spider takes up residence inside them). About the only thing you have even remotely close is your own Hytera base station on 453.

I've no idea what receiver is in mine, I've never had cause to look but I've only ever had a problem three times in the time I've owned it. Once in a country pub car park, once in the centre of town (both down to something being on that shouldn't be undoubtedly) and once at home when the battery started to die in my heating oil level sensor and it went onto permanent transmit.

My money would be on an intermittent problem with the fob. If you can get a key blade cut to use in the interim, I'd be inclined to send it for a full refurb to the place OB suggested.

Ah that's right. You went from LPGForum to there but very rapidly got steered this way.....

Actually RRTH has been remarkably civil for the last couple of days (maybe he's reading on here and found out what people won't or can't say to him directly) although if anyone fancies trying for a banning, maybe they would point out that he's given a civil answer that is completely wrong. Someone asked which coolant sensor is the one that the engine ECU takes it's reading from and he was told the green one. Completely wrong, the green one feeds the temperature gauge on the dash, the black ones tells the ECU what the coolant temperature is. How do I know? Easy, I broke a wire of the plug for the green one and my temperature gauge stopped working......

That would explain why very occasionally he posts helpful replies, other times he just tells people to search or use RAVE but much of the time he is downright rude, insulting, unhelpful, unwelcoming, arrogant or simply posts 'advice' that is blatantly incorrect.

and yes, I sincerely hope he is reading this. Maybe he will realise that he is hated worldwide and do the decent thing by resigning from his, allegedly voluntary, position as Admin (although if I was expected to spend most of my leisure time administering such a busy site as RR.net I would at least expect something from the commercial company that owns it).

No, RRTH would have deleted the thread and sent a PM saying that things for sale and wanted should be in the For Sale and Wanted section. I know, I once offered someone a spare ABS pressure switch I had and that is exactly what happened.

However, there would have been two pages of discussion on what exactly it was that was being asked for and being told you can buy something that will do the job in Home Depot.......

Is it these you are after?

If it is, then I've got them in different colours but if you want to see if you can get them locally (or on eBay or similar), the part number is MWC9134.

Do you mean the conical ones there the conical bit fits into the socket on he door and have a sort of cup on the other end that fits onto a sort of button looking thing on the door card? If these are the ones you mean, I've got red ones and blue ones if that is any help......

Or some of them may even be yellow, I'd need to have a look.

If I knew what it was, I might be inclined to agree with you......

Yes, the rolling code is stored which is why the handbook tells you not to take more than a minute to change the fob battery or it will lose sync. However, on a later car like yours, it should re-sync as soon as the key is put in the ignition although I'm not sure if that still applies if the car has been unlocked with the key rather than the fob.

The man is a complete twat and a walking definition of the word hypocrite. I once used the word 'ar*e' and got a warning for 'deliberately trying to get round the profanity filter' so I pointed out that a search of the forum showed that the word 'arse' had appeared in something like 300 posts and the American spelling 'ass' had been used over a 1000 times, including by him. That got me a weeks ban. He will regularly use 'Oh dear Lourde' (and has today in one thread) or 'bull plop'. If that isn't deliberately trying to get round the profanity filter I don't know what is.

If you Google his real name (Carl Christy) on one site he has listed rangerovers.net as his own website although another site does give his home address. What's the US equivalent of ordering 5 tonnes of horse manure or quick setting cement to be delivered to his house?

I would suspect that in the wilds of Yorkshire there's probably not a lot of RF about to cause the receiver to throw a wobbly, more likely a dodgy battery connection in the fob. One of the solder connections on the big ring contact does have a habit of cracking, so that might be the problem.

From the Nanocom documentation:
Adaptive air flow value (Kg/Hr): The Adaptive AirMass Flow Rate (AMFR) is learnt by
the system over a period of time and is added to the normal air rate to compensate for
manufacturing tolerances between airflow components. The extremes of tolerance that
GEMS allows for is + 5.5 KG/HR to -5.5 KG/HR. after which it will log a fault in its fault
code memory.

So if your existing MAF is giving slightly low readings the AMFR will have adjusted to compensate. Resetting the adaptive values will zero it so it will be re-learning from scratch but if it had gone one way and you don't reset the value, it will need to adjust to a corrected value which may be a touch the opposite way so take a bit longer.

What's bad about sweet Fanny Adams? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fanny_Adams

As I found out, criticise RRTH, Scotty or Leftlanetrucking and you will incur the wrath.

If you use Photobucket (which seems to be behaving itself these days), once you have uploaded the picture, click on it and on the right side of the page there are 4 different URLs so you can link to it. Use the second on down (marked Direct), click in that and it will copy the URL and then paste it into the little box that pops up when you click the insert image button.

Lets see if it works the same with flickr.....

Obviously not. I suspect it's because you have linked to an album rather than an individual image. However, I can't open the album if I try that either.

I suppose it's a bit like having a bad day at work, you go to the pub.

Only in this case, it's like going to the pub because you've been sacked at work.......

Considering you own the ONLY Linley in the US and an immaculate H&H, you are the sort of person that any RR forum would really want as a member. The work that you did on the restoration is superb and you are an asset to any site. But, you are a threat to the little club of experts who know everything. I got the feeling I pissed RRTH off more by correcting the crap that he posted than by using the odd word he didn't like.

Unbelievable. I got my lifetime ban for sending spam messages (inviting people to this forum) on a daily basis when I'd only sent one invite in 6 weeks (my story is here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/189-looks-like-rrtoadhall-doesn-t-like-competition). OK, so I'd had a couple of 1 week bans for profanity (as had Gordon), or at least making comments that were too subtle for the redneck American sense of Humour (or lack of). You are most welcome here and at this rate, the more people he bans the better. I registered another username on there so I can see what is going on and to avoid the adverts, posted once, which appeared after the required wait for the post to be approved, only to be removed a couple of hours later. I haven't seen you post anything even remotely objectionable so what was it that he didn't like? All we need do now is get Johnno42 over here, he's an Aussie who had a Classic and really knows his stuff but has just bought a P38 and is a bit out of his depth at the moment.

RRTH is a total arse (something you can say on here without fear of consequences).

Cats wouldn't have any effect as the lambda sensors are checking before the cats. Only US spec cars have post cat sensors to check that they are working. You can't simply swap an engine ECU as it is keyed to the BeCM, you will need at least a Nanocom to sync the two (I think but can't swear that a nano can do it even). Coil packs fire pairs of cylinders, one on each bank so if you had a coil pack going down, it would effect a cylinder on each bank. Looks like that just leaves the HT leads then.

It's blown over here now and completely still outside but it was pretty interesting earlier today. Had to go down to London and on the way back found two lorries having a quiet sleep on their side in the fast lane of the M11.

The only signs at home was that the cover had blown off my motorbike and was at the bottom of the garden but one of the guys at work was driving along and had a steel garage fly over his van!

Probably a bit late now but the hose from the reducer to the injectors, so including the filter, will have LPG vapour at around 1.5 bar absolute (so only around 7psi higher than atmospheric). As Tony says, a quick hiss as you release the pipe and that's it.

Have you got the storm in Holland too Tony?

A filter is a filter, part number doesn't matter. Pull a pipe off and see what size the end is. I get my stuff from here http://tinleytech.co.uk/product-category/lpg-parts/filtershut-off/lpg-vapour-filter/?widget_search=yes and their next day delivery is just that if you are cutting it fine on time.