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As said, I'll give a hand with headlining having done mine recently, Marty is the ball joint king though. If we set up an production line for headlinings, we could all go away feeling very happy without the need for alcohol. Not sure what's in that glue but there's a lot of hazchem symbols and warnings on the can.

I'd suggest keeping the cable and laptop in the car (although not connected as that can sometimes cause random errors) and just using it. All it may need is a bit of use as it looks like it hasn't had much for a while.

Be cautious, the errors that the RSW software show do not always mean what you think they mean. It often gives valve stuck open or valve stuck closed errors that are actually down to leaks. How does it behave normally? Does it stay at the correct height when parked overnight or does it drop either one corner or all around? Depending on the fault it sees it does different things to protect itself from damage. It might rise to maximum height, it might drop to the bumpstops or it might just stay where it is.

I can give the benefit of my experience with headlinings, especially now I know the areas that need lots and lots of glue.......

Welcome Mark, I'd say somewhere down south from the palm trees, maybe in Orangebean area (Devon)? Although I seem to recognise the registration number so maybe my area even. With your lack of mechanical knowledge and expertise but being a man who is capable of the cosmetics, you sound like another Morat! If it can be polished, it will be....

You're lucky you were able to clean the headlining, in most cases it's drooping around your head where the foam disintegrates. As Chris has said, nothing too serious there. Rear washers not working is usually when a non-return valve in the back goes non-return in both directions but it isn't that important so if any of the washer pumps have died (there's 3, front, rear and headlamps) you can swap them over so you at least have a working one for the screen. That just involves laying under the front of the car as they are behind the front bumper. Anti-roll bar drop links are a common MoT failure and cheap and easy enough to replace (although it's not uncommon to need an angle grinder or hacksaw to cut the old ones off) and an exhaust rubber just pushes on. You need to identify which blend motor is at fault, there's 3. One on each side that alters the temperature from the heater and one that controls where the air comes out. If you can get hot and cold air on both sides, it'll be the distribution motor. As for the HEVAC, Marty on here does refurbished ones on exchange.

Not quite sure I follow that. Where do you intend plumbing the reducer?

Steering column bearing probably means that you can move the steering wheel up and down slightly if you heave on it enough but not a particular worry, anti-roll bar does indeed have ball joints. Search for anti roll bar drop links, little rods that fit on each side and join the ends of the anti roll bars to the radius arms with a ball joint on each end and they do wear. Cheap and easy to fit (although an angle rinder is often needed to get the old ones off). Not sure what suspension arm ball joint is being talked about so can't comment. Might be worth asking them to point out which one. So you've got a bent wheel rim, it's a 15 year old car so quite likely someone has clipped a kerb at some time, that's just being picky and the little brake pipes at the rear do corrode. Slobber some grease on it and it won't get any worse.

Bellhousing bolts are 3/8UNC according to Microcat.

An accumulator that has lost it's Nitrogen usually means that the pump only runs for a very short time as there's no capacity left for it to fill. Running for ages would suggest the pump isn't pumping as well as it should but I hate to imagine how much a pump would cost you over there.....

It was sitting with a Buy It Now of £2,500 until it got it's first bid but that option has now disappeared. I would suspect if you turn up on his doorstep with folding in your pocket, you'll get it for that or maybe a bit less if you can find any haggling points.

Wobbling through the seat of the pants at around 60mph is almost always down to poorly balanced rear wheels. You might have a distorted wheel or tyre that is no longer round.

For a diseasel?????

They are hidden away so if you wanted to run them over the fuel tank and other bits like the originals, it probably would take that long. If you made up your own pipes so you can re-route them, then it won't take anything like as long.

Perhaps RRTH is trying a DoS attack.......

I got the odd one earlier but it seems OK now. Gordon was on a while ago so maybe he was working on it.

I've also noticed I'm getting a 404 error if I try to download RAVE from the link in the sticky in the Oily Bits forum.

EDITED to say I just got a 502 error when I tried to post this.....

I got the odd one earlier but it seems OK now. Gordon was on a while ago so maybe he was working on it.

I've also noticed I'm getting a 404 error if I try to download RAVE from the link in the sticky in the Oily Bits forum.

It had to happen sooner or later, but I've just deleted my first thread. The satisfaction is not complete though as I don't seem able to ban the poster, it would have been nice to do unto others so to speak. Anyway MadeleineCatly we don't have much use for waffle in Polish (at least Google Translate auto detect thought it was Polish but the translation didn't make a lot of sense) about Gout so sling yer hook. Shame, I thought maybe we'd got a P38 owning bit of crumpet joined, might have increased attendance at the next summer camp........

Martyuk wrote:

Back on topic ish..... how much was the 35000 mile HSE?

It's this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-0-HSE-35-493-miles-/112168474344

So how come your car is a 98 if it has an XA VIN? WA is late 97 to late 98 build date, 98 model year, which would normally be GEMS but I know yours is a bit of an oddball. XA would start in late 98 and be 99 model year. Although even if it was built earlier, I can't see the VIN being out of sequence. What is the actual date of registration?

If you are putting your VIN in, it will see the WA prefix and only show you the parts for a GEMS. If you don't put a VIN or registration number in, it shows them all. I know it's there as I've looked at it for someone else.