OB perfectly correct. On a modern multipoint it will be monitoring the gas pressure and if it drops below a certain point, it will assume no gas so will switch back to petrol. Usually with a beep (yes, yet another beep to join all the others a P38 can throw at you) to let you know. You shouldn't have to restart, it'll just carry on running. A very common problem with a system that is inadequate for the engine, or hasn't been set up properly, is switching back to petrol when you floor the throttle as it detects the drop in pressure and assumes you've run out.

The reason for it warming up on petrol is that it is slaved off the petrol system which needs more fuel when the engine is cold (it needs choke in other words). LPG doesn't need the extra fuel so the mixture would be very rich and it would run like a dog until warmed up. There is also a danger of freezing the reducer as the evaporation of the liquid into a vapour requires a lot of heat which may not be there on a cold start.

Thanks Chris, have you always suffered from premature congratulation or has it only happened as you've got older?

A problem free year is probably asking a bit much but hope everyone's problems are only minor ones.

Hi and welcome, I'll give you a bit more info which seems to have got confused over on the other side. I can't post on there as I got myself a lifetime ban for advertising this forum (and being critical of the attitude of the mods over there). If you get gearbox fault as soon as you turn the ignition on or start the car, but before selecting a gear, that is a voltage problem. Going into limp mode and either cutting out (especially when hot) or failing to start is quite likely a CPS problem. A gearbox going into limp mode and doing odd things, is likely to be a genuine gearbox fault. Have a read here http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/4hp22/4e-faq-s.html which describes your problems almost exactly. Ashcrofts will do you a recon gearbox or you can take a punt on a secondhand one. The gearbox on a 4.6 is the 4HP24 rather than the 4HP22 fitted to the 4.0 litre and diesel models. The 24 is also longer so you need a gearbox from another 4.6, preferably a later one the same as yours (not sure if there are any differences between gearboxes on the GEMS and Thor but better swap like for like in case there is). If you swap just the gearbox and retain your original transfer box, make sure you change the gearbox output shaft oil seal or you'll be taking the transfer box off again to change it (or dumping ATF all over the floor).

It certainly sounds very similar to when my diff nose bearing was shot. There was no play while trying to waggle it about but once it was out, turning the input shaft and it felt decidedly notchy.

I had a groaning that seemed to peak at around 65 mph and that was the nose bearing on the rear diff.

Dropping a prop off won't do any harm in the short term and will tell you which end it's coming from. Or you could do what I did and gaffer tape a mic to a diff, run the cable into the car and record the noise it made. Even a good one makes an evil noise when you go from on load to off.

Sorry Gordon, I forgot, anything south of the border with England doesn't exist in your mind. South west Scotland rather than what we would call the south west......

LRDirect often list 3 brands for most things, genuine Land Rover if money is no object, OEM or aftermarket (usually Britpart). Britpart are the cheap ones to avoid, OEM are made by the original supplier to Land Rover and are often from Bearmach or Allmakes which are the ones to go for.

No Tony, you are confusing Gordon with Orangebean (like I confused Vancer with Rayodunne and said Vance was Canadian). OB is down in the south west, Gordon is in Scotland.

From the new banner, I'm assuming Gordon has had some. But he is just to the north of Glasgow so gets a but more than Morat, a lot more than me and considerably more than Orangebean.

Merry Christmas everyone and may all your problems be minor ones (or ones that can wait until it's a bit warmer anyway).

In saying that though, if the engine has been so neglected it's suffered a pretty catastrophic failure, then replacing it is probably a better option. There's more 4.6 engines about than 4.0 litre so they are more common but a 4.0 litre will go straight in as it uses the same block. The only difference between the two engines is the crankshaft, conrods and pistons so you could make up a 4.6 from a 4.0 block using the innards from your 4.6 (if it is a block problem).

I've tested an engine, not a V8 but a 4 pot, and found compression on only one cylinder. That was because the cam belt had snapped so what valves weren't bent and not sealing weren't moving. Both valves were closed on one cylinder so that one had compression but none of the others did. I would suspect a cam chain failure personally.

Oooh, what is it they say? The worst insult you can give to a Canadian is to call him an American> You've just done that. He's not in the US but in Canada so he's half English and half French.......

Hmm, do you think they went to a soft top manufacturer and asked if they'd got something on the shelf that would fit a hole about this big?

Found one.......

Yup, an Evoque with a cloth roof. Can't find a decent picture online but the rear window is tiny and it looks really bottom heavy if you know what I mean. There's far too much bodywork below the waistline and a very low roof above.

No, it just won't connect if the firmware in the ECU and the software you are using don't match. No different to trying to use something like Bigas, OMVL, etc software with your Zavoli ECU, although they use the same AEB ECU, it just doesn't connect because of the differing firmware.

Not sure if anyone else has seen one yet, but saw one of these today

Possibly the strangest looking vehicle to have ever carried the Range Rover name. Admittedly, I've always though the Ejoke should really be the Land Rover Freelander Mk3 (or is it 4?) and not sully the Range Rover name but this thing is just plain weird. Looks even worse with the roof up.

You ever known one fall off? Seems pretty robust to me. Anyway, they knew the hoses would split and it would stop working within a couple of years so it didn't matter.

I was amazed at the difference it made. My mate bolted the compressor in with both top and bottom washers the wrong way round and you could hear the EAS compressor over the sound of the engine when driving along. Had a look at mine, swapped them over so they were the same and I had to put my hand on the compressor to see if it was running. You wouldn't think something so simple was so critical.

Looks like Tony has just caused someone on the other side to make his humming even worse. The EAS compressor washers have to go concave side DOWn at the bottom and concave side UP on the top so they only bear against the metal centre leaving the compressor to float on the rubber but with the rubber not in contact with anything.

These days I'd ignore any incorrect info on there (if they don't want me, then why should they have the benefit of my info?) but when it comes from someone on here, I felt it needed to be corrected.