I would suspect they put some cheapo 5W-30 in that all modern cars seem to want rather than what you thought they were putting in. A few years ago I picked up a Daimler Double Six from the south of France to bring it back here. I was told it had been fully serviced ready for the run so I should have no problems. Within 100 miles the oil pressure had dropped and was only showing 15 psi when running and no pressure at all at idle. When I had set off it was showing 25psi at idle and 50 psi when running so all was not well. i phone the guy I'd picked it up from and asked what oil had been put in, 5W-30 was the reply. I managed to find somewhere that had 20-50 on the shelf and did a partial oil change over a drain at the side of the road and the oil pressure went back up to what it should be. It wasn't until afterwards I realised what would have happened if I'd dropped the sump plug.......

You have a PM

I'm always wary of cars with very low mileages for their age. It means they have either spent a lot of time sitting around doing nothing but deteriorate or they've done lots of short trips so nothing every gets properly up to temperature so you get more wear. I haul cars around behind mine but the minimum is 110 miles at a time (the distance from home to Felixstowe to pick them up from the docks) and it always seems to take the first 20 miles or so before it settles down and feels happy. For some reason it wants to cruise 10mph faster once it's the other side of the Channel too and I've always put that down to it getting nice and hot.

I bought the headlining kit from Martrim and it ideally needs 3 people to do it so one can stand either side with a third rollering the material onto the headlining shell. The glue they supply sticks instantly so you have to get it right first time.

Been done already

Allegedly, I sent invites to people on a daily basis for a couple of months. Funny that, so how come we've only got 45 members?

Ferryman wrote:

Or must I look at it first digit unlock, second digit lock, third digit unlock and fourth digit lock direction and conclude with turning the key in unlock direction (no matter even or uneven)?

Yes, as an example my EKA is 5335, so it's lock x 4 to initialise it then unlock x 5, lock x 3, unlock x 3, lock x 5 then unlock to unlock the car. Then sync the keyfob (this process is stored in my phone for when I need it). Odd or even isn't relevant at all, just coincidence.

It may be all posh and shiny on the outside but it's still got a truck engine in it so will rattle and blow clouds of smoke.....

If I was a mod on the other site, I'd have to delete that and ban the member that posted it. But I'm not and I won't, it just caused me to laugh out loud! (sits back and waits for more smutty comments regarding posting free moving flaps.......).

Patience dear boy, patience......

Both here http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/landrover/ and here http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_obd2.asp say that P0175 means band B too rich if that's any help.

It is a rolling code so yes, if the buttons have been poked many times it will lose sync. The procedure for the earlier cars is to put the key in the door lock, turn to lock, hold it there and press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED flashes quickly. Then do the same for unlock. However, I think on the later ones, the sync in the ignition does the same job. If it now locks and unlocks on the fob, it does.

Orangebean wrote:

Well, it so happens that I'm looking hard for the right P38 at the moment...

I take it the second chance offer didn't happen then?

I read that blue box seals don't seal from day 1 so if that is all that has leaked out in a few months you've done well. Definitely looks like oil rather than ATF.

If I put my P38 in the garage, it's so narrow that I can't actually open the doors to get out of it, so working on it has to be done on the driveway. Where I live is very quiet as the road doesn't go anywhere but that didn't stop an old battery and a Volvo gearbox that I'd left outside disappearing one day. I do the same as you, put the bits I've taken off in the boot and need to be able to at least lock it overnight. With the battery left connected that isn't a problem at all.

I've seen Shep's P38 and it is as near immaculate as you are going to get anyway. It needs the thermal cutout replacing in the EAS compressor (currently bridged with a bit of wire) other than that I doubt you will find a nicer one anywhere. You could always buy the L322 but keep the P38 for when it breaks down.......

That's what I like to see, a lump of hose over the cable to the alternator so there's no need to disconnect the battery. Is it oil or ATF in the bellhousing? Oil would come from the rear seal on the engine rather than the gearbox.

I'd start by just doing the upstream ones as the downstream sensors are only to confirm the cats are working (which if they aren't there they won't be) so you may still get errors from them anyway. Faults all relate to the heater circuit rather than the sensors themselves so it may be that the generic ones have heaters with a different resistance that is causing the errors. As Morat says, did you reset the adaptive values after doing the work? What errors were you getting before, same ones or different? How does it drive now?

Looks like yours might be different to mine. I've got 4 self tappers slightly higher up and looking through the hole where the light goes, I can't see the fixing points you've marked. From memory when I last had it off (no idea when or why), once the self tappers were out I think it just fell off. I know the top section is only held on with self tappers from when I was getting to the rear washer tube.

and they are the same ones on a Peugeot 406. Should be plenty of them in your local scrappy.

Microcat shows self tappers too.

If you mean the one that goes along the full width of the bottom of the upper tailgate, mines held on with 4 self tappers????