Having got home a couple of hours ago from a trip that started at 4pm yesterday and during which the outside temperature varied between 18 degrees and -1, my heater kept the car at the required 20 degrees all the time. The air temperature from the face vents was the same as that from the footwell vents. I could open a window and let the warm air out, the output from the heater would get hotter to get it back up to temperature but no matter what I did (it helps to have something to play with on a drive like that), I couldn't manage to get air at a different temperature from the face and footwell vents. The heater box may be simple but you must have something wrong.

I understood that the longer inlet tract on the Thor compared with the GEMS trumpets gave more bottom end grunt. The tuners are usually dealing with engines fitted into TVRs and the like so don't want more grunt, they want more top end so shorten the trumpets. If an extra 1cm does have an effect, it will be to increase bottom end power, just what you want in a P38.

I used to use black tape but it would come off when the car was pressure washed and the edges of the tape would damage the headlamp wiper blades. The same would happen with those stick on beam benders that alter the beam pattern. With most of my long journeys being on the wrong side of the road, it didn't really matter if I had a flat cut off which is why I decided to paint the masks on the lights, looks like I need to find better paint though. I've also owned a few cars with either Marchal or Cibie lights where you could alter the dip pattern by rotating the bulb in the holder, a great idea but nobody seems to do it these days other than some very expensive luxury cars with HID lights where you can alter the dip pattern from the onboard computer.

Boge.......

If I remember right, Gordon's is badged as a Vogue SE too although a GEMS. Survival rate does seem pretty good but you know what they say. 75% of all Land Rovers ever made are still on the road (but the rest managed to get home again....).

If I remember right, Gordon's is badged as a Vogue SE too although a GEMS.

I got here this morning and only one person flashed me on the way down so it can't be that bad. It isn't tape either, I masked the area and sprayed it with the bumper paint before going to Latvia but the headlamp wiper covers more of it on that side and has worn it off

You've definitely got something wrong Nick. I've just driven down to Dover, outside temperature reported as 15 degrees and the HEVAC set on 21, Auto. Once the interior was up to temperature the flow and temperature from the face vents dropped to about ambient and the footwell vents dropped to the same.

OK, tea break over, back on yer 'ead. All back in one piece, even with new badges and after having a bit of a rest (other than 480 miles last Sunday with only half the trim back on) it's back to work for the newly resprayed ex-Plod. 1969 Triumph Bonneville and a 1976 Triumph TR6 on an Ifor Williams CT177 tilting trailer that will be in the South of France by breakfast time tomorrow.

How are you getting on with yours Mark?

Although I can't see what (but will admit I've never been inside a heater box) but you've obviously got something wrong. I leave mine on 20 degrees and Auto and it just works. The only slightly odd thing I have on mine is that if both sides are set at 20 degrees, the drivers side cools off sooner than the passenger side, If I leave the passenger side at 20 and put the drivers at 21, the air from the vents is the same temperature from both.

No, you'll need the earlier one, I've just emailed it to you along with the installation manual and software guide.

That's a Zeta N, a lower pressure version of the one OB has. As long as the injector jets are the correct size, then not a problem. It should switch back when the pressure drops so that would point towards a dodgy pressure sensor.

It should come out of the main LPG loom. 4 wires that SHOULD have an 8 way Molex connector with only 4 ways used the same as your Leonardo. No idea why someone would chop the plug off though.

Just been out in mine and probably not a fair test as it's a whole 1 degree outside so I need the heater. However, I know that in warmer weather, once mine has the car interior up to a comfortable temperature, the air from the face vents cools off but I've never bothered to check to see what is coming out of the footwell vents. This evening, it started off blowing lots of hot air out of both face and footwell vents. Once the interior of the car was at a reasonable temperature, the face vent output went down to very little but still lots of nice warm air at the footwell to keep the interior warm and my feet nice and toasty. I would assume once the interior temperature was up then the air to the feet would cool down too (but it's unlikely to do that at the moment).

I don't have rear underseat vents as Mr plod didn't need heat in the back so the output for these vents are blanked off. Didn't realise this at first but it does explain why I wondered what the problem was with getting access to the blend motors and O rings as I don't have the duct that gets in the way.

Original Zavoli Alesei rather than the later Alesei N, Zavoli Zeta S reducer (the higher output one so that's good) and the ridiculously expensive but extremely good, Zavoli badged Matrix XJ544 injectors. A very good system that shouldn't give any trouble and even if it does everything is rebuildable.

While you're in there, sort out the plumbing for the LPG reducer and put it in series with the heater. Apart from the slow warm up and/or feeble output from the heater at idle on a cold day, you'll get rid of two places for air locks to sit (shouldn't the hoses into the heater be straight rather than curved up like that?). Never having pulled a Thor apart, I can't tell you if the studs are original or not but they do look a little long. I can't see land Rover wasting that amount of metal.......

You sure it's leaking from the HG and not the rocker cover? HG doesn't have any appreciable oilways running through it. No doubt someone a little more dexterous will tell you how to get to the ignition coils, probably requires fingers like ET with the grip of Mole grips......

I remember reading somewhere when I first got involved in wasted spark systems that the extra spark isn't so great as it isn't doing anything. On one of the very old Crypton analysers with a CRT, you could see the difference in strength between the spark that was firing and the one that wasn't. I'd suggest leads as well, I've run these http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ignition-lead-4046-9498-intermotor-bra2001-p-3971.html (but for a Thor you'd need http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ignition-lead-4046-9802-intermotor-hls103-bra2002-p-3972.html) and the only time I've had a problem has been when I had a hose split and they got doused in coolant. Even after they'd dried out it looked like Blackpool illuminations under the bonnet in the dark.

That's what I was thinking. As far as I can work out, the temperature blend motors adjust the airflow through or around the matrix so that sets the air temperature and the distribution blend motor directs where it comes out. I've always assumed that the air will be the same temperature no matter where it is coming out from. If, as on mine, your feet were getting cold, then that is when the duct joints leak so air escapes onto your feet before it even gets as far as the heater box but not hot air on your feet and not on your face. Sure it isn't your gout playing up?

If you can cope with the curved balls that boats throw at you, anything a P38 tries is child's play.